This channel is dedicated to me documenting things that I come across in an artistic and informative manner. Videos are cut the way they are, sometimes incomplete, but depicting the memory of the event. I don’t claim to know anything, I’m just stumbling through this just like everyone else
@@uzifouryoutwosay well I was going to buy another barrel after I got the first barrel and I have a friend with a kit waiting to see how my purchase through cryo went before buying a couple barrels, but now we don't want much to do with them. Cryo posted a picture today on insta showing their finally starting machining. I think their afraid of the progress RCM is making and trying to stop refunds
@@shawnwillis7561 Oh I wouldn’t doubt it. The thing is, they’ve missed the mark. If they were actually able to deliver before RCM the chrome lining and availability would have been worth the extra couple hundred bucks. That being said I’ve ran the hell out of RCM barrels in all my other production stuff and I gotta tell you, I’ll take their nice nitrided hammer forged barrels that cost less.
Seems a little hot for a 308 especially a weighted one. Was there an issue with the locking piece or the recoil spring on this gun? My FMP receiver "G3" doesn't kick this hard on semi.
I don’t see what you’re talking about. From the shooting perspective, it’s a pretty mild recoil impulse. For what it’s worth, I’m a big guy and I do this every day, so I’m as much of a subject matter expert on this as you can be. Shooting in the prone is a little different than standing or off a bench, but I challenge you to take a video of yourself shooting from different positions and see how you compare. I’d be interested to see it. What’s more, the belt feds and “E” guns have a higher bolt velocity than a standard G3. Not trying to be a prick or anything, just being honest
Sound like he is getting some water. We never had to drive much pipe unless we got into gravel along a river and then only for a few feet. The drillers all over the world have adapted to the ground conditions . And most all I have met love to talk drilling like me and are willing to help you with issues you encountered .
I wonder if dihydromyricetin is more effective if you combine dihydromyricetin with vitamin B1 (thiamine). Or better yet, combine dihydromyricetin with benfotiamine. I think benfotiamine is a more high-powered form of thiamine. Give it a try!
Hell yeah. I'm just waiting for my barrel to get shipped and then I'm gonna build my hk21. I'm not an SOT so I can't have the same fun as you can, but I will enjoy it anyways
Dude that will be an awesome gun when you get it together! I’m excited to put one together for myself once I get through the customer guns! Let me know if you have any questions when you’re building it.
@@Themarketplacebandit I would check to see the routing of your ground wire. The 48RE is a very similar transmission and in an 03 the topography of the engine management system is more like what you would see in an older truck
Maybe try not getting cracked out on energy drinks before trying to make a video. I've seen Parkinson's patients with steadier ,option than your camera work. Absolute trash.
@@uzifouryoutwosay Im probably gonna try selling my cz bren 2 in x39 at a loss just to make sure I don't miss out on these kits. I've wanted a hk21e/hk23e since I heard of them a year ago. Rtgroberts has a lot of hk21e/hk23e parts that might make turning a hk21 into a hk21e possible
@@shawnwillis7561 I know apex had them as well, HKPARTS may be getting another shipment in, so I would watch for them there. Unfortunately they are completely different machines. You would be better served buying an 11a1 kit as you can actually convert those with a belt feed mech down the road.
Hey Pimp, this was my first video, you saw the final results at the end. It’s not rocket surgery just take it to PAR(peak anodic resistance) dunk it in dye, the seal it and you’re good.
I swear by these, I've taken cheers, flyby purple tree you name it, and I drink a lot more than this guy did, but I refuse to drink without them now. I usually take 3 when I start or after the first drink then 3 before bed, sometimes one or two in there if I've been drinking all day long. I've done testing on only taking dhm and mixing dhm with other pills and I like mixing but I've actually found that just taking the other pills there actually isn't enough just dhm in them, and that only taking dhm works fine, so now I pretty much just get the dhm because these other brands are getting stupid expensive.
I miss them I was raised on the Derrick floor of my grandfather’s old walking beam rigs! I had a little water well rig for years but my first wife made me get rid of it!
So I know you can do two step anodization, and it’s possible you could re-anodize that part depending on how big the chip is. (The bigger the better I would think). Otherwise sharpie marker is a close runner up
@@uzifouryoutwosay appreciate the reply!! It’s a little small chip on the edge of my compensator would I have to remove the anodizing coat that’s already on there and replace with a new one ? Or is there a method where I can get that edge re-anodized ?
@@Deeznuts-cz3cs so the anodizing that’s on the part now won’t conduct electricity, but that area that’s chipped will. The issue will be holding it so it makes contact with your power source in a place that’s out of sight, as that will need bare metal as well. Frankly, I would strip the thing with a sodium hydroxide solution (lye) and then just redo the whole thing, dye and seal it. It’ll be the most straightforward way to do it.
@@Deeznuts-cz3cs your diameters will probably open up slightly, but chances are you won’t be able to perceive it unless something requires a +\-.0005 fit.
thanks for the vid first time owning a 5.9 always wanted one and just needed the general idea of what i’m doing thanks for pointing me in the right direction 👌
@@uzifouryoutwosayagreed lol late asf reply but this did work for me lol got er up and running again the day after watching this video and she’s still cruisin pretty simple process once you get the idea
The level of the voltage drives the amperage given the apparent resistance in ANY circuit. When you regulate the maximum amperage at the power supply you automatically limit the voltage applied in order NOT to exceed that amperage. So in essence you don't need to worry about what the Voltage is to get the desired about of current flow. If you crank up the current setting, you'll see the voltage rise. At the same time you need to have the voltage setting on the power supply HIGH enough in order to maintain your current setting, so one must decide what they want to maintain at the steady rate. If it's Voltage, then set the voltage and then run up the allowed current high enough so that the voltage can be maintained. The point to remember: Voltage is the pressure applied to a circuit, Current is the amount of flow of electricity in the circuit.
i installed one of those, and it was so frustrating when it just pulls off the cable. the whole red button pat just comes completely off the cable. are you saying you are engaging the actuator for front wheel drive and 4 wheel drive? im understanding that when you shift gears to 2L for example, it gears you down.. but what happens if you shift to 4H or 4L without pulling the actuator?
When you pull the actuator towards you, it pulls the locking collar on the axle to engage the front axle for 4WD. If you pull the shift lever on the transfer case to either 4H or 4L without engaging the shift collar, the practical effect is 2H and 2L
@@donatonigro did the red rubber cap come off the black plastic knob, but the knob remained attached to the pull cable? Or did the knob come unscrewed/detach itself from the cable?
@@uzifouryoutwosay the knob itself came off the cable.. my buddy and I couldn't figure out the effective attachment mechanism. It's just a female hole in the know that the cable inserts into, with no identifiable way of securing it inside the hole of the knob
@@donatonigroIf it’s not some amazon knockoff I would contact those folks at Posi-lok and get them to sort you out. It’s not good enough of a product for you to have to deal with nonsense on it.
Not bad results. I'm not sold on the anodizing thing. It's like a wet powder coating. Hell, I thought it involved a deposition of metallic ions to form a black finish. Clothing dye? That's weak. I like the nickel solution idea. What we will do for our firearms...anything!
I hear ya, this is a cosmetic anodization that improved the wear properties and made it match the rest of the gun. Frankly I would do anodization and then something like cerakote, as the anodizing improves the wear characteristics of the aluminum significantly. The Cerakote also does this, but can be customized color wise
@@uzifouryoutwosayCerakote sounds like an excellent solution. The anodizing surface seems to create a good bonding surface for coatings. I'm used to GunKote, I may try this over anodizing. Thanks!
Hell yeah Brother, keep me updated as the miles go up. Don’t be scared of 53 blocks either, if that thing was gonna crack it would have. I put 330,000 on mine before I put it in a ditch.
@@uzifouryoutwosaythanks man! Will do. Not too scared of 53 blocks at all. Seemingly the “bad” ones usually cracked well before 100k. But this truck is awesome. 4WD, Nv4500, dually, leather interior, gooseneck for our horse trailer, zero blow by.
Your power supply isn't pushing 12v because the setup is shorted and the path of least resistance doesn't require 12v . i think the current is passing thru the top support bar for hanging ur lower and straight to the foil, not passing thru the electrolitic sulotion.. if you short the alligator clips directly together it would read even less Voltage.. no matter how high you turn the Voltage dail. Edit: sry bro bro, didn't read ur earlier reply saying you are now using a variac and rectifying back to AC.. seems like you know whats what.
Appology accepted, It’s DC that comes off the bridge rectifier, but I appreciate the acknowledgement. This was my first ever attempt, and I documented it for the whole internet. In retrospect I’m surprised I got as good a result as I did, knowing how hilt-whammy my whole entire setup was. No agitation, terrible racking, etc. Needless to say, mistakes were made.
I am from Morocco. I work in drilling machines. I am very professional in drilling machines. In Morocco, I dig 200 meters and 300 meters. I love this work very much. 
You guys gotta learn it’s not about boost day with a diesel. It’s about air. I’ve been running Cummins for 20 years. Haven’t you guys figured it out yet?
Wrong food chain. I’ve been driving a cummins for 14 years, and a cumulative 500,000 miles of seat time across 3 different trucks. Not to mention the 328,000 miles that Borg Warner 62/65 turbocharger has on it from me operating it in this condition. Stock turbos are limited based on the inlet diameter, therefore lager inlet diameters on the inducer allows for more air. Combined with 15lbs of boost over what the stock charger will do means better performance overall. Boost equates to power, it’s as simple as that. It’s more atmospheres of compressed air going into the inlet. Combined with proper fueling and you get power.
my tip when your done anodizing a part keep it in boiling water for like 15mins to keep the paint solid on there you rinze it with clean water and you wash most of of it
So if you boil it after dying, that is correct, that seals the dye in the pores of the aluminum(creates aluminum hydroxide in the pore structure) , whereas if you’ve sealed it with nickle acetate, the sealing has already taken place, and boiling it afterwards doesn’t change the final result.
So I just recently ran across your video here, and I'm quite impressed with the setup for this process. I'm getting ready to clean up and re-anodize the receiver for a Mossberg 88 12 ga. shotgun that the previous owner totally screwed up with a crappy home-made parkerization job. Least to say, is the receiver isn't the only thing getting blacked. But from what I saw from your voltage supply, I think I may change into using a 12V battery charger from Harbor Freight to see if I can get that thick black coating for the receiver. Hopefully I get a good shine on it, or else I'll have to do multiple iterations to get this right. Maybe I'll try it out on other aluminum parts first before the receiver...
You will probably be able to get some kind of anodization growth on it, but that’ll depend on the size of the part. These DC power supply’s are on amazon for cheap, and It’ll allow you more control for a better result. I’ve since gotten into the business of anodizing firearms and components and I’ve probably done 100 anodization runs on a small scale. Also, it’s worth noting that your Racking (connection to the part) and the Cathode is important. You can’t overdo it on the racking piece (multiple connections, preferably with aluminum fasteners) and plenty of Cathode surface area (aluminum foil) try to do 3x times the surface area of the part. What’s more, it being cold as hell out right now you’ll be able to get a harder coating, which’ll be good, but that 12v power supply will have a hard time getting decent current density to the part. But listen, chances are you’ll get a decent result with the part so long as you’re not too particular. PS. For best results, make sure that part is stripped clean, IE down to bare metal, don’t blast it, but you can polish it or abrade the old anodizing away with aluminum oxide based sandpaper (most sandpaper) or blasting media. Then dunk it in your 15% sulfuric acid and 2% lye solution back and forth a couple times, rinse it in distilled water and get to coating. Because it’s all-ready been coated before, you’ll need to do your best to remove the old anodization in order to get a good coating grown on it.
