Thank you that fixed my issue. I had been dealing with this for a few days. Anyone know what it stopped working to begin with? I don’t know what happened battery didn’t die so not sure why this happened.
Just did this today. Easy fix. I was having the same problem with my dash lights and this fixed it. Trying to keep my 2006 running as long as possible.
Hi Dan, so the r134 fitting itself fits on the car fitting. What about the nitrogen bottle end? Does the ac recharge set fit straight on the nitrogen bottle or do you need to buy adapters?
@@polkypolky8879 I had to buy an adapter to make it work. I think it will depend on your manifold, but I just got mine from Amazon. I think these were the ones I got: EXCELFU 6 Pieces 6015 R134A Brass... www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3X7KBN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Where can i find the fitting you are using for filling the tank? I have the gauges but cant find the fitting and really dont want to spend 275 for a Dorman set if i dont have to.
Before!.....You buy a new multi-switch....take the old one out and blow in the 8&3 plug connector and tap the switch box in the palm of your hand. I did this, and after reinstalling it, it has worked fine. Saving me the purchase of a new turn signal module.
I know the app you are using but what OBD2 BT adapter are you using? Looking to refill my system also but want to be sure the adapter I buy will support the air suspension system.
@@lucastompson8673 yep. It's just to calibrate the ride height back to factory if something has messed up the height. I have a video that shows how to do it but most people don't need too
Yep. Air shocks and regular shocks are both fully extended when the vehicle is in the air. The reason to tighten them on the ground is because the rubber bushing can rip if you dont.
Hi mate, My car has very similar symptoms. Have you found the cause? I suspect the front diff bearing. My car starts making noise at 60 km/h and only makes noise when I step on the accelerator. When it exceeds 70 km/h, the noise decreases, and at 110 km/h, it only makes a noise when I release the accelerator.
I haven't found the cause yet. I plan on taking it to a transmission specialist soon, but just haven't gotten around to it. Your issues sounds similar to mine. If I put the transmission into neutral and coast at speed, the noise goes away. I can hear it the clearest between 40-60kph under acceleration.
I also think mine is coming from the rear, so I suspect the rear pinion bearing, but it's really difficult to find, so it might be coming from the front.....
@@diydan30 Thanks for the prompt reply I don't think it's a transmission problem. Considering the noise that comes out when the driving force is applied or not applied to the drivetrain, I expect the noise to come from the differential bearing or TC. I hope you find the exact cause
If it's a wk2 and the left wheel well (drivers side) it's really tight but you can get an 18mm (I think) ratcheting wrench on it by reaching around behind the power steering reservoir, you can feel for it, you won't be able to see it. If it's the right (passenger side) then you can use an extension and a socket to lock onto the nut, again you can't see it but it's there under the fuses boxes, there is no need to remove the fuse boxes.
@@michaelmccauley3958 Weird, that was probably the easiest one on the wk2 I did. I think depending on the year there may be fuse boxes over it. In the 2014 I did, that bolt was easily accessible and visible.
It really depends on thr air ride settings. I just calibrated according to the factory manual and called it good. All the ride height settings work now.
Thank you for your video. May I ask, how high is your TV mounted at? What sort of heat management system did you use to keep the wall and TV from heating up? I'm looking at a 72" Mendota but don't know what kind of heat management system to use. I don't want to mount the TV so high that we are craning our necks yet I also want some direct heat from the fireplace. I don't want to use a heat management system that gets rid of all the heat or requires the TV to be set super high. Great job at installing this yourself.
I mounted the bottom of the TV 16" above the fireplace, which was installed 12" above the floor. The TV only gets warm if I don't turn on the fan with the fireplace. In reality I always use the smart fan feature and that blows the heat away from the TV and the TV never gets hot. I will say the mendota puts out a lot of heat, so using the fan is a must in my opinion otherwise anything installed about it will get very toasty.
I'm not sure if you know this but most likely the TPS sensor was good. All you had to do is replace the battery that's inside of it and save a whole bunch of money
@@diydan30 the ones that I've been coming across are the black ones with the white cover. You can usually pop that cover off and replace the battery. You can replace the ones on the silicone but you would actually have to pry the silicone out take the battery out placed it all back in there and then fill it with silicone which is a little bit more of a hassle but it can be done . I smashed these on a daily basis to retrieve the batteries for silver recovery
I've seen videos for the Solberg muffler, it _looks_ like a 'glass pack' muffler that could end up shedding glass fibers into the intake of your compressor. That doesn't seem like a particularly good idea.
I just purchased a 2017 Grand Cherokee Trailhawk 5.7L. When I test drove it the driver's seat moved when I started it and turned it off. The dealership reset everything and I still can't get it to move again. I tried this 4 times and nothing. The feature is enabled in the uconnect. 🤷♂️
So easy entry/exit is turned on and it doesn't work? Did you try it with the ignition turned to the ON position, but the engine is off? If the seat moves when you move the buttons and easy entry/exit is turned on then it sounds like a calibration issue, so this procedure should have helped.
I watched this video several years ago when my wand went bad like everyone else's. I replaced the wand with a new one but the turn signal switch is not as good as the OEM's. It had bothered me ever since because I knew the OEM wand probably can be fixed by sandpapering the contact copper wire. Finally, I did it today. The OEM wand is back and it is fantastic. For anyone who is reading, you need torx 20 for the 3 screws of the plastic housing and torx 15 for the 2 screws that secure the wand itself. Clean the 3 copper contact wire using a sandpaper as shown in this video works great. The OEM contact gets oxidized over time due to moisture.
Thank you friend for your help, here in Brazil we have few units of this car, your video helped me a lot in making this simple configuration, but it requires knowledge.
Stop working after mechanics had to remove seat to fix seized parking brake cable. Just tried works! Who knew this easy? 2012 jeep grand cherokee (Might want to see if the feature is turned off in the settings first)
