GM dexcool has a very short operating life, the coolant viscosity gets thick faster than like chrysler oat coolant which is 10 year coolant or 100,000 miles until exchanged. When people go over on their coolant exchange service on a GM ls like in the vid the coolant deteriorates fast and i clogs up the ehole system and causes engine overheating and heater core preformance issues. Other than that GM especially in the 2000s have bullet proof designs
Yeah, the further I got, the worse it did. I told them about it and they ended up stopping with the repairs. Just returned the parts they had acquired for this.
I am about to embark on the same project. 2021 Forrester. Are all those parts necessary, or did you find some UNnecessay? I’ve got the valve and the manifold gaskets, but not the rest. If so can you divulge the full parts list?
@@Ace.Fisher the average home owner is not gonna go commercial overkill and spend 8 to 40k, to mow their lawn once a week for the summer. these cheaper lawn tractors will get the job done just fine for a good 10+ years with a little common sense. for around 2,500 to 4k.
I have the same problem on my 06 Ford F150 where 1st and 2nd gear are good when it goes to shift to 3rd it neutrals out. Did you have the same problem? at first i thought it would be a broken snap ring from the OD servo but that was not the case when I opened and removed the Valve Body It was all good. I don’t have a check engine light on or codes. Do you think it’s the solenoid??
Answer: I've had a couple I've done where the snap ring on the servo was toasted went well. This one was a client's hail-mary attempt to not swap their transmission. I wasn't too convinced it would work since it neutraled out after 3rd and the servo is technically for OD.
You can see the key and lock symbol doesn't turn off meaning it's not seeing the chip in the key. Key and lock symbol should turn off after turning key to on position
My jeep is doing this. What exactly was fixed? Last time it did this my uncle said he replaced the ignition. So i figured it was the same thing 🤷🏽♀️ I dont even know where to start.
2012 GMC Canyon / Chevrolet Colorado NO CRANK, NO START. Tested: - Starter and relay - ignition switch - Neutral Safety Switch - ECM Diagnosis: The FUSEBOX was faulty. The spades were NOT making full contact with the relay, causing issues. Used replacement has been ordered. -For now: a rubber band applying pressure is working.
Had a '95 Chrysler Cirrus. Battery was in the driver side fender well. Had to take the tire off. Remove the fender skirting to get access. What a pain!
I have a 08 Sebring Chrysler same location. And btw it can be taken out with out taking off the tire. Just turn your wheel left all the way or right ether way works.
What're you looking for specifically? Maybe I can DM you something. Unfortunately, I do not spend loads of time editing so I have no uploaded the more in depth part.
@@isaacheiss7093 I just realized I didn't load the rest. 😆 I'll hunt it down and add the link when I do. Unless I never made it. Idk. Thank you for pointing this out
Just for clarification, here are NAPA part numbers. *Part #: ECH TS5869* Important Information: Can be used as a Engine Cooling System Temperature Sensor, Located At Oil Filter *Part #: ECH TS5805* Important Information: Located on Cylinder Head
I believe that’s the oil temp sensor which goes under the intake manifold. I bought that exact “coolant” temp sensor and noticed it plugs in to the oil temp sensor while doing an oil pressure sensor replacement (both on the oil cooler) it seems that every site has them listed wrong. Were you able to find the right one? Could use a part number.
The thermostat is right next to it, and you can tell by the shape of the sensor, it's for coolant. These 3.7s have that odd oil system in the engine valley and they have a coolant/oil sensor. It's technically for the oil that is exchanging heat with the coolant on the cooler. I posted a comment to show Part numbers and info offered from the site.
