The Glock 19 Gen 5 doesn't have those finger grooves and makes for a better grip. If you feel you have to change things out on any firearm you really might want to consider not getting that particular firearm. I always prefered buying a gun that fit my needs right out of the box. I love my Sig P320 Glock 19 Gen 5 Beretta 92fs. Right out of the box all 3 are perfect for my needs.
This video illustrates some sad things in the gun world. For one, you have a friend who believes that you're doing the right thing yet he's failing to see that his life could end because of your bad advice and belief about polishing feed ramps. Then you show your firearms like some expert only to show a hammer follow which means that you overpolished the sear engagement on your competition gun. I just hope no one watches this and assumes that it is correct advice. First go shoot the gun for at least a few 100s rounds to verify it is working. Some 1911s are fresh from the factory tight and needs to be cycled a few times before it works top notch. Messing with it is only going to cause more problems later on such as the hammer follow where you over polish the sear engagement and take too much material off.
I have a bunch of generic altoid size tins, and they are all silver, no paint on them at all. Should I sand them before painting them? Or can I just paint them without sanding them?
Nathan's ferro rods are the best. I've been using 12% cobalt HSS lathe bits recently, they are even harder (HRC-wise) than regular HSS lathe bits and they work really good as ferro rod scrapers.
Yeah, it's a damned shame that actual mechanical engineers, including John Browning, are too stupid to recognize the need for a polished feed ramp. (/snark)
Perfect! I was thinking I could PROBABLY figure out how to swap out my gas tube on the FSB to a BRT EZTune, but this was a quick tutorial that removed all of the doubt. Thank you!
I scaled these up to hold a dozen quart, wide mouth, mason jars. Included in the sizing is allowance in width and length to allow for a grid of 1/8” hardboard spacers to keep the bottles from clanging against each other. Without the hardboard the cardboard carton the jars come in also fits right inside this size. I also scaled them to be taller to allow 1/4” of space on top of the jar (with lids on). To keep costs low, I used cheap/rough 1”x8”x8ft ledger boards from homedepot, which were about $6. Since the box is wider than the one shown in the video, the bottom needs another slat. Since two end boards are taller than the board I bought I had to edge join two, which I did with dowels and glue. It could be biscuits and glue, pocket holes and glue, or just glue. Rather than attaching handles I drilled and jigsawed hand holes Ends with handholds: 11-3/4 (finished width) 8-1/4 finished height of end panels - need quantity two Side and bottom slats: 17-1/4 (finished side length) 3” width - need quantity 7 (two for each side and 3 on the bottom) Bottom feet/cleats: Final bottom cleats two at 11-3/16 x 3.5 wide inset 1” all around. I intentionally made these a little short on the length because I didn’t want them to bind, going forward I may make the 1/8” longer
What are the dimensions for a quart size jar? I have both sizes. The cardboard boxes got wet and cause them to fall over. So I was looking for another alternative for stacking them up. Thank you for the information and video of the pint size jars.
I like these guys and their ammo but unfortunately component prices have made it to where you can buy bulk commercial plinking ammo as cheap or cheaper than their reman stuff. Not their fault, it's hard to compete with the huge companies especially when powder, primers, lead, and copper prices are crazy.
please help me. You are an experienced person. I dropped a 7x17mm pistol bullet into the hole of the watery toilet. How this happened is a long story. How can I get this bullet out of there? I think it's a bullet without waterproofing . Will a magnet hold it? Or would keeping it in water for many years make it completely harmless? If it is not found, I worry that it will be dangerous for everything else in the future.
I just bought a Kimber Micro 9 with feed issues. I understand that's a common issue and thought about polishing the feed ramp myself but am just sending it back so they can fix it since it hasn't had a round run through it yet. I didn't expect problems from a new Kimber. Am I being unrealistic thinking that?
Thank you, I have been looking for a no-nonsense jar crate video. Have you made the crates for the larger jars (the quarts and half gallon size) I am still looking through your videos but haven't found it yet.
Okay, I did not realize the barrel could torque so easily. I've been doing it so wrong this many years with using just the wrench. I actually thought 35 ft/lbs torque was like where you had to muscle it in. I actually got the torque wrench to replace a barrel and made a horrible mistake. I did not realize the "click" sound meant it reached the torque and kept going and going until nearly all of the teeth on the barrel nut is smashed. I thought the wrench was broken but didn't realize it hit that torque much easily than I thought. Oops. Also, I snapped the wheeler receiver thing. The pins are completely smashed off and broken from over-torque. I used to the inch/lbs wrench and when you hit the limit, it wouldn't let you continue. So I thought the 1/2 inch torque wrench do the same but never knew it could be reached so easily.
$7.34 for a two foot of 1/2 copper tubing at home depot. Cut into 4 6 inch pcs cut a notch just over 1/2 of end dia. And 1/8 inch deep. Great dwmooner. Cut the futter off a cheap can opener and remove the revit that keeps it from opening too much and you have a loader
