The normal perspective on DIY seems to be hire someone to do the job. Well, I am not normal, if I am making a work bench I start with cutting down the tree. Need to gravel the drive. Time to make a trommel screen. All the while spending as little as possible. The Building Spot - B-spot - Building Machines and projects with them.
I would not have riveted them. I would have made a jig to hold the pieces and welded it all. The internal baffles you leave holes in the tank skin to weld to the baffle. Might have needed a couple alignment pins welded to the baffles that go through similar holes. Could have done the whole thing with no rivets and no leaks. Probably other ways to do it too. But thanks for an interesting build!
Very creative, efficient, simple and economical. Take a bow , atta boy ! Those barrels are easily adaptable to many Hair-Brained Schemes . I am using a barrel with hardware cloth to make a compost sifter.
Thanks for the videos! Learning a lot. I finished a RV8A and now working on a Fiesler Storch replica from the Pazamany plans. All the tail feathers and wings done and starting on the fuselage. Those 3d printed adjustable tubing clamps look GREAT! Is there any way I might purchase the file so I can have some printed? Thanks so much, Mark
PLA, I don't remember how many layers but I guess I used 5-6 on the walls, top, and bottom with 25% infill. I did manhandle and break one or two but it seemed good enough.
There are a lot of tanks made this way flying without issue, so I would conclude that you arm chair engineering determining there will be issues is proven wrong by the data. I looked for your fuel tank video showing the proper way to design a tank and could not find it.
I agree here is what I need you to do. Optimize the process - produce a cut list and write a SOP then publish it. Next hold training sessions on the correct procedure. Then finally, time you assembly time vs mine, that you don't know, graph it and report back. Oh and send me the video and i will post it.
I am about to start my BH5 and love the pipe adjustable braces, any chance you can share the 3D file to print a set? Great Job BTW, I've been learning a lot from watching.
Ah this is so inspiring! I have the plans for the 4 place, and I'm tempted to buy a quick build, but this looks so fun. I'm currently buying an Avid Flyer MKIV right now that I'm doing some welding on. This will be a good warm up to building a Bearhawk. Thank you for sharing!
I am now trying to make my steel ribs just as you did. but I see you didn't bend the narrow flange in along the edge of the ribs as the plans show. (as a last step) Did you try that ? do you see a way to do it without ending up with a mess ? Love your videos----- Tim B. Greeneville TN.
The plans I have show the little bend you refer to on page 23B call out C-C, But on page 24B call out A-A and B-B for the stabilizer and elevator do not have that detail. Drawing 23B is from 1995 and 24 is from 2009. I think the page 23 call out is a leftover from when the stabilizer was flat. It would be difficult to add that bend on the curved rib and I would guess its original purpose was to prevent the fabric from rubbing on a sharp edge. My plan is to make sure the edge is smooth and use fabric tape as necessary when covering.
I don't remember the cost savings but I have answered the question somewhere in the comments before. I did save over manufactured trusses. Your savings will depend on your cost for lumber vs current i joist price.
They are just some adjustable snap on clamps I 3D printed. I covered them a little more in the previous video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VEq0SRzPF0U.html starting around 2 min 30 sec.
i had the same problem with the fly cutters. I found that the bit in the center is all way not centered. I took the bit out and cut a brass pin on the lather ---1/4 inch on one end and oversize on the other end. Then you mount the small end into the end of the fly cutter. Then you grab the shank of the fly cutter in the lathe-- and cut the pin down gradually to 1/4 inch. That way the pin is concentric with the cutter shank. if you use the fly cutter as-is---- it wont cut a round hole because it s wiggling. also I use the brass pin because I dont want a bit to be cutting my central hole any larger. I also run the mill as slow as the mill will turn it. and feed the cutter VERY slowly. so far that has worked well. Cant find a good quality fly cutter.
Master metal fabrication skills for sure...You make an Overwhelmingly complex fabrication project look almost manageable by a regular dude....Thx for taking time to show All this at the Perfect presentation speed....
Uhh, I binge watched all your video,s up to this point. Excellent work! Building airplanes is a huge project and can be frustrating in that you get to 80% done and ,in reality, you still have 80% more to go!!! Pretty soon you can sit in it and make airplane sounds!!
They are just some adjustable snap on clamps I 3D printed. I covered them a little more in the previous video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VEq0SRzPF0U.html starting around 2 min 30 sec. Not sure what additional info would be helpful ?
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Do you have any specs you can share, like… - length, depth of trusses? - what angle you cut the webs? - what screws you used? - anything you’d maybe do differently if you were to build them again? Appreciate it! Chad
Length 26' Depth 22" Web Angle 45 deg Screws are 3.25 construction screws Nails are 2-3/8 galvanized ring shank Plywood webs are 1/2 exterior sheathing In later versions I used construction adhesive for the glue.
Nice work. I have wanted to build the 4 place for a few years and I am convincing myself to jump in. I am jealous of your shop set up, in particular your nice mill. Keep up the good work.
Put it in a tank with water the rocks and metal will sink to the bottom and remove them with a screw. - or - Use an air density separator. Basically blow the lighter material away with an air stream.
Did you buy the 4130 tubing from a local supplier or from someone like aircraft spruce? I’m planning to start my build this year. Great videos and very helpful!
I bought all but one tube size from Airparts in KS. The tubing prices were good but the shipping was stupid expensive so I drove 900 miles to pick it up.
B-Spot----- can you tell me where to find plans for your metal brake ? It looks pretty heavy duty and rigid--- better than other DIY ones i have seen !
I designed and made it, it's heavy but I wouldn't recommend it. Even with 4 x 4 angle and a truss supporting them I still have to jerry-rig it every time that I bend anything long or thick. This is because the center wants to flex. If your going to build a brake I would recommend a continuous hinge.
I'm all about this technique on used or leftover wood the glue is costly though the screws add up The cost in time is substantial is it cheaper I don't think so used lumber yes with pulled nails then it's your time.
An experienced welder could weld it without riveting first. For me by fabricating and riveting first then welding it separates the two process making it easier two keep all the parts in the correct positions during welding.
