This channel is dedicated to the restoration of a 1967 Sports Sprint Mustang Coupe. My mom and dad are the original owners of the car, having bought it brand new in March of 1967 in Buford Georgia. They drove it for 10 years before selling it to our neighbor who then moved to New York. Ten years after that, my dad bought it back for me to use as a teenager. This was the car I was driving when I met and started dating my wife. In 1997 it was parked in my parent's garage where it sat until spring of 2019 when I decided it was time to bring it back to life. Now you can follow our journey to return this classic muscle car to its former glory.
Along the way, we might do some other how-tos on other cars, review some tools, learn a little about my history, and other things as the whim hit me.
Did you do the purchase protection plan @ 2 years $39? I just picked one up yesterday and thinking i should have just in case? Harbor Freight only provides 90 day warranty. Ive heard more than enough excellent reviews on the Daytona
I tried that but there was not enough play in the speedo cable to get enough room for my hand to get back there to get enough grip on the connecting nut.
Yes I did pull it and take to machine shop. While they had it I also went a head and had them harden the valve seals, replace the valve guides and relap the valves. I think I also had them replace the springs.
@@67Stang Glad you got through it! BTW, there is a really good tutorial on removing rusted bolts here...and the comments about it are excellent learning! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x_ky5JVxtqU.html
Thank you sir ,,, we just bought a 67 and the floors were wet.. Under it a not very good floor in it all patches.. so we also go dig deeper in this car.. mebe we need those plastics to we will see.. greets FRom Holland Pete en Merel.
I love the way your car looks unrestored all the lines are straight, the gaps between panels look good and the rough areas on the body add character! What size tires are on your car? I'm not a fan of 15+ inch wheels. Really like the way yours looks with that size tire. 👍👍Thanks!!
I'm missing the entire Parking Brake from dash to wheel (and that has already caused a problem, my wife crunched the driver side door and now I need to replace it), and while I've got a new set with the pieces, I was having a hard time visualizing. Even though mine is a '65, thishelped, and I'll probably be viewing this five or six more times minimum while doing the install. Thanks!
So for the original pin connector in the original harness, you have to cut that and insert the cables one by one into the correct spot on the new control box?
If you were in Melbourne Australia I'd be happy to get all those gauges working perfectly for you. I should move to the US and set up, "Ye olde gauge repair shoppe". There seems to be a lot of people on YT having issues with their classic car gauges. The video is over a year old so I suppose you've got the situation sorted by now. Getting the exact right sender is a minefield for these gauges is an absolute minefield most of these replacement parts are made in China. If you don't already know, the gauge resistance for all your gauges is 73 ohms at low and 10 ohms at high. The little device you keep referring to as a relay is a voltage reducer/regulator which drops the voltage from 12 to 5, if it's showing 5.5 it's a little too high. If it's an original thermal type, get rid of it and install a solid state unit and honestly if you're handy with a soldering iron you can build your own super cheap and be extremely reliable, there are plenty of circuits on line. Then check that the gauge windings are still okay. You should be able to look inside the gauge without taking the dial off, if the windings are black, they're burned. The gauge might still work but now very well. If the windings are still okay, like if they;re a light tan color, then the problems are in your senders. Oil sender should be 70-75 ohms with engine off then climb to about 25 ish ohms with engine at idle. Temp will be very high ohms at cold, for some reason they are all different at cold but all very high, in the hundreds of ohms but the thermister resistance changes very quickly once it starts to warm up, engine cool should climb quickly to 70 ish ohms then at operating temp should be around 20-25 ohms. Tank unit should be 73 E, 23 Half, 10 F. If the regulator is holding 5.5 volts, it's high but if the gauges are okay they will just read a little high but the output voltage should not be higher than 5.05 to 5.01. Anyway, if you get yourself a 3 watt 100 ohm wire wound potentiometer from your local electronics parts store, you can use that a a proxy sender to test the gauges. Just mount it on a plate, draw a reasonable 0-100 scale in 10 ohm steps. Lately YT keeps recommending these videos to me but they're all old and I wish I could be more help.
Those seats look great in the car. They sure look a lot more comfortable than the originals. I think I agree that the pony interior is a winner. I also bet those white inserts are much cooler than black in the summer.
I rebuilt mine with pony deluxe sport-r black with red stitching. Beautiful, but now, in hindsight, It may have been a tactical error per the free swinging back. As the knight templar in the Indiana Jones movie said, "You chose wisely." Apparently, I "chose poorly."
I have the rtx version for the 65 mustang. I figured i was going to go big since i have my wifes approval. Still working my way up to it. I enjoy how meticulous you are in presenting the minutia that Ellie and Jade neglect to show. There are challenges everywhere and you do an amazing job showing the rest of us garage monkeys the pitfalls. Thank you!
You are welcome. I appreciate the suggestion on the camera orientation. I had originally envisioned this as a short which must be oriented in portrait and not landscape. So that is why the camera was the way it was.
I installed Dakota Digital gauges on my 69 mustang which already had an EFI set up (Edelbrock Pro Flo4). Dakota sells a bridge module that allows you to connect the Dakota gauges to the efi system. Once plugged in, it reads the water temp and tach directly from the EFI system. It also can display many of the efi vitals if you didn’t want to look at the sniper screen.
