I'm done surfing due to injuries. Kinda glad now as people feel it makes them special by trying to name the wave. i miss the empty waves before mobile phones were a thing. that's where it started, call your mates, it's goin off. this video had some impressive surfing and young guys who still have balls. good to see.
That wave has always got a bit of a super charge section after the drop and a bottom turn But this sweall is insane! Respect for the riders! Big mahalo for posting this footage.
I've never seen such destructive waves. I wonder if anyone has died being held under by these wipeouts followed by such Hugh waves I never feel I could hold my breath that long. It just seems a nightmare for anyone stuck in these waves following a wipeout.
What a fun session! Instantly would have loved to join in seeing this. Theese glowy early bird sessions a the best! Keep enjoying :) Cheers from Portugal
