Established in 2007, Refinish Network is your go-to platform for top-tier advice on repair and refinish projects. We specialize in creating detailed video tutorials that simplify complex tasks. Our founder, Justin Jimmo, is a seasoned Paint Technician, overseeing every aspect of production. With 15+ years of industry experience, Justin's expertise lies in automotive coatings. Currently, he works with collision repair centers, offering invaluable training and support. At Refinish Network, we strive to share our wealth of knowledge, helping you perfect your projects with ease
Nice video, got some similar bits to do on my car this week. All my paints have finally arrived and just waiting for one of those spray handles. Cheers.
Thank you for such a great video. Yesterday, I did the same thing with my Honda Accord. I was delighted with the results I achieved with the color-based spray, but I went and used the same clear coat you used in your video. I got cloudy, - dull results, and I don't know why or how to fix it and avoid it happening again.
..Aaaannnd, stop the clock..!! ..and the 1st prize for the fastest respray EVER goes to the man in the grey suit, and although very good, it could be incredabily good if just a tad slower..!!
Hey, how are you? I’m doing rain guards, and a spoiler kit, that all came black in color. I scuffed everything up with a maroon scuff pad, cleaned with an IPA wipe down, then added adhesion promoter, before I used 2k primer. I just ordered that trigger handle for better control, and a finger that doesn’t feel like it wants to fall off? LOL next is ground coat, then Midcoat, then I’m using the 2K bladder clear on everything. Can’t wait to see the results? It’s my first time doing this, and yes, I got the exact paint code, put into spray cans. Wish me luck 👍 so far, so good!
Is there a maximum duration between any of the different coats, could apply primer and base say a day or two apart, and clear a day or two after base ?
@@andrelawrence9644 I know it’s 12 years old I rebuilt it every year and I can lay glass with it. I get 2 new dv1 guns and I’m using the Tekna I’m just old and set in my ways 😂
One thing to mention. A proper spray gun works at a much higher pressure, typically about 65 psi. This means that the paint used in a spray gun is much 'thicker' (by this I mean a higher viscosity). A spray can runs at a MUCH lower pressure and because of this the paint in the spray can is MUCH thinner! This in turn means that each layer of paint you apply from a spray can in each pass of the panel is much thinner than you would get from a proper spray gun.None of this is a problem UNLESS you get a rough from using a spray can (either on the base or clear coat layer(s) which is usually called Orange peel. If you do get a rough Finish using a spray can and need to flat & and polish it you need to apply AT LEAST 4 COATS of paint/clear coat to make sure you don't break through to the base coat (if you are using base & clear) or through to the original paint surface (If you are just using a base coat with no clear coat) FYI I used to be a panel beater/ vehicle sprayer so I know what I'm talking about
I have an issue with silvers. Even though I have a good match I still see that the section of the panel I painted is not as sparkly not as metallic as the factory. under certain angle you can see the "flatness" in my paint. anybody has a suggestion on gun size , tip size, nozzle size, pressure or whatever I can do to help my issue greatly appreciate it thank you
I'm only Apprentice & can't decide on a clear gun to use. I have a DV1 with C2+ cap & prolite with te20, te10 & te110 cap. Can't make up my mind with what to use...
My 2002 V6 Camry had completely lifted clear coat on top and I wanted to fix the car cheap. Have done "real" auto painting once or twice with the proper spray gun etc. so I believed I could probably do as well as the spray can videos show here on YT (HA!) Here's what I'd tell myself before I started if I'd known: 1. The money you save from spray cans vs. renting or even buying a proper compressor (>20 gallon tank, paint gun, hose, clear coat and paint - on ebay they even sell factory colors pre-mixed just shake and spray, they are $100 - 200 a gallon) will not turn out to be as much money as you might think it should be! So I now think for painting anything larger than one door or fender you ought to spend the money for the proper tools and supplies! Because spray cans are incredibly limiting and you will probably not be happy with the results. 2. I was having lots of trouble trying to clear coat to achieve the glossy finish it was supposed to have. Until I saw one post from a fellow named Brad Angrove: "ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TfNq8DEbT60.html" who explained one of the best ways to apply rattle can clear coat. First, you need to use the expensive kind of rattle can clear "Clear glamor", its full name "USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear" from 2k paints. It is $20 a can but worth it since it is as close to real clear coat as you are going to get out of a spray can. The can is a mix of hardener and clear coat that is sealed until you want to use it. Then you use the red button that comes with it, to press on to a valve on the bottom of the can right before you paint. Then you press HARD on that button to break the "bladder" of hardener inside the can so the clear coat can mix with it. Now you shake it up so long it feels like your arm will fall off you are ready to apply it over your base coat. But the main thing he did was he used TWO CANS AT ONCE to spray the clear coat at the same time! I'd tried a couple brands of clear coat but no matter what I used, I had very poor results, i.e. small glossy patches of clear coat with the rest of the surface without gloss. BUT according to the video, you need to use two cans at once just to get the right amount of clear coat coverage. At first I seriously thought he was joking about spraying w two cans at once, but from watching the rest of the video realized he was NOT joking. To do it you hold the spray cans together (I taped two cans together with masking tape) start your sweep, and push down the nozzle on both cans at once. Doing this makes a bigger fan pattern and also provides the right volume of clear - two cans together provides more paint coverage than one can alone can put down. So after starting over once or twice, I did it his way, and I noticed instant improvement. Spray w the cans around 6" away (stretch out your hand, now stretch your fingers apart, and that is approximately the correct distance from the surface, i.e. distance between thumb tip and pinky). I used about 80% overlap for each pass, which might seem too heavy especially using two cans at once, but it turned out to be just right, you would not want to overlap any less than this. And I made a point to make my passes only for sections less than two feet long; then drop down below that to make the next pass underneath that one. When I tried to lay down the clear coat using one long stroke edge to edge, I realized later, making long passes took too much time and let the paint start to flash off too soon, and even with 80% overlap the clear coat could not "melt" into the previous pass and this was what was causing the "tiger stripes" in the finish! So now after hundreds of dollars spent on sandpaper, primer, base paint, clear coat, more clear coat after that, masking paper and tape, plus polish etc. I will never try doing that ever again! I will spend $300 for at least a 25 gallon compressor plus a spray gun and gallon of paint - and never again will I try using rattle cans for painting anything larger than a trunk lid!
Do you still check your videos? I just did a tailgate and the clear didn't come out well. Didn't shine up. Can I get it to shine up by polishing/buffing it out?
Good 👍 video thanks for sharing that I have just painted my ford focus mk3 front bumper and it's got a little bit of dirt in can I used a DA sander with 1500 and 2000 I have some G3 compound plus I havd a little clear coat paint run how do I get it out
I didn't realize how old this video is, but here is a question anyway. You mentioned a "sanding paste" in conjunction with a gray scuff pad to scuff up the original paint on the non-repaired fender to prep for clear coat. It is not in your materials list and I cant find it on the internet, What is sanding paste and where can I find it. By the way, your results are remarkable for rattle can paints.
For the love of Christ compels us, because we judge thus: that if One died for all, then all died; 15 and He died for all, that those who live should live no longer for themselves, but for Him who died for them and rose again. 16 Therefore, from now on, we regard no one according to the flesh. Even though we have known Christ according to the flesh, yet now we know Him thus no longer. 17 Therefore, if anyone is in Christ, he is a new creation; old things have passed away; behold, all things have become new. 18 Now all things are of God, who has reconciled us to Himself through Jesus Christ, and has given us the ministry of reconciliation, 19 that is, that God was in Christ reconciling the world to Himself, not imputing their trespasses to them, and has committed to us the word of reconciliation. 20 Now then, we are ambassadors for Christ, as though God were pleading through us: we implore you on Christ’s behalf, be reconciled to God. 21 For He made Him who knew no sin to be sin for us, that we might become the righteousness of God in Him. 2 Corinthians 5:14-21
