With a portfolio of the world's leading road cycling and mountain biking brands, Saddleback is the UK home of performance cycling.
Founded in 2004 and run by a passionate team of riders, we bring you a sneak peak into the finest cycling products. We're proud to be the UK's official source of Castelli, Chris King, ENVE, HJC, Moots Cycles, PUSH, Pivot, Sidi, Silca, Sportful, Stages, Troy Lee Designs and Wolf Tooth.
Colbrelli wasn't wearing white shoes while winning PR. Van der Poel took off his shoe covers and had shiny white shoes underneath. (Unfortunately, he didn't win)
Two questions: 1. When hammering out the rotor side hub shell bearing do you ever notice the white inner seal (PHB829 - #5) gets two or sometimes one cut from the split ring on the hub tool? 2. Similar to the first question, when hammering out the rotor side hub shell bearing do you ever notice the inner race of the bearing get wedged causing the bearing not to spin? This requires me to press the inner race back into place. I've done a full disassembly of my Gen 3 ISO 148mm rear hub three times now and every time both the white seal is damaged and the bearing inner race wedges itself requiring me to unjam it.
1.)Yes, the white seal can sometimes be damaged when removing the bearing. We’d always recommend replacing it if there's any damage - these are replaced, along with all the seals and snap rings, with every service. If you need any of these spares, give our sales team a call and they will be able to help you. 2.)Sometimes the inner race can be slightly dislodged or wedged within the bearing after removal, most commonly the non-drive ISO bearing. This is easily pressed back together carefully with your fingers and thumb, or the face of the hammer on a flat surface. This doesn’t damage the bearing at all.
The issue is the bike industry. The standards change so frequently that within 5-7 years your components are no longer compatible with anything. I have Chris king 1 1/8 headsets, iso hubs (100mm*20, 135mm *10) and they are all in landfill as they aren't compatible with any thing and there's no upgrade path for these old components. So great in theory, but Chris king made the t47 bottom bracket standard when we already had press fit, BSA, and the host of others so he's adding to the waste
It really depends how often you ride them and in what conditions. We would suggest a full service once a year as a minimum. Because you don't need to replace the bearing etc, it is an inexpensive job. If ridden a often, then a clean up mid way through the year (not full strip down) is worth it.
One thing i noticed is that the Progetto X2 seems to fit better under the sitbones compared to the Kiss Air. Kiss air chammy is way to high on the back while the progetto X2 fits perfectly covering the the saddle with the thickest part where it should be. anyone experienced the same?
Thank you for commenting! Our experience is that this is very dependant on the bibshort/tight as the pads will feel like they sit differently on different models.
This video is actually better than the one that Enve put out themselves. They failed to mention how important it is to make sure the tape is pressed all the way down into the channel to ensure a good seal. They also failed to mention how important it is to apply enough pressure on the rubber inside of the valve as you tighten the nut to get a good seal. I like your Allen key trick. I'm on my 2nd attempt to retape and get a proper seal without air and sealant leaking through the valve opening on the spoke side of the wheel. Wish I had watched this video first! I actually noticed that the spoke and valve holes are drilled slightly off center of the deepest portion of the rim, which makes it even harder to get the proper seal with the valve. Wondering if maybe that is a manufacturing defect..
Thanks for the question! We only suggest the recommended Chris King oil and grease as the tolerances are so tight in the hubs that the wrong ones can cause the hub to not work/engage properly. Hope that helps.
Hi! Thanks for your comment. Best way is when the dials are loose, pull the tongue velcro to be in-line with the velcro on the main shoe. This will line up the tongue to sit properly on the top of your foot. Then tighten the dials to secure. Hope this helps!
I find the small very neat - I wouldn't want to put on any weight. But the medium I think would be too baggy. I notice in this video, the fit is quite loose, which negates the aero gains.
I have all of them (gabba, perfetto and the convertible) and would say that the differences are very tiny. Fit-wise I would actually claim that they are the same.
i wanted to point out a couple things maybe add in the tool part your using for easier reference like adapter a, b, c , d ,e and so on as well as color of split ring....
I have the SE, they're just as protective, and imo, slightly more comfortable, at around half the price. As he mentioned, they're both 5 star VT rated. As far VT safety ranking, out of 224 helmets tested, the Flow line SE is at #92, the A3 is at #47, and the regular Flow line is at #38
I have both Perfetto and Perfetto Max. This combo just covers 99% of the cold rides. I do own a pair of Castelli CW 6.1 Unlimited gloves for MTB/gravel rides, which also do their thing for a cold start in spring autumn on road bike.
I use the Aero RC for mild winter riding (down to 5° C). When it gets colder than that, I pull out my Sorpasso. Best combination you could get to get through the winters in Flanders. I do have a Sorpasso Wind version for worst-case scenario, but have only used it a few times for really cold commute rides and some freezing-start group rides. BE AWARE: Once you start using the Progretto chamois, you don't want anything else!
Thanks for the comment! 100% agree on the use of the bib tights. I've also got a pair of the wind resistant Sorpasso's and usually only use them 1 time per winter.
Thanks for the question! Great to hear you're loving the Alpha Flight. No, stick to the same size on the Doppio. The pattern is slightly different to allow for more room.
Thanks for the question! The Fiandre Pro has a more aero cut due to the fabric being 4 way stretch. it is made from. It fits very much like an aero summer jersey. The other difference is that the Fiandre Pro is more water resistant, however the sacrifice is that it doesn't breathe as well as the Perfetto so you will become warmer when putting in efforts. Hope that helps!
Hi! Sorry to hear you're struggling. We are the UK distro so are unable to help unfortunately. If you haven't already, please reach out to Sidi US via cycling.sidisport.us/?Referral_Sidi&Footer&Direct
Hi! Thanks for the question. Honestly that's a very tough one to answer! I would say that the Fiandre Light is lighter than the Perfetto Light so more suitable for warmer conditions. However, the Fiandre Light Jacket is an incredible thin and high stretch long sleeve
