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check the leather seats out as well, they develop cuts for no apparent reason. I think it's the perforations that compromise the leather with age. I have a 2017 with the passenger side seat base with cuts in it, no way i did it with anything.
Biggest heap ive ever owned. Bought a 2015 gt new. Two manual trans rebuilds before 70,000km for third gear breaking. Rear caliper seized and caught fire at 80,000km
Wow. That's very unfortunate. Your rear caliper s seized causing the fire? Did the fuel tank catch fire? And the transmission build was because of the clutch? Or a synchro inside the gear set?
@@CarInspected i put the fire out when i saw the smoke. Third gear was not hardened. Mazda has a tsb out on it. I traded it for a corolla after the brake incident
And here's me trading my 2015 GT for a new Turbo hatch with 283k miles with only regular maintenance and normal wear and tear repairs. The trans issue sounds like owner error. 🤷🏽♂️
I have the problem that I don't know which is ground and which is supply. Can you tell me the cable colors, which is ground and which is supply? The supply has to be plugged into the trunk, into the fuse holder. I have everything ready, but I don't know where the other 4 are and where they go... I have plugged in the light switches correctly, there are two blue ones. The fiber optic cable is also already in the trunk at the station. The CANBUS cable is also already connected. Can you help me, do you have a plan or idea for me? Greetings from Germany
I dont recall the details exactly. But do you have ISTA software? If so, you should be able to get the wiring diagram for the HUD from there, and it would have all the wires and color codes for each wire. I'll look up my papers and see if I can locate the power supply wire color. Please note that the pre LCI and post LCI wiring is different for most systems (color codes can also be different). The car in this video is a 2010 535i XDrive LCI Canadian spec.
@@CarInspected Unfortunately I don't have BMW ISTA. I drive a 525i from 07/2005 with a N52 engine as the European version. I've really done everything I can. So far without success. But I'm going to partially assemble the car today and hide all the cables somehow until I've found plans or a solution myself. Thanks for your help anyway, unfortunately it doesn't help me much :(
@manuelgorbartschow the Canadian spec cars, and specifically, the 2010 model year (LCI) have the following set up, pins 5 and 6 (red&black, and red&blue) are power. And brown wires pins 11 and 12 are ground wires. Of course, I'm talking about the pins coming out of the HUD connector
@@CarInspected Thank you my dear!!!! 🫶🏼❤️ I have exactly this color combination here too. The two red/black and red/blue cables go into the fuse box, where the HUD has its own fuse. Is that right? I have to check what the pin assignment is. Where did you connect the black/yellow twisted CAN bus cable? If necessary, I would tap into another CAN bus line. I wrote to you on Instagram, I will give you an update tomorrow and send you pictures. Thank you so much for your help 🫶🏼
I have the same exact car same year has 205k miles motor sounds good and it runs good on mine work has been done new shocks tires brakes and other things and belts but you think 205k is probably towards the end of its life ? In terms of the motor stay running?
Run a compression test.... that would give you a good indication how's the internals condition of the engine... has the oil been changed the regularly? And has the car been maintained well? If so then those engines can last a long time if well taken care of
@@CarInspected oh yeah it’s been decently taken care of I’ve only had it for a month but my uncle had it for a while before me like I said new tires all new shocks brakes and belts and new oil and air filter and spark plugs not sure how it was maintained before me and my uncle thought and another question Is it good to let the Rpms get a bit high before shifting ? I used to shift a bit early but now I wait for it to rev a bit high usually I shift gears around 3500-4k rpms is that good ? Or is it better to shift early ?
@troyholland3436 if you're trying to extract as much power as possible from the engine then changing at high RPMs accomplishes that but it creates unnecessary load on the engine and the transmission and the clutch..... it is better to shift at lower RPMs for fuel efficiency and drivetrain longevity
@@CarInspected I got a question man is it normal on these cars for the clutch pedal to not have much pressure on mine it has a little pressure but not much but the car shifts good just kinda low on pressure on the pedal
I'm going to buy an exact same car tomorrow in BC. Your video helped me a lot. Thank you so much. Do you think is it worth to buy a 2010 mazda 3 GS Sedan with 210,000 km for CAD 6500 if there's not any major issues? Need your valuable opinion.
Old dirty oil can cause clogs in the oil distribution system which can lead to low oil pressure, however if the correct oil (for a specific engine) has been regularly replaced at the correct intervals (specified by the engine manufacturer) and the oil level is within spec, then it's very unlikely that the oil can get dirty enough to cause low oil pressure.
Your comment is really confusing. Don't understand. Are you saying that we didn't check for rust? Yes, it is easy to check if you have the specialized instruments designed to reveal Rusty panels (we have the tools and we use them), just because it's not shown int he video, doesn't mean it hasn't been done.
I have a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek with 96000km on it. The low oil level light was on (yellow one) two days ago, but I didn't stop immediately. Today I used the dipstick and found it at the minimum mark, could I drive it for another 7k to buy the engine oil?
It would be better to top up the engine oil as soon as you can. Please note that in most cars, the minimum oil level on the dipstick means a loss of 1 or 2 liters of oil. So, in your case, the minimum level means that the engine lost about 1 liter of oil. With all of that said, if it was my car, I would not drive it, I would get a liter of oil from subaru and top up the engine oil before starting the engine again.
Yes, you're right... it was a worn-out bushing for the E-Clutch, but i dont think it shows in this video. But yes, either rebuild the transmission or just replace it with a low mileage one...
I have this with my BMW. Have had it for years. Aside from a bad sensor, it can also be using the wrong oil. As temperature increases, the oil can thin out resulting in this. But to be on the safe side, yes shut it off until you figure it out!
No, it actually came out through one of the rear doors, and if I recall correctly, I think it was the driver side rear.. you will have to bend it, but make sure you don't create any creases and be very careful when bending the headliner while taking it out and placing the new one in... you will also have to maneuver the front seats to their lowest position and I don't remember if it was tilted all the way forward or backward but anyway you will have to move the seats, so make sure you don't disconnect the battery (if your seats are electric)
Loooool.... you misunderstood... this engine (BMW N55) has a timing CHAIN, not a belt... but the serpentine belt (AKA accessory belt) slipped off the pulleys and was ingested into the engine through the crankshaft front seal... it then got shredded and then found its way into the oil sump mesh...
It's a known problem with the N54 and the N55 (some say that the N52 has the same issue). The oil filter housing gasket leaks, dripping oil on the accessory belt. The accessory belt slips and gets wedged between the crank pulley and the crankshaft front seal (there is a few millimeters clearance between crank pulley and the front of the engine where the crank pulley rotates), the accessory belt gets chewed up and then penetrates the front crankshaft seal (behind the crank pulley), it then enters the crank case and gets shredded by the timing chain and sprockets.. then it tries to get into the oil system via oil sump...
1. Owner should have tried to just change rod bearings and the caps. Old school way of polishing the crank if it had damage and then plastigauge it. 2. Problem was likely a result of not doing regular oil changes which will result in... 3. New engine having the same problem eventually if they continue not to change oil. Did the oil pressure light flicker once the engine warmed up or was it constantly on even when cold.
1. Agree 2. It's probably right. 3. Oil changes will be done at 3000 miles. 4. Oil pressure problem completely went away. It was coming on ONLY when the engine is fully warmed up, and the engine was shut down immediately to preserve the internals.
Ì LOVE TĤE 2 green exterior ìt looks great, I have an idea that this car is still modern looking even for these days sought of and 1 còùld use it every day of the year if wanted to, it's certainly a great looking Buick.
They all work well, but most users seem to make a decision based on how easy it is to install and remove the lock. If it's complicated, then fewer people would use them.
