Excellent video Sir, thank You a lot 👍.Yet I have one problem with my tiller case covers .First I have to put an oil rubber seal (oil seal ring with the spring inside)in the case and then on the top of it I have to put the bearing,and then I must put them on an axle. It is a Goldoni tiller and the covers are listed as NO:1 : download.eurogarden.be/en/downloads/exploded-views?path=%2Fgol%2Fcut%2Fcut-gol-0000_t21.pdf
Used electric ovens are plentiful and cheap if they've cosmetic damage, and easy enough to place on a wheeled dolly for easy movement about the shop. They're also nice for heating heads for valve guide installs etc.
Thanks for video, I used the process with a Yamaha 660 case out of a Rhino / Grizzly I had mixed results, One of the bearings dropped right in as seen on this video But the other 10 took tapping, or using the press and or using a hammer to set them in. Just keep moderate expectations with multible options open.. I put the crankcase assembly in the freezer, put on vise, and put the case over top and used a 4lb plastic mallet to tap case down onto bearing..
Hi I love your video .. i have this problem i was changing the water pump shaft when i put the cases back together and tide the bolts the piston won't spin if i untied them the piston spin normal do you have an idea what can that be
I think the water pump drive gear is binding somehow. Maybe check to make sure you installed the shaft correctly. Also all bearings must be seated. Did you remove the crank? What bike? More details..
*Tries to fit crank with hot cold method, doesn’t go in, sees this video and feels mocked* “see how I can instal and uninstall many times, see?” ..... -.-
When I use this method I better get the bearing dropped in straight the first time, cause if it wedges the bearing gets hot and I have to start all over. Though they’re usually magnesium cases I’m working with, and they’re painted so can’t get them too hot
Nearly 7 years after this video was made and it is the best one so far explaining this process. Straight forward and to the point. Thanks Steve!!! New subscriber.
The best practice is a bearing puller tool however you can very carefully heat the bearing with a torch. I have used tin foil to deflect the heat from getting to the shaft and then concertrating the heat in one spot if the inner race.
thanks for posting this video im currently installing a new Bearing in my Yamaha PW 80 2 stroke and I wasn’t sure how to go about this keep up the good work!
Mate props to you. This was the most impressively clear, concise and invaluably informative video I've seen. No bullshit, just really priceless information. However I'm having issues, and you might not reply to this let alone reply before I have a go and fuck my transmission casing up for the 2nd time. But basically, I'm pressing a brass sleeve bush into my a brand new aluminium transmission casing. The casing is roughly the same thickness as your casing in the video but has paint on the other side. Food paint which is why I bought thw casing. So I wouldn't want to melt it. On top of this the hole for the brass bush to fit isn't just too small, it's smaller than the exposed hole in my original casing. Almost as if the bush installation permanent increases the hole size or the manufacturer drilled the hole larger before hand. I would say where the bush is roughly 8-10mm diameter, the hole is nearly a whole mm smaller. I've seen tight fits before but because the piece is comparatively a lot smaller than your bearings, I'm concerned that even a blow torch, freezer and press wouldn't get it in without breaking the brass bushing. Any ideas what to suggest. Machining the bush down is my best idea so far. I'm also concerned that too much heat on the inside of the case might melt paint on the outside.
nazminazminazminazmi in my opinion, I feel that localised heating can put a lot of pressure on the cooler, thinner areas. Also most times you are installing all the bearings so it makes sense to heat the entire case and let it cool at an even rate.
