There is no fall protection at the edge of a roof in the way you are attached to the safety rope. Keep your fall protection rope behind you or in front of you at all times. Remember this: You can fall off the side of a house also. Invest in a top ladder "Walk Through" set-up. ($250).
roof painters dont use this system we have up to 10 ropes anchored to get the job done smarter the rope grab we have opens to go from rope to rope lanyards are a no to heavy for the steeper roofs wat yr teaching is for real beginners who dont know anything
Brett, you are obviously well intentioned and want to keep people safe, so I really don’t want to be critical or offensive. That said, there are many serious safety issues with your series of videos that will place yourself and others in legal jeopardy, and at risk of serious injury or death. Others have been critical of your methods, but not offered an explanation. Seeing as you haven’t corrected the issues (or removed the videos), I can only imagine that you have not taken their criticisms seriously. Below is why they are correct. This is why it is important for workers and supervisors to receive proper training, and why the internet can in many instances be a bad source for accurate information. Some of the most glaring issues are: 1. Harness fitting - Your harness is adjusted incorrectly. Your chest strap is far too loose and low, if you body becomes inverted during a fall, the shoulder straps could well separate. There is a plastic loop on your harness that is designed for your snap hook, when not used for fall protection. This is designed to break free should you become snagged for any reason. Clipping on to your harness webbing, in addition to the snag risk, will cause abrasion and prematurely limit the life of your harness. 2. Anchorage Points- Chimneys should not be used as anchorages, because although bricks can sustain a very high compression load, but are very weak (comparatively) when exposed to side forces. What is happening here is the worker is essentially relying on the mortar as an anchor. An average male can generate about 3000 lbs of force over a 2 foot drop. This is why (in my jurisdiction fall arrest anchors have to be rated for 5000 lbs minus the pre-existing load, or 2 times the maximum arrest force. Imagine building a wall, tipping it on it’s side and then parking a 3000 lbs vehicle on it- The mortar will obviously not hold. This is why chimneys are terrible anchors, unless you want to fall, and have a significant portion of a chimney fall on you. 3. Lifeline- Additionally, any bend will decrease the tensile strength of a given rope, multiple bends will compound this phenomenon. As a matter of fact, your rope’s manual will tell you to attach the snap hook to a compatible anchor point. 4. Swing fall is not considered in this video. 5. Rope grabs - Do not hang on to your rope grab whilst moving, if you fall your hand has a tendency to grip on the rope grab, this is called a suicide grip or death grip. Feed a small amount of slack, let go of your rope grab then move. It is true that some rope grabs have panic stops, they are designed to stop you if you perform a death grip. These panic stops work with a greater or lesser degree of effectiveness. If you are in a habit of never holding on to your rope grab, it does not matter if your rope grab is equipped with a panic stop or not. If your rope grab has a panic stop you are not reliant on it. I feel like you are well intentioned, but it is clear that you are not adequately trained nor have you read the manuals for the equipment your are employing. Please for goodness sakes, take these videos down, and/or remake them after you have received proper instruction. I hope you would be concerned that someone should get hurt whilst taking your advice.
Great instructions. What do you think about the do it yourself roof climber such as me leaving permanent anchor points on their roof for the next time. Both in tin and tiled roofs?
Randy Goldberg Thanks, just trying to keep people safe. My suggestion is to have an adequately trained tradesperson perform the work, this is not always feasible due to a number of factors. I would strongly suggest taking a fall protection course from a qualified instructor. The difficulty with permanent anchor points is that (in my jurisdiction at least) they must be inspected yearly by a qualified engineer. There are specific anchor points designed for metal roofs, that clamp into standing seams. As for tile roofs, there are many anchors designed to be fit under the ridge caps or tiles. An alternative might be to anchor appropriately to the joists and bring an an adequately protected lifeline through a roof vent. A good starting point is to check in with your local safety equipment retailers. As always, seek competent training and follow manufacturers’ instructions. I’m sorry I can’t be of more help without being better educated with your local regulations and specific hazards. Good luck!
That doesn't quite look like the typical red terracotta brick chimney. Those big chimneys usually are put together with framing. So him using it as a anchor point would most likely be sufficient. You including in the sing fall doesn't really apply to the area he's working in. It's pretty much a straight shot to his work area. He's keeping his rope tight, it's moreso fall restraint than fall arrest in this scenario. Now if he was going all over the roof, he would have to get anchor brackets and take off a few pieces of cap next to a rafter, install it, and so fourth. Falls happen when the person using them aren't using them correctly, aren't keeping the rop grab tight, aren't paying attention to where the anchor point is in relation to where they're working. Etc etc. I get that you trying to put your two sense in but I've been doing roofing for 5 years now and have had to do my fall protection twice, along with commercial fall protection plans on high rises. I know what I'm talking about from experience.
Come on, look at the person in the back ground! Not only that the ladder should be used with the feet on a speader board on the floor top stop it sinking into the ground. Over 3m it should also be tied off or footed,. Big fail.
What he did wrong and should be the first is check to make sure of damage etf that is more important than putting it on stay safe check your stuff first
You can't lower yourself or get yourself down either. With roof work you need to have a ground guy present at all times, and call 911 immediately if someone were to fall. The fire department trains for this type of rescue (and 1 ground guy probably will be incapable of rescueing someone honestly) and it is absolutely critical to the fallen worker's health and life to call 911 immediately and get the worker down in less than 10 minutes as it becomes deadly after hanging for 10 minutes. The presure of the harness will cut of circulation in the legs. The reality, if soneone falls off roof with a harness on, they are going to the hospital
@@resultspaid7250 It's against regulations to tie off around this chimney anyways. You have to use an approved D-ring attached (properly) to structure or use a beam strap wrapped around a strong enough anchor point (like a tree stump) on the opposite side of house. Against regs to wrap the rope around anything and tie to itself.
Further to Sean Nitzen’s point. Bricks can handle high compression load, but not lateral loads. Imagine the chimney on it’s side and parking a 5000 pound vehicle on it, do you think that the mortar is strong enough to hold the load? What do you think might happen if you fall and apply 3-5K pounds on lateral force on the chimney? Hitting the ground would sick, having the chimney fall upon you after will seal the deal.
If we ignore the anchor point, the height of the ladder above the contact point and the rule of the three points of contact, I have only one comment to do. The working task would be safer if your rope and the use of the fall arrester were starting from the ground. Be safe.
Love the video. Love the walk thru! Comments: Ladder's not tied off. (bungee cord wrapped around one side of the ladder one or more complete revolutions and attached to the gutter edge is fine) Ladder should have a minimum of 2 rungs above the roof edge Ladder is not contractor grade.
@@goingoingone8667 I think you have to anchor going up. The big boys tie a rope to their car then throw it from the other side of the house. That way from the moment you step off the ladder you are attached to the harness. I would appreciate it if marshmellow would give us more information.
Ok so let's say you have a metal roof where do you put the anchor? This is the first video that at least do something. All video I saw are for asphalt.
Generally, I like your video. Great instructions on properly securing a rope grab - you've cleared up a lot of pitfalls that many workers experience. A few recommendations on the video:-the anchor is to be secured using the type and number of fasteners as recommended by the manufacturer, which may or may not be what you used. It is very important to just follow instructions to get the 5000 lbs hold strength. -while adjusting the harness, the chest strap should be at about the breastbone. It's not absolutely necessary, but the straps will settle themselves in the course of a fall, and it could hurt to have the strap slide up by itself with the fall velocity.
I mean a chimney of that size would most likely be able to hold his weight. It's when it gets to small brick chimneys where you should not attempt that.
Its great to see people, educating and trying to push the boundaries of working at height safer. this technique seems to be not very useful though, far too long messing about trying to install while you are unprotected, stood upright on the peak of a roof.
One alternative is the tie a loop on ground and use a long extension pole to put the loop over the chimney. Then you are protected when climbing up with a harness system.
(1) Because you are carrying up your paint can and brush, you can not possible maintain 3 point contact while climbing the ladder (2) Your ladder does not extend 3' above the landing surface...Question - What if there was no chimney? Where would you tie off to? What can support 5,000 lbs. up there?
