Mr. Alan Moore, how can I ask a question about drag angle or trail in relation to the inclination of the telescope crossing the wheel axis parallel to the ground. What is the angle of the scope on the frame and forks? Do I need your email if possible? The Ariel Twin KH has great directional stability. That's why I want to know the angle in degrees accurately.
There was a good person who had been my Lathe Learning Instructor. He had a BSA and always rumbled the gear attached to the dynamo. He thought one of them was out of cycloid. But looking at his measurements, especially from the plate that held the dynamo welded to the frame, possibly this machine had an accident, warping the alignment of the gears, causing all the gearing problems.
Going back to remembering the excellent explanation of the engagement of all gears and the selector shaft of the Burman box. We always have to thank you your competent and honorable person. GRATEFUL!
Thank you, Mr Moore. Your explanation is excellent, in this always dificult piece (fot my understanding) of an engine. Not only I listened it till the end, but I shall repeat this video when I 'll repair my Matchless. Best regards!
This video shows the polishing of the metal before plating. The part being polished is plain steel there is no plating on it. This is the level of polish you need BEFORE plating to get a good base for the plating
Hi Alan, I'm just getting around to making some of these myself. Was there anything you would change if you were to do another set? Material thickness perhaps?
Hi Simon. No the 1mm was plenty strong enough and was quite easy to bend to the correct shape once softened. I'd probably tack weld a couple of nuts inside the bottom one as getting the bolts and nuts to line up after they are bent is a bit of a pig.
@@alanmoore6482 thanks for your reply. Do you still have your W/NG? I don't see you active on the forum so much these days, though a lot of people are using Facebook more. I found what I think is the material you used on eBay - was 450 mm enough for both springs?
@@alanmoore6482 another question if i may Alan - I have finished forming my springs and now need to make something in which to harden & temper them. Did you experience the shape change at all during the hardening/tempering process? I'm wondering if some of the bends might relax.
Air agitation is not a good idea as it produces aerosol bubbles at the surface which aren’t good for your health or anything nearby. Better off using a small submersible aquarium or pond pump, ideally an extra low voltage unit and something with a ceramic shaft
This was a really nice overview. I looked for buffing videos a year or two ago and found some but as far as I remember none were as succinct and informative as this.
@@alanmoore6482 question, if you have the gear box case apart, meaning both shafts and gears are removed, couldn’t you in theory just lay the case flat against the drill press surface for a 90° angle?
They seem pretty rugged especially the number of dogs. Japanese bikes change easily but sometimes aren't very durable. Thanks for showing. p.s Don't say the 'f' word, false neutral.
@@alanmoore6482 I had a G12 Matchless in the mid '60's and I'm now looking to do a G80/M18 ( mid ' 50's ). I'm starting from scratch so I'll be looking for a frame to begin with. Thanks again Alan.
Brilliant Alan, after the clutch activator boss snapped off my Red Hunter I was confused about putting it all back together after the repair, it was the last two minutes when you showed the punch marks on the gear selector quadrant and lay shaft gear! I would never have figured that the false neutral was there for a reason!!! Thank you!!!
That is a very long winded way of getting the offset, and makes a very simple job seem very complicated. The correct offset is when the rim is in line with the frame top tube. You dont need to measure it, you can clearly see it, and you tighten the spokes with the wheel in the frame with a pointer or clothes peg on the frame.
Hi Alan, thank you for this video. I’m facing an issue with BA gearbox. Somme time to time the gearbox locks as if two speeds were engaged simultaneously. I can’t understand how this is possible ? Do you know the answer ? Thank you.
HI Alan - superb video very helpful indeed. I have a 52 Vincent comet with a burman gearbox all gears select well but all except in 1st gear it seams to now create a judder ( no crunches or grinding noises) as though it is almost trying to jump out of gear. Is this likely to be a clutch issue or could it be something to do with the gearbox in particular the 'spring box' ?
Why do they crunch so much when changing gear. Is it because the grease drags the shafts around, or is it another problem. My first CP box was really sweet but was oil filled.
Both my BA on the VH and CP on the WNG are filled with semi fluid grease...basically a mixture of standard grade grease and SAE50 engine oil. They both have had an oil seal fitted on the output in place of the old style felt washer/s set up which helps keep it all inside the box. Both are quite on changing. Could be the grease but i think more likely the clutch isn't clearing fully?
