The mission of the people here at Well Manager is to find ways to get more water and provide better plumbing performance from wells considered grossly inadequate or even unusable only a short time ago. In some cases this means developing sustainable water sources for people who do not currently have one because it is not possible to construct an adequate well, in the traditional way of thinking, where they live. In other cases an engineered system is required because the well cannot supply the peak demand need of the connected building or buildings.
The switch started kicking on with just a little water being used . I cleaned out the pipe that leads up to the pressure switch . It was completely clogged up . I cleaned out the switch and the piping .I put it back on and the pressure gauge is now showing that it kicks on at 40 psi and back off at 60 . when the water is turned on the pressure gauge shows the pressure drops down to 40 psi with in a few seconds . what would cause the pressure to drop from 60 to 40 with very little water being used ? It has the same type of tank you are showing .
Check the air pressure of your pressure tank. Water doesn’t compress so the water pressure will drop drastically within a few seconds of opening a tap. The rubber bladder in your pressure tank, when drained of all water, should be pressurized at two psi less than the ON pressure of your switch. I’m betting yours is almost to zero.
my shallow well tank is not getting water? my pressure switch is on the pump. it is a 20 gallon water works tank ant a half hp pump. I have good water pressure. tank just not filling? can you help?
So it sounds like a filter would fix our line so we aren't buying a pressure switch every 18 -24 mths. Thanks for the succint nature of your video! Much appreciated! Subbed!
I’ve been selling high ticket sheet metal fabrication and stamping machines for way too long. I like what I see in your build quality. Do it right, with good quality components and provide good support and you’ll continue to grow and thrive as much as you aspire to. I think you and I could have some good conversations. It’s easy to see that you’re passionate about your product.
We installed this in Canada in 2009 and we have 1 gallon a min on a good day and sometimes a 1/4 gallon and we can live in our house and do anything. It was the best money spent
I have a 88 gallon pressure tank. bought it new only a couple years ago, still looks new. I bought it for the 88 gallon reserve when the power is out. replaced the pressure switch when I put in the tank. recently we had a power outage and as always before when the power went out I knew I had 88 gallons under pressure even without electricity. then I found out when trying to use the water that we had no water from the pressure tank. I just checked the schrader valve for air pressure and air came out, so there is air in it, no water came out of the valve. any ideas what this problem might be? the only thing I can think of is the water is leaking back into the well since there are no leaks in the visible plumbing anywhere. my well pump, which has been fantastic and never given any problems, is a 3/4 horse water ace submersible. is there a valve or seal in the pump that can go bad and allow the water to back flow into the well again? thanks for any help.
The check valve way down the well may be shot..last year i spent $800 on a new submersible pump, brought the old one up and lo & behold the pump was good. It was indeed the check valve that was rusted out and this was why my pump was always running excessively.
My only issue is we just bought this home. And they changed our electric meter. Since then I’m having trouble keeping water in the tank. I have to manually have to put water in the tank! And I guess what I’m asking is how do I keep the water in the tank without adding more then 20-30 gallons in my tank. I have a tank that was installed in 2016
My well switch is 30-50 psi, the pump bleeds down to 38lbs click on for 2 seconds and the gauge says 50lbs again. I have good water pressure inside the house and no air, sand or grit in the sink, making me think I have a leak. But the pump turns on every 5 minutes and surges the lights in the kitchen. The tank is 7 years old, same brand in your video. Have you seen this issue before?
Thanks for the video. Here in East Texas we use Hydro pneumatic tanks. It's just a tank... no bladder. They are only found in areas where water quality requires them. Water and air are mixed together in a hydro pneumatic tank to reduce the "rotten egg" smell that sulphur bacteria and hydrogen sulphide gas in the water can cause. My question is I know there is a bleeder valve down under that allows water to drain back into the well and shuts when the well restarts. I believe this is so the air in the downpipe is used to recharge the tank and a float valve in the side of the tank controls the amount of air in the tank. I currently have a 40 gal tank and want to replace it with a 120. Is the depth of that bleeder dependent on the size of the tank?
I have a 30/50 switch, and its turning on at 55, turning off at 65. But if I flush 1 toilet in the home pump kicks on within 5seconds. My plumber told me that's normal?
Will work, but the problem is you're short cycling your pump and will cause premature failure. Returning the switch to a higher pressure differential will result in less pump cycles but longer run times. If you take the cover off, the center nut with a spring is your cut in setting. It tells the pump when to turn on. This is your 55psi setting. You can loosen that nut until your cut in is back to 30. At this point your pump will turn on at 30 and off at 40 psi. Tighten the nut to the right, this will increase your range. Tighten until the pump turns off at 50. Make small adjustments then run water to check progress along the way. Also, be careful, 240v wiring contacts will be exposed when you remove the cover. If you do want to increase the pressure, remember to try and keep at least a 20psi differential. Good luck.
