So this channel is really all about making things from wood. I'll be making videos of projects that I am currently producing and I will also make videos trying to show you how I do things. I want them to help you if you are beginning or you may see a different way of doing something if you are more advanced!
I hope that you can learn from the things I show you, I found some other channels helpful but sometimes they seem to go a longwinded route, I'm always trying to work as efficiently as possible while producing a good level of quality. This doesn't always work out as any woodworker will know...If you have any comments or suggestions, they are always welcome under the videos and I will try and respond to them all.
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Very interesting video, thank you. You mentioned water marks can be a problem on French -polished surfaces. I learned a trick to remove rings caused by drinking glasses or tea cups from a piano restorer. Simply mix half a teaspoon of olive oil with the ash from a cigarette until you have a smooth paste. Rub this mixture on the ring for a few minutes with a soft cloth and the white marks will disappear.
That is a grading stone not for cleaning the stone, the water does this. For quick removal grade the stone to 220, then grade to 1000, also, you need to keep the chisel or plane iron moving or your stone will not stay flat, as per yours. You do need to put a micro bevel on at 30 degrees, this extends the sharpened edge. Read the instructions!
For wood surfaces that are going to be used continuesly (fireplace mantel,tables etc i use bowling alley wax. Doesnt dent best maybe 10 coats. You can apply let sit for 10 minutes, buff with dry cloth repeat until desired effect. Must remember the oil seaps in the wood pores. Can apply over paint, wooden cabinets. Not as much sheen as french polish which is mainly applied to antiques that are for show only. The wax has a nice smell too compared to poly(I never use or lacquer. Polyurethan and lacquer finishes are for cheaper woods.
I use butchers bowling alley wax on wood surfaces that are going to have items resting on them like flower pots, mantel pieces etc. If you can drop a bowling ball on wax and not dent. Easy to apply. Can do 4 or 5 coats a hr. I never use poly, too thick,smelly and its used for cheaper woods.
Sorry, another one I remembered, when it gets sticky we had pre-made made beeswax and paraffin goop to de-sticky the work, thank you once again. (I just subscribed)
Awesome, I needed a reminder as its been 30 years since I last did this. There are 2 things I remembered that might help you that I was shown; 1, warm the wood on a windowsill or with a hair dryer before first coats. 2, apply first coat and immediately work the wood with fine wire wool (3 or 4 times). wipe down then brush in 3-4 coats and then do what you did. I cheat on gun stocks, I use Tru-Oil. Thank you for posting
Well Done! I love it! On burnings I have done in the past ( this is what I should have tried). I think the burning also makes the wood a bit harder also! Thank you for teaching me this method!
Hi! I've been having a problem of stickiness after my 4th layer of shellac applied with foam brush, and it's a stickyness that never dries. What could be the issue here? I'm using a one pound cut. Thanks.
Hi! Great videos, thank you. I was wondering how you would tackle water marks - from overly enthusiastic mopping? I have a wooden fire surround with water staining around the bottom, I have no idea where to start with taking the finish off.
SUPER video. I LOVE french polish finishes. As you say - deep, smooth, glossy. It is delicate to alcohol and water but it is the most beautiful finish you can get. AND it is fairly easy to repair. You do have to be able to buff with feel.
I have watched this vid 3 times now (yes - I might be slow). But I have picked up more detail each time, like the shellac mix only lasts about 6 months and then goes sticky so that you can't sand it.... This happened to me. Many thanks for the tips. This is really informative and needs to be looked at over again for the best detail... I'll be back for more learnings :)
use a stanley knife to mark out, hit chisel 16th away from knife mark across grain, run stanley knife blade down the grain. 3 hits(depending on the timber ) across the grain at regular intervals(experience).
for a smooth plane , you really ought to take a couple of extra swipes on the edges, just to take out any chance of creating ridges. that knot creates short grain, plane into it at the longest angle it presents you.
ive always used a belt sander(with an old belt on) for first angle, use light pressure and not create heat to get a small burr all the way across. i skip the flattening on the back of the stone. have never used a strop, i debur flipping the blade/chisel on the palm of my hand. my oil stone is my grandads from the first world war lol... its anything but straight but as im only putting the final cutting edge on it makes no difference. i have watched these idiots on yt mess about sharpening things and totally agree with you .... theyve never seen a site and their sharpening method would last 3 good hits lol. not only the time they have spent sharpening their tools youve gotta add in the time off camera they have spent polishing their tool with their excitement🤣
Thanks for the tips! I've been reading around a bit and wonder about two options: have you tried a grade of shellac called "button lac" instead? (never tried this myself) Also, for my first shellac project I used isopropyl alcohol instead of denatured ethanol. Seemed to work well, but do you know if there are any positives vs negatives?
I always avoided shellac because I had been taught to believe it was a finish that was used by people when they didn’t have the technology of polyurethane. Then I was trying to get a serious “piano” finish. Everywhere I looked I kept hearing the same answer. Shellac and French polish. I was stunned by the results of my first attempt!
