You know it! Timelapse 360 cameras offer to cool views of the world.

Good stuff. thanks for sharing. i had a hard time with clouds. you will see soon..

every combination can be calculated by each lower full fstop you want to subtract you double the shutter speed. the same goes for neutral density filters for each f stop of light reduction half the Shutter speed. nd6 is about 20 stops so that would be another 3.5 stops. so for example in my video partial was f8 shutterspeed 1/800 and nd5 filter with another 3.5 stops you’d want about 1/60. funny I was going to do a video on this but figured it was too technical.

@@BolideStudios Ah thanks thats helpful, but what of baileys beads, where you have f22 and 1/15 for instance, my amazon lens doesnt have automatic aperature and is rated 8.3 to 16, does that mean i'm limited to using that range, i would imagine at 700mm its closer to f16, but before the eclipse begins its still ok to set to F8? For baileys would i just leave it at f8 and try to "guess" at a shutter speed instead (sorry newb to some of this, confused a bit). EDIT: i guess the lens is fixed aperture depending on where you set things, so i dont think the f value has any effect

sorry to be confusing. it’s my preference to have a star burst. hence my suggestion to you to use f22. many don’t like it so I was just giving an opposing view. note the star burst you get will be dependant on your lens. the number of star burst lines depends on the number of non opposing sides of the aperture. there are so many answers here. so I say take a photo of a light and night with the same aperture to give you an idea. you’ll only get about 20 seconds to get a photo like that. hope all goes well for you. hopefully no clouds

Thank you. That makes sense. Much appreciated.

glad it was helpful. just the tricks I learnt from photographing a few eclipses. hope things go well for you

my pleasure. hope for clear skies

The ND5.0 represents the optical density. i don't want to confuse you against others showing the ND factors. So the the filter i am referring to is in fact a factor of ND100000 which is 16.5 stop reduction. Most solar camera filters don't block IR. The one i use is www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1771575-REG/kase_1121230016_77mm_nd100000.html. This definitely isn't safe to look through. Look around they do exist and are more expensive. You only have one set of eyes. I suggest assume none of them should be looked through at the sun. Modern digital cameras do have a filter for IR which i believe is more to do with assisting accurate human light reproduction than anything. Sensors also filter UV negating to a large degree the use of UV filters many people add to their lenses. Though i suggest they use them more to protect than an attempt to improve picture quality. I cannot say how much UV and IR is filtered from the sensor, i bet its not all wavelengths and therefore definitely a risk for sun damage. Remember your exposure time is very small this is likely to be the bigger factor than anything. There will be a trade off with sun exposure and length of shutter speed. Magnifying the sun on your sensor is always going to be risky. The rest of the time your shutter is what is between the lens and sensor . Remember the higher the focal length the higher the risk for damage. I doubt any camera is certified for excessive sun exposure. With regards to damage of your camera and sensor you should speak with your filter and camera manufacture to be sure. Don't listen some guy on the internet. I'm sure there is a million different correct answers here depending on the product and filters. Id say a fully open shutter will still kill your camera. The other thing to consider is overall excessive heat of the lens causing internal damage with lubricants etc. Many lenses state not to exceed 100deg F. As stated heat will also change your focus.