Never use cloned software on a laptop you use with a internet connection. Hackers may compromise your data, passwords, etc. The laptop your using is connected to your network and these chinese units are known to have lots of dodgy stuff in the installation. Be careful...
Hi! I cannot download that program you're opening at 1:39 (Delphi software), does it come automatically when you have your laptop and the OBD connected to the car?
I'm coming back to your video as I didn't watch the end. On BMW, the suspension arm located at the front has an hydro-bushing (under frame side). This bushing can fail and can cause wobbling and steering wheel shaking under braking. Keep and eye on those too. ;-)
Hi, I used a set similar to below: www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Wheel-Bearing-Removal-Installation/dp/B01KXQIBO2/ Most important thing is to ensure that the set contains the correct size adapters for your bearing.
Going through this entire process right now! I do know however in my saga that I have had a direct impact to that wheel, which bent the wheel, and I had driven on it like this for a while. Now I put brand new wheels on the car, with road force balancing, and I still get a similar steering wheel shake as with the old set that had the driver rear bent (although much less). Something tells me the bearing has also sustained damage considering the wheel was bent on the face side. Just recently however I have 5DB2 pop up during heavy rain. It has stayed on even whilst it being dry now though. I have ordered the bearing and a new sensor.
Hi, Definitely sounds like bearing damage. Is there any play / movement in the bearing. Also maybe the tone ring on the back of the bearing is damaged. Definitely further investigation required.
How did you get the shaft out? I broke whole assembly trying to knock it out. Tried pulling, pushing, knocking was the last resort, that eventually broke it. Its very brittle forged aluminium. Plese, any tips?
I had one before this video that was completely seized in the housing. Took ages of working it back and forth with penetrating oil to free it off. Now the first sign of it seizing or slowing down I attend to it and remove the corrosion that builds up on the shaft. Quick and easy job and becomes a no parts required job if attended to quickly.
@@tobias8709 what I did is remove the pivot from the motor, it's hard but you can do it then if the microswicth is still hard you can try to give some hit carefully otherwise as I did cut with the blade the microswicth and if you are lucky the motor will come off otherwise need Tu use blade also for this cutting horizontal. Not too many chances. The things is after installed new parts I still found water in 😤
I had one before this video that was completely seized in the housing. Took ages of working it back and forth with penetrating oil to free it off. Now the first sign of it seizing or slowing down I attend to it and remove the corrosion that builds up on the shaft. Quick and easy job and becomes a no parts required job if attended to quickly.
Just a delay in pressure in the calipers thats makes uneven were of rotors and pads? After the diesel scandal ,my trust of german cars is not that high anymore ,doubt them more than otter cars
Isnt that one of the things that bmw had "build" in there cars to make people come more often back for new brakes and pad by the bmw dealer? Like plastic crap everywhere on the cars
Hi, Just wear and tear on a car used daily I believe in this case. Plastic seems to be the material of choice going forward with all mainstream manufacturers. Seems sometimes you only have to breathe on plastic and it breaks with ease
Did the juddering stay away long term? I replaced my rear brakes and it was spot on for a while but came back after a few months. Between 50-60 like you have described although not felt through the steering wheel.
Hi, I've had absolutely no issues since. Done many thousand miles since this vide without issue. Pads are due for replacement again soon. Will check the disks again at this service.
Hi, Pin 4 is the chassis ground and Pin 5 is the signal ground. Depending on your interface these 2 are often bridged together. Check your interface cable. If you need any help then message me. Kind regards
Hi, The firmware is available on my ISTA based hard drive available at the link below: www.djwwautodiagnostics.co.uk/product/bmw-06-23-ista--d-4-41-41-ista-p-3-71-0-000-e-sys-inpa-ssd-hard-drive
@djwwautodiagnostics I don't have DIS but I have INPA & NSCExpert etc... Do you only need DIS to read the codes? I'm looking to follow your tutorial, but I feel like I dont need the Head program right? That's just a bridge for the VM sessions correct? If you can help, I dont want to do it wrong, Thanks.
thank you very much i just got my xprog 6.50 , in have a few test frms , in seems it work now to find buddy cat to test in as buliding a bench test platform is not in the budget just yet , have you tried any edited on vin milage , to reset frm to a new state if so any insite on this would be great again thank you
FRM repair went well did 4 test on old module in got change to do on same car in all good after repair on additional faults as i seen some have coding faoults , in trying to get ahold of bin file from new frm w/o any vin milage or v/o but as always test verify in if good reset to factory in possible resell od offer change info from user will just neeedd thier core in proper info , i keep you posted@@djwwautodiagnostics
Hi, We run on a 32-Bit operating system as we have older versions of EDIABAS. These will not run on a 64-Bit OS. The older versions are required to run with DIS V44 / V57
Interesting video, thank you. 12:34 - We usually screw the wheel bolts on with spacers to be 100% sure the disc is tight against the hub. There the disc is kept in place only by the little "safety" disc retaining screw. It's not enough.
Hello, I've purchased an ICOM Next (silver one) from ebay and I'm trying to do diagnostic work with ISTA for my 2009 BMW K1300R. When I plug in the ICOM next it shows up on ISTA but its not able to connect to the bike. Online I've seen people use the old ICOM (orange) module to connect to my bike so I'm wondering if I bought the wrong module and need to buy the orange one, or if I can just update the ICOM Next module with suitable software that is compatible with my bike. Thank you
Hi, The ICOM NEXT will work absolutely fine. When you try to connect with your ICOM does it say 'Free' or 'Firmware'? If it says Firmware then yes you need to upgrade the firmware. Please contact me if you require any further assistance. Kind Regards.
Hi there my icom shows up in Ista as firmware do you have any ideas where I may find the firmware to install I have tried what you do in your video but I must have the wrong firmware as it says image file does not match
Hi, the hub / wheel bearing was checked and was 100% smooth with no play or unwanted movement. I have a video coming soon for replacing the wheel bearing on the rear wheel 😀
This is definitely not skimping on cheap brakes. Comline are a premium coated product and have performed superbly since installation. Some of the best brakes I've had for a long time. I've had Mintex and Pagid in the past on this car and neither have been fantastic if I'm honest. Would definitely use Comline brake products again and would recommend them 100%.
