Just a regular asshole who's sick of watching the world fall into absolute stupidity. I ride the Hell out of motorcycles... And I know stuff.
I work on spooky magic things like carburetors, automatic transmissions, motorcycle engines and hydrostatic implements, big truck air brake systems and tracked vehicle drive motors. If it's broken, I can probably fix it.
Oh, and I live with my dog Capone full time in my 1977 GMC Eleganza II Motorcoach that I just drove for the first time 1011 miles to South Texas, about an hour west of Houston. It's weird being back in the land of flat straight roads to nowhere.
I installed a new K&N filter and after second gear that I try to accelerate I feel like it looses power trying to bog out. Could it be since is a K&N filter till it gets used to it? It has been re jetted
Not a 70 … maybe a 72 unless the tank was replaced with a 72 tank….. I owned a 69 360 enduro with an 8 speed (2 x 4) and a 70 250 and 400. All had the identical tank and frame. 228 lbs dry and 50 lbs lighter than its competitors. Taller than the CZs and Maico. But, neither of those are 1970. Paid 999.00 for the 400 new.
and thanx 4 the advice, i dint think that u gotta remove that hive n old stuff, ( food 4 other critters ), bare hands !! , i like critters , n honey too , like 2 find someone smart , like u , . 2 talk 2 about bees , murder hornets , etc . ( ohio ) ,
wow , EXCELLENT video, just quickly scrolled thru it , no %$#!! music or %@#$!! ads , ( i think , i hope !!),..( i,d get a tarp , and 4 sure , big pieces of cardboard 4 ground cover, save the body ) , we got an airstream , is that 1 for sale , and do you have any leads on ( airstream ) parts ?? ( and i should kalk n seal all the small gaps in it !! )... i'm allergic to SOME ,i think,.. of those flyin devills, ( diff. ones have diff. venom ),.. i nd 2 get a bee suit , so ,.. what brand/ model is yours and hows it holdin up ??. good thing they are honeybees , not the bad ^%#!! ones !!
My jacket with the round brimmed veil is from "hives 'n more" and have had it going on 10 years. The full suit is new from this year and I'm not sure of the brand off the top of my head. The important thing with any bee suit is that it is ventilated, and the slippers for the veil overlap each other and have a secondary velcro seal that covers and secures the zippers. Dr Voss and I do not use traditional beekeeping gloves, but 18mil thick rubber dishwasher type gloves. The bees have a hard time getting enough grip on the rubber to drive in stingers so less bees die from sting events. A bee dies after using her stinger as she basically disembowels herself to deliver the sting. We try to mitigate losses as much as possible since the removal process is so stressful and traumatic on the colony as is.
The Airstream camper in this video is not for sale, and I do not have a source for Airstream parts. I do have sources for 1973-1978 23' and 26' gmc motorhomes and parts though.
this was the most interesting removal I have seen part 2 when you get to flip the board over and you both get to keep working. One vacuuming and while you were cutting comb to put into the box. awesome
Yes it was... these bees were super aggressive. They changed their little attitudes after pulling up the whole colony on the plywood though. Queen located and captured in a clip in part 2!
@@Bandit19990 the ball bearing is on the clutch slave cylinder side (left side of the bike, the part that bolts to the inside of the cover the shift rod goes through.) Is sits inside the slave cylinder.
So its okay to pull the part with the screws straight out with the intent of breaking them? I stripped one of them and gave up halfway through the clutch job lol.
Those screws are usually already sheared off. If they aren't for some reason, and you have stripped the heads, you can try concussion forming with a hard Phillips #2 bit and a hammer, then try an impact tool on them. I mean a strike impact that you hit with a hammer to operate... you can pick one up at harbor freight for like 20$. If that doesn't work... you'll have to drill them out.
Need help!!2007 Honda Shadow 750 Aero /been sitting for 8 years /7900 miles!/All fluids changed, New battery of course and new carb/Fired up and runs great/engine oil light stays on during idle/Goes off and stays off when you give it gas and are riding it/changed pressure oil switch/didn't solve problem/Run 50/50 mixture of kerosene/oil twice thru engine/problem still not solved/What do you suggest I do next?
@user-tj7iw2ic6i check oil pressure at idle with a mechanical gauge. If it makes suitable pressure, check the oil pressure sensor circuit. If a 2 wire circuit, check the ground side for continuity and resistance. If the mechanical gauge test fails, the problem could still be a clog, or failing oil pump, or worst case scenario wear at the bottom end. Was there anything metallic in the oil when it was changed? Unfortunately, the only way to really test/check for bottom end damage is to pull the engine and do a full teardown. You can kind of test for rod journal/bearing wear by checking end plat at the piston while rocking the crank back and forth, but it does require some specialized tools and knowledge of metrology. If mechanical gague test fails, and electrical circuit test passes, the least expensive hail Mary attempt to fix would be replace the oil pump. That would not guarantee a fix. The pump itself might be making good pressure, but that pressure could be leaking internally. If it were my bike, I'd test with a mechanical gauge first. If it fails then I'd pull the engine and tear it down. Better to know what the problem is and fix it than be stranded in the middle of nowhere with an oil starved motor that locked up.
@raybeadlejr6838 when we do removals, we remove all of the bees and all comb. In most cases, we have to go back to the site after a couple days to vacuum a small cluster of "straggler" bees that were not present during the initial removal process. The average removal takes 8 hours including preparation, building a hive, apiary placement, and post removal care. It takes a full year before we can "harvest" honey from a removal colony. All colonies that we remove are placed on one of our permanent apiaries, and we manage and care for them perpetually. We maintain a 100% success rate on removals, and 97+% survival rate of removed colonies.
that looks like fun almost as fun as trying to get them out of a couch. The way they were buzzing the mic i was about ready to wave them away from my ear.
@user-bw7sn1ct7w this was much more difficult than any of the couch or recliner removals I have done. All the combs had to come out of the pipe in 1 piece since they were so long. Very nerve racking.
@oldCrow1957 the thorny privet was nothing compared to these bees. When I released the queen out of the clip into the hive yesterday late afternoon, they were even more aggressive than when we did the removal. Needless to say we don't need to worry about intruders out at the apiary lol. Trespassers will be violated by our bees 🐝 😀 😉
I was driving through southern KY a couple years ago with a U-Haul pulling a big car on a trailer, the sections of the road had turned into launch ramps where they join, sharply down then sharply back up. My trailer was becoming airborne at ~55 as I started slowing it down. On the last launch I heard a second crash after the trailer landed, pulled over at the next exit and found the front wheel straps on my '77 Ford LTD had somehow worked their way off the front tires, so the car briefly became airborne as well as the trailer.
Bad ignition switch? What tells the relay to turn off after it cycles? Or maybe a bad ground. To me it could be a repair you made came undone or you missed wire that is grounding out. The fuel pump, injectors and coils all run the same circuit but not getting 12v to injectors but 12v to pump and coil seems odd.
@TheBoggs576 the ignition switch seems to be operating like it is supposed to. Same with the engine run/kill switch. The repairs I made to the ignition pigtails are separated, hard soldered, and individually heat shrink shielded. I can't believe both repairs would fail in a way that both circuits only receive the same 2v of angry pixies. I think it is a bad spot where the injector circuit splits off from the rest of the circuit somewhere in the harness. Apparently these bikes are known for being sensitive to grounds going bad but my meter says I have good continuity from the ground side of the injectors to ground as commanded by the pcm.
have you been working on it all this time? Tracing them wires can be a pain. All I could think of is that one time my old GoldWing was running screwy on me and for some reason I hit the horn button and then it started acting better like there was something keeping the juice from running thru the system right. also Glad that that storm missed everyone in that area as it went in further east than they were predicting. Keep working it and you will figure out what is wrong with that bike and be able to get rid of it after it is running good for a while.
Just if anyone wondering ya can call yoshimura and they will resleeve it in factory for bout 100 bucks plus shipping i did it last week just saying if you have the extra cash. the same exact can un video
@Gallifrey2 if it does not sort out your issue, try posting a short video of what the bike is doing to your channel and reply here in the comments with the link. In many cases I can diagnose a problem from a video.
The basket, drum, and pressure plate are OK. I gotta order a fresh set of friction and steels, and new pressure plate springs tho. Gonna hold off on ordering those though until I figure out why it doesn't want to start now. I dug into the timing covers today and mostly verified it is still in time. Still need to do actual compression checks on cylinders and check for spark.
What a maroon as Bugs says...236mph you're on really good drugs. Also, HIGHLY doubt that's a Boss 351, automatic, NOT, also the brake pedal is for an auto.
This car was completely rebuilt 30ish years ago. Built 460, built c6, and a built rear end with tall gears. It was never a boss. Maybe get in the habbit of reading the comments and video description prior to chiming in. Like it or don't, but the calibrated police radar clocked this car at 236 on a 1 mile airport runway. I wasn't there, but that was the story the cop that clocked it told to the whole damn county way back when.
The queens rainbow in a Honeybee Colony is a sign of a healthy colony. A healthy colony promotes fruiting plant propagation. Everything we eat sources from fruiting/seeding plants. You owe your life to the queens rainbow in a very literal sense. Without the bees, we starve. I do not subscribe to any particular theism. Least of all Christianity. If the Christian god is omnipotent, omniscient, and omnipresent... he can not be good.
ohh yea!!! any idea how long those girls have been there. Looks like it has been a while. Some of those removals take a good while and the longer that they have been there the longer it takes to get them out.
Barring any deeper hidden issues with the motor or ecm... was there honestly any doubt 😆 🤣 The electrical repairs were pretty much remedial, but getting everything tore down to access what I needed was a pain in the a**. Next on the list is tear apart the front brake master cylinder. Might as well try and make the front brakes work while I'm waiting on the fairing fastener/hardware kit to arrive.
Hell no you got something in your blood to do that stuff if you would have hired me I had to be there at 6am i wouldn’t be there I would have called in sick 😂
We usually start a removal late in the day just as the sun is going down so that we can get most of the colony while they are settling down for the night. I was hooked the first time I opened up a wall and saw a colony had filled an entire 8ftx16in wall cell from floor plate to wall capper.
@user-bw7sn1ct7w oh the pump pickup screen... naaa I used a completely different fuel pump. I'm running it with no screen. There is a real fuel filter on the output side of the pump in the tank, and the new fuel pump doesn't bottom out in the well so it shouldn't pick up much trash. I have a sock filter set for it if it becomes a problem... but for $29 for that pump I don't really care. Rather have it open flow than cause a restriction by cramming a filter sock in the well.
I back sweeten in the fermenter so I can watch for exactly that. I just back sweetened this batch yesterday and so far so good. Alcohol content is high enough to kill off the d47 yeast. I learned my lesson messing with that rocket fuel producing ec-1118 lol. I never had a bottle burst, but did have a few volcanoes.
wow them girls are to busy to mess with you. glad that you got them calmed down. It did not matter how much room they had in the house any time we got a lawn mower near them they would come after us. There was that one time I needed to cut limbs near a hive, and when I tried to start the chain saw they would come after me, but if I started it not near them they would not bother me while it was running. It was a great idea to put the empty box on the bottom too.
I tested them last week by mowing close to the hives on the zero turn. Not even a single bee bothered me. These bees went from absolute hell beasts to kitty cats in a couple of weeks. Creating space between the full deep and full honey super promoted them to fill the new super. When bees run out of things to do they get aggressive. It's just a natural switch that gets flipped in their collective little bee brains. Hive gets packed in full of honey and pollen so it's time to go into "defend the resources" mode. I had some pretty gnarly hives in telferner but didn't know enough back then about what to do to chill them out. Oh hey! I found your blue pool cue case with the cue in it the other day. I stuck it in the garage on one of my toolboxes for next time you are down this way.
Africanized bees are unpredictable, that is a big problem with them. If these are truly Africanized honey bees, they will at some point, possibly for absolutely no reason, attack.
How long have you been a beekeeper that specializes in aggressive africanized bees? How many hives of wild bees do you maintain? I do this full time. Been working with africanized for over 10 years now. I currently maintain 200+ active wild bred colonies in a mix of top bar and standard langstroth setups. You are flat out wrong. All Honeybee behavior is predictable. It takes experience to know how to read a bee colony and adjust conditions to calm aggressive behavior. ANY honeybound hive can become aggressive, weather or not they have strong scutellata genetics. Russian and Buckfast bees can be just as pissy. It takes time and patience, but if you give them space in the right way... they will calm down enough to work the hive. The point in this video series is to show that it can be done. I do intend to requeen this hive with a queen drawn out from a more docile colony.
@@OccultEngineering Since 1991, in Arizona. We would never maintain a wild hive in Arizona, its dangerous. We requeen our Italian and a few others. I did watch your other video, they do appear to be africanized, All honey bees are an invasive species in the USA. There were no honey bees in Arizona before 1850. Leave the bee keeping to the big agricultural farms, they need them for their crops. we dont need them for our personal gardens. I am speaking from an Arizona point of view.
@chuckmiller5763 Beekeeping is my full time job. My partner and I do engage in pollination activities with our hives. Most of our time is spent removing colonies from peoples homes, garages, vehicles, equipment, chemical plants, etc. I studied under Dr Rangel and Dr Voss of A&M And VC respectively. Africanized bees are my specialty. In this region of Texas, we are the big boys. The hives featured in the videos are solely for personal use and to fulfill my folks request for hives on their hobby farm. I will likely never post video of our working apiaries.
@@OccultEngineering Africanized honey bees are invasive, and deadly. They have wiped out the other "non native" honey bees in Arizona and are decimating the native pollinators.
