I got mine three days ago all black and it my friend blew my socks off it’s the fastest thing I’ve ever ever rode it’s so fast I can’t hardly hang on 😊
Should work fine. Find out what size bolt. If it’s an m5, use a drill size m6 to smooth it out and then use an m7 threader to thread it. Or what ever. Essentially just smooth it out then thread one 1.5-2 size up since drilling it out will set the hole bigger. Also make sure to use a copper washer.
It's better to have a key so people know it's yours. When I go out I just have 1 key for the house and 1 key for the bike with 1 small hex/screw driver on the keychain just incase I have to get to something under the fairing.
I know this is a old vid but I’ve got my eye on a 02 R1 with 11k miles on it super fuckin clean and the guy is wanting to trade for my supermoto have you had any issues with it?
Mine got hit by a car but these motors are workhorses! My buddy had this gen r1, still does, over 120k miles. Still fast and only had to change 2 stators and one water pump. If it’s clean and in good running shape it’ll last!
Good idea, at the time I was buying on a budget so most of my $ was in helmet, jacket, gloves and shoes. Pants were of intermediate importance to me because I honestly didn’t think about my legs being something that would get hurt (I know stupid). But honestly I think in order of importance pants come in last since head 1, then hands feet and elbows and torso all are very likely to be impacted first come in second. Just my 2 cents (for those who are looking to acquire quality protection over time)
Same boat with my FZ1 but Yamaha manual says 43Nm!! Unlike the poster I am going to use a helicoil with thread lock to secure the helicoil so I can use standard size sump bolts. The other thing I don’t like here is tapping only 1mm bigger. If I was going down the route of the poster I would’ve tapped to M16 to make sure the new thread is cut well clear of the old thread.
@@ek999 I have sold my bike but I remember I had the mechanic tap 1mm bigger thread ( didnt want to risk it myself and as you said depends on the condition of current threads and mine wasnt that bad, it was only leaking when engine was very hot a few drops ) and it was fine.Now that I am thinking about it , honda manual says to replace the washer everytime you change oil so that affects the torque needed to tigthen the bolt.Also always make sure there is no oil when you tigthen the bolt , threads should be clean .After the mechanic fixed it I always used a bit of brake cleaner and a cloth to make sure it was clean . Not sure if helicoil will work for this as the engine gets very hot and eventually threadlocker will fail and also the torque you need is high, the mechanic rejected the helicoil as non permanent solution.You dont really want to risk leaking oil or completely failing, if it goes on your tires bad things may happen or you can damage the engine if you dont notice while riding.
@@chriscs9080 yes I have thought about this, my helicoils are arriving today and I’ve got the sump pan off the bike rather than doing the fix on the bike so will evaluate the repair when I’ve done it and before the pan goes back on the bike. Lucky for me I’ve found that Fowlers can still get the new sump pans from Japan for the FZ1 so in a worst case scenario I’ll have to splash out £115 for a new pan but at the moment money is tight. I did a helicoil repair on a Honda NSR about 6 years ago which has held out and still is holding out but the drain bolt for them is much smaller and longer so was a different beast. Agree about the new crush washer, with my car and now my FZ1, I always buy a new bolt and washer each time I drop the oil. When the pan is back on I’ll do quite a few heat cycles and leave it running for 30 minutes to be sure. Still sat here questioning the manual’s torque values though haha
How I tell riders. RoadSmart 3's (4's now) Novice group Trackdays, Q3+ Intermediate Group, Q4's Advance Group, Slicks if you race and chase times. This is the best value and time frame step up I've found.
excellent video I just have one question, does it work for a 2003 yamaha YZF R6?. I see that on the page if there is one for that year, it only indicates that it is for R1? Cheers
Thanks! And hmmm I’m not sure but tbh it’s just wiring bypass. So even if the clips don’t fit if you just splice the wires that they were supposed to clip into, it should theoretically work
When I go to buy from xtreme diesel dp I get two of each? 2 dummy plugs and 2 standpipes? Are both side the same passenger and driver side. I have a 05 f250 6.0 Powerstroke.
Yup each head has one standpipe in the back and then the front on each oil rail is the dummy plug (dummy) because it’s fake doesn’t go all the way down.
I'm buying a salvaged r6, ignition is broken out, in lock position. Removing top triple clamp, instead of spending on new ignition, this may be a less expensive way to get her running again.
Glad to hear nothing significant form the spill. Though you said there is some work to do on your lines, etc, seems like you acclimated to a new bike pretty quickly. Looks like a strong, fun season ahead Bud!!
So the old style 10mm standpipe BOTTOM (that you couldn't get out so you left in), connects properly with the new style 12mm standpipe TOP? Did you have any issues with this later?
@@ironj03 Well makes me feel better. My 10mm standpipe bottom stayed in, and I placed the 12mm standpipe top on it. Probably need an injector or two, but didn't want to remove oil rail until I replace the injectors. When I do, I'll go ahead and replace the old standpipe bottom then. Thanks for replying!
Just bought these 3 weeks ago. Yes very stiff. But they break in quickly. Much more comfortable afterca fewcweeksxand should get better over the next month.
was deciding on s22 or q3+ for road tyres with the occasional track day, opted for the q3+ as i think theyre a more track focused tyre and if its wet i dont push the bike hard at all
Never ridden s22 but I always see friends with them and they wear very fast! I took these up to top of intermediate pace and I know many people who use them advanced pace on the track. I love them for the road and overal great tire! And more life in my opinion than an s22. Plus they give good feedback
Yes. Depends on the bike though. Some places want to replace the whole oil pan and in that case it could get expensive. For a simple tap and replace though it shouldn’t be more than 50$