Bayne Custom Woodworking based in Mt. Juliet, Tennessee designs and builds furniture and high quality children’s toys in the Middle Tennessee area. From the beginning of a project design, to selecting the wood at one of our local mills to completion in the workshop, owner, Roger Bayne is there making every measure and cut.
Nice tips... I'm going to give this a try. I like that the extra thinned coats get to absorb into the wood and adhere better than the standard non-thinned poly. Tx!
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Question... I know you probably exclusively use oil based poly, but I wonder if the same can be done with Polycrylic by adding water to it in the same way... knowing I might have a bit more sanding between coats due to the possible grain raise it may cause with those first couple coats.
@csimet I understand you can add water but I would check with the manufacturer. To avoid the grain pop, After sanding you can water pop it first by gently spraying water on it, let it dray and resend it. Water popping works well
I've always used Blum hinges, but will have to give the Berta a look. They appear to be non-clip type like the Blum Blumotion soft-close, but allow easy three-way adjustment without having to loosen the mount screw like the Blum. I don't care for the removable clip type hinges, as they add too much width and get in the way many times when you want to add shelves, trays, pull-outs. I only use removable clip hinges in rare cases like corner cabinets with lazy susan bi-folds. Tip... if you do many doors, I think the Rockler JIG IT Deluxe Concealed Hinge Drilling System is a much better than the Kreg. It is made of mostly metal, permits you to setup for two or more holes per door with its rail system and has integrated clamps. I added a third drilling guide so I can easily do three hinges per door and ensure exact placement between multiple doors. Worth every penny it costs... ~$200 for the three clamp system I have.
So I am up in Canada and things are much more expensive for us to buy these gates and valves etc. So in regards to the G-700 does it have any suction on the outside of the machine that will suck in suspended air dust like a air purifier that hangs from the ceiling and help clean the air that’s in the shop .
@@watcherdude1330 No,, this machine is just for collecting dust from the tools via 4 or 6” flex hose or pipe. Solid pipe will always be a better solution because flex pipe reduces air flow.
I want to thank you for responding so quickly and also giving me your opinion and advice. I have the exact same unit as you accept mine is a KING INDUSTRIAL. I will be just running 4” line along the floor to my tools.
Hello and thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge on this unit. I am a retired man who just moved location and went from my 26x28 shop to my new 20’x20’ and this time 10’ ceiling. The shop is so small that I am jammed backed with the tools I can put into shop. Compared to my old shop . I have a 2 hp 1200 CFM King Industrial dust collector with the baffled filter. My question is, did you find that your shop itself was very dusty throughout with your previous HF unit? And has that gotten much better since the upgrade? I have a Laguna Fusion 2 table saw and it has the WORST dust containment of any table saw I have owned in my 58 yrs. But I just this week, started to make cedar flower boxes for our new home and I am disgusted with the amount of dust is on the floor settled after I have been out of shop for a couple hours. I also need to mention that I have 4 separate smaller dust filters running all the time that I’m in my shop and it’s like I have no dust collection at all. So after this very long description of my layout, do you think I would benefit from purchasing a G-700 ? I have to mention like someone already has but your approach, your pace in which you speak and just your overall personality is very nice and very easy to listen and understand. So a big 👍 to you .
Hello and thank you for the compliments. Yes I do believe that my shop is cleaner than it was before. One thing I would recommend is that you also check out the blast gates from Woodpecker tools www.woodpeck.com/fullthrottle-blast-gate.html they are worth the investment and sela very well. I also added over head dust collection to my table saw that vastly improved the air borne dust. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-S8ZjM9NNGfA.html I also run a WEN 3-Speed Remote-Controlled Air Filtration System (300/350/400 CFM) - I have 8' ceilings and this works great. SO with your 10' ceilings you should have no problem.
Hello Roger, this is a very good, no-nonsense, full of information video. I watched it multiple times and saved it in my reference videos. One question - if I have water based polyurethane can I use same method by substituting water for mineral spirits? In California it is tougher to find regular polyurethane these days. Thanks and looking forward to more content from you.
It has never messed up the sheen on satin but because I do not use high gloss I cannot attest to the results. I would try it lightly on a small section first
I have a beautiful tabletop that has been sitting outside under what was thought to be a weatherproof tarp. Now l need to find someone with that machine that levels/smooths plywood. Can u tell me what the name of this machine is and where to start looking for one?
@@BayneCustomWoodworkingl don't have all that gorgeous equipment. I need to know the name of the machine that you feed the wood through. A planer? Where would l go to find some that gas one. A lumber store? Special woodworking shop?
@@NaNana-ey6jk ah ok, I started with a Ridgid striaght knives planer that you can purchase at Home Depot. I now have a Grizzly helical that you can also buy at Home Depot.
Wish I would have watched this informative video a day sooner. First time on new steps and stain looked great. I applied the oil based poly after about 16 hrs and yellow appeared on every step. Ugh!
-@@BayneCustomWoodworking - Inside stairs. My first time trying it. Perhaps it was the humidity and the stain didn't dry properly? I also didn't mix the poly the way you instructed. Very disheartening. I did read afterwards that oil based has a greater propensity to yellow than water based. Not sure if i could have put water based poly on top of oil based stain if that would have made a difference. I'm just a novice. Just trying to contemplate my next step which would be to leave it, strip it and start over, or is it even possible to cover the yellow with additional stain after sanding?
Honestly oil based takes time to yellow, it should not happed immediately. I have been using it on tables for better than 30 years and the only time I see any kind of yellowing is when I put it directly onto a light wood without stain. What color stain are you using? You can put water based on top of oil based but my experience over more than 30 years is that oil based is much more durable than water based. Especially something that will be walked on. I put down flooring in an office for my wife 10 years ago and used an oil based floor polyurethane and it looks as good today as then. But it was put on without thinning and it was made for floors or stairs.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking - I used a dark gray...weathered grey stain from Varathane on oak wood.. It looked pretty good. Thank you for input and your informative video.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking - Update - I sanded a little and went with a gel stain using the same color and it covered the yellow. Now I'll let it sit for 2 days and decide if I want to to proceed with the poly.
I followed the instructions to the lett and the results were absolutely fabulous. I now must refinish two table leaves in a similar fashion. How long can I keep the misture from the final four coats to be used on the leaves?
Your Video was so good! It was very helpful to me as I am building a cabinet that is similar to the one in your video and was looking for some direction. Thank you very much for doing what you're doing. Its greatly appreciated.
Just finished a kitchen table with a brush and wish I had seen your video sooner. Definitely going to try your technique next time as I do have some brush strokes in my final coat. Appreciate you taking time to share your tips.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I couldn't stand it so I sanded down the table with 220 and used your technique and WOW...what a difference...EXACTLY what I was looking for. I don't think I'll ever pick up a brush again. Again thanks for taking time to share your experience with the rest of us.
@BayneCustomWoodworking l used your 2 to 1 ratio ( as for your polyurethane). Sticky 48hrs later, handled w/0000 steel wool. It's a pine carpenter's table from the hardware store. I don't know if this poor table will survive me!
@@NaNana-ey6jk I would sand it off and either use straight Tung oil applied lightly, let sit for 15-20 minutes and wipe it off. Then let it dry. Or re sand and start over with poly mix. You got this
Interesting dilemma- I can’t say that I have ever waited more than 24 hours between coats. But because it’s so easy to apply coats, when I used to work full time I would take 10 minutes to apply a coat before I left for work each day. Not sure if that is possible for you.
Thanks for the great video. I just built my first shaker style doors and now at the hinge part. I have a face frame cabinet. Am using a small door to practice.
Thanks for the informative video. I have been using a very similar technique for the last twenty-five years, also with excellent results. I start with a coat of gloss poly/thinner. If you add the second coat at around four hours, you don't have to sand. I start with three coats, then let it dry overnight. I lightly sand with 0000 Liberon steel wool then add another three coats of gloss poly/thinner. I let the project dry overnight, then lightly sand again. Finally, I add a topcoat of satin poly/thinner. I find I get better depth of clarity by just using the satin poly for the last coat.
Thanks for sharing your technique. If I understand correctly you also always use poly + thinner and not straight poly. Am I right? Also, will you please elaborate on the mixing ratios for poly + thinner? Or are they same as Roger's? Thanks - learning a lot from these videos and comments from experienced people like you and Roger.
@@ashokmoghe8035 You can cut the poly 50:50 with thinner (I like mineral spirits like Bayne does). You don’t have to change the ratio. The commercial wipe-on poly is just polyurethane diluted with thinner. I have also just brush coated with General Finishes Poly (undiluted) then rubbed it out fast to keep it from building up. That takes more skill, and you have to move fast. The bottom line is that poly is hard to keep from looking like you covered your masterpiece in plastic wrap if you don’t keep the layers very thin. Hope this helps.
I'm gonna buy the table and fence from Jessem and build my own stand! What do you think about that? I'm familiar with Jessem as I already have their plate mounted in a bench of which I'll keep. A mast r lift 2 I believe it's called! Three years now and love it but the table without a plate you have is the way to go. Thanks for posting.
Awesome video, Roger! I appreciate your ‘no nonsense’, to the point narrative style. So many videographers over bake the dialogue and frustrate the viewer who is trying to apply the knowledge and wisdom to their own projects. Your script is clear, concise and easy to follow without leading away somewhere else. I’m embarking on building new kitchen cabinets with face mounted shaker style doors for our home this summer, so I’m gather resources and know how at the moment. I‘ve bookmarked your tools, jigs, and Berta hinges on amazon, and after watching your hinge mounting and door install I am feeling better prepared for the project. Thanks!
I believe I show the materials I use at about the time 1:10. That said I use oil base poly and mineral spirits. I do not use water based poly very often so I can’t comment on that.
I ordered the 1/2” hinges from your link. I believe the instructions say to use a 1/16” self centering drill bit for the screws. The self centering bit set you suggest does not sure contain this size of bit.
Appreciate your presentation style. Just like listening to an old friend. Very personable. I am waiting on my electrician to wire my shop and I am off to the races with my new G700. Your info will be very useful. Thanks.
This is probably the best compliment I have ever received! Thank you! I am glad you found the information helpful. Let’s hope that electrician gets there soon. Let me know how it all works out for you.
Sounds great except for the alarm/suction stop. Would make a lot of sense to have two alarms, one as a warning and one when full. I wonder could one install some kind of sensor for this. Maybe a leaf switch near top of bucket
