I'd like to buy a set of those rudder brackets for my Rans S-21. I went to Josh's RU-vid channel and web page but cannot find a way to order the brackets.
and all of a sudden ky epoxy wood bird makes me happy,...all that riveting is a nightmare! thnaks for showing! seeing a different technical approach due to material sometimes helps solving a problm or getting an idea...
That turned out great DJ! Lots of great info in your video, too - as always. I've done quite a bit of airplane painting over the years, about 3 total and some parts and pieces. I've had good success with Prekote, too. Never tried out the Speedokote epoxy primer. I may give that a try. What product are you using for your color? I like those pouring/mixing lids. Haven't tried them before. Where did you find those? Looks like you're using the 3M PPS 2.0 system for your cups. I love that setup. So easy to clean. That paint booth looks great too. I had no idea they were so affordable. I have a 10x20 "portable garage" in my hangar that I hung some lights in. It works pretty well, but I've had it set up for a long time and am currently using it with a portable air conditioner as my work space. It's gonna be hard to get all the dust out when the time comes to get back to painting. Inflatable booth may be a good answer. Curious to see if the lighting is adequate. Anyhow, thanks again for documenting everything. I'm building my left wing now. Your videos have been a big help.
WOW!!!! That looks awesome! You never cease to amaze me with your attention to detail. Appreciate your dedication to letting us follow your progress.Thanks a million!
The tail flash is perfect. Again, you do impeccable work. Can't wait to see the airplane finished. And, in reference to the equipment purchases (paint guns), I am a firm believer in that you get what you pay for. It is also really cool to see what I think are RC airplanes hanging on your wall in the background. I am a fellow RC enthusiast. Thank you for sharing your build videos
This video inspired me to buy the '74 C-150 N3341V that I am restoring completely. I want the braking power of your Grove brakes, but the company said they are experimental and not FAA approved. How do I go about getting those double puck brakes legal?
MARCEDRIC KIRBY FOUNDER CEO. MARCEDRIC.KIRBY INC. THE VALLEY OF THE VAMPIRES We need some airplane and airplane hangers for our people to move around the United States for the jobs for about to correct with the bank
Really enjoying the build videos! Just starting the VS and these have been a big time saver to get a quick overview vs endlessly studying the plans. What did you end up doing for the wire run for the MicroMax beacon?
That’s why tapered silicone rubber plugs should be used. We powdercoat a lot of tube structures with holes that can’t have powdercoat and we plug them with silicone plugs made for that purpose.
It's clear that you dimpled the skin with #40 then upsized to #30. How about the spar? Did you countersink with a #40, then upsize like Josh did, or upsize and then countersink with a #30?
Great Video Looks Nice. Thinking about purchasing these for my garage and wondering what is the size of the tall cabinets and uppers that you used as i noticed they offered different sizes including width, height and depth
All my decades of flying have been behind a Continental or Lycoming. I did consider the Rotax but ultimately decided on what I know best. Nothing against Rotax. Fine power plants they are.
I was an aircraft mechanic in the Air Force both active duty (21 years) and an additional 16 years with the Air Force as a Civilian. During some of that time, I was also a maintenance Quality Assurance Inspector. I just wanted to say your work is impeccable. Thank you for sharing your build and videos.
You are very welcome. I finished my Air Force Civil service career in 2022 just down the road from where you live. I was one of the privileged few who got to work at the "Boneyard" at Davis Monthan. During my career I was a crew chief and I worked on F-15's and U-2 spy planes. I finished up at DM on the QF-16 Full Scale Aerial Target (drone) program. You can view videos of them right here on RU-vid.
Because their answer is always ‘you’re doing something wrong’. I generally don’t bother asking them anything any longer. Even when there is a clear error in the design they deflect.
We absolutely love the two story workspace that you were able to build within your hangar. We have a couple questions: 1- did you hire an architect / engineer to design your 2 story space? Or did you fonit with a particular software? 2- is the first floor 2x6 ? 3- is the second floor 2x4? 4- what glass garage door did you buy? Make and model? 5- would you change something now that you have had the space for a few years? Thank you. Big fan of your project.
1) I designed this myself and hired a draftsman to draw the prints. 2) all framing is 2x6 with TJI floor joists 3) see above 4) I don’t recall the brand but it’s aluminum dual pane glass 12x8 5) there are several changes but nothing major. Just add a few more electrical outlets and additional lighting.
Thats probably engineered and manufactured to exact specifications. You are probably assembling the ribs and sheet metal at slightly different temperatures, thus the holes are off.
It’s definitely not caused by thermal expansion/contraction. Aluminum expands/contracts at approx .001” per 36” per 2 deg F. Given the error I experienced it would require a minimum of 60 degree F difference between when the parts were manufactured to when I assembled. I assembled this wing at around 65 deg F. I highly doubt the parts were produced at 5 or 125 deg F. Regardless, the ribs are aluminum also and would contract/expand at an equal rate.
@@Outbound300 Hmmm... The wing ribs as furnished in an all-metal kit, most likely, will have been stamped out of 2024-0 alclad aluminum in a hydraulic press. After forming, the ribs are placed in an oven and heat treated to a T-4 condition. This makes them stronger but also harder and more brittle. That being the case, it is very important that all edges be smoothly chamfered and free of saw or file marks lest they create a starting place for cracks. Unfortunately, in the heat treatment process the ribs often come out warped and bowed . . . especially in the flanged leading edge areas. The most important rib preparation you can make is to remove as much of the distortion and bowing as you can. The bow or curvature in the wing ribs can be completely straightened except, perhaps, near the leading edges. Straight each rib with the help of fluting pliers.
You stated the maximum allowable clearance (wobble), is there a minimum clearance? My understanding is these have a tendency to get carbon build up causing the exhaust valve to stick, seems like this would be a good way to spot that as well. Great video, thanks!
There is a minimum. I forget exactly but it’s around .010” or so. Good point. If it were less than that you could investigate further and consider reaming the guides to clear out carbon coking.
You are exactly right about those bushings. They should be done because I struggled with those for hours. There are many tools needed for this kit (not mentioned) that luckily my husband had. ex: reamer set.
Love this! Just subbed. I love the angle of the windows and doors upstairs, looks amazing. I am curious about the "Patrol" on the wings. I noticed it first when you were by the RV and it looked like the same font as CHP. I know it's not, but I was curious what you do and looked up the reg number. Still don't know, but the FJB flight I found was awesome!
