@@singlemaltwsky yes, I meant like... do you still have the dimensions for this part? cause I'm thinking about building a type 65 but the lack of a proper window is making me hesitant to press the order button
@@sourcerpanman hmmm. Tricky ask. The frame, window, track and internal pieces are all custom per door (the doors are not semetrical) and this would also be a gen 2 kit. If you purchase the latest Factory Five it's a gen 3....so not sure if any measurement I provide would help??
Totally with you on that one. Would be tough deciding between the two. Most people...even lots of car guys wouldnt know it wasnt an original. Love cars that are not mainstream
Absolutely beautiful car, love the color. I just retired and I've been looking at either the roadster or the 65. I'm leaning towards the 65 but it looks like it would be way more complex to build and much more expensive than the roadster. I have a budget of 65 thousand but I really would like to keep my cost at around 40 thousand. I'm quite sure I could do that with the roadster if I build the engine myself and a friend does the body and paint at his shop. What say you about the 65. If I build the motor and a friend does the paint do you think I could keep my cost closer to the 40 than the 65 thou mark.
Canadian or US dollars - Either way a kit build can be done on a budget but that requires some compromises and sourcing inexpensive and gently used major components like tranny, rear end, brakes, and engine. Paint can be a huge item if done to show standards. It depends what you want. For just a fun driver to take to cars and coffee and the like, 250 HP is plenty for something that weighs less than 2500 lb. Costs can be kept down by sticking with a replica build using Factory Five kit parts and panels. On our build everything is essentially new, custom, and not cheap. The fuel injection and ignition system cost more than my brand new 1972 Cougar. We built a track car some 12 years back using a base dead 1997 BMW 328 and dropped in a Ford small block and a T5 tranny, fully caged and instrumented with new wheels and tires for under 20K. Paint job was 27 rattle cans of DupliColor from an auto parts store. Compromises
yeah - keeping the cost in line is tough one. For sure the 65 is more complex from a body work standpoint, but the mechanical bits are basically the same. The thing people see is the paint and body work, so I would save my pennies and focus on that as a major investment in time and money
Very nice you're lucky to have Dad to help. Like the interior as well as the roll ups and flush mount handles. Go to 3.73 with that trans you'll like it. Well done
Getting ready to order a coupe, love the rear plate recess, but I cannot figure out what it came out of. Being fiber glass instead of building a metal frame is the way to go. Could you tell me were it came from?
Yup - for sure there will be some fabricating of engine mounts etc, however if you're into a build like this that shouldn't scare you. I actually considered a V12 at one point (lots of room), but finding one that was reasonable for power/price was not simple.
It's pretty tight. However this is a Gen 2 chassis with a lot of modification, extended pedal box, lowered floor and very modified seats. If you're looking new I would consider trying to find a Gen 3 to test fit.
Not sure if you are monitoring this but it looks like this is an Ontario car?? If so how was the inspection and registration side of the build in dealing with the govt and their reps?
Yup, Ontario car. You have to really be diligent about your paper work, all you purchase and ownership information has to be documented from factory five as well as all of the aftermarket parts. Inspection was completed by a certified mechanic, and then fight with the MTO to get the VIN created. If you have more questions DM me and we can chat.
I don't like green much , but yours is beautiful. ... If you were 6 foot seven & 270 pounds could you bring your seat back further, or is the diagonal pipe behind the seat going to be a stopper. Did your remove the aluminium seat base? What about the foot well/box going deeper than yours?? Would Size 13 shoes be a problem???
Thanks! Well, size is a problem. This is a gen 2 car, I'm 6'4" and in the original design I did not fit in this car - this car is heavily modified with larger, longer foot boxes, a narrower center tunnel, lowered floor, and a dash that is pushed forward (major reconstruction). The gen 3 is better but if you are considering this at 6'7" I think you might be too big (depends on your leg and torso length). Best bet is to go to the Factory Five facility in MA and try to sit in one.
@@singlemaltwsky Thanks for your response. I smiled reading your wording. Before getting married, my girlfriends used to say, "size is a problem". .... If possible, What is your wheelbase. Is it 93 inch or [95 inch as per Gen 3]? .... What is the dim from bottom of gas pedal to seat back intersection back/seat.. It should be around 42 to 45 inch ?
@@FooFahFoeFum LOL. The wheelbase is 93 (Gen 2), from gas pedal to seat back is 43 inches, from seat base to roof is 37. Again, keep in mind those measurements would be completely custom to this build as the entire chassis was taken apart and reassembled to achieve a larger space.
@@singlemaltwsky Thank you again ... Canuck veterans are the best. ....There is hope for me because the 3 gen is 95" wheel base, with some mods in the foot box i should be ok. .... I've spent 8 or more hours watching your videos and reading your build thanks. ... I checked the Corbeau site... last question for today.. ..Is the seat a ... RRS ...or ... RRX .. or ... RRB ... or LG1 ... or ... A4 ... model ???
@@FooFahFoeFum No problem! ....guess I should make more videos. The seat is an LG1, this only fit due to the fact that the center tunnel was rebuilt more narrow. Also, the seat itself was highly modified with basically all of the bottom of the mount/cage removed, so I'm basically sitting on the floor of the car.
Love it man, this build is on my list in the next few years and I want to have roll down windows too. I'll be searching through your previous vids to see if you documented that but if not could you talk more about that?
Commenting a year later, but very nice build. I’m contemplating a FFR kit car myself, either the coupe or 818C. How many years did this take you to build up to the point in the video?
This build is quite unique, 4 years however that includes a lot of custom work. With a good Subaru donor for an 818 and no deviation from the original design I can see one full summer.
How much time do these take to build? Me and my father work 6 days a week on restorations for barret jackson and take about a year for a complete restoration. Just wondering about how much time not including paint and body and using the parts in the complete kit they sell?
Hey - well, the devil is in the details. To build the basic mechanical bits and basic seat and dash, one summer is probably fine. Once you get going on custom "not in the manual" stuff it can chew tons of time. This build represents 4000 hours (ish) with many reworks on the chassis geometry, custom dash, all kinds of metal work and hand made assemblies for things like window mechanisms, door handles and more.
I'd like to build one, love this car. I would paint it a dark burgundy, with pearled cream stripe down the middle. And I like to try an 8 or 9 speed automatic transmission, not that I can't drive stick, just something different
347 Stroker Windsor. Made nearly 500hp on the dyno, so plenty scary for me. Considering the car weights so little and there are no electronic nannies.....it's a wild ride.
@@singlemaltwsky I bet!! 347 with even a moderate cam and good heads makes plenty of power no need for a big block Noticed how far behind the front axle the engine is. bet it goes around a corner real well! Hood with air venting is just killer! The Fan Man and others make rubber flaps you can mount on your fan shroud so at higher speeds it has somewhere to go rather than piling up in the fan area. They sell different sizes very easy to install.
