@@iuopunderstandyourjokes9914 That VIN did not come up. And if you have had an engine swap this gets more difficult. Do you have a twin cam 6 cyl or V8?
You have a restriction in the accelerator circuit due to old gas, debris, or incorrect assembly. This guy has a great video that should help you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-c-YJdzhgrkw.html At 12:25 and 15:00 you will find him dealing with parts of the accelerator. Notice at 15:08 the accelerator jet has a flat area. The jet is indexed so the tiny hole in the jet is spraying into the intake. It is possible to install the jet wrong and this will affect the acceleration. If you take your carb apart like he has done and use Chemtool B12 spray carb cleaner you should be able to fix your carbs. Let me know if you have further questions.
hello i recently aquire this carb, but i was missing one of the pump jet weight and bearing. if you can help me out on the model number of this carburetor i will be greatfull
Hello, thanks for viewing and your question. Email me at ssimports@sbcglobal.net and I will email you parts diagram and part numbers for these Mikuni. Thank you, Will
That is very kind. I do my best to not get tongue tied and mumble. Then I try to convey what my brain is thinking and not stumble over the words. And then I try to not forget something I wanted to say. Thank you for viewing and commenting. Will
Yes, many people. I had to grind out some of the screws holding the throttle plates in place. People do not realize the screws are staked in place to keep them from backing out. Then after all these years the screws become rusted to the throttle shafts. It takes special effort to remove them correctly. Thank you for the compliment.
Interesting! Some questions though: 1) Why do only 2 of the 4 throats have a 'choke' flap (as opposed to a throttle flap deeper in the carb? 2) Why were you varying the engine revs with the choke levers, instead of setting the flap at, say, 60 degs or 45degs. and letting the engine high-idle during warm-up? (I assume this is what the driver would 'set' from inside the car? 3) If the choke flap IS set at , say 45 degs, and you rev the engine via the throttle spindle, what happens then, does it flood out / overfuel at 84 deg F?
Hello, All excellent questions. I have links to vids I made that should visually answer your questions. 1. Only 2 choke flap because these Solex only use 1st bbl until engine gets to about 3000 rpm and vacuum opens the 2nd bbl. 2nd bbl is inop until 3000 rpm and under load. Otherwise, 2nd bbl is closed. 2. The videos below, especially the 2nd one, will show you there is no 45 or 60 degree settings. The choke is a half circle. 3. No, does not flood out. The choke is manually operated via a cable. There is a knob on the dash that driver moves to set the choke depending on ambient temp and engine temp. Choke operation is totally controlled by driver. Thank you for questions. I hope I answered them for you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NECnGj8oA-w.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JvK92PPsOzI.html especially at 3:00 mark
Wow, that is so cool! I’ve never seen a test machine for a brake booster before! But then that booster is a unique old Mercedes design, and I’ve never worked on one that old. I’ve always liked the old Benzes, had an ‘83 300D turbo about 20 years ago, and I was very impressed with the robust design of the car.
Thank you for viewing and commenting. Yes, this is a very rare machine. It came out of a long time old time brake rebuilding shop. When I got it, the entire machine was covered in rust. I tore it down, had the body powder coated to match the original color, replaced the vacuum gauges, rebuild the hydraulic gauges (only found one video about them at the time), and rebuild the hydraulic pump that pressurizes the booster. Yes, the 300D is a wonderful car. Thank you, Will
Hi. Very interesting lesson video. I think these overhanging carbuetors have a support bearing then to the down part of the engine. Could you please make a demonstration on this?. And as I know, this support has different parts as the model year changes
I believe that you can set up the timing correctly by wether renewing the camshaft pulley that might be worn, wether adding a new woodruf key on the camshaft to re synchronise by 3° the pulley and the camshaft
Bonjour. Merci pour votre commentaire. Vous avez raison. Des clavettes d'arbre à cames décalées sont disponibles. Nous essayons de ne pas les utiliser. Au lieu de cela, nous mettons des cales sous l’arbre à cames pour maintenir une distance appropriée entre l’arbre à cames et le vilebrequin. Hello. Thank you for your comment. You are correct. Offset camshaft keys are available. We try not to use them. Instead we put shims under the camshaft to maintain proper camshaft to crankshaft distance. J'utilise Google Traduction. J'espère que c'est correct. I use Google translation. I hope it is correct. Merci pour les Jeux olympiques. Ils sont magnifiques. Thank you for the Olympics. They are magnificent. Je suis Will. I am Will.
Hi. I watched your video with a broad smile on my face. I liked and like the way you explain things in simple terms ( for the layman I am). Thank you much. For the Solex carburetor, I bought it in Germany with all its parts. Supposedly, it should have been working smoothly, as the guy told me it was repaired and ready to be installed. Anyway, Solexes are solexes. To answer you, I guess there are some five to ten 190 SLs in Morocco. Not many. For the seat adjusters, I could buy ( from Germany) some needed parts to replace the broken ones including the rubbers. It was more economical : 130 Dollars instead of 720 (roughly speaking. If your db50 white colour 190 SL is yours, I want to tell you that it's a beautiful classic colour and that mine is also of this colour, and that I resisted many friends who recommended me to opt for metallic grey. Thank you again.
Glad you liked the video and hope it was helpful. White 190SL is customer's car. Yes, it is very nice. Let me know if you need more help on your Solex. 5-10 190SL's in Morocco is more than I imagined. Great to know you have that many. You should do a video showing your car and talking about it. Thanks, Will
Hi, I'm Nabil of Morocco. I have some issues with my solex carburetor on my 1959 190 SL. The issue is that it has a very high and noisy idle as it stands at the number 20, but when I accelerate with dead weight once or twice, the car calms down and the idle goes between sevent and twelve. So what to check.
Hello Nabil, thank you for viewing and your question. Here is link to video I made for you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X_i9MZB7rHk.html I hope this helps. Thanks, Will
Hey Ray, thanks for viewing and asking. Negative, do not rebuild downdraft carbs any more. I send them to Just Carburetors in Miami, FL. Tell them I sent you. Thank you. Will
My brake fluid comes out of the air filter end when I push the brake pedal, can these seals etc still be purchased? hopefully meaning brake fluid hasn't got to the vacuum can.
Hey Wayne, thanks for the question. If you are talking about this specific booster, and brake fluid is coming out of the air filter on the back, you got a more than serious internal leak. Yes, the booster is probably full of brake fluid. And the vacuum parts of the booster are not designed to handle brake fluid. So, they are slowly dissolving. And those parts are very hard to find. If the booster is full of fluid that meant someone had to keep adding fluid to the reservoir. If so, that should have been a red flag. Give me more info and/or post a video of what the booster is doing. Thanks, Will
@@Mercedes-Guru Hi Will, Thanks for the reply, I believe they are T50 servos however the type fitted onto the BMW 2002 1971 model year. There's two remotely fitted on UK RHD cars and since having the Brake master cylinder, clutch master Cylinder, and slave cylinder rebuilt, one of the servos now pours out when the brake pedal is pushed, I have uploaded a short vid showing the leak in action! ru-vid.comxjFF_icXe3E?si=PLgyraZJe05iaN8_ Kind Regards Wayne
Hey there, thanks so much for your vast amounts of knowledge - I’ve been using this channel heaps to work on my 1956 220S. I’ve acquired this car recently and it is missing some of the brake components, such as the brake master cylinder including push rods etc - I was wondering whether you could show me what the brake pedal assembly should look like from underneath and how it operates as I don’t have any of the components on my vehicle and don’t know what I need to purchase in order to put it all back together. Much appreciated again!
I will do my best. I am a bit behind on video requests. Also, I don't have access to an actual 220S. I only have 190SL's in the shop. But, I believe they are basically the same. Your car is early enough that it might not have come with a power brake booster. Can you confirm? The reason is there are 2 different master cylinders for cars with and without booster. Also, I assume you have the brake pedal in the car? Thanks, Will
I think I talked to Todd some years ago. But, the manual is one I purchased new from Beth at Mikuni America many years ago and the notes are mine. Thanks for viewing and commenting. Will
Hey Nabil, thank you. Actually, better than new. I recently rebuilt a low mileage set that did not require machine work. But, they were poorly assembled from the factory and never operated correctly. I was able to correct many mistakes. The Solex in this video received full machine work. The quality of machine work when these were made in the 1950's-60's France was not very good. We now use 5 axis CNC to essentially blue print the carbs to exceed factory quality. Good to hear from you. It was 40C in Dallas today. How about you? Will
Hi. I meant like new from the outside. Well cleaned. You do great job with this French product to preserve it. Far better than swapping it. Not as hot as hot here in Nador, east of Morocco
@@NabilAMRAOUI-i8m Yes, I have been planning to do it. Give me more information on your hinges. That will direct my area of concentration in the video. If you wish, email photos of your seats and hinges to ssimports@sbcglobal.net I have several cars here with completed hinges and several seats that are taken apart to use as examples for you.
@@Mercedes-Guru Do you work on Solex 44PHH's that were on other engines besides Mercedes? I have three of these on my 64' Alfa Romeo 2600 Spyder that I'm looking to have some work done on. Thanks. -Jim
Hey Carl, good to hear from you. With a rear axle, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Most home DIY owners can replace the rubber boot with a split boot, input flange seal, and outer axle seals. And even remove the trailing arms to replace the rubber bushings. (BTW, we have those bushings in polyurethane, which is an upgrade compared to OEM rubber). Otherwise, tearing the reax axle down requires lots of knowledge and an array of parts.
Yes, and here are those vids.: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uyWzQUufCn8.html&pp=ygUcc2lnbmFsIHNlZWtpbmcgcmFkaW8gKyB3ZnM1Mg%3D%3D ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uulMNUliAwk.html&pp=ygUcc2lnbmFsIHNlZWtpbmcgcmFkaW8gKyB3ZnM1Mg%3D%3D
Hello there, i have a 1982 mazda Rx-7 with a single mikuni solex 44PHH on a 13B mazda Rotary engine, it was running well until a week ago i took it to a track day and now it seems to be rather rich at idle, ive watched a number of your technical videos and have checked and cleaned all my jets, mixture screws and they're bores and needle/seat and can confirm that the needle and seat is holding 2-2.5 psi of fuel pressure no problem, is their another component that pertains to the idle circuit im overlooking? The last week has been considerably more humid and hot than ive ever experienced the car in as i purchased it in September of 23' could the weather be effecting the carb that much?
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mKDcQXluZSM.html&pp=ygUTbWlrdW5pIGNhcmIgKyB3ZnM1Mg%3D%3D; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Hj34nq_4kpA.html&pp=ygUTbWlrdW5pIGNhcmIgKyB3ZnM1Mg%3D%3D; Hey Jack, Thanks for viewing and your question. It sound like you have covered all the bases. But JIC I have links to my Mikuni vids. You might need to contact Mikuni to get access to a variety of jets: mikuni.com/ I have not seen these carbs be that temperature sensitive. The most trouble I ever had was the main jets backing out by themselves. What I don't understand is the correlation between well before a track day and after. I don't know that the carbs would care if they were used on the street or the track. I'll ponder it a bit. Let me know if you find anything. Thanks, Will
Nope, no sealant. Won't do any good. If you had a fuel leak and tried to use sealant, the gasoline would eventually dissolve the sealant. Best way is to make sure all mating surfaces are flat and true and use OEM gaskets.
Thanks fro viewing. But the adjuster is only on side draft Solex. It will not be on your Mikuni. Try this vid instead: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Hj34nq_4kpA.html
Hey Sam, thanks for viewing and commenting. No, do not have vid on assembly. It would take many hours of video time that i would need to edit. At this time I do not have a video editing app on the computer. The last one I had was a nightmare to use. If you or anyone can recommend a video editing app, please let me know. Thank you, Will.
Going from memory: 9mm wide clamps, 6 for radiator hoses, 6 for heater duct on either side of engine bay (but only 2 on the duct hoses to the firewall defroster vents); 5mm wide 14 for small diameter heater hoses off engine, to firewall pipes, to heater cores, 4 fuel tank vent tube, 2 air cleaner hose (yes, large diameter air cleaner hose uses 5mm), 2 under dash for brake booster vacuum tube, 2 for brake booster vacuum tube to rear of intake manifold. Strap usually comes in bulk, so you just have to buy as much as you think you need. I would guess 4m. I hope this helps.
Hi. Me again Nabil From Morocco Very thankful to you for your videos. All of them are interesting and pertinent. I'm working on the steering wheel from within the cab, installing the contact plate. The chrome round part of the steering wheel got to llose. My electrician didn't install a round copper part that comes beneath and is telling me it doesn't fit. Could you make a demonstration for me on this
Hello Nabil. We had big storms here. I was without electricity for 5 days. Thank is why it took me this long to respond. Remind what year and car you have again.
@@Mercedes-Guru Hi. I wish and hope you were not affected much by the storm. Ihave a 190 sl of 1959. Thank you. And please, when you have time, make also a video on cabin heating system, air duct, blower etc. Thank you much. Be safe
Hola amigo, tengo una duda, los rocker arms se puede lijar para quitar el desgaste pero cuánto se puede limar? Mi Mercedes tiene demasiado desgaste y además acá no hay refacciones, estos rocker arms se pueden reparar de algún modo? Saludos desde México
Years of cruising Ebay and literature sites. I would purchase old manuals, tech books, etc. See if this link helps: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=ignition+distributor+books&_sacat=0&_odkw=ignition+distributor+specs&_osacat=0
In KC a friend neighbor had a tune shop ,had been a speed shop until they were shut down Don Garlitz would bring him 3 magnetos to check he used that sun dist machine
FYI - Shifter boot install problem at the end of the video. After shredding several boots myself trying to force the chrome cover over the boot, I went to the MB Manual. The correct sequence is laid out pretty clearly. The chrome cover goes on first, THEN the boot. When seated properly the cover reveals the groove that accepts the lip on the bottom of the boot. The boot actually sits in the grove, on top of the chrome cover. Very simple once the assembly sequence is correct. Bill A.