Mortar should never be stronger than the brick or substrate it is used with. If working on a period building use a mortar mix with lime in it. A compromise between a modern mix with portland cement, say 5:1 and a traditional lime mix could be a 6:1:1 ( 6 plastering/building sand, 1 portland cement and 1 Hydrated lime )
Strongboys NOT approved for supporting a wall. NEVER NEVER EVER remove the wall before the RSJ is in.... NEVER NEVER EVER put acros on a suspended floor with a plank across you div! Cut through to GL... Monkey builders. Beware.
Thanks mate, much appreciated! Just some small repair work to do on my bungalow, but the prep and application techniques you’ve shown will ensure I get it right. Cheers.
christ if this is how messy a professional does it then me as a novice has no chance. Sorry but that looks awful. why have it all sticking out I don't get it???
@@thespecialist7 all I do is educate myself....the problem I have now is whenever I learn something new a seem to forget something old..its like my internal memory is full 😂😂
@AONF1RL I can honestly say I've never heard that before, but it sounds so true with everyone. Every day is a learning lesson. Some things you forget mainly things you don't do anymore. So it ok to forget. It's normal. Like memories, unless there is a reminder, then the brain remembers . My pass memory is crap unless talked about, or I've looked at an old photographer. I think you're normal but can't point a wall for shit. Take it easy, dude.
If scaffolding is needed might be an idea to see if their roof needs doing or solar panels fitting at the same time or vice versa others you know doing roofing or fitting solar whether the house needs pointing to pass each others work or commission 😁
I agree, but customer funds may not be there to do all that it does make sense tho to do that. They only see what they are asking for in a job. Most of the time, there is always other stuff to do. Thanks for the message
Hi fella sorry for the delay the reason is that no cold spots can travel through the timber joist, yes crazy but true, so they ask you to add 25mm? might of just changed but 25mm of kingspan insulation to the under side of the joist. or buy it already fixed to the plasterboard.thx
Interesting take on repointing a modern wall with a very pronounced struck joint, although a 3 in 1 mix sounds overly strong unless used with engineering bricks . If any would-be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides authourative information, including clarifying suitable mortar mixes, warnings of when worn pointing affects structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
Get ya self a makita circular saw, a paslode nail gun and decent tool belt. Measure the battens with a tape and stand up, you'll double the work you do in a day and do a better job
Hey mate can you tell me why you put the extra 25mm over the insulation instead of just skipping the 25mm board and putting plasterboard straight on top of the rafters ?
Hi fella the reason is some crazy building Inspector decided that it was a cold spot. The spar that is so tge 25mm insulation stops cold coming through the timber. Yes crazy. Plasterboards can have this built on to the plasterboard sheet.
Hi mate. Thanks for the gret video. I am planning a 2 storey 6m long extrnsion on a stone house. Would you recommend using debonding clips on the wall starter with expansion joint or is that overkill? Cheers
Hi fella not to sure what debunking slips are. But you can never go over the top of tieing walls together. Wall starters are easy to use. Good luck with your build. Check all the new building regulations that are out especially if you thinking of renting it out in the future. Karl
I would tooth in all the time if possible. It's cheaper than buying the straps. But it is easier to put the straps on saves tooting out. When it's hard mortar and brick you sometimes need a blade grinder cutter. Or a resip saw is good.
In my opinion, you are demonstrating a very poor method, style and practice of brick pointing pointing even though you are skilfully very adept. The mortar looks too hard, wrong harsh grey colour, no character and completely over-powers the character and colour of the of the brickwork such the mortar stands out far too much. A good test of this is to stand back, half close your eyes and you will find that the pointing stands out too much. This sort of pointing has ruined the brickwork of many buildings and walls by being too hard and trapping the moisture behind it thereby expanding when the temperature is below freezing and “popping’ the face of the brickwork. Your grinding looks as if it was too aggressive having impacted on the brickwork edges. It would be advisable, even though you are working on a modern building, to read about lime mortars and to take a pointing course with either the Society for the Protection of Ancient Building or the Scottish Lime Centre in Charlestown, near Edinburgh.
@@thespecialist7 It looks absolutely amazingly stunning in my opinion I know very little about building or pointing but common sense tells you different materials have different properties and strengths, expansion and contraction rates and some more porous than others including bricks. Obviously older houses are probably built with lime mortar and plaster that allows a house to breathe and really need pointing with it too, probably pre 1930s houses
Hi to Clean the window and frame just wash as normal with soap and water then if you wanted you could buy a frame cleaner. make sure its dry and use a top quality silicone for external frames, hope that helped.
Sorry but Terrible ,you never use a gauge in between battens , always top of the last one laid, to the top of the next one , the battens will soon be out of gauge and your slates will not fit properly , eaves protectors should be fitted and the felt should never lap into the gutter it will rot
