I have built this channel to be simple, not to complicated actually just good friends and truck, but also we want to be able to show our journey of basic ownership and fixing problems as they pop up. The idea is simple really, we are nothing special but we still want to do our best to repair and customize our truck as we want to and we want to show you guys how we do it along the way.
No, I took the hose off of the valve cover that would run to the turbo and put a draft tube on it, a piece of 3/4 oil safe hose that runs down just below the oil pan to atmosphere, you also have to make sure you cap or plug the intake tube when you do it.
I’m getting my truck painted professionally so was looking to get this mod done first so I can have my tailgate handle color matched along with my door handles. The shops concern is the textured finish. What did you do for prep for paint or process of painting? Also what brand back up camera did you use? With a hitch can you see well enough to line up a trailer? That’s the only reason I’m gonna go through the headache to install one
The texture is no big deal, you want to take the shine off with scotch bright then use high build primer, spray and sand, do that over and over until your happy then paint. It’s a summarized version but works really well.
sure hope you vented that to atmosphere or put in a catch can. leaving that vent hose attached to the turbo with no filter is absolutely fucking dumb and asking for that turbo to go
The prices are a bit painful... but the filters certainly look nice. Glad more companies are manufacturing these kinds of filters. If you keep your cars for a while these kinds of filters are definitely worth investing in. 🙂
Fitting a bypass filter is often a bit challenging for a lot of people. It would be nice if someone offered a fitting service. That would make these filters a bit more popular. 🙂
Trasko has a spin on filter that uses the same filter media as the bypass filters... and filters to exactly the same size: Tested with microscopy and oil analysis. :-)
That element looks the same as the one in my Australian Jackmaster Classic. The Jackmaster is a high quality roll of toilet paper in a sock. I have been using Great value 1000 from Walmart in mine.
There are several 1 micron filters now. In the 60s all we had was Frantz and Motor Guard. Multi grade oils were crap. Delo 30W and 20W were about the best oils you could buy. I dont plan on paying up to 50 bucks for something as good as toilet paper at cleaning oil.
So correct me if I'm wrong here but don't you now have 6 useless cup holders. How do you shift if you got a drink in any of the new top cup holders? Looks like they will all be in the way of your arm depending on the gear. Surprised nobody mentioned it.
Look how damn far those things stick out? lol watch out for those two giant obstacles sticking out the sides of your truck 😂. The factory tow mirrors are only 17” these are like 19” folded. Lol
F350 6.4 and been running for 10 months and oil is still clear but starting to show a little bit darker. I also added the oil filter cooler and oil is a lot cooler generally cooler than the coolant temp. Also coolant temp dropped by 2 degrees. Guess since the coolant is no longer really cooling the oil much.
Did you ever swap your short shift out for the factory one and do some driving with the factory shifter on the clutchmasters? If so did it seem make a difference for you or did you prefer one or the other
@@Cargill450 yeah I’m currently torn between doing another one of the fx1200 organic clutches but driving a little smart or doing the ceramic fx1200. My power levels technically should have a ceramic but the organic held pretty well until I did stupid things while driving with it. Like not downshifting when I should to pull with someone on the highway and heat soaked the clutch really bad. I’m running the b&m short throw shifter and absolutely love it. It takes a couple thousand miles to break it in so it’s not so stiff but once you get it worn in it’s a dream shifting
@TheWheeler2299 they are tough clutches that’s for sure but just be ready for the thing to be a light switch on engagement. I really want to do the B&M tower one of these days, I have heard nothing but good about them.
As far as the arrows you have duration and sensitivity, it’s a lot of preference really but it all depends on what you like and a little bit of how quick the boost comes on
@@Cargill450 ok now I’m wondering if I should of done all 3 I only did 2, I have a fuel filter housing delete kit coming in. I’m going to do that and see if it fixes my problem if not I may go back and put the 3rd one in.
@@Cargill450 so I have an 07 lbz that gave me the p0087 low fuel rail pressure. I’ve added a lift pump and it still has some trouble keeping up. Usually when I start in lower gears and get on it it’s fine but not always. It happens when I’m in higher gears and need to get on it to pass someone the actual isnt keeping up with the desired pressure. So I shimmed it only using 2, I’m watched another vid prior to doing it and I’m not sure if it was true or not but he said 2 will stiffen it up so it doesn’t open as easily and 3 will pretty much keep it closed. I don’t if there is any truth in that or not.
Its probably a roll of toilet paper in a sock. I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart in mine. Been using toilet paper since 1963 starting with a Frantz oil cleaner. I went with the top loaders in the 80s.
@@ralphwood8818 We've done over 4 million km on filters that use toilet paper as the filter medium. The tightly rolled TP works best or two ply... but we've never had a problem even with a normal toilet roll. N.B. AKT told us they used Sorbent two ply specially rolled tightly for them. 🙂
So let me start by saying the idea is solid and maybe there are a few things we could have done different but after running the truck for about a week to see how it acted compared to the cts he had in the truck we ditched the clipsense and got all the correct fittings to put the sensor in the line like it should be done in the first place. cool idea if it would have worked but at the end of the day the best reading will always be in the line.
@@Cargill450 thanks for the reply. I am installing the same gauges and wanted to avoid cutting into the transmission line but the clipsense almost seemed “too easy to be true”😂 otherwise clean install I like your videos!
@jimtie9007 I really wish it would have worked good and maybe you could insulate it better then we did and have it work better but when you started down the road the wind would cool the sensor
So the system that filters the oil to 2 microns returns the oil in a black color condition? The black is bypassed fuel that dirty the oil. It should be coming out looking new or near new. Something ain't right. Total head scratcher
@roberttilaro3462 the best way is to find wiring diagrams but what year is your truck, I can double check my wire colors and let you know what I taped into
I m running amsoil by pass filter kit BP 100 oem ram full flow filter and I'm changing them every 6 months my oil change every 12 months let's face it oil is stupid expensive knowing how often it gets bought it should be cheaper than anything. But here we are paying twice the price for every single thing for some reason. Any way yeah I'm pushing 862,005 miles on my 2018 ram I have replaced nothing on this engine but the oil. Every thing is original granit I put it on the truck at 15 thousand miles my first oil change I have no blow by I add nothing but 100% 5:40 full synthetic amsoil love it.
I normally dont drain oil. I probably change the filter and add more new make up oil than most. My Australian Jackmaster Classic is similar but is a little drab with a green color. I expect the oil in my gasoline engines to always stay clear. The diesel tractor oil will get black because some diesel soot is a lot smaller than 1 micron.
@@natealvarez16 I think it depends on the engine and your wear profile i.e. I change my oil at the normal intervals because my additive package has been depleted: TBN (Total Base Number) and viscosity are out of spec. You'll never pick up on this kind of stuff if you aren't doing oil analysis. The improved filtration reduces wear... so that's where the real win is. 🙂 P.S. I could run the oil much longer if I wanted to as wear has never been an issue due to bonding a lubricant to the metal (which reduces wear further).
I'm getting a CEL after changing the hot side boost tube on my 4th gen. I'm getting codes P1193 and P2228. Based on my research I may have issues with my IAT/MAP SENSOR. P1193 is IAT sensor is high while P2228 is barometric pressure sensor A circuit is low. My boost guage reads 5 psi at idle and even when the engine is off. I'm starting with fixing the IAT connector since it has a broken tab. After that I'm looking at cleaning or replacing the IAT sensor. I just called Lithia and they said the IAT sensor is a TMAP sensor where T probably stands for temperature. It's not the same as the MAP sensor you replaced in the video that goes on the intake horn. It is located on the cold air intake that feeds the turbo. There is also a MAF sensor on the cold air intake. Any suggestions? Thanks
If I’m not mistaken the map sensor is where the truck is going to get its boost reading, I would look at that sensor but it’s a little odd that it didn’t mess with you until you changed the tubes
@@Cargill450 so it was the IAT sensor. When I changed the connector, everything was fixed. No more CEL and the boost guage reads zero at idle. I got the pigtail from OEM connectors on Ebay for 16 bucks and it was excellent quality. The dealer wanted over 200 for the exact same part!
@@Cargill450 maybe you could give me some insight (pun intended) Got an issue- been running a raceme eco tune for about 7 months now with no issues. Defaults timing default trans settings. I just got my edge cts3 insight these last couple days. Set up the monitor yesterday and had my first drive with the truck to work today. When getting onto the highway Truck seemed to be completely gutless and would not up shift past fourth if I wasn’t going faster than maybe 50mph, rpm would sit around 2500 rpm. Any ideas if the monitor is interfering with the tune or maybe something else? I have a 400 mile road trip Saturday and need this truck asap
Thanks for explaining that. I've had my cts3 for about 4 years and never knew setting warnings and alerts was so easy. Much appreciated. Kind regards from Australia.
