How I get’er done, this channel is about how I troubleshoot, repair, and figure things out. The information provided by “John Doe“ channel (“we”, “us”, or “our”) on ru-vid.com/show-UCyRk_SiFIt-1V7pCopdmqaw (the “site”) is for general entertainment and informational purposes only. All information on the Site is provided in good faith, however we make no representation or warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability or completeness of any information on the Site. Under no circumstances shall we have any liability to you for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of the use of the site or reliance on any information provided on the site. Your use of the site and your reliance on any information on the site is solely at your own risk. Don’t take my advice, I’m an idiot.
I have the exact same issue, I replaced the starter switch, then it would start but then stop starting, trying a new ignition switch....mechanic said if its intermittent it might be ignition switch, they are known to go bad.
You coukd have showed us from the inside the position of the plastic piece so we dont have to remove the whole steering coloum .u skipped the most important part .
Sorry, I did not see your question, not sure, but generally when it comes to crankshafts and things like that, the bolts tighten up in the opposite direction of the crankshaft spin so they don’t automatically unscrew due to vibration. But just to be sure I would look at it real closely a lot of times those things are over 500 foot pounds of torque.
Hu I got a compass 2014 it's been very good until last year now the steering and breaks feel sluggish and sometimes feels like the car is pulling like half a ton with just me in it
That’s really strange not sure if you may have a major vacuum leak or a fuel issue or both, but that doesn’t sound normal. The vacuum leak could affect the brakes and power but the steering issue shouldn’t have anything to do with vacuum, check your belts on your motor and a bunch of other stuff, I would take it to a mechanic, that’s a lot going on there.
I repaired this with an AO3416 mosfet. Works like a charm so far. Hope it helps others, this mosfet is cheap, it would be a shame to throw away your shaver.
a-1 video !! good explanation, what's' the part # for the bigger bearing ? can't find it, also can you remove front section to get to big bearing ,with out dropping steering column ?
Check the video at 35 seconds for the old part number, and the exploded view at the beginning. I think you would have to pull your entire column out. It’s been years since I’ve worked on that, but I don’t see any other way. If you go to your Ford dealer and tell them what you’re doing they’ve always printed out exploded views for me because they want to sell sell parts. I know the parts numbers are not the same anymore so they would probably look at a picture on the computer screen in the parts department to find it anyway.
Yes i would believe how much work it is.I'm on my 2nd OBS Ford F150, this one has been horribly abused too. It is a lot of work, but also a lot of learn as you go.
I use my step drills reliably up to 3/8 in 0.125-0.140 annealed tool steel. You’ll probably, using a drill press, need to change your speed while going larger
Well that sucks because I ordered the same one a couple years ago and I'm just now realizing that it actually had all the extra parts with it. Only thing? Yes. Got was? A. Generator I had to provide my own oil. Didn't. Get? No wheels no handles. No nothing to late now I guess. That really sucks😅 my luck it could rain 100 dollar bills and I walk out and get pelted with penny's.
The key must be in the RUN Position in order to push the locking pin up so you can remove the Key Cylinder out. It's all explained in the Haynes Repair Manual. What's most important that the actuating rod and the Ignition Switch are in the proper location. It's also explained in the Manual... Good video Sir ..😊
Had this issue with mine and was able to fix it by cleaning both sides of the circuit board with 90% alcohol. Mine had water that got into the housing over time
RIP i just found out that my shaver was turned on after fully charged yesterday and it cant be turned off...same after depleting battery and let it dry. Any solution for that?
Even if you fix their crappy circuit, the motor will burn out because they undersized it and didn't use a big enough gear ratio, so it's over loaded. I'm thinking about modifying one to take a proper motor, gear ratio, and maybe 18650. We shouldn't have to, though. This isn't a complex product to engineer. It should just work basically indefinitely.
5 volts is all you need for this. I used 4 AA NiMH batteries in series. I did this on a 1993 Econoline and it got my brakes working well. The wiring on the RABS module is different in Econolines. All the RABS wires have two colored insulation. I connected (-) to the black/white wire, it being the ground for both solenoids. I alternated between applying (+) to the yellow/light green wire (dump solenoid) and the pink/light green wire (isolation solenoid). These being solenoids, polarity can be reversed. During the standard brake bleed, I smacked the calipers and drum brakes with a plastic mallet to free up any air bubbles stuck to the walls. I couldn't find an extra RABs connector, so I cut off my connector, wired it to my extension cord, did the RABS bleed, then soldered the plug back to the RABS. In hignsight, I should have also soldered some connectors in parallel so I can do this bleed again without cutting and mending wires again. I highly recommend getting a copy of your vehicle's electrical troubleshooting manual. That's what I used and so did John Doe How To. Thanks John!
