Like that plumbing, got one here just about like it on a 406 i just built,capable of flowing 1200hp done by fulton...should be pulling the trigger in March Fingers crossed 🤞
It should be an automatic process to remove the oil filter before you put the sump plug back in. If it's a top mounted filter there will always be drainback into the sump, if it's crankcase mounted then the oil drainback will be less than a top mounted filter but you will still have dirty oil feeding into your sump once the airlock/vacuum is gone from removing the filter. With your process you might aswell leave the sump plug in place and just use a manual marine engine oil vacuum pump, you'll save time and still leave the same or less old oil you alrwady do in the sump using your process. Sump plug back on last!! Simple dude 🤦🏻♂️
Hey, guess what? The filter wasn't top mounted was it?! Also, I guess you missed the edit part where I let it sit for 20 minutes to drain! Plenty of time for the pickup tube to drain, hence the slight drip out of the drain plug! I stated to let it go until a slight drip! Let's say your idea of the pickup tube staying full of oil happens (which it doesn't of course), how much oil do you think it holds? Are you one of those people who think a tenth of a quart spilled on the ground is a gallon? Seems to be! Do a test the next time you pull a pickup tube off of an engine (if you do that type of work at all), plug one side of the pickup and fill and drain it until the quart is gone. It holds maybe 1/20th of a quart! Nothing in the grand scheme of things, not even close! What else do you have oh' keyboard warrior of immense techness? Seriously....Dude!
Hi! 1st I thank you for this video! I watched it twice because I need to replace the air filter in my 2016 Fiat 500x. Can you tell me exactly what tool you used to remove the screws? They seem to be so tight & I don't have a tool to remove them. Ty so much!
Is there a way to deep clean these things? I've replaced the Spring replaced the diaphragm did the mod where you trim down the little nipple on the diaphragm inverted the Spring, but I still cannot keep this thing regulating or hold a holding consistent 6PSI. It keeps wanting to climb.
These older box's need to see a ground feedback from the solenoid when they are not activated. You are better off getting a digital retard as they do not need that. You can get creative with a relay that will revert back to ground when not activated, I've done that with an NOS mini and an old 7AL3 box. You have to be careful with these because if they do not have that ground feedback it will change your timing setting by whatever chip is in it, it's been awhile and I can't remember if it adds the chip amount or subtracts it. I think it adds it if I remember correctly.
This 2.4 bolt has it's own hard plastic washer attached to the bolt. I'm not sure if a crush washer goes along with it, (every car I've ever had has had a crush washer, but this bolt does look different than most) been changing my Oil on the 500x since 45k miles and it never had an additional washer.. I've never had even the slightest of leaks yet.. and is super secure at every change.
I've been doing this for years with the exception that it can be done on the vehicle. Spray the bushings down with penetrating fluid. With the vehicle on A lift lower the vehicle slightly onto a jack stand to relieve pressure on the control arm and zap out the bushing as shown. Install new bushing in reverse with a mushroom bit for the air hammer. This does not work on all suspensions but will on many and very fast.
It's clear that you don't have to deal with road salt and rust. You cannot remove our control arm bushings this way, and you leave insertion of new bushings completely untouched. Why not use one unified technique for removal and insertion?.
and I can tell you- $450 later, and new joints-, my car takes of at the round about so much easier, no vibrations, its like i got a new engine- almost,, yes dam mechanic said the play was a little , not too bad, WTF, took it direct to a tailshaft shop, YOU HAVE A PROBLEM he said,- well not anymore, either DIY or at the SHOP- do it
I use a MAC long throw for everything. I've used short throws as well before and they worked too. Some of the heavier barreled bushings may need the long throw though.
when you say the activation wire from retard control unit to run into the same terminal that the nos and fuel solenoid run off, can the positive wires from the solenoids and retard activation wire be connected into 1 and then connect to the corresponding terminal on the relay?
Yes. On these analog units it needs to see a ground feedback through the coil to essentially "turn off" the retard. Digital box's do not need this ground feedback. On these you need to ground any stages that are not used. I like to ground them and also insert a 0 chip. I check the retard with them by removing the coil from the solenoid housing by just removing the center nut and laying the coil to the side in order to keep them connected, with the digital box you can just unplug the connection.
@@fastcars1173 ok so i can bridge the first stage activation wire with the positive wire on the fuel and nos solenoids. when you say ground the other 2 stages, do you mean like what you do with an earthing out wire? also i run a msd 6al with rev limiter built in ,msd start/retard 3 stage control box, msd pro billet distributor locked out at 34 dgrees, electric fuel pumps for fuel cell to feed carby and another electric pump to feed the fuel solenoid on the nos system. i dont have a msd window switch and was thinking of running a bang button inbetween the micro switch and relay to ensure i get to desired rpm range before activating the nos systemas well as to close the circuit when i reached the desired high rpm range. is there any other pointers or parts you think i might require for my setup? sorry i'm new to the Nos system area
Except I made a 30 min video explaining everything with some extra's! Hmmm! Even helped some first timers do it (as stated in another comment) with success! But yeah, maybe you just didn't like how I spoke!
You provide a good video for first timers or DIYers but you have your process wrong. Run engine to heat oil, some people use Forte oil flush to thin the oil (same effect as using diesel as a pre change additive), filler cap off and dipstick pulled and car lifted etc. The only issue innyour process is that you put the sump plug in before you take the oil filter off. Everytime no matter what car is on the ramp, when i remove a filter there is always extra oil . Try it, drain a sump until it is only deipping and then remove a top mounted oil filter and see how much oil then comes out. Leaving the sump plug out also means you can clean thw oil filter housing with break cleaner to get all the sediment and and crap put of the system. Even crak mounted oil filters will back flow oil into the sump.
@@dannyg5158 Initial commenter from 3 years ago, I apologize for having to reply to this Lubie Noobie under your comment. So, DannyG is it?! Where do I start? Yes, warming the oil is great but not entirely necessary, especially in Southern climates and the thin viscosity of oils that modern engines use. An old SBC with 20/50, yes! This Fiat is not that though, is it?! I'll give you a check on that one. Oil flush? On an engine that has seen little maintenance over the years? NO!!!!! Work out a more frequent oil service interval with the customer if he/she wants to. Oil flush is terrible for an engine, PERIOD!!!!!! Hopefully you will not learn that the hard way in your career! Sludge buildup, to a point, is best left alone again merely suggesting more frequent oil services! At a certain point of sludge content the engine will need removal, thorough cleaning and rebuilding. A simple fact! I explained the whole pickup tube "with oil still in it" under your other comment. Everyone please reference that. If you worked for me and I saw you spraying brake cleaner into an oil filter housing I would warn you once and fire you on the spot if I saw you doing it again! As far as wiping out a cartridge filter housing (which this vehicle doesn't have one), use a rag to wipe it clean. All that is needed! If I did another video on my 2007 Lexus IS250, you would see that in the video, this video we are replying to is not that type, it does not have that style of filter! When you are doing a "Quick Lube" oil change in ten minutes, yes a little oil will stay in the pickup tube and pump, not even remotely enough to affect anything at all whatsoever!
Started off good. But when you started to press the caps back in i begun to fall asleep. Literally. Good video a bit different than how I do it but the end result is the same.
