@Streetdogz Thanks for the video. My top bolt and nut is stripped too. How did you drill out the hole? Did you have enough room to get a regular drill back there or did you use a 90 degree attachment? Also, what size bit did you use? Thanks!
I just took the bottom panel off under the glove box but couldn't see that wire specifically but since it is on the right side and has the foam wrap I'm guessing a plug around the blower, passenger side of the air box or even passed back to the driver side of the airbox. Dropping the glove box & inspecting for a missing plug or removing the side kick panels on either side of the air box & checking for an open plug. The foam implies it wraps around or over something that vibrates (i.e I can see one plug that crosses the blower in the video with the foam touching the blower case ... so that kind of thing). You can see what I am talking about with the foam at 5:14 in vid 4.
We have a 2000 lx470 with a stripped globe (possibly rusted on?), any suggestions on how to remove it? We’ve tried oil filter wrenches and that didn’t work.
Assuming the wrench fittings are completely stripped & chain style oil filter wrenches won't work, you might be stuck drilling a hole through & using a steel rod to turn it (a good big hole & strong rod) or welding a nut or something on the side that you can pound on with a hammer & chisel. In all these cases damage to the old globe is certain but the concern is not damaging the connecting threads & joint at all costs. After these its welding a turning bar on the side to crack it free. Cutting is the last option & has a very high risk of catastrophic failure so NOT a recommendation unless you are good swapping out the suspension for something 'regular' in the case of failure.
Thank you for the clear explanation. I just did this procedure couple of days ago, but ran into an issue after the process was done. I have the “chech 4 wheel ahc system” message now on the dash. Now the truck is stuck in “LO” and The switches are locked out from working. Checked all the fuses and they are fine. Any suggestions how to be able to reset or remove the “system message”?
I occasionally have issues with the ride control including recently after a dead battery probably due to an old drink spill on the switches (which is on the list to pull & clean). After the battery was disconnected & reconnected it seemed to work again. Probably not the same issue as you but it shows the system has some sensitive gremlins. Relays, fuses, switches , wiring & fluid anomolies csuse the errors. If they are all good then I'll see if the service manual I just got has anything else regarding your issue. Might take a day or two.
@@wy3492 I should have guessed. The service manual I got for general engine work was a North American version & had nothing about the AHC system. I did find a short AHC manual online (PDF) by googling for Toyota AHC Service Manual. I should note that I did replace the rear height sensor since the original issue was caused by a heavy load. I also did AHC bleeding to ensure there was no air in the system & finally lots of testing & height movements etc., to get the system to reset. There is also a front height sensor etc. PDF link forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/diagnosis-repair-procedure-of-ahc-pump-sub-assembly_cp3006_1_1-pdf.1718809/ My system 'reset' automatically when the issues were resolved but not certain about a forced reset. The OBDII chart in the manual shows no codes abouy AHC but run could throw an OBDII on it just to see if a reset all codes work but that is ptobably not going to work as you indicated it might be in a 'low' height limp mode.
@@streetdogz Thanks again for your reply. I am gonna go through the linked service manual and check all the procedures. Have been struggling with this issue for days. Thank you again for lending a helping hand. Appreciated🙏
I do not recall seeing, replacing or installing a washer behind the oring.on the new accumulator. If you can and it exists (i.e. its OEM spec) then probably not a bad thing to do. Just can't remember doing such a thing. System still working perfectly. I should buy a manual I guess.
When you are in there doing a timing belt always a good idea to replace the water pump rather than put the old one back. They are relatively cheap here & do fail with age.
Damn, I have the same issue with mice. Really didn't expect the dash removal to be this tedious. I basically have to do exactly what you did and removal all of what you removed to clean the crap. Out of curiosity, how long did it take you to do the removal, clean, and put back together?
In addition to the wire mesh in the engine bay, I added mesh to the vents & wheel wells in the rear fenders because the mice returned the following year to the trunk space. This car is the swiss cheese.of unibodies....and mice.
It took me a week part time (not counting the wait for parts) because I went slow to figure out what I was doing (no detailed videos) & document everything & ensure I got it right. It can be done over a couple of days of focused concentrated work. A pro would take a day.
Good to know. Appreciate the response. Getting started today. Ive recently put the mesh in the engine bay since there wasn't any when I got the car. But I still need to do wheel wells and wherever else I can find lol
In your first video you say you have to take to shop to have freeon removed..is that really the case for cleaning the hvac? Was really hoping for a diy solution.
The AC gas where I live has to be captured & recycled. It can be done with a compressor, manifold & tank (but no public recycling facilities where I live). The refill was DIY but I had to buy the AC manifold on Amazon $25 USD & the refill bottles $25. The cost of an AC recharge at a shop depends on the location but $100-$150 USD (1hr of time + gas & recycle charges). Same for just removing the gas minus the $25 cost of the gas. Good to have a friend at a shop who can remove the gas for the cost of recycling & beer.
Great video ! I recently bought UZJ100 from Japan with 170,000 Kilometers and inspected one front and one rear shocks is weeping/leaking . The car AHC is working as it’s going high and low. Do I need to change the accumulators or just replace the shock absorbers ? And also do I need to change the coil springs ? Your advice will be really appreciated
You didn't specify if you are having other issues but if the shocks are leaking then they should be replaced. The only reason to replace the other components like accumulators is if there are other issues like an excessively bouncy ride over a bump. Springs are usually only replaced if they are broken, the vehicle is bottoming out or you want a different ride feel. The problem with the ACH is that a bouncy ride (even bottoming out) are also symptoms of busted globes so only you can tell which it is. There is also an accumulator piston and relays that also are part of the system but you indicated the rising and lowering are working so probably not relevant. So it all depends on if other issues are present as per my experience but leaking shocks should be replaced if possible.
@@streetdogz The vehicle isn’t bottoming and there’s no bouncy ride . I was just worried , If I fix new hydraulic shock absorbers and IF the coils springs are weak they could damage again the hydraulic shock absorbers ! What do you advice ?
Just curious though, is the central Scottish government's responsibility to rehab this castle, or clan members themselves? I don't know how it works in Scotland. Mom was an Anderson ~~ Beannaich Dia na h-Albannaich anns a ’Ghàidhlig! ~~ Seas gu cinnteach May the Lord God of the Scots Bless you! ~~Stand Sure [Anderson family motto]
@@streetdogz thank you for the prompt reply gonna try and pick one up today. My 99 LX470 been acting up a lil and we've feel like we've traced it back to the fuel filter. After replacing EFI relay, MAF sensor, few other things of coarse. Anyways thanks, need all the help I can get and live always been a beleiver in Have The Right Tools For The Job.
We got ours on ebay. They should be the same for the comparable US Lexus model (i.e.470, etc.). Pricing from a Toyota dealer was double the ebay price but that may have changed. The only other sources were from Australia or Asia (i.e. Japan) but I don't know what the prices were for those countries because we found them in the US.
A very helpful video. Thank you very much. I am wondering how much AHC fluid is needed for what you did, ie. to replace the four accumulators. It would be a disaster if you only have one car, and you don't have sufficient AHC fluid to complete the job.
I believe I used 4- 5 Litres but there should be a Toyota spec somewhere online for the actual total volume. About 2 in the reservoir, 2 in the globes, and 1 in the accumulator & lines.
Does your land cruiser have comfort and sport mode. And do you notice any difference when you change the OEM. I got LC200 but the ride is so bumpy and so annoying, please help me.
There was a comfort sport switch in our LC. The change between modes was subtle but the general ride was smooth. However before the globe replacement, the ride was annoyingly bouncy as the globes weren't effectively dampening the ride. Someone posted that the diaphram inside the globes gives out over time. I have heard online that some people replace the AHC suspension with regular suspension to avoid the cost of the AHC system but I have no idea how to do that or what is involved (guessing some form of coil over). If your electronics work (i.e. solinoids, fuses etc) which can be bench tested (which we replaced but didn't solve the issue). We finally solved it by replacing the globes which we bought on ebay for around $1500 at the time for 4. New stock was even higher priced. Not sure what they cost today. New AHC fluid was around $200 for a metal jug OEM from Toyota.
Yo so, Im tryinna to learn how to remove the dash cause I’m just replacing it since my airbags deployed, you got a vid that points out to all the specific pieces you need to remove just for dashboard?
Ya there's one video of the teardown and then reversed video version for reinstall. But you might not need to go as far as I did because I had to replace the AC evaporator and heating unit due to the mix of mouse crap, fertilizer & mouse poison that they had dragged into the car. Everything on the firewall had to be pulled washed & disinfected. You will get away with pulling far less stuff out for a dash replace. There was a dude online who had posted a video of just pulling a G35 dash for an airbag deploy but I can't remember exactly how detailed the video was. The good news is you won't need to remove the HVAC or cross bar & you may just need to drop the steering column as opposed to dismantle the entire thing to the firewall like I did. Big time savings for you. You'll probably still need to do center consol, lower covers, electronics, some venting, piller covers, glove box. The video shows what I did in order and I'm told the car still works perfectly.
Mine is working meaning raises to H and to L and ride is smooth except much more harsh over bumps on the rear compared to the front. I'm wondering if the springs are worn out or possibly the rear shocks. The shocks aren't leaking though.
When my globes failed they caused a bouncy ride because they didn't dampen. I agree with you that it might be the springs and we replace a lot of those around here on other vehicles but not the LC. Fluid imbalance may also cause a back vs front variance but your fluid would be low in the reservoir or leaking but if that's good then look at the suspension.
@@streetdogz After dealing with more pressing issues on the LX I finally ordered the replacement globes and fluid. I'll be very interested to see how it changes the ride👍
5:20 part 4 of 4 shows putting the heater core in the side of the air box after the b9x is pulled out. Pull the box forward enoigh to pull the pipes from the firewall & the core just slides in the side of the box. There's a big white circular clip that may fall out when you pull it. You will need some foam tape around the edge of the core.
I am working on one for the boss and it won't rise . Code is say c1736 height control solanite .if I put power to solanite disconnected am I right in saying it should raise
Yes but only if the rest of the system is working. As long as the relay, fuses and wiring are good it should rise but that assumes the accumulator is functioning as are the globes. I was also getting a code to start with so I checked/replaced the relay and fuses first and tested the wiring and that fixed the code but it still would not rise (because of the failed globes) but that was also indicated by a very bad ride. You can test all the electronics (i.e. relay and 2 fuses) & if that fails it might be the accumulator, pump or globes).
I have 3.4 ohms across the accumulator discounted I have 12 .7 volts on solenoid when button is pressed for up and down .but the volt is extacly the same on both wires out of solenoid should I not have volt drop on second wire from accumulator
Also should pump work when accumulator is disconnected. Pump reply and fuses all good I can activate the pump by the relay but not the button. Also do you know Where the pump rely gets tricker from
@@sensorsmac5698 i only know the system between the switch and the relay is ecu monitored and controlled with a fail safe. If the system is not functioning, it disallows the controls.
I'm somewhat 'handy', but I am NOT gonna do this. If I had no other way, i'd do it. Your video is awesome and very descriptive! I watched the whole thing. You are a badass dude. THX!
If the firmness settings work for everything else and height adjustment works without issue (including resetting at high speeds) then I'd check everything from tires to balancing and alignment before dropping a couple of grand on globes and a couple of hundred on suspension fluid but I'm no mechanic. If it has any recalls, my local car dealers do a full inspect to try to get you to fix non-recalled stuff. I always decline but then I have a list of stuff to fix and under recall it costs nothing. My issue was it was a bouncy ride at any setting and speed because the globes were completely shot. Perfect ride now.
Is there any way to clean the heater core with the vent box still in the car through side panels or something? I had this same exact thing happen to me, mice got into the car over winter. I’m just trying to avoid draining coolant and removing the refrigerant. I have the dash out now and everything out short of taking off the big cross beam.
I only had to loosen the cross beam and not remove it but that is only because I wanted to deep clean everything including vents. That's because the mice dragged bits of poison and fertilizer from the garage into the car. On the passenger side was a way to slide out a core toward the firewall and the core further back slid out on the driver side. I chose to remove the whole box to deep clean everything but I don't think you need to since the firwall side core seems to block access to the rest of the box. I didn't find anything past the firewall side core. ***** Note the mice also can get in through the back flap vents on the sidewall in the trunk which happened the following year. They will also need to be wired off. Sorry for the late response but RU-vid notifications suck.
Streetdogz thanks for the reply, I have it all back together I ended up just spraying out the heater core box with disinfectant and water after pulling out the center diving between the evaporator and heater core. There wasn’t really anything in there anyways though. The car still slightly smells after literally power washing the sheet metal with the whole interior out multiple times but it’s not noticeable with an air freshener at least
Hey Streetdogz. You lost me straight away in this video with the lower, driver's side panel: How does that piece come off? You talk about the parts that are attached to it and then you go onto the LHS center-console trim piece that must go on before replacing it. You also mention that there's ONE screw that holds it but the location was a bit vague. Is it the screw that's located behind the hood release lever? If so, do you just pry the panel away or is there a sequence that you would recommend? Many thanks bud.
great video man! im replacing the fan housing bracket and i did not know i had to drop the A/C. you just saved me a afternoon of trying to figure out why it wasn't coming off.
Before the ride was excessively bouncy and very annoying. After completion the ride is smooth and appropriately dampened and the suspension adjustment (cushy to sport) actually works (before there was no difference). Also the lift system also finally works.
