I changed my oil and rechecked the plug 2 days later and it was loose, not leaking oil thk god. Retighten it and hoping for the best.. but yea def not good design.
I just did a newer turbo V6 ford pickup with a similar design, I've been putting a drop of 3m weatherstripping adhesive on the plug, after it's tight. Just gives me a little security against loosening.
They sell replacement drain plugs. - Sell is the key word. Why make them from steel that lasts forever? Money. They probably save some on molding plastic over bending steel. It is still wrong. But the real fun is when you remove that plug. Never have I had oil 'fling' in every direction. Well, 360 degree spin. Redic.
What epoxy did you use to fix the clips on the overhead dome and pilar trim? Your video helped me remove everything but with dodge the plastic sucks so of course those things are also broken for me.
my 2023 already leaks oil like crazy from the plastic drain pan and when I change the oil I am always nervous about the plug because it doesnt even seem to snug up tight, like a quarter turn to undo it....seems like some good road vibrations and the thing could just fall out. considering what they charge for these trucks I would think it would make sense to not have such a weak point. not everyone can just replace a truck every couple years. I have 36k on mine in one year and already been in to the shop twice for fairly major issues. I am not impressed .
The whole pan is plastic too. The Buick Envista and Chevrolet Trax all have this. I see so many videos where people seem to be bragging how good these vehicles are. This is how the bean counters cheapened these vehicles with plastic parts.
With this model? None, thankfully haven't seen many in my shop. It's just my experience with plastics and engine parts in general, but a drain plug gets used much more frequently than other parts.
use an extension on a socket wrench (with no socket) put the square end of the extension into the drain plug and turn it half a turn counter clockwise. hope that helps!
Yeah man thanks for posting, I been wondering how to get it out for a while, lol. Looks like I should be able to get it done one of these Saturday's. Thanks again.
I have this problem with my 2013 tahoe, usually disconnecting the battery does the trick but it eventually comes back in can be weeks or months or a year, so i just disconnect battery again, idk what it is imma check this tommorow
@@tompetersonziptiegarage7400 I wiggled that black tube casing in between the door pretty hard to test, and zero change though so I don't think it is that but I could be wrong. These are my symptoms, Battery Dies After 15 min, won't charge, driver side door controls all don't work, when I turn off and exit vehicle stereo and headlights stay on, No oil pressure or anything, it either goes full or to nothing.
Thank you so much for this video :) Now I'm sure that this is something I desire, but definitely do not want to deal with.. More power to you for all of your effortt.. the new fabric looks good! I know its a thing with old rams to have busted up dashboards (I have an '01) Were you able to get everything back together?
The headliner is all good, but I haven't ordered a new dash skin yet. The headliner job really wasn't that bad, but if you do it, I would recommend using 2 cans of spray adhesive.
@@tompetersonziptiegarage7400 just wanted to say I've had the dash skin in my ram for about 2 years now, holding up well, still looks brand new love it.
@@tompetersonziptiegarage7400 These actual headliners are so dry I think I would have sprayed on a coat of 3M adhesive, let it soak in and dry, then spray on another coat. Maybe even a third if the 2nd soaks in also. If you decide to change out the dash cover, I got mine from LMC (not a sponsor), and it fit perfect, like the original. Just takes time and patience to install it. Lots of old and brittle plastic.
@@CPRaider86What was the issue??? I really really need to fix this. All same issues, driver door buttons, battery dying instantly, dash and stereo lights all staying on!!? Please reply asap thx!!
What was the issue??? I really really need to fix this. All same issues, driver door buttons, battery dying instantly, dash and stereo lights all staying on!!? Please reply asap thx!!
Don't let the strip mall location fool you, this was a clean and well run buffet when we visited. My favorite buffet in Lancaster. Plenty of choices and also lots of delicious sushi.
Having a similar issue My Tahoe 2007 has been Declining battery voltage not enough power to start but Radio turns on it still has power to everything else so i Jump it starts just fine and it runs just fine all day long Once it sets overnight then half dead again and I noticed that when you shut the truck off and get out those lights around the cluster / dash lights don't turn off usually key off open the door they go off but they stay on so I waited never went off but another weird thing as we're trying to diagnose the issue we can get them to shut off by Turning the key back-and-forth sometimes so ya I am going to definitely going to check these wires now ....
@@tompetersonziptiegarage7400 It's something to do with the Stock Radio We unplug the radio fuse and now we have no problems battery stays charged and starts every time We are guessing that there is a electrical problem with the radio So yeah Unplugging the Radio fuse solved our issue and the Cluster/dash lights turn off now too
@@mustang_sn95_garagei started having this problem ever since i got a new radio system installed in mine, because for mine i know im having this issue when i press the steering wheel radio controls and they wont work and when i shut the tahoe off dashboard stay on and wont turn off.
What was the issue??? I really really need to fix this. All same issues, driver door buttons, battery dying instantly, dash and stereo lights all staying on!!? Please reply asap thx!!
I just pressure tested a customer's 05 CR-V and his ruptured on the left just in front of the rubber hose from the heater core. It requires several hours. I just called Honda to get the pipe. I would recommend changing the hoses as well. If you have replaced the starter before, it's not that bad.
I did this repair on my son's 2008 CR-V a few years ago... Several rotted out spots on the one pipe. Not being a car mechanic, it was a lot of work and pretty daunting. Also, at the time, due to the pandemic an global shortages, the cooling pipe was nowhere to be found. I substituted the nearly same part from the Honda Element. Got it done after several hours of fighting with all the rusted fittings (it is a New England vehicle, so EVERYTHING is heavily rusted/oxidized). Fast forward to last week... Had to replace the starter on the same car, thanks to what I went through for the cooling tube, it went pretty quick and relatively easy. Didn't replace any hoses... But I did replace the thermostat and housing, as well as most of the hose clamps and hardware. Used non-metallic "anti-seize" on all the bolts too after struggling for two hours trying to remove the intake manifold bracket bolts.
Give the guy a break...tight quarters and a lot of work. This metal pipe sits just above the starter. If you do your homework as for our 2007 CR-V, we ordered HONDA parts (1) Pipe, Heater #19510-RTB-000 and (2) Grommet #91315-PNA-003
If for whatever reason you can't source #19510-RTB-000, the pipe for the Honda Element is nearly the same, at least enough so that it's usable without any modification.
