Thank you for the video; I just bought a similar tool. I wonder if a rifle vise or carrier could be made in a high school wood shop these days. I wonder how creative the guys in metal shop got...
I realize this video is a year old, so I’m sure you’ve got it figured out right now. I have a brand new one of these lawnmowers and just took the blades off for the first time and the sharp edges were definitely on the same side. I think whoever you bought that from must’ve put them on incorrectly.
Came in nice, so far. Lots of disease pressure this year. Very damp and hi humidity . Preventive rates of fungicide is holding up. The super turf will really show its true colors as it Matures a bit. Right now im focused on keeping fungus away
My DeWalt pressure washer does the same thing when running, couldn't figure out what the problem is. Look for air leak but nothing. I am gonna put an external unloader on to see if it stops surging.
Every-time you use your powerwasher always run water through your hose to let the air out and out of the wand handle to prevent air from getting in the system/ that piece you were pointing at is the pressure switch you can tighten it for more pressure or back it off for less pressure sometimes though there’s a pin at the end of that that’s suppose to move up n down sometimes taking it apart and just giving it a knock on a flat surface will make it move again
I have a ML1220 clone. If you relally want to take the slop out, add a 15 mm thrust bearing on the left side, and a 12 mm thrust bearing on right side. Then tighten the end nut to adjust. You may need to tap the lead screw further into the coupler at left end of lead screw to accomodate the thrust washers. I did this and the backlash is now minimal. This is the video i went by and followed... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-98b_QhNuyi4.htmlfeature=shared
Thanks for that vid. I have since installed some thrust bearings . I would like to at some point get rid of the steel collar and replace it with some small taper bearings. That end is as backlash free as I could get it. The “half” nut on this one is sloppy and there is no adjustment for the back lash.
Mine all correct but I dropped a Krieger competition Barrel in mine. Everything number match but so accurate, without being limited to low compression ammo form damaging the charging rod.
Just a note. The M1 Garand can safely fire any 36 ammo out there as far as the ability of the chamber to stand the pressure. What differs is the pressure at the gas point if you use a powder that’s too slow. You can have excessive gas pressure, which could put significant strain on the gas system and the operating rod. I’m not sure if it’s directly related but excessive port pressure could cause the bolt to slam into the heel of the receiver, producing heel cracks. For the most part unless a manufacturer is using some really slow powder and M1 Garand will safely shoot anything under 175 grain ammo. With the cost and limited supply a replacement parts shooting the correct ammo out of your M1 Garand is well advised.
I've shot a few matches in weather like that. As long as it kept snowing it was fun...when it stopped it seemed like it got about 40 degrees colder! LOL
Found all sorts if “good” stuff. Torn fuel valve seal, crud in the ports ( brass and aluminum shavings) someone attempted to drill out idle needle. Wish I could post pictures.
Shot one for the first time earlier this week. Was my uncle's shooter, he had another that is beautiful that was handed down to his son. Great video. Thanks for the information👍
If you cant find them , see if you can get the target number off the video. Seems harder to find now. I gave it a quick look and could not find the source where I got them.?
had to replay this 4 times,,,,looking for my hand god,,,hand god,,,,whats he talking about,,,OH YEAH, sorry,,,,he economizes by leaving the R at home,,,,,meaning handguaRd,,,,,ok,,go it now,,,,
PY-A-2015 Air Venturi Intermount, These don’t fit all of the crosman series rifles. It depends on barrel diameter. Hi filed off a little bit of the mound so it wouldn’t displace the spacer between the barrel on one rifle on another rifle. The barrel diameter was too small. I found shim stock thick enough to take up the space, although it doesn’t hold quite as well.
Never figured it out, it was a friday and customer wanted his van for the weekend. It drove fine and as far as I know he never came back for the issue. I have since left that shop
What is the bore of an M1 suppose to measure? I have been searching to buy one, although i have considered the CMP program i am 1st looking around the net? I see a lot of them ,in their ads saying the bore measures 3-75 or 5-53, so what should a brand new bore size be for an M1 so i can figure out which is tehe best bore size to look for? I plan to buy it to shoot. I dont want a wall hanger. So im not looking for some really historically correct one. So Im already considering ,buying one fo the cheaper ones that look nice with a shitty bore and replacing the barrel ? But if i knew what the original bore size was, coming out of the factory that would be very helpful? I have tried to look those numbers up several ways and cant seem to word it properly to get the info i want to come up?lol duh
No idea what those numbers are sounds more like barrel dates? Anyway your nominal specs are .300 at the lands and .308 at the grooves. The muzzle and throat erosion numbers are what the gauges read. Just be mindful mass produced barrels especially under war time pressure are not all perfect so a gauge reading of zero is not always expected and the tolerance from one manufacture to another between barrel and gauges can vary. The muzzle and throat erosion numbers are not a tell all of accuracy. I have a M1 that gauges 1 and 1 and cant hold a group with it. I have a rack grade thats 4-5 and close to failing field headspace gauge yet I can keep them in the black of a SR target at 200 yards with M2 ball
@2:07 According to directions, the 2nd tool you used (measures both ME and TE) - the muzzle measured a 2 - according to the supplied instructions it has 11 rings (Vice 10 for the TE), the first ring of the ME is 0 being New - the last being 10= Reject... Just an FYI
From the MFG instructions - - "To Measure muzzle wear: This gauge also has a calibrated front end with 11 rings that will allow you to measure the wear at the muzzle. The rings are in increments of .001 per ring. To measure the muzzle, read the rings directly with the first ring = zero wear, to the 11th ring back which would be maximum allowed wear or barrel reject.
@@brianbrave thanks for adding that. The point is more so of the “muzzle” test with a bullet and how little the bullet test is some what flawed. Since the ogive is different on different bullets.
im not exactly sure of your question The gauge in the video is a Muzzle wear gauge. pacifictoolandgauge.com/muzzle-erosion-gauges/19918-30-cal-muzzle-and-bore-size-check-gauge.html this tool can be used to hold the gas cylinder lock while removing/tighten gas plug www.garandgear.com/product/m1-garand-wrench/ Then there is the gauge to check your gas cylinder, ammogarand.com/m1-garand-gas-cylinder-gauge-go--nog1.html
I will start reloading this round soon and found this video to clarify some confusion I had. Thanks. I had noticed the shoulder looks different on the GP11 vs PPU
when the starter button fails , how the hell do you start these vehicles? my truck has the start button , always wondered what the solution is if the button fails.
