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@mattwilliams3456 It doesn't say it's a "SawStop" that won't cut you. It says it's a saw and that it stops when it DOES cut your flesh. Or do you think you'll just keep sawing when you start into your flesh? It's an old Roy Underhill joke...
a fact oft forgotten, the people of history weren't stupid. they simply lacked the materials and sheer volume of labour we take for granted today. but gee golly did they make up for it with a pinch of the ol' human ingenuity. brains r cool
@@itsafroggytime the idea people are stupid is inherently leftist and only politically extant to the degree it is because of trash like tumblr. blanket disregard for old ideas is a democrat feature, not a democrat bug.
My dad used to say just the same. It is bad propaganda, a misconception and/or a blatant lie to say that pre-historic or ancient historic people were less intelligent. Evolution takes millions of years to occur, so even hunter-gatherers from 10k years ago were just as intelligent as we are today. The largest difference really is knowledge and the capacity to keep and interpret information. If you lived in a world where there was not even KNOWLEDGE of written language and any media to keep it, I can tell you it would be astronomically difficult to make any person understand modern physics.
I feel like I was baited by the video thumbnail "Saw stops when it cuts flesh". I guess it's an accurate description for a handsaw, but I still feel baited, or stupid, haven't decided yet. Thanks for the many videos you provide, always a pleasure seeing your info.
The title of this video jokingly refers to the channel name Stumpy Nubs as well as previous videos on saw safety including new technologies like SawStop.
That epoxy trick is brilliant. I find myself so often just needing a little bit of the stuff and this is such a good way to solve multiple problems with that.
Used on of the crappy ones for years installing residential trim. The problem is the blade is in backwards. Turn it around and cut on the pull stroke and you will love it when you get used to it.
@@anonymousaccordionist3326While I agree it's not as good as this beautiful project it's a free upgrade for anyone with the "bent rod" style saw that gets you ~75% of the way there. I do like that bird's mouth platform though!
Yes, the coping saw blade should be oriented to be used with a pull stroke, like a japanese pull saw. That way, the lack of tension on the blade is not as much of an issue. That’s the only way to get such a thin blade to work without a ridiculous amount of tension. Also, the looser tension allows one to rotate the blade in the holder to follow tight curves while sawing.
Thanks, you've answered one of my very long time questions, "Why can't I cut with a coping saw? Now I know, it's not me it's the saw. Well maybe it's 50-50. Keep the good stuff coming.
I knew my coping saw was too floppy! I was a little kid making weird "island" shelves for my Lego Pirates. My dad said it just takes practice, and while he was 100% correct, the saw had some major flaws and would have been so much better with good tension. Now I'm making one of these and I wish I could show my dad what my frustration was all those decades ago. He'd love to see a new home made tool and I'd love to bring up one of my first woodworking memories with him. He just had a 1 car garage, with very limited tools, and I still have my grandpa's 1937 Delta table saw that we used for countless projects. I just wish he could see my new shop and what I've done with what he taught me.
I've got 3 bow saws. I bought one for £2 from a car boot sale because I'd seen them used on a RU-vid boat building channel. Then I made one from scratch over several evenings at night school because our woodwork teacher said that it was a good skills building exercise. It cost nothing because one of the kids in the daytime school had just snapped a nearly new bandsaw blade and there were plenty of twisted coping saws lying around just waiting to donate their pins to attach the blade made from a piece of the bandsaw blade. The wood came from an old desk leg and the handles were turned on the lathe. The third one was bought for about £20 from an antique shop and I just had to have it because it looked so nice and it was a fair bit bigger that the other two which suited some boat repairs that I was doing at the time. The homemade one gets the most use but they all look good hanging on the wall.
ONE of the things I like about my red coping saw is, I don't have to have pins on my blades. This allows me to run the same blades in my coping saw and my scroll saw.
Jeweler here, we use coping saw a lot, you can tension them but it imply some force and a trick : with the handle toward you, you push the other side between you and your table (or something that wont move) and you tighten the blade while keeping it pushed, when you release it your blade will be tensioned since we have high workbench in jewelery (while sat down the bench should be around shoulder height) i put the handle in the "hole" between my shoulder and clavicle to push.
Excellent presentation. Great argument for making a coping saw vs. buying one. Making your own saw and using the hardware kit appears a very simple process. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Rex Krueger has also made a video about how to make a biw saw a couple years ago. I don't remember exactly, but I think he might even have suggested to use the same company for the hardware kit. As for me, I'll simply buy old bow saws from flea markets. I have a huge one that I bought from an antique store and it made easy work of cross-cutting some leftovers from my oak countertop to make matching cutting boards.
Nice clickbait thumbnail... Didn't mention it at all. You make it seem like it's some special design feature that someone invented but big money made disappear when it's really just some obscure joke.
I guess we're lucky in the UK, I have 2 Sheffield made Marples turning saws that I bought for £12-£15 each on eBay and they're both in beautiful as new condition ! Those kits look like great value though and fun to make yourself !
Taylor tools have got great ideas!!! I even subscribed to their you tube channel where they are releasing a lot of good and helpful content. I live in Israel and I have ordered for them many times and I get inexpensive and good solutions and products.
The marking gauge that i made from taylor tools kit actually cuts better than my veritas , even after sharpening the veritas wheel ... I may get this kit as well
A genuine fretsaw is a great alternative. Especially useful for larger boards (I mean older style fretsaws with 10 or more inches of capacity, which allows someone to tighten it very well.)
The real beauty is that the design scales. My dad has an awesome cross cut bow saw that's for around 50cm of blade with a clearing of 20cm to the cross member. You can tilt the bow, so an plum cut you can have the frame rest on your forearm for guidance.
This last christmas I flew back from overseas to visit my mum. As I cleaned out her hoarding house, I cam across nice American made tools that just needed a vinegar bath with a brush and some lubricant to bring them back to life. Thick and heavy full metal straight blades, whittling knives, and a number of other tools got smuggled overseas through metal cookie tins with the border scans being none the wiser. I have such fond "though insignificant" memories of seeing and using the tools, some of which are as old as 50 or more years old throughout my youth. The value and magic of a simple, well built tool cannot be understated.
My son and I made these together a few years ago. I used Purple Heart and Hard Maple and he used Bubinga and Hard Maple, they turned out great. I love the piping bag idea for epoxy, that is brilliant!!!
I've hated coping saws since the first day I ever picked one up, and design my projects so I never have to use one. I assumed the turning saw would be more of the same. You've convinced me to give it a try.
You should make a short with that epoxy trick. It feels like something that would have 15m views on tiktok but, you know, work. Edit: I'm remembering now that I think you don't like shorts, so maybe nvm.
Check out the video of Frans Claus "3 minutes dovetail" to see how he cuts 5 pins and tails using coping saws and be amazed how he goes from vertical to horizontal cutting direction with 1 push of his saw...
Great video as always, Stumpy! I disagree with the wood choice however. I made a version in ash and it split under tension. So I would avoid woods that are easily split/riven (oak, ash, etc.). My maple version is holding up great. Thanks and Be Well!
In fairness, if you're using a scroll saw to cut out the parts, maybe you are addicted to tools. Growing up Dad had us use coping saws to make simple ornaments for family members and I swore I would never use one again. 20+ years later, I bought a cheap scroll saw (on clearance from Home Depot) and wore it out cutting ornaments far more detailed than I ever would have imagined. Now on my second low-end scroll saw (tweaked three ways to Sunday to make it work nicer) and can't see any reason other than depth of cut or transportability to have such a tool. That said, I'm tempted.
Very cool. I wondered for a long time why the standard coping saw works so poorly and drifts in the cut. Now I know. And I will try to get the old style one.
Love the epoxy in a bag trick. I own one of the Knew Concepts fret saws that I mostly use for dovetails. It works great but is not nearly as attractive.
Dear Mr. Stumpy. I think that you might let the folks at Taylor Toolworks know when you are doing one of these videos. That way they'll make more. I wanted my kit and dang it it's sold out. But I'll wait and get mine when they restock.
Taytools is out of the pins and the fishing line, but they have the handles and blades in stock, which I bought from them. Then I bought the Gramercy Turning Saw Pins and fishing line from Tools For Working Wood. Their pins are a little fancier and a little more expensive but I expect them to work perfectly with only a tiny and easy modification to the Taytools plans. And yes, I waited until I got mine before I spilled the beans!
Being old and cheap I made one of these coping saws. I even made my own hardware. I works so much better than those hardware store coping saws!!! I was so impressed that I modified my design a little and made a hacksaw. It worked so well that I'm considering making a frame saw if I can find a source for the blades.
I once made a similar (though much rougher) buck saw frame in the woods. One of those "you only need to carry the blade" bushcraft tips that sounds great in practice, but you'd absolutely be better off making a take down wooden one like this one at home . nice video!
I use a 13" fret saw for my cut outs and have been happy with them. I wonder if I could make a super deep one? I would really like one with a 20" throat!
Hi James. I made one for my friend. I am making one for me next. They really are the most beautiful tool. aren't they? :) I get my kits from Taylor Tools. Good people.
It depends on how I'm using it. I want the teeth to cut against the surface I'm holding the wood on. In the example seen in this video, it's a pull cut.
@@StumpyNubs I think my British humour was overlooked 🤣 BTW I’ve got one of those cheap coping saws and it really is awful. Just can’t get the blade tensioned enough. I remember using a really good one at school (many years ago) and after getting the blade ‘piano string’ tight it cut effortlessly and accurately.
Well, I downloaded the plans and printed them out. I think there must be others like me who are old hobbiests and have a hard time imagining why a $25 kit couldn't contain plans already printed. I sure agreed with this video and want to make a saw. Now for the really hard part.
I recall that Adam Savage showed such a metal saw and a much bigger one that was sitting connected to the table with bearings 🤔. Makes me wonder if one should not make a wooden foot-driven version. Perhaps an idea for somebody handy.😇
If I am not mistaken (I certainly could be), early band saws were foot driven, with a flywheel. 😁✌🖖 Yep, I was wrong, but it has been done. Search for treadle powered bandsaw. 👍
Just bought a 60cm saw blade and a pile of dirt cheap oak doorsteps and these will become a saw kinda like that. It's gonna be my "band saw" which will spit big chunks of wood. Now pondering should I buy a couple of cheap skateboards from sale because their trucks and wheels could be used as a part of the splitting jig. And they could be used to haul stuff too. :D
Looks nice, but to me the question is begging: Which way around is the blade? Do you "PUSH" it to cut or do you "PULL" it? I have been shown a saw a while back in which you put the blade "backwards" so you PULL when you want to cut - rather than the "traditional" way of PUSHING it. Despite my skepticism it was a lot better to use with the blade that way.
If properly tensioned, it can cut in either direction. I like it to push/pull the work against the surface I'm cutting on. So, in the example shown in this video with the bird-mouth rest, I was pulling.
Pulling is far better, on any saw you can make cut on the pull. I turned my hacksaw into a pull cut. I get better power on the cut without the chance of kinking my blade and find my cuts are more accurate too. I also love my two Japanese pull saws. P.S.: FYI, Just in case: Never use a saw directly in front of yourself. Always stand to the side of your cut and allow your elbow to go past your body. Your upper arm should not stand out from your body. Keep it parallel to your body. 😁✌🖖
It's noteworthy to mention that you should release the tension from the strings when you put the saw back into the shelf. Just as you should loosen the wedge in traditional wooden hand planes. Otherwise, your wood will bend sooner or later and the tool would be useless. This is a very little downside as you can not rapidly grap your tool for several strokes and put it back. You always need to tension, adjust the blade, use it and relax the tension again. Anyway, beautiful, genius and cheap and we all should slow down anyway 😊
@@opotime This prob. has a big influence. Also what humidity and temperature your workshop has (I guess warmer and more humid is worse). But I would not risk it, if you relax the wood after use you are guaranteed to have fun with it for decades.
Check out the european version as well! Same idea, but bigger, the blade is usually about 60cm long and 1cm wide. Not as good for very small jobs, but great for bigger projects.
Good jewelers coping saws are also quite expensive, they have to be, because they have to work. Unlike most coping saws that just lay in the garage for 20 years :)
Rex Kruger has a great video on these saws. You can actually make the hardware out of a couple of 1/4-20 fastners if budget is a real concern. About $5 all told.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks! Now I get it. Though I was at dentist and she asked to be very careful until painkiller wears off, as it disables this very handy feature!
I had to make make some detail cuts and begrudgingly bought a coping saw. I never like these things but I needed something to make a cut. Now I've got to get this. Getting the kit is still easier than trying to make this cuts in the steel and make handles. Anyway, it's out of stock already. I also should make a big version of this saw too. Thanks for the video and link.
There do seem to be knock off versions of the better modern coping saw available on ebay now for about £25 in the UK. I presume it is out of patent. However, I decided to make one. Being in the UK, importing something from the US privately is expensive so I decided to try making my own. I started with some 100mm part threaded 6mm stainless steel bolts. Stainless steel is a little more expensive than BZP but you are going to cut it so the zinc plating would be compromised. I also bought some stainless steel nuts to fit them. Rather than buying knobs I got a piece of scrap hardwood about 1 inch by 1 inch, squared it to the grain and drilled a 6mm hole down into it with tape on the drill to show it was deep enough to get the entire length of the thread into it. I did this with a hand held drill. I then made a small recess corresponding to the nut around the hole. Next I mixed the epoxy, put a small amount of the epoxy on the thread where it meets the unthreaded part of the bolt then put the nut on and screwed it up. Then I put epoxy on the rest of the thread and screw it into the hole, ensuring the nut ended up in the recess (the recess does not need to be deep enough to entirely bury the nut, it is simply to provide a little extra support). I then left both overnight. With no lathe, I shaped the handles by hand, making the wood square with the bolt in the middle and then octagonal. I held the handle by clamping the bolt in an engineering vice (with suitable protection to prevent it scoring the bolt). I had planned to use the head of the bolt to hold it and prevent it turning whilst I was working on the wood although I found I did not need to. I would have used a vise grip or a spanner (wrench) to do it if necessary. Once I was satisfied with the handle I flipped it over and cut the head off the bolt. Next the tricky bit. You need to cut down the sawn off bolt as close to the centre line as possible and keep it straight. It is difficult to start that accurately with a hacksaw so I used a triangular file until I was satisfied that I had created a kerf to guide the hacksaw blade. Next I needed a slot for the pins on the blade. Obviously this needed to be at right angles to the first slot but it also needs to be at about 45 degrees to the bolt so that when it is under tension the blade is forced into place. The hacksaw didn't make it quite wide enough to accept the pins so I needed a very narrow file to widen it slghtly. It was then just a case of filing of any burrs on the bolts and I was good to go with making the frame. The frame was also made with hand tools . I did find it fiddly to get the blade to stay in place whilst I assembled the frame but a bit of blue masking tape to hold it at each end sorted that. Once it is under tension it holds itself. I suspect somebody more skillful than me would be able to make one that does not need that workaround. I will add one other point. I hold the saw by between the blade and the spreader, NOT by the handles. This is because I find it more comfortable and more controllable. Total cost of the ironmongery was about £10 - but I have enough left to make another four saws!
I have two times purchased the jigsaw machine that does exactly this, with long 50 cm mouth so you can rotate almost any piece on it. And both times I returned it, because the piece you work will jump up/down on the table from forces of the saw movement. The saw mass is about 25 kg so it isn't light, and it will stay nicely on table at high speed. And the jaw is extremely sturdy considering it is about 5 cm square steel beam on both sides with thickness of about 3 mm. So you will never bend the jaw in overtightening saw blade, but you will break the blades first without any flexing. Firs time I bought for good reason, with naive idea. The second time I knew that what I learned in first time and I yet did it again for believing I made some mistakes in that one week testing period. And I have returned back to a basic handsaw that use 1.5 mm wide saw blades, that are attached to 30 cm mouth opening steel pipe saw that will nicely pull the blade. The attachment is done just by friction on blade and no pins. The sawing action works very nicely as long you remember not to push too hard but let the saw do its work just by saw weight. It is very fast to thick 4-5 cm material even. The question in all these is always that how much pull force you can apply on the saw blade before it is cut in two. And then can you apply that much pulling force with your saw pieces. Those cheap saws doesn't have that capability but flex a lot. What that 170 dollar high tech is fixing by offering far more force to pull blade. But that wooden is always having far more force because that opposite side tightening lever. Reason why I don't use the wooden version, is that it is just too big. It is simple to do, it works fine, but it is just too big for the fine working with small pieces and tight places. Easy way to fix those cheap ones is to add a additional middle support beam, made from wood. Just drill a holes on stick, cut them half and push it just little bit further from the mouth depth to have a same kind additional tightening lever. You lose depth in mouth but when needed you can just pull stick out for those moments.
