Welcome to my 2003 Nissan 350z Build/Restoration! Here you can expect to find helpful DIY mods & How to's to get the job done as we go through my journey to revitalize this project build. If your a fellow Z owner I hope you enjoy my content and if needed find the support you need by viewing my videos.
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i just bought a 350z and it has that manifold but i’m confused bc i see comments saying you don’t need a tune and my friends are saying i do need a tune bc it’s gonna run to lean and can mess up the engine. would help a lot if you game me an answer since you know way more about this car then i do
Thank you bro, Honestly it runs fine and on this vehicle the only time you would have to anticipate an actual tune is if you remove the cats. Otherwise stock ecu would adjust accordingly, Not to worry brother your good, but like with all mods a tune is always welcomed🙌🏼
Apologies as I can't write in spanish but lets try this! lol... Its not only for turbo, great for NA set ups as well and no a tune is not required with this mod. Its a slight step up from a plenum spacer. Hope this helps!
NGL there is some slight vibration but you definitely get use to it. I've had many worst experiences with solid mounts on other setups but on this vehicle the engine is alot smoother so it blends well but won't be as quiet/smooth as OEM. It's something you get use to and will certainly love the function it provides. Hopes this helps brother, I'd say go for it!🙌🏼
Have a 2016 328i bmw and have staggered wheels myself. 225/45r18 in front and 255/40r18 in back. Basically same tire size besides the 30mm width. But I know what you mean. Fortunately I have staggered rims And glad my front is 225 cause wouldn't like Both 255s
I came looking for filling my transmount. I did this with my 1996 Saturn SC2's dogbones and Hondabond since urethane mount went available. It worked great. Going to fill the new aftermarket mount as I couldn't justify spending $150+ for a urethane mount. I am doing all the suspension parts along with Energy Suspension's rack bushings and differential mounts.
Lol we come from the same old school techniques brother... but yup thats the way to go... I did my entire suspension with the energy suspension master kit along with the diff bushings... you will not regret it ✨
Does this also mess with your car starting? I keep having this issue and every now and then my car will crank or start slowly, sometimes so slow it doesn’t act like it’s gonna start at all. I doubt it’s my battery because my lights aren’t dim at all, but I smell raw fuel sometimes when I drive my car same as you, but it stops me from filling my car up when I’m squeezing the nozzle even if my car is low on gas and I haven’t even put $10 worth of gas in. It says it can’t hold anymore and gives me a click on the nozzle. I’ve tried other pumps too same issue. Not sure what my problem is. Could use some guidance.
Hey Jordan, most likely if you had low fuel pressure or any of the other parameters were disturbed you may just get a CEL... but it does sound like a battery issue, i understand the light measurement for a battery but I would have it checked just to rule it out first then navigate from there. Lmk brother, I’d love to see a follow up💯🙏🏼
Hey brother, just take a screen shot of my vid and show a local exhaust shop that you just want to remove the muffler and create a short pipe to exit (that way they don’t try to over sell you by trying to make it seem more complicated lol)... However if u in New york just go to a muffler shop and tell em i want a muffler delete and they know what to do lol
Hey brother, definitely check out your local autozone. Even amazon I would guess would have them in stock. Just wish they had a stainless steel model 😫 lmk if you find it in stainless steel during your searches 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Hey brother, my nismo springs? No, they're absolutely perfect for my set up, stiffer and ride height is all around just what I was seeking, true love lol
Hey brother not really on this one... Just backing out the pedal alil or pushing it fwd and got it thru... Hope you figured it out brother lmk if anything🙌🏼
Hey brother, I watched your video when you installed the kinetix manifold. I installed it as well on my 04 350Z and my strut bar was rubbing on the strut bar. I went ahead and purchased a soul strut brace which unfortunately was also rubbing. I added washers/spacers and I can’t add anymore without replacing the bolts because it barely catches thread. I added the amount of spacers which was 3 that allows me to catch thread. I can only fit a small piece of paper in between for clearance, but it still rubs ever so slightly on the right. Any thoughts?
to be honest brother I never placed my strut bar back on 🙈lol but interesting... I may check mine out this weekend just to test the waters n get back to you... any success since?
I just spent lime 4½ hours replacing the master cylinder, clutch line, slave cylinder, and put in dot 4. The bleeding process was terrible. I didn't realize that a car could be such a pain. I gravity bled it, I pressure bled it, I made sure there was no leaks. It's pretty much good but I ran out of time today and there is still some air in the system..
After doing my own and helping my boys I kinda became an expert on the Z 🤣💀... but i’ll make a future follow up vid... gravity bleed then manual bleed, i found this to be the best way to go about it for the Z specifically... pump 10 times, hold, then release/close the bleeder valve... do it for over half a large bottle (alittle over 16oz) and you should be good... if you have a power bleed like myself I run it thru first for a few rounds then leave it at around 5psi so I dnt have to constantly keep filling the reservoir while bleeding manually. Hope this helps bro 🙌🏼
Did you have issues with the stock strut bar? My oe strut bar is rubbing with the kinetix. I took it off and trying to find an alternative. Any thoughts?
Hey brother just seeing this... Try turning it back and forth, then pull it out while rotating it left to right at the same time. Lmk if that helps brother🤙🏼🤙🏼
No worries bro, Its a general rule. Usually reflects temperatures have increased to a certain amount during cycling and the fans work to cool the coolant to bring down/maintain operating temp... But as long as you getting proper heat and your not overheating brother you should be good to go 🏁
Why the negativity my guy... We definitely put in the works differently cause theres No Rattles over here, In fact if you in NY dm me on IG and u can check it out at the next car meet. Sorry yours turned out that way.
How in the world are you getting your room to sit flush on the wheel spacer if the OEM bolts are sticking out past the edge of the spacer? That looks extremely dangerous
LOL brother its completely safe... Remove a rim, most especially aftermarket has alot of clearance spots on the inside allowing it to sit flush just as if its factory. Nothing different or alarming🤘🏼
Hey brother, So if you looking for the clevis and push rod distance on the CMC. I found it set from factory so no need to adjust tbh (if you get one from the dealer) but if u need to measure it out, its 110.5 mm (4.35 in). Check out the IG & Hope that helps brother!
Just wanna say thank you, I followed all your steps and managed to get it done. I did run into an issue when bleeding where the slave wouldn't take the fluid from the lines. Just simply submerge it in the fluid and pump the end with the bleed nipple open and it will give you something to work with then bleeding the generic way👍🏼
Most welcome my brother Appreciate you! With regards to the fluid not going thru the lines. I touched on that towards the end of the vid (gravity bleeding). Gravity bleed it the next time first, its a must for this set up, it takes a few moments but once you have the fluid running thru by itself you can start normal bleeding procedures🤘🏼
Well if the sensor backs out, surely. Alot of variables can play into that, excessive vibration, backing out of distance spec etc. So it maybe a possibility, I wouldn't definitively say no. Hope that helps brother👍🏼
Thanks bro! If it's the motive bleeder I just used the original adapter that came with it... with regards to using it on the clutch, dnt forget to gravity bleed first and following that get in a few manual pumps... but for the brakes, lol its str8 heaven🙌🏼
Hey brother hope all is well... This is for the HR engine VQ35HR... However what you maybe looking for is the VQ35DE "REV UP" Edition and for you my brother check my other vid here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_LoodYFcDsI.html It has everything you need GL and feel free to DM on IG if anything🤘🏼
Hey my guy so its actually holding up well. Like I said in other replies I wish I had coated it or wrapped lol cause it is rusty but she still running🤘🏼
Hey Frankie, No you don't brother... You can loosen it from the bottom where it attaches to the subframe for both the pass and driver side and remove the one needed from there after jacking it up and then set into place as normal. *Always suggested to replace both but hey to each their own brother enjoy gl and lmk if anything 🤙🏼
Np brother most welcome... Wrote that quick but being as you around let me go over it real quick... First Break loose and remove top nut from driver side motor mount... Then remove bottom bolt that holds it to the subframe... Go over to the passenger side and break loose the Nut that holds the mount to the subframe as well. From there you can jack up the engine and the driver side mount will fall out while the passenger one stays attached the the engine bracket. Put your new passenger mount in, slowly jack down the engine and make sure both passenger and driver side studs fall into alignment with the subframe and passenger top stud to bracket. Feel free to hit me up on IG when the time comes. But like a day before so I have a heads up incase ya need me around lol 🙌🏼🙏🏼
@@SimplyEddieG for sure sounds good! Appreciated... so just to be sure, for passenger side I only need to remove the bottom nut right? Thank you in advance
Yes n most welcome... According to what you want to accomplish that is the right move. Your spot on brother. Just the bottom nut for the passenger side. Just review the video before beginning once more for a ground wire to be aware of any other minor brackets. Really not much to it. It'll be an easy job for you as the Passenger side tends to be the hard one sometimes when u have to remove the engine bracket as in my case cause of a seized nut 😅
Any tips for loosening the nut that connects the hardline and the softline? I have thread breaker and the flanged 10mm and mine isnt even rusted and I still cant break the nut.
Hey brother just spray it with some penetrating oil let it sit and then throw that 10mm flange on... You can add another 10mm wrench on the end for more leverage and break it loose from there... Sounds like you should wear some gloves though just to be safe from some nicks... alot of force in a tight space 😬 lol be safe brother n lmk if anything!
I would think drilling out the stock bush and just press in urethane and use stock sleeve. pretty creative, I just dont like how soft the stock bushing is,I used a Z1 mount, fit perfect, feels good....good vid, option to consider compared to the $129 Z1. Diff brace is also a good addition to the the drivetrain.
Hey brother Thanks for that and glad you enjoying that Z1 mount 🙌🏼🙌🏼 Yea to remove the stock pin, clean it up, clean up the interior of the mount, to then find a urethane sized to fit perfect as the original sleeve position or attempt to fill and position the sleeve and hope it dries in the right spot.... Yea thats tooo tiring for me lol and will take alot of work for not much results tbh... I'd stick to my $5 mod lol... and Yes haven't gotten around to the vid but if you check out the IG, Diff brace is installed, solid, and makes a difference in shifting too I ❤ it and will buy it again.
Definitely will need a hanger brother... Without a tip? Idk about that look, but hey to each their own, GL my brother but try getting a tip that fits you, it will look alot better trust me🙏🏼
Great video. I’m currently in the process of fixing a fuel leak with my z. Did not see anything in the bay or underneath the car like you had said. I’m just wondering what we’re all of the steps you took to get to the sensing unit. I want to to properly go through the steps to diagnose my issue. TIA
Hey Gabriel, usually if its a bad leak you may find traces of gas on the outer perimeter of leak location once you start to smell it. For myself, once tracing back from the engine bay I pulled the cover and noticed what you saw in the vid along with an aroma. Is this what you are facing as well the strong gas smell? For me in particular I smelled it after fill up and taking a turn... The splashes within the tank must of caused a slight leak that evaporated fairly quick but created a lasting smell. I have had fuel injectors leaks with past vehicles, but that is an ez find when car is running. It can always be fixed but if anything feel free to hit me up on IG while u tracing through it so we can chat more. GL! 🤙🏼🤙🏼
OMGG 🤣😂🤣💀 Waking up the neighbors is part of the daily grind uh? lmao sheeshhh thats gonna be loud brother enjoy! and lmk how it comes out with that set up 🏁🏁🏁
Hey brother Glad you found it helpful... If I was a new to the game I would look for resources to figure out how to replace... But changing a belt to me is copy and paste or plug and play I should say lol... Sometimes you may need sequence such as installing your plenum, but belts, Not much to it tbh, remove and install 🤙🏼
Hey Chace, Just a few turns and you'll see it bubble out but you can also remove it at first (if experienced in bleeding), if not, just stay to loosening a few turns. Hope that helps brother DM on IG if anything 🤙🏼
Absolutely! Every aspect of it is better. Simpler design, Strength, Performance. Just overall it's better in every way. If you restoring your Z you'll appreciate the openness it provides and easy removal compared to 20+ bolts when needed. To this day I still recommend. 🏁
