Looking for information? How about bashing? Cool builds? Well you'll find all that and more right here on Mike's dungeon. I do the best I can to relay easy to understand information about the RC hobby, everything from parts to tips and tricks to just good ol fashioned bashing. Maybe even a bit of racing sometimes.
So the first original versions of the V2 baja rey king and rhino had a awesome dynamite motor and esc. I have been bashing my first king very hard on a 16t pinion 2+years and only replaced 1 motor bearing with a ceramic. Don't even use a fan😂 . I now own 4 Baja Rey🤑😱 #1 upgrade on all bashers and especially this one are suspension travel limit straps made by HR. Man I wish someone told me when i bought mine😢. Next is a machined aluminum front gearbox and rear 3rd member (diff cover). Spray down your plastics with wd40 helps keep plastics from cracking -it's true😅
I didn't got notification of new video, just now saw thumpnail of video when scrolling videos. Yes, there's no point do videos or do any rc stuff if lost interest, but great to see you back doing videos 🙂👍 hope you have time to keep your track maintance and videos of track process 👍
Jang was the first to build a 1:8 buggy conversion out of a slash and give it the name "backslash"- and he originally also used a hcg chassis as at that time the lcg chassis did not exist yet.
Knk best hardware and stainless is not softer than steel its way harder maybe you have low quality hardware but if you have ever drilled stainless then drilled steel you would see stainless is much harder
Cool video mate,just about build mine from rovan 29cc up to 30.5cc with stuffer crank,head and crankcase.what kind of sealant did you use in bwtween the crankcase.
sounds great i got a rovan buggy and stuck a 6k clutch why folks like 10k still do not get it i guess its the fast launch but it does not move till its going high rpm to me when i try that was annoying in the turns all or nothing lol
Yea it's definitely not a truck you can go slow with. If you try you wind up burning up a clutch. But it launches way harder lol. You definitely have to learn to corner a little different with it but as somebody who just bashes I like it perfectly fine.
@@mikesdungeon8398 yea am the odd ball i like putting around and blasting i guess i wont it all lol if it was not so darn expensive i would cram electrics in mine .sweet running truck you have God bless
it's because of the idiotic "upgrade" mentality and lack of basic understanding what high rpm clutch does. All they see is big number and think it's better 😂 I also actively looked for low rpm clutch spring, like 5 or 6k can't remember it's much better. Probably stock zenoah.spring or some aftermarket. It's white. Once warmed starts moving almost immediately above idle
That's a tough question to answer lol I don't own an arrma 3s truck but I do see people posting about them on Facebook. The two common things I see on the 3s line is shredded diffs (the ring and pinion gears are plastic) and snapped chassis around the front of the truck. Both of these problems could be a common issue or it may just be people pushing the truck harder than it's designed to be pushed. As I said I don't own a 3s truck from Arma but I do own a Kraton 6s and that thing is a tank lol
Unfortunately I haven't ran them yet. Still waiting on electronics 😅. But I do know that everyone I asked recommended them to me when I was asking about stiffer springs for this build.
What happened to the body mounts you installed? I saw one on Facebook last night that a guy had used the proline body posts with the screw on caps to hold his body on his backslash.
So I've actually removed my body mounts completely. I'm using velcro strips down the side of the chassis and on the inside of the body to hold it to the truck. In order to do this you have to make sure that your body fits properly over your chassis or else the sides are going to look weird. (You'll have to tuck them in a little to stick the velcro together). And make sure to thoroughly clean the chassis and inside of the body of all dirt and finger grease before sticking the velcro to it. And I would recommend giving it at least 24 hours to fully adhere before you start driving it.
@@mikesdungeon8398 how’s it run? Is there much difference in the HCG and the LCG in handling? Trying to decide if I want to just convert mine (HCG) or get a donor car.
@@chrisroe5988 overall the lcg is going to handle better just simply because it has a lower center of gravity. The lcg chassis is also skinnier so the body you use (if you're going to use Velcro) needs to also be skinnier to fit the chassis. If you're just going to use standard body posts it's not as big of a deal. Just make sure the body will clear your electronics and battery. It took me quite a while to find a body that I liked for mine, at the end of the day I just joined a bunch of groups on Facebook and looked at others setups and used that to pick the body that would work well for my chassis and electronics. Unfortunately I can't speak on how mine runs just yet because I still haven't gotten electronics for it 😅. So many other things have been going on in life right now that I just haven't had the time or money. However the system I plan on putting in it is going to be 6s capable and 8th scale and I plan on running it on 4s. So it's going to run like a bat outta hell, the only question is will the drivetrain hold up 😂
Those would be stampede arm guards. I've had them on this truck for years lol. And before I switched to the new shocks I also had shock shaft guards as well. Which are these plastic guards that cover the shocks to prevent rocks from chipping the shock shaft, which will tear your o-rings and make your shocks leak. Both are great upgrades especially since the arm guards actually countersink the screws inside of them keeping rocks from damaging your screw heads.
@@mikesdungeon8398 thank you sir ! Love all the info you’re putting out. I’m currently looking at doing this very same thing. In the process of watching all the videos on this project.
Not on my truck they don't. They have zero modifications done to them and they fit perfectly. I even recently swapped them over to my new Traxxas heavy duty arms and they still fit fine. So far I've had them on stock slash 4x4 arms, RPM slash 4x4 arms, and now the Traxxas heavy duty arms. I've had zero problems with them, And NEVER broke one, they've never hit the chassis, at least not that I've noticed. However with the 17mm buggy wheels I have they do rub the inside of the rim and limit steering angle a bit, it's not terrible but its noticable. Keep in mind this is a slash 4x4, the two wheel drive is a completely different platform. But overall I have zero complaints about the arm guards, and they've been on this truck a LONG time. This is the original slash 4x4 that came with the 2pole brushless system, and they have been on it since I bought this truck new lol.
You should get that FS racing full metal jacket clutch from DDM. It's not that expensive, the spring is already installed, there is basically zero clutch dust, the spring should be thick enough where it shouldn't break, and it grabs awesome. It's working very well so far on my sport, which you can see on my channel. My favorite part is not clutch dust that stuff is absolutely disgusting. Also the piston stop tool has always worked great for me on rc engines, and the gp460, where the spark plug is directly in the middle of the cylinder, and not at an angle. Definitely however would not recommend using a piston stop on any engine with an angled spark plug. Before I had that tool I did do the rope trick with paracord. As long as you can see the exhaust port is closed, the rope trick always works well, you have nothing to be afraid of. Just make sure the exhaust port is closed that's all. Way better than sticking a screwdriver in the fins of the flywheel and breaking them off like I did one time, learned the hard way!
I use a rope and the rope isn't going to brake unless you are using a string , ggg A rope isn't going to brake pulling it out , like a 1/4 inch rope. Just stuff it in while the piston is down then turn the engine by hand until it stops.
this kit does not work on the two-wheel drive. I have however seen people who have made the two-wheel drive into a backslash. so it is possible, but this conversion kit does not work for a 2x4.
