I grew up around mechanics my father is a diesel and gas master mechanic my uncle's were shade tree mechanics.... I've been working on engines since I was six, started out on lawn mower engines then onto bigger ones, there are a lot of tricks to the trade that come along with experience, you do it long enough you'll figure them out... But outright this video is very informative for those DO IT YOURSELFERS,
Do anyone know how to take the torque screw off when the solenoid is centered in the middle w/out taking the intake covers off? The long torque tool seems to go sideways when reached the torque screw. Thanks if anyone knows how 👊
I stumbled on to this video trying to use my portable jumper on my 2018 Ford Escape. With my old 2001 Mazda Tribute, it took 2min. It took me a good 15min to figure out how to fit my smaller than standard + cable in the less than 2in space above the + battery connector. Must be that visual/spacial deficiency in women. I'm also supper annoyed at how much is involved in removing the battery to take in the house to charge😡. But thanks for the video though, I think I got it.👍
Please note that it proper and safer to connect the positive cable to the battery first, then connect the negative. Removing: disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive. This method reduces the chance of sparks, arcing, and shorting.
My passenger side doesnt have the tab cutout. I cant get the sensor out because the screw and tab wont fit through it. Took a mic to it and it is fatter in circumference than the new sensor. Do i have to remove the valve cover?? Hate ford...
I have a 2005 and was showing a P0012 code. Supposedly the VCT solenoid. Looked like an easy fix like the video, but for some reason my 05 had different valve covers with the much smaller vct holes. I couldn't do it this way. Valve covers had to come off. I've heard of other people on the forums and Facebook groups with the same issue on the earlier models like mine. It figures. Anyway, if you have the smaller holes with the recessed seal, not like this one with the lip on the seal, you cant do it this way. But good video otherwise for the people it'll work for. And of course only use OEM Ford vct solenoids.
Awesome video! I’m looking at a similar truck right now. My concern is it may be too big to daily drive. I have a vehicle for work but if I need to get groceries and what not. What are your thoughts?
I didn't mention the 2002 Ford F-150 pickup has a 5.4 L motor in it but it does not have a VCT solenoid mounted in the valve covers do all 5.4 l in 2002 have BCT solenoid or not
I have a 2002 Ford F-150 King Ranch Edition pickup and I believe the VCT solenoid is bad but it's not in the valve cover where is it can anybody tell me is it under the valve cover
Any advice on how to remove one from an 08 with the smaller hole in the valve cover without taking off the valve cover? Mine is too much of a pain to get to. Thank you.
detergent oils will wash away the zinc that protects your engine from metal to metal contact....how!! ever!! for a daily driver running less that 2700RPM which is about 70 MPH and keeping your engine at normal oil pressure and temperature,so conventional oil is just fine especially changing the oil at every 3000 miles vs 5000 or more will last many many miles before a rebuild, my 360 ford was rebuilt for the 1st time after 40 years and its been 14 years since my 69 f250 360 was rebuild and is running like a top and your will too!!
Sir, so, the reason for replacement was because of noise generated from the original parts, how many miles were on those VCT Solenoids. and OEM Part are Control Solenoid x2 8L3Z-6M280-B-OEM and Valve Cover Seal Gaskets x2 3L3Z-6C35-AA Thank You.
No way was I screwing around with my wipers and all the plastic clips of the tray when all you have to do is pull out the air filter box and unclip the front of the battery box to slide the battery out of the front of the battery box.
Bumpside lover here, have a 70 also and others, any resources for parts from 67 72 I try to find original as opposed to new. Perhaps you know someone who parts out these gems. PS very Nice Truck!
2006 Lariat doesnt seem to have that removable seal. Means I have to unbolt a dozen things, remove the valve cover, change it and put the engine back together..... Thanks A LOT Ford!
Thank you SO much for this video. Getting ready to replace one on my brother's old 2005 Triton. It keeps stalling intermittently on him, and this was one of 2 codes (other being fuel sensor), and I've never done one of these before, so, I was nervous until I saw this video. Thanks again buddy!😊
Did the original oil drain bolt come with a 17mm head size for the oil pan drain bolt? And did the original come with a copper or nylon crush washer? The reason I'm asking is, someone striped my mom's drain bolt on a 2013 x5, and they re-tapped it with a M14x1.5 bolt, and they put a 13mm head size bolt into it. I know the drain bolt head size they put in is smaller than what is was before since i could see the previous mark from the original bolt. Ever since they did that it's been leaking from the crush washer area. So I'm thinking if i can get a drain bolt with the same head size and crush washer that came with the car from the manufacturer than that should solve the problem. I wished they gave my mom the original bolt back, but unfortunately they didn't.
07 5.4 the solenoid won't fit through the hole. The videos make it look easy bc they have the larger hole in valve cover. Has anyone seen a video with the smaller holes? The solenoids came with grommets with both...
The video is spot on except for one issue. Instead of trying to kung-fu the wiper blade arms, rent a jaw puller instead. I rented (they actually loaned it to me) a EverTough Pulley/Gear Puller - 67020 from O'Rielly Auto Parts. I STRONGLY suggest you try that, as I saved $57.00 paying my mechanic to install my replacement battery, but now I have to shell out $340.00 because I cracked the windshield trying try pry the wiper arm up, as kung fuing it did not work. Also, used some kind of white marker (I used White Out) to mark the post and the wiper arm so you can line them up when you go to re-attach the wiper arms. Other than that, this was a great tutorial for replacing a battery on a 2016 Ford Escape.
Too bad FORD stopped production. The rumor was going around back in 2004-05 that sales were bad for the Excursion. GM, was smart with their merchandising putting that word out. The truth is Ford dealers sold everyone they had on the lot. Just think about it. If sales was so bad why are the Excursions so popular now over any GM suburban? Between GM advertising department and the little greenie folks that want us on horse and buggys got Fords weak spot and stopped the production. Love Ford trucks but Ford makes some very stupid decisions in their corporate meetings, they have trouble hearing the customer, stop listening to the greenies and the idiot politicians.
Those ficm needs good batteries all the time, never change 1 battery. If 1 is bad then replace both. 850 cold crankers. You also should be changing your oil every 3k and it wouldn’t hurt to replace the fuel filters at every oil change. If you can. As injectors are expensive
My truck runs and sounds fine but periodically it starts to knock and sound like absolute shit. Sure enough, it threw a P0022 which is the VCT solenoid.
