Thank you for posting this. Not a whole lot of info on the tavor trigger pack. Perhaps you could do a new video that captures the parts better 8:00 ? Those parts would be very helpful
Also,... Nice job with the info and testing results. I will test the chambering with my ammo before.thr range.... What i kept thinking about was powder charges available in 32acp ammo at the time of gun production. Not sure how to confirm this, but what if 2.2 grains was the max charge in the ammo at that time @ 1970???... Could that be possible.? Thanks for the video...
Hi,.. I had the same type of casing failure with a 9mm beretta 92fs. I was.sure it was the gun.at.first.also.... But came to realize the ammo was inferior.
I just installed these in my Fiero, and the way you have it wired up does not work as it is supposed to. Also if it would work as it was supposed to it would be a safety hazard as all the power for the window motors would be drawn from the thin unfused Red wire. There are 2 relays in each module, each relay has 3 wires, +12v, ground, and output. The relays are switched by power applied to the thin wires, so that one relay is connecting output to ground and one is connecting output to +12v, then the output from each relay is sent to the motor, one positive, one negative, that is how it can be switched in two directions. The way the video has it wired up, the switch output is wired to the relay ground, and the motor input is wired to relay output, as the relays are switched to ground when it is unpowered, the window switch is still directly controlling the motors, meaning the only difference between original and this installation is an extra few feet of wire. This is how it should be done. Thick wires; purple/black to +12v, white/black and brown/black to ground, blue/black and green/black to window motor. Thin wires; red to +12v, green and blue to window switch outputs. With it wired this way, each relay has a fused power and ground source to pass on to the window motor, and the relay is triggered via the thin wires by the original window switch. When one thin wire receives power, it turns on one relay, changing its output from ground to +12v while the second unpowered relay is resting at ground, when the other thin wire is powered, the second relay switches from ground to +12v, while the first relay is resting at ground, that way the two output wires reverse polarity, to lower and raise the window. Once installed if window goes down when you press up, and up when pressing down, simply reverse the thin green and blue wires on the window switch.
Thank you so much for sharing this tip! The guy in the Pro shop tried every tool he had for the various shoes they sell but none of them worked. This tip worked. I had a bit of a fight though but I found that prising the edges up a bit with a screwdriver first made it easier to get a grip of it with the wire nippers. I need a day or so for my hand to recover from pushing the nippers in far enough to get a grip
Hey man just wanted to give you a shoutout on that Tacoma steering clunk fix video you did. It was super helpful and solved my problem on my 2008 Tacoma. Thank you so much for the simple solution that didn’t cost me a ton of money.
What the hell was your secret for turning this down on a drill press? At the rate it's going with my file and the press at the highest speed, it would take approximately ten years to turn it down to a useful diameter.
LOl. it takes time depending on how sharp your file is and how fast your drill turns the stud. It took a while for me to grind my stud down too. Just apply steady pressure and let the drill press do the work. Of course, if your stud is made of grade 8 steel, you'll be at it for a very long time.
I've heard gunned on high to slowly sweat it out, nope, steamed it, nope, boiling water. Nope. Oven cleaner yes, but most likely damages stock, does not wash out with water. All the above work a little the oven cleaner alot, but this method is the safest and I would say least damaging to the stock. Wish they dipped all those old riffles in boiling linseed oil instead
I have an 05 Tacoma 5 lugger. Base model. And I have a shaking under my steering wheel area. So I’m going to definitely take a look and I think the sound I’m having is coming from this area for sure. I thought it was a bearing. And it was not. The sound is still there. And I think it’s my steering rack or linkage like you mentioned.
THANK YOU!!! I thought I'd seriously screwed up. I fought with that thing and upped the ante on my swear usage until I'd had enough and figured that someone HAD to have made a video about this. After watching this, I had my X95 back together in a matter of minutes. Again, thank you!
Thanks for the video. Did you ever get it completely figured out? (Is your range open again, I hope?) I also reload 32ACP. I currently use Berrys 71 grain plated bullets. For powder I use Hodgdon Universal. The range between start and max loads is minuscule: 2.2 to 2.4 grains if memory serves me. I have not yet shot my reloads through an M70 because I am waiting for my RGUNS order to reach my local FFL. One of the first things I check before starting an actual run of reloading is the plunk test. Someone above mentioned that 32ACP headspaces on the case mouth, I believe. I will also check that by inserting a resized case with no bullet in it. What is interesting is that of the two brands of 32ACP brass that I have from shooting factory ammo, they have different case lengths, around 0.100” difference if I remember correctly. One is Aguila and the other is Fiocchi. When I was first reloading 32ACP, I would only use one brand of case per run because of that. I don’t remember hearing what your OAL was, by the way. I could see instantly that it was too long for the chamber, as you stated. When necessary, I will also insert a given bullet further into the case, but with caution, of course. I do the math and measure the powder charge height (on a case standing up on the bench) against the depth of the bullet into the case. I do this because I want to make sure that the powder is not compressed, as that, beyond just inserting a bullet deeper, is what really increases case pressure, and could be quite dangerous. For that reason, you may want to consider a denser powder: a couple people recommended Red Dot above. As I said, I use Hodgdon Universal. So if you see this comment and have a moment, I would definitely be interested in hearing where you are at with reloading for the M70. And beyond the nuances of reloading 32ACP, someone above mentioned replacing that recoil spring, which certainly affects feeding issues. Thanks again for the detailed video!
I guess I’ve just been lucky but I have never had to go to that extent to remove any spikes. Of course ideally you don’t leave them in so long that they become difficult to remove. But I just changed out the spikes on a pair of Foot Joys where they were worn completely down to the sole of the shoe, but still was able to remove them with the spike wrench. I did have to clean the dirt out of the holes, but otherwise they were pretty easy to remove. Another video I watched suggested using a drill with a drill bit the same size as the holes.
Good on you man ! Before I changed the sway bar bushings , changed drag link . The sound still continues . I will try this one if it applies to mine . I checked the steering shaft there is a bit of shake there although the universal joint looks good . I am excited to try this one ! Thanks any way !
Is it something that can cause wandering in the steering as well..I'm having that on my 08 Example ..having to correct steer left to right alot driving down a straight road very annoying
My problem is that the Fast Twist recesses are all loose between the interlayers of the sole of the shoes. You have difficulty removing the cleats because the housings rotate with the cleat. Similar when you you screw them back in. I've tried an adhesive called Stormsure which is great for most shoe repairs where flexibility and waterproofness needs to be maintained but it doesn't work with torsion. I dribbled the glue around the edges of the Fast Twist housings and let it cure. When I tried to screw the cleats back, even only starting them by hand and a quarter turn to secure, the adhesive failed. I'm looking for a Plan B. If anyone can come up with anything I'd be interested.
I'm having this same issue with 3 of my cleats. The clear receptacle is spinning in the shoe. Were you able to figure out a fix to make it stay and not spin? I have one other issue. My first cleat was stuck so I used a screwdriver to try and separate but accidentally removed the entire receptacle. Now I can't put it back into the shoe sole. It's almost like trying to put a tire on a wheel
Yea, anytime you start seeing Guppy Bellies on your cases your getting about as hot as you want to. Glocks have a lot of unsupported chamber and they will tell you right away when your up as hot as you can go. I didn't know it was a problem in the .32 being a rather low powered round anyway. And yes, shoving the bullet to far into the case will raise the heck out of pressure. You have to back way off on the powder when you do that. My question would be Does that model 70 guppy belly factory load too? If someone did monkey with that chamber your next plan is to find a new barrel. Written before you got around to mentioning Factory Ammo. I believe it would be prudent to try that First.
