In this video, I restore a Stanley 5 1/4 that I found at an estate sale for $1. The mouth on it was broken and one point and was re-welded. I cleaned up the welds, and now have a very clean user hand plane. Evaporust: www.evapo-rust...
Here's a thing, do your break downs in real time, stop fast forwarding all the time, talk a bit, many people like to watch things from woe to go. Just a thought.
$1 for a 5¼? That was a steal! Great restoration, but I'm surprised you didn't put a coat of oil on the bed, cheeks and sole. Flash rust will certainly be an issue with all those freshly sanded surfaces.
TRW yes. On the knobs? I watched 3 plane restoration videos last night that used an angle grinder to take off rust, one even commented that he wasn’t trying to make it work properly just make it look better. Watch Paul Sellers plane setup. It’s about an hour. Hand work only, sandpaper and files. That weld can be fixed with files and hand sanding.
TRW sorry for being critical. Symptom of too much RU-vid watching. My apologies. That cracked body was certainly no longer a collectors item. I restored 6 Bedrock planes in the early 90s and the advice given to me then was to use electrolysis on heavy rust or mild vinegar on mild rust, and a brass brush. Fixing old tools are about enjoying using them, so enjoy your new plane.
The plane, regardless of it's condition, was worthy of the work done. Fortunately for it's new owner not a lot of work was required and he now has a fabulous tool. Personally I would like to have seen you hone the frog and the surfaces upon it mates of only to determine the nature of that mating.
Thank you! And this won't be a finishing plane so I had no point in perfecting it. I got it to a nice usable condition and it takes a shaving just fine.
I restored an old Stanley Handyman a few weeks ago. It was my first one. It's videos like this one that helped me do it right. I was getting some nice curls off of walnut and oak so I think I did a pretty good job.
I found an old victor from circa 1940 never used and in almost mint condition but needs polishing still has original wood boxbut I am afraid I will ruin it as it is almost there .
@@TheRussianWoodworker I think your right . I still will have to get the dust besides a cleaning and polishing is only half hour or work with this one if that .Thank you for your reply .
Well I tried to work it out, but I must just be too thick. I guess two totes are shown? One was sacrificed to fix the knob? Still no idea why one is sawn in half. Never mind life is too short, i'll move on. Cheers
I have one of these found at a flea market. Was actually in very good condition and didn't need restoration. I often use it with an iron with 1/8" teeth cut into it for heavy stock removal and first round flattening of boards. Just a perfect size as a semi scrub plane. One of my favorites and I have a lot of planes.
It certainly looks better than it did but using the grinder on it, is a big mistake for a rarer plane because it takes away its value as collectors want the patina. Thanks
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻nice job, I like the way you ran the video at double speed. Lot of hard work done very quickly. Never seen a buffing wheel setup in a lathe before. Very creative. You ended up with a fully functional tool.
Good luck with that plane. I think over time you will get frustrated with its inaccuracy due to the toe being slightly out of plane with the rest of it due to the front being welded back on. Once one of these is broken it rarely can be repaired effectively.
I’m just using it for rough flattening and it does everything I need it to do. The blades sharp and the sole is reasonably flat. We’ll see as time goes on though:)
I brazed my Stanley plane right where the blade comes out it was cracked.. I dug out the metal a bit and brazed it .. has survived two drops so far and no problem
When flattening the sole you should have the plane assembled as the plane body is stressed and twisted and should be trued in its normal working mode. See Paul Sellers rebuild session.
Thanks for watching. It really does not make that much of a difference. It's used for woodworking which will either way have some discrepancies. If this was going to plane precision machines metal yes it would matter, but in this case it does not. Also this is an older restoration video check out some of my newer ones
Eh, like TRW said, it doesn't really make a practical difference. I will add that it doesn't make a practical difference as long as the frog is mated to the sole correctly. The whole "must be lapped fully assembled" myth has been busted, over and over.
That is done totally wrong as it has not been trued on the base of the plane and in sharpening the blade was done wrong as when doing it on a machine only touch’s the edge but it doesn’t get rid of the bevels on the blade as it should have been done on a diamond stone that is true flat surface. And the base of the plane also has a bevel in the centre of it after ware over time so it too should be levelled on a flat surface with a hard grit sandpaper taking the bevels out of it. As I was a cabinet maker for twenty years and I’ve redone that many planes over the time I worked by hand not machines that’s why you should always do it correctly and not incorrectly like he has done so.
Did you watch the video? I flattened the plane on a flat granite slab using sandpaper by hand. And the sharpener I used gets blades razor sharp, I know how to sharpen blades by hand as well, but I do not see a major difference to justify sharpening by hand. Does the plane cut wood and leave a mirror like finish? Yes it does, and that's all I need it to do. Congratulations on being a carpenter, but you should be open to change. Things have changed and some stuff doesn't need to be done primitively. I was an apprentice for master Carpenters and they taught me how to sharpen planes by hand, but recommend we using an electric sharpener just because it saves time and time is money.
