Too much G force for it to handle 😂

@@shuaikezz 90nm which I think is about 9kg on both front and rear with plus 6 clicks again on both front and rear. My preference is a equal setup. Also run 3 degrees of camber front / 2.8 degrees on rear with shims. Hope this helps.

@@matt_tracks thanks Matt, great to know. How much clicks of damping do you have? It’ll give me a reference to what I have. Keen to try your setup, especially with the rear camber. What tyre pressures (hot) if you don’t mind?

@@shuaikezz 6 clicks both front and rear. Hot tyre pressure is about 32psi on ar-1s but this can vary depending on weather / track surface / time on track etc. Typically start somewhere about 25psi cold and adjust from hot psi reading when I come in from a session.

@@matt_tracks haven’t had the chance to try the AR1s yet, will give it a go soon. Have been using the rs4 hankooks for a while now. Sorry I meant how many clicks in total in your coil overs? Then I’ll know where your 6clicks is compared to mine so I can try it out. Mine has total of 30clicks. Cheers

@@shuaikezz my ASTs have 12 clicks in total. Settings and tyre pressures will vary between different setups but hopefully give you a reference point to work from.

They really come alive on track, have a great day at Donington!

With FWD, the key is pointing the steers the way you want to go. As the car rotates, keep the wheels pointed down the road, exactly as the driver here did. The back usually sorts itself out as throttle at the front pulls the back in behind. The danger is when the fronts find more grip and the car rockets in the direction of the front wheels. When I drive a FWD in the snow I almost always have the back end sliding a little around corners but it works because the fronts are pulling me in the direction I want to go. With RWD it's more important to steer out of the skid to get "ahead" of power put down by the back wheels. Doing that in a FWD will cause the back end to fly around the other way as soon as the fronts find more grip. Full time AWD systems are kind of a mix of both behaviours. There is less point-and-squirt though as a back tire will tend to take the power and spin instead of the front clawing forward. 4x4 is different still as the axles will have a greater propensity to break traction, but it does give better control than RWD on slippery surfaces as the front can pull.

That's probably driver error, liftoff oversteer. That or/and your suspension isn't dialed.

@@ghost-carnage8964 or my front tires are kinda bald and it was wet whole time I was sending it 😂🤷🏻‍♂️ I was pretty much trying to get the back end to kick out but I was surprised I was able to do it so much

@@ghost-carnage8964 and yes lift off oversteer but on purpose, trying to find the limits of the car in a semi controlled environment when I’m ready for it to happen so I can be better prepared if it ever happens unexpectedly

@raulmelo5881 it's pretty easy to do but that's good you are purposely trying to mess up to learn somewhere confined, I feel like that's the best way. Keep ripping brother. It's like I tell people how to learn to drive in snow, go find a parking lot and slide around, try things out.

​@@raulmelo5881put the bald tires on the back and you can have alot of fun :) also safer that way

Yes and No, both will require throttle input but the way its handled is different oversteer requires countersteering in both FWD and RWD but FWD the way you are countersteering is with alot of throttle and then steering in the direction you want to go, the car will pull the rear and straighten out, RWD you wanna countersteer while also using throttle input but MUCH LESS throttle input than correcting in a FWD and it's much easier to spin out vs FWD due to the nature of being pushed vs pulled

acceleration shifts more weight to the back, no matter which wheel drive. in a fwd car you can just step on the gas, all the weight shifts to the back wheels and that makes your back end line up with the front. real cool in a fwd drift, cause you just rotate until you line up with the exit corner, then you hit the gas and fly out. in a rwd car you gotta nudge it with the steering wheel a little bit so the back grips up, then you can give it gas and shift the weight to the back. but too much gas or not enough steering will just break traction and make the back end step out towards the heavy side. either car, you should really practice in a forgiving spot, somewhere with nothing to crash into if you lose it. best when it rains or snows, cause you wont need as much speed and you get more time to think. but once you got a feel for it, it could save your life on the track or on the street.

Most is just racechrono app and my phone, you can add odb for additional things like revs but not essential

@@matt_tracks Alright, thanks!

I know right! Oversteer can be managed but understeer is killing me 😂

@@razvy6949 yes, indeed mostly takes to much space or time to recover, time that you don't have 9 out of 10 times😅

understeer can be managed too actually. get some oversteer to rotate the car, then as soon as you line up with that exit you can step on the gas and fly right out

By going in too fast!

@@matt_trackscan I do this in my 2005 Lexus with regular tires

@@ithebot4046 ☠️☠️

by going fast enough and having all your weight shifted to the right (or wrong) spot, or especially with a cold pair of tires in the back

whats really scary is when you over correct it and it snaps you 180 degrees.

​@@1oneguythatwith a front wheel drive you are not supposed to correct it in the same sense, but rather point in the direction you want to go and let a push of the throttle pull you out. It's like pulling a toy car with a string.

It's really easy to recover from oversteer a FWD, you just countersteer and mash the throttle

Agreed! Though I would argue it is pretty difficult to recover at speeds like that in the video. Have a great day!

full throttle, but am no expert this is just what I do in video games if an FWD oversteers

counter steer and throttle

@@XenooS7 don’t do that it’s both steering and throttle breaking will not help

I bet it happened because of gravel on the road , same thing happened to me today but i am gald i didn't flipped over or wrecked It's like i was so close to crash that my brain went in slowmo and then i did something which avoided it like countersteering twice and can say raising a little speed cause i used the clutch on downhill Which put up speed I didn't knew it could happen in a fwd

Full throttle and counter steer

no he went too sharp in the corner

It certainly helps to pull you out of the slide but its a fine balance between steering and power

isn't this maneuver called the scandinavian flick/pendulum turn?

@@e47kzthe flick is used to purposely step the rear out by unbalancing the car's weight by "flicking" it to the opposite direction before adding lock to the intended direction, in this case, it was simply oversteer due to cold tyres and a recovery by adding power to the front wheels to "pull" the car back towards the steering direction

I don't think so... but that would be a good excuse! 🤣

​@@matt_tracks he was definitely using the sports model where the ratio is 70 % at the rear wheels

To a degree, was a cold wet December day on semi slick tyres!

@@matt_tracksyou mean semi bald?

@@mudmane808 yes some very used nearly bald R888R semi slick tyres

@@matt_tracks lovely

It was a powerslide

@@am_sousa2246you can’t power slide fwd

@@bozzabosnich9084 You can, fwd can drift and rwd can powerslide. It's all about when you turn in the corner

But in this case, this is a powerslide as the car enter the corner and then slide

It's an spa design oil temp / pressure gauge

300 - runs intercooler, down pipe and air filter with map to suit. No other engine or turbo mods. Coilovers and a few other interior updates to aid in driver feel and confidence. It's not fully stripped out, just a rear bolt cage for harnesses retaining all creature comforts to make driving to UK and EU tracks as pleasant as possible.

sounds like mid resonator delete as well?

@@coastallad1010 correct, stock exhaust with mid res delete

Same power as you, no other engine mods. Handling wise I'm on coilovers, r888r tyres and track focused brake pads. For me a proper bucket seat really aids overall feel and therefore confidence combined with a harness to hold you in tight.

@@matt_tracks cool that's good to know! I was on ps5 front, ps4 rear. Yellow stuff pads up front (wanted value for money) really impressed with the pads! Bite was always there, just the pedal kept disappearing due to the lines/fluid. Mines not a cup so I dont have the diff. Which I know will make difference. Yours seems to grip better coming out of turns, lot less tyre squeal. Mine is set up for road tbf, so I was pretty happy with it, as I domt want it set up for track as I'll only track it very occasionally. You were going really well in this vid tho mate!

Not sure on the impreza spec but it was fast! You can see this from how it pulls away on the straights, think it may have been a time attack car as fully stripped out and caged with that mega wing. To be fair to the impreza driver I think he must have been having a bad day with his brakes, but either way was great fun chasing it down!

Paddock hill is at Brands isn't it? Are you referring to the down hill section into the left hander at Mansfield? Either way yes megane has much more low down torque and equally a lower rev limit which is still something I'm still getting used to as I hit the limiter alot! Especially coming from a clio 182 where all the power is at the top end of the rev range. The megane is fantastic but very different in that respect.

​@@matt_tracks Sorry, mixed up the tracks / names! I meant the uphill section at 1:13. Yeah that makes sense, not only the presence of low down torque but lower limiter as well. How do you find the stock suspension (cup pack) on longer journeys? I need something a little bit more compliant and civilised than MK3 RS200 basically :) Thanks for the reply!

@@bozukbeyin ah I see through the pit entry chicane before going up and over the mountain 👍 a great section of track.. cup suspension is good and more than capable, however I'm lucky as I don't daily mine so have swapped out to coilovers now, but still drive it to tracks all over the UK and Europe without issue. I'd expect it to be a bit more refined vs the 200 whist still being able to keep it's edge on the tight and twisties when required

​@@matt_tracks Thanks for the input! I was quite surprised to find out that ride quality on my RS200 improved noticeably when I swapped the cup shocks to Billstein B14's, which is a pretty simple coilover tbf, so perhaps this is also something to consider / research on before buying a 275. I definitely need a test drive to begin with! Cheers

Could have saved that easily, but was sleeping on the corrective steering.

App is racechrono pro, that's all you really need. You can add a gps receiver to improve accuracy over using the phone and a cheap odb reader for some extra dials like rpm as I have, but not required.

@@matt_tracks is it the one for £17.99?

@@hammondz83 yeah that's the one.

It's Cadwell Park in the UK, one of my favourite circuits as quite technical with little room for error and some awesome elevation. The mix of challenging corners has led to it being given the nickname as the Mini-Nürburgring

Spec is 265 cup with the following modifications - intercooler, decat downpipe, remap, coilovers, bucket seat, shifter, steering wheel, then track focused pads and tyres. It's done to a standard where I can still enjoy driving the car on the road to UK and EU circuits whist also having a blast on track! instagram.com/matt_tracks/