I’m currently doing this job on my 2018 Cummins. I’m actually pulling the oil pan because it’s leaking as well. I got everything off besides the cam and timing case. I noticed allot of failure points where oil was leaking. After cleaning all the oil off the front of the engine and opening it up I also noticed water got behind the timing cover so the seal is definitely gone. Front main seal is leaking timing cover and case both leaking and oil pan leaking. I’m replacing front main seal cover and case seal oil pan gasket valve cover gasket and all plus I’ll be resetting valve lash as well. I’m trying to make sure I take care of everything because I’m on the road with this truck allot and it’s constantly running all day everyday. I was going through 3 courts of oil a week.
Yeah it seems like from factory they didn’t do a good job at sealing them, definitely like to leak all over. Definitely worth changing as many of the seals as you can if you are going to do the job
@@boosthuntergarage that is for sure. From what I’m seeing as I’m doing the jobs though is someone has already been in there before. I have noticed a bunch of signs someone has done it all before.
@@thebassreaper9326 crazy that it’s already leaking when someone has already been in there. I’m definitely a huge fan of using rtv where I can, whether that’s right or not.
Fluid will constantly flow through the cooler and won’t be temperature controlled. Not necessarily a bad thing just if you live in a cold climate the transmission won’t warm up as fast
I don’t know how many miles for sure when you should do it but it wouldn’t hurt to check it at that mileage. Or if you feel like it sounds more noisy/chattering in the top end
Thanks for sharing I just did the valve lash on my 2004.5 Cummins for the first time ever. When I started the truck up it was so much more quiet. Thanks for sharing these steps
Thanks! Taking the rail off isn’t too bad, biggest thing is just keeping everything clean. Doing this job on a deleted truck definitely goes way faster then a truck with emissions
My 18 3500 started leaking at about 40,000 miles and the dealership couldn’t find a leak and blamed it on a sloppy oil change that it did also have but it’s still leaking at the main seals at least and now back in the shop under warranty thankfully. Wish me luck. Glad it started leaking early.
I don’t think they work on ‘94s , you will have to look and see if it has a similar joint. I also have a video showing how you can test for what’s causing your truck to wander/death wobble
THE PROBLEM IS '''''''' YOUR ''Listening'' to too many people '''' these people only know a ''very limited'' Amount of information about the issue '''' IM a Expert '''' its 5 steering parts / Very Warn parts that are ''Loose fitting '''' THAT HAVE TOO BE REPLACED (5) TO BE PRECISE ''''' START LOOKING '''' your the mechanic .
EVERYBODY '''' thinks they know how to fix the steering on ram-2500-cummins '''' Including Me ... But the' 'Truth'' to it is ''' that there is a lot more than just ''ONE'' Issue '''' there are ''Several'' Component Issue's ''' there is like 4 or 5 components issue's '''' SO if your ''Just looking for 1 or 2 issue's you'll never fix it '''' There are ''''Several'''' Components 4 or 5 or 6 issues '''' just start looking for ''Worn'' parts '''' Parts that are ''Loose fitting parts '''' YOU KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR ''' If you do this you will solve the steering issue '''' Im giving you a ''BOOST'' in finding & fixing the Problem ''''' Its not as simple as replacing one item '''' You will find ''Several items that need to be ''Replaced'''' Start looking ''' YOU WILL FIX IT ''''''' .
@@boosthuntergarage got ya. Glowshift tells you to put the temp sensor there and I've done heard not to. Put my pressure gauge there and testing it today. Park 0. Moving about 68? Highway cruise 130 same max seems to be about 162. Gonna talk to my trans shop today hopefully and see where he says is best location. Previously had it on aftermarket trans to cooler
@@nickabel8279 yeah I don’t think you would want to put the temp sensor there but I could be wrong. I’ve only seen it put into the pan. I think my truck when driving (on the throttle) is around 100-130 and max is about 150-160. I’ll have to double check today. I’m curious what the transmission shop says about the location
@@boosthuntergarage talked to shop today. We both had to make it short so the quick answer was the test port was fine and if on throttle any amount you want to see about 70psi
Probably not the first turbo on it, you should pull intercooler and clean it out with grease release and water. Then if the water drips out of the holes, you know it doesn't need cleaned.
Yeah next time I have it out I’ll flush it out, I should have done it when I had it out before. I know it’s on its first turbo cause my father in law had the truck before me from new
Just ordered me some. I was told everything looks good in the front end, and we could try putting in a new gear box to see if that fixes it. Glad a came across your video.
Currently doing this now not sure if i should use rtv on the housing gaskrt or just install the gasket dry worried if i use rtv together with the gasket it wont seal
@@boosthuntergarage ya looking at the oem procedure it doesn't show to use rtv on the gasket only were the pan meets the housing I'll probably just use some permatex tac spray to hold it in place
By chance , do you happen to know why my new harness came with a 2amp trigger lead fuse ? My old one burnt up and didn’t have one but new one I bought said it’ll be universal? I’m trying to hook it up to fuses in fuse box but pump just wants to turn on and stay on the whole time . Any help would be appreciated!!! I got a 05 5.9 Cummins
I’m not too sure, sorry electrical is definitely my weak point. If I’m thinking about it right you shouldn’t have to hook up anything in the fuse box. The trigger to kick it on and off should be coming from the connector on the top of the fuel tank. Sorry not much help with electrical
@22:16 - I believe you screwed up NOT putting the timing cover seal on before putting the cover on. By putting it on first you better-center the crank-hole with the seal. Otherwise with the cover already bolted down it could be constantly pulling the seal to one side of the crank.
@@boosthuntergarage Thanks! How much did you end up putting in? Im replacing my entire system like you did this weekend on my '06 and wondering how much to pick up at the parts store.
@@boosthuntergarage i hope so for your sake also lol We do use the truck for plowing but we didn't have enough snow these past 2 years to make sense why these would go out as early as they did.
FANTASTIC VIDEO. I have a 2011 Ram 3500 diesel Mega Cab with 98,000 miles. Just today, for first time ever, it developed a wobble, not yet a death wobble, which I have experienced before on a Jeep Wrangler, but out the blue = I drove it yesterday without it, this morning a wobble right about 35 to 40 MPH, but I can sense it less also at lower speeds.
Thanks! I’ve been lucky and never experienced full on death wobble, just the wandering and a little shaky. Hopefully this video will help you figure out what’s causing it on your truck
Sorry I misspoke on that, if you have a better quality cooler it will have a thermostat on it and in that case you would want the supply from the transmission going into that and the return back to the transmission coming from the other. Mine was a cheap cooler which I regret buying
@@boosthuntergarage I bought the mishimoto, so right now I have the front of the transmission line (hot line) on the top port, and the back of the transmission on the bottom port. It’s wierd tho I’m seeing high temps still, no better than stock
Ha! I finally got around to doing this. I have an issue. I measured with a caliper and counted my turns backing the nut out. Guess what. no washer under the nut. So I am guessing I need to subtract the thickness of the washer off of my caliper measurement? But now how tight do I put the new nut on? Stuck!
curious question. I have this exact issue with my 2008 ram 1500 5.7. It has to much play to the right when im driving. Does this issue cause it to also pull to the right? Cause thats also something im experiencing. Just FYI. Ive already changed out my entire front entire from control arms to sway link bars to tie rods etc. And Ive done two alignments. Im just now learning about the steering column stuff and was curious if thats whats possible causing my pull.
I’ll start off by saying I’m not a professional mechanic but I would think the looseness in the steering column wouldn’t make it consistently pull to the right. It would be sloppy both ways but wouldn’t hurt to try. The only thing I can think of if you have already changed all the front end parts and had alignments would be the condition of your tires. I know if one is worn more then others it will cause it to pull. But getting the slop out of the steering column definitely wouldn’t hurt.
Check your front brakes after driving for awhile. I had my brake calipers hanging up due to deteriorating brake lines. If your right side is hotter than the left that’s a good sign that the caliper is dragging.
Doing this right now to my 08 6.7…along with the rear main seal, and new oil pan…on the ground with no hoists…yeah I know…nightmare lol my bolts stripped too lol of course… but quick question for you about putting that new pinion seal and yoke back in. I’ve heard that you’re NOT supposed to do anything to that diff without re-crushing the sleeve….i however don’t agree with this because you’re not doing anything other than replacing a seal…but I keep hearing different opinions. What is your take on that? And did you have any issues with this pinion seal again since you did it?
I mean definitely the proper way would be to take it fully apart to do it but I haven’t had any issues with it since. Hasn’t started leaking again. I think as long as you put it back on the same depth it was, it shouldn’t matter about the crush sleeve. By all means I’m not a professional mechanic, I just learn as I go
