1117hp dreams on a trailer park budget, lmao. HP tuners, GMT-800, Escalade, LQ9, Engine builds & repairs, building cool shizz in the shop, minibikes, go-karts, custom builds, head porting, anything Mechanical and or fast enough to do something stupid on! Being a small part of the RU-vid and Motorsports community and helping that community expand and grow is the goal...
Thank YOU for the support!
I have updated channel memberships for anyone who has the means to help me support and grow this channel and do bigger, better builds PLEASE AND THANK YOU ! I have some awesome builds in mind but with the family of 6 and this economy it's getting hard on everyone so anything would help get this boat moving I have the first level of membership starting at only 1$ per month up to premium package including 1 on 1 advise with me at 25$ p/month
Just be careful with a little guy i was 17 probably just over 110 pounds i built a stage 2 212 with billet internals with a 265 hot cam and it would pick the tire up on me over 30mph on a minibike that weighted combined with me 235 pounds
To give you a rough estimate of the clutch you need for your engine if you have a tachometer and see where you have it idling the best and then just set your clutch speed or get a clutch with a stall speed about 3 to 500 RPM above that at minimum
Just replaced this housing on my 16 sxt charger, so far so good been about 2 weeks and of course everything is running well. Only time will tell but I feel really confident about this part. Gives me ease of mind.
It was a good JOB you did!! I'm a person who watches everyone and at Sametime I'm a person who is trying to fit a bike motor in a small space, but I'm trying to figure it out!! That's why I come to you!!, maybe you can do things that I cannot!!
I seen a comment in the Texas speed video about up load of the video doing a AFM DOD delete. I want to do it on my 2012 I’m kinda nervous about it. Especially after reading the comments in there video saying how they made a bunch of extra work for themselves
@@RAWRMotorsports would you say there particular package is the most reliable. Technically my truck hasn’t shown any signs of failure. No ticking still smooth but I can’t afford a failure. So I’m trying to figure out what i should do as a preventative measure.
@@RAWRMotorsports man ever since i found out about this AFM DOD issue especially in the “newer” pickups I have been regretting purchasing this 2012 Sierra. It’s considered a 4th generation so hopefully I can get it deleted properly. I would consider myself mechanically inclined I have built a couple 4 wheelers a couple crotch rockets. And fixed plenty of regular cars but I have never went this deep into a motor. I was planning on learning about the 5.3L on my 2001 but the 2012 is my daily driver to and from work so I have to do that truck first. This has me so nervous I’m considering selling the 2012 it is in decent shape and fairly low mileage 137k and no current issues as far as the motor is concerned. BUT when I did the last oil change the old was as BLACK and only about 4 quarts came out. I did take the oil change to the end of the % counter I normally do it every 3k miles. But this oil change I didn’t have the cash at that moment to get the oil and filter. I didn’t think it would be that big a deal especially since the % was at 30.
Just use a chalk line. Simpler and gives you a line on the floor. The line isn't as important as being square to each other. Also the anchoring in enough concrete is the paramount thing here. Dont shim until you start anchoring and use plastic horseshoe shims.
Plastic ? I have metal horseshoe shims that came with the lift .. it's straight and square .. very close on a couple holes right at 4.25" concrete the rest were about 5" .. just got everything done except wiring and hydraulic fluid
@@RAWRMotorsports just follow the mfr recommendations for min anchor embedment but be sure not to have any closer than 6.25" inch from any crack, seam, joint or old anchor. Plastic shims is the industry standard typically. What make is the lift?
I shoulda done a full length video .. its about the same as a pentastar same basics .. take valvecover off and replace the secondary chains and tensioners
Hey you're not doing anything illegal are you so ashamed of yourself that you got to wear a hood much less you can't even tell us what the f*** you're doing is your voice sound that terrible😢
@nezabytes this channel would grow alot faster if I had a tech guy .. somebody to help with the technology , editing, marketing etc etc .. with 3 kids and trying to run a auto repair shop it's alot lol
SOME PEOPLE DO HAVE TRUCKS TOO WORK HARD AND GET DIRTY ,UNLIKE WHITE YELLOW SOFT CLEAN CLEAN HANDS LIKE REPUBLICANS WHO ARE MOSTLY WHITE'S AND NEVER WORKED ONE DAY'S HARD WORK IN A LIFETIME AND HAVE WHITE YELLOW SOFT CLEAN CLEAN HANDS LIKE A SIX YEAR YOUNG LITTLE GIRL WHO NEVER WORKED ONE DAY'S HARD WORK IN A LIFETIME
Thank you SO much for this example. I tried every other tool on the market before this finally worked for me. The hex head was stripping because the filter was over-torqued. Only the pipe wrench provided enough clamping force to remove the filter housing. I replaced the filter housing and wrote on the top of mine, 17ftlbs.
Comments about leaky valves you need a valve job plain and simple!! Using a drill and grinding material off is doing you more harm than good Now your other angles if they were any good are no longer sealing. Before tfhe "but it runs fine" comments start. Plus youre missing out on power by skipping one.
But yes if I did it again I would pay for a performance valve job & lightly lap in .. a valve job alone is not enough even brand new assembled heads need disassembled and lapped in
@@RAWRMotorsports yes lol that’s what I meant to say . My apologies. I should have watched the entire video before commenting . So you bought this off someone , correct and it had good internals . Looks like they honed it from the looks of it. But you said you used scotch brite? Ok that’s the green pad , correct ?
@@RAWRMotorsports I wonder what grit they used to hone the cylinder bore . It looks like a heavy grit . I once used a 340 grit and it ate up the rings 😐
@@RAWRMotorsports correction, I used 240 grit and that ate my piston rings . Heard it’s best to use 320 -400 grit with the ball hone if bore is round and not miss shaped .
