We are on a mission to demystify lighting aspects one bulb, one fixture at a time. We specialize in selling Track Lighting, Recessed Lighting, Low Voltage Outdoor Lighting as well as low voltage Transformers and LED Drivers. Come see the difference!
Your warning label should be sticked on the outside. One needs that information when replacing a fail tube - bets are high that he will not open the case. (OK, it's ugly. But better than sorry.)
Thank you for the feedback and yes we are aware of our blunder in the video. Putting the label in a place that is easily visible is highly recommended 🙂
You can see our video here to give you an idea on how to convert to LED ⬇ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nskn5ion6qI.html You won't need the c-clips / torsion spring clips since your recessed can already has it. You can see how a LED retrofit trim using torsion springs can be installed. If you fill out this form we can help you with finding the best LED retrofit trim for your lighting needs ⬇ www.totalrecessedlighting.com/convert-your-recessed-downlight-to-led.html Have a blessed day!
Genius on the screwdriver!!! I'm retired and trying to do my own small home repair. I just changed out 25 of these landscape bulbs - too bad i didn't see this before i started this replacement effort. I'm going to make that screwdriver right now and put it in the toolbox!
Made a terrible mistake one time when I wired a set for a T8 LED Bulb. I was using spare non-shunted tombstones. I did not know that the LED bulb I got is double ended and that the prongs on each end of a double ended bulb are shunted internally. Hooked both wires to each side of a non-shunted tombstone, plugged in the bulb, and turned on the power and got a blue bang at the end of the bulb that connects to the tombstone I just wired. I knew then and there I screwed up LOL. Some research into retrofit T8 LED bulbs, a new bulb and help from my father we got it wired properly for the double ended LED bulbs that are common in our country. The double ended ones is a lot more common due to them being marketed as drop in replacements for T8/T12 fluorescent bulbs after removing the starter plug.
What are the advantages of switching these to led? Didn’t know they made leds like this. Thought I would have to put in new fixtures for the office and garage.
Good video. I just drilled pilot holes directly into the can so I wouldn't have to use the L attachment (or whatever it's called). I then used extension on drill bit to drill clips in. I did, however, encounter a big issue, which caused me to give up - for now. The cans in the room I'm attempting to install the retrofit lights are not mounted. They simply float and move around so even though I was able to attach the clips and get the light's springs on, when I attempted to push the light up into the can, the can moved such that I couldn't get the light all the way up into the can and flush against the drop ceiling. Extremely frustrating. Imagine I'll have to forgo the Edison-style screw-in retrofit and start fresh with clips. If any thoughts, I'm all ears!
Thank you and glad it was a helpful video for you. I am sorry to hear that your retrofit project has thrown you a curve ball. Here is a form that we have and if your can is not shown you can send us photos of it and we might be able to find a solution ⬇ www.totalrecessedlighting.com/convert-your-recessed-downlight-to-led.html
The universal T8 LED tube used in the video will work with both shunted and non-shunted tombstones. What's more important is how the fixture is wired. Always follow the wiring diagram when doing any retrofitting and installation.
There are many variables in why track lighting may not work. Always check to make sure there's power to the track lighting system. Double check your light source, lamp / light bulb, to make sure it works. Double check your track light fixture to make sure it works. Make sure the track is not spread apart and that the track fixture is making contact with the internal power track buss bars are some easy ways to troubleshoot lighting problems 🙂
Old Malibu 200w unit, the clock display comes on and I hear a hum when I turn it to on but I don’t detect any voltage coming from wires with a 12-1000~ v Klein mini detector. Could this be the battery issue or is my detector not sensitive enough?
Hard to know for sure but it could be the battery is failing or the magnetic transformer itself is failing as they do last a long time but not forever. If you know of another 12volt device you know works you can test your detector on that device to help you pin point if your detector is not sensitive enough. Or purchase a multi-meter from your local home improvement center and test with that. Since these do produce 12volt and your lights are not coming on, I am assuming, and your detector is not sensing any voltage I would say your transformer is no long working properly. We have a few options if you find you need a new transformer here ⬇ www.totaloutdoorlighting.com/emcod-esl200w-200watt-12-15volt-led-ac-landscape-outdoor-transformer-stainless-steel-with-mechanical-timer-photo-eye.html www.totaloutdoorlighting.com/emcod-epc200w-200watt-12-15volt-led-ac-landscape-outdoor-transformer-with-mechanical-timer-photo-eye.html
We have a form here that can help you with your fluorescent to LED conversion ⬇ www.totalbulklighting.com/fast-fluorescent-to-led-t8-conversion-tool.html
WARNING: I ordered their 100w unit and the photo-eye does not work. The timer trippers work great, but there is no Dusk-2-Dawn feature using just the photo-eye.
I am sorry to hear you are having issues with the photo-eye. Please contact us regarding this issue and we can help in resolving problems you are having with the transformer ⬇ www.totaloutdoorlighting.com/contacts/
I don't know if you are a reseller or product designer, but there's literally no reason those should not be captured screws. If they're so small, you won't find them on the floor, you're not doing the customer a favor by reducing the price for the lack of basic engineering that's existed for a very long time.
We are an online reseller and do our best to help improve the products we sell with the manufactures but they don't always implement our suggestions. Thank you for your feedback 🙂
Mainly for subjective reasons like aesthetics of a trim to match the design of the space, utilizing a narrow beam spread for accent lighting, to meet energy requirements . . . etc 🙂
In #20, you say, "You're going to screw the adapter into the socket, leave it hanging where it is" but then talk about adding a socket plate. Is it necessary to add the socket plate, or can the socket just remain hanging in there, likely resting on top of my new LED eyeball fixture? Thanks!
In many cases the socket can attach to the back of the eyeball trim unless its an all in one LED unit that doesn't have this option. I would check with your local code or licensed electrician on allowing the socket to rest on the trim fixture if the socket can not connect directly into the trim. We have found in many cases that its ok but always check 🙂
Hi, I just had to tell you how much I admire your wonderful presentation! Your video photography, editing and detailed explanations make this a wonderfully informative video tool. It impressed me so much that I had to go "Sign in "to leave this comment and retrieve my password etc. GREAT JOB!
I've got 2 ballasts. So on the left there is 2 red, 2 yellow, and 2 blue. On the right i have the same but the hot and nuetral as well. Blue and red wires arent ling enough to put together
My bulbs did not come with a warning sticker, so i took a sharpie and marked it as "no ballast! Plus right, negative left" on the wiring cover. Putting this information inside with the wiring is not helpful years from now...
Glad to hear you were able to label you light fixture as retrofitted. Yes, it was a blunder on our part to put the sticker on the inside. We do try to address the label location in the video description . . . 🙂
@@Totallightingsupply The different types replacement LEF bulbs are what I see as a problem. I grabbed my fist set that require NO wiring change. Easy, but sill have a ballast using energy. The next two fixtures I got "direct wire" bulbs. More work but can never go back to the old type tubes. So, now I am going back to label everything. They also have bulbs that work with ballast or direct wire. These would be great for when you just want to replace a burned out LED tube and don't know how it was wireed,
LED is not only so blinding to the eye . It creates ugly hospital setting ultra bright white light ya can’t even look at for over 2 seconds without wincing . The color is also fight or flight hospital setting bright that makes everything and every one it touches look atrocious . Facts
Thank you for sharing about LED. LED technology has come a long way and there have been many improvements. One being the color temperature and control of brightness. Thankfully there are much warmer color temp and not as glaring LED lights that mimic the old halogen technology that are much more pleasing to the eye 🙂
@@Totallightingsupply thank you for your answer. When you open the t conector i dont see extra cables to connect to.the junction box. How do I do that?
@@davidjrazeghi3248where did you purchase your T-Connector? Here is a link to ours showing the internal workings. www.totaltracklighting.com/t-connector-architectural-black-3-wire-h-style-single-circuit.html You can wire directly into the power feed.
I am having an issue with this bulb. When I pulled out the burnt-out bulb, the pins stayed in. After shutting off the breaker, I tried to pull the pins out with pliers but they are absolutely stuck, almost as if they have been fused to the inside of the socket. I thought maybe i was doing something wrong, so i decided to remove a healthy bulb on the same track to see how it should look. I cannot get this bulb out at all. No amount of pulling or twisting in either direction will move it at all. Note: these bulbs were put in place in 2005 when we built the house and we’ve never had to replace one before now, which is honestly amazing. I know this is an old video but i hope you’re still reading comments. Have you ever experienced anything similar? Edit: After working with it further, I realized there are screws that must be loosened to get the bulbs out, then tightened after you get the new bulb in. I wanted to post this update in case anyone was having a similar problem ☺️
Please see our page here and navigate to the "I have more than one ballast. Show me more information on Dual Ballast Fluorescent Lights" Hopefully that will help you in your troubleshooting. www.totalbulklighting.com/fast-fluorescent-to-led-t8-conversion-tool.html
As a general rule, shunted sockets are used with instant start ballasts, non-shunted sockets are used with preheat, trigger start, rapid start, and programmed start ballast circuits. Most electronic ballasts for F32T8 lamps, for example are instant start, but these lamps also work well on rapid start/programmed start as well as on dimmable ballasts, which are becoming increasingly rare since dimmable type B LED tubes are now readily available at reasonable cost, and the circuitry required to dim an LED tube is less complex than a fluorescent tube. A non-shunted socket can be converted to shunted with a jumper across the socket, making conversions between various circuits possible without replacing the socket.
The Non-Shunted "Tombstones" can be easily used in any LED configuration, since they can always be easily connected to be the electrical equivalent of a shunted tombstone.
This gripper is designed for lightweight suspension of lights, signs, art, etc . . . Min breaking pounds with 3/64" cable diameter is 122lbs, with a 1/16" cable diameter is 157lbs. Max weight for one 3/64" cable is 25lbs and for one 1/16" cable is 31lbs. Hope this helps 🙂
@@Totallightingsupply thank you for information. Currently i am using grippers purchased from local market of India. Can i have you mail id ?? So i can send photos and videos of my gripper.
Yeah it can be a struggle to get those torsion spring clip brackets installed. Glad our video was helpful in offering an alternative way to install that should make the installation process easier 🙂
What about a track setup with multipe tracks feed from a current limiter at begining and power feeds to the next row of lighting, essen ially a daisy chain setup. Bring power in 1end then out the other end on to the next row of track
Those are great suggestions for a future video! Thank you for letting us know! This video as you can see is more general in nature but you'd be surprised on how many layouts fall into something similar 🙂
Sorry to hear our video wasn't helpful. Since placement is super subjective, I would recommend lighting up trees, bushes or some object you would like to bring attention to with a spot light as spot lights are more for accenting and can typically be adjusted to tilt up or down. Since there are a variety of spot light beam spreads, some narrow and others more wide, playing around with the light and how it looks on the objects you want lit is a great way to get the look you're after. You can use the techniques in this video to do just that! Hope this helps 🙂
Great explanation. This is the best low voltage lighting video on the internet! Thank you. Before watching your video, I planned to use a 300W xfmer (keeping future expansions in mind), with 10 or 12 gauge wire, and two ~100ft runs, with 11 led lights on each run, where each light is 5W. But now I think I'll use 14 or 16 gauge wire and I could use a smaller xfmer depending on what I plan to add in the future.
Also, I wanted to add that earlier this year we recently checked in on one of our customers who had a very large project with every light fixture electrically connected using these blue connectors installed almost 4-years ago now with zero electrical issues. These connectors have been exposed to some of the harshest conditions. Extreme heat in the summer, 100F+, Freezing temps in the winter and a majority of the connectors come in contact with irrigation watering almost daily. Still no issues which we think is remarkable. The ease of use of these blue connectors combined with the moisture resistant gel provides a great and reliable alternative to many of the other types of wire connectors on the market. I also want to note that replacing or moving the light on the run is also an easy process when you know the little tricks which we show in our blue connector videos. Again all wire connections are prone to fail . .. we just think our connectors offer a great balance of ease and reliability to our customers🙂
