$1000 Fire Ball? Extreme Testing of the ZD Racing EX07 1/7 HyperCar! 

The EX07 is currently not available to the UK from Banggood. If you are interested, try here. And using the Discount code 'Tomley' might take a bit off for you. shop.makerfire.com/products/zd-racing-ex07-1-7-4wd-electric-hypercar-brushless-rc-car?_pos=9&_sid=ae7205980&_ss=r&aff=286

You legit explained the battery thing in a way all car people can understand lmao. I love that. It shows that you're equally as much of a car guy as you are an RC enthusiast. We need more car jargon translation

Been looking forward to this video! Thanks for sharing!

That was an excellent way of explaining the battery, ESC, Motor and wiring gauge. Great video, as always, Thanx 👍👍

Great job on this analogy Dr.Phil! The gauge size of your wiring, from battery, to esc to motor is also a very important factor as far as heat transfer. Bigger wiring =better heat transfer = cooler motor, and cooler esc. What you did seems totally acceptable to me, because your still staying within your limits! And good heavy wires make limits more tolerable. Fun video Phil⭐️! Wicked fun car! Wish I had one👊🏼👍🏻🤘🏻

In all honesty who cares if it’s licensed or not sure being licensed is more authentic but in the end it’s just a really fast toy you can make it how you want it in my opinion

I love how you got 6weeks of video in 1 short video! And you was spot on with the power delivery description. But its throttle bodies and fuel injection thease days. Can't wait to see more of this car. Need a speed run with the big batteries in it

Brilliant explaination of something I've been trying to work out while looking for battery's

Tomley your presentation and explanation of the RC power system is perfect, very clear and to the point. I'm a former auto technician and HGV tech. Class 8 diesel in my part of the world lol. I think ZD just doesn't want the risk of overheating due to longer run times with the bigger battery is my guess. Amoril said the same to me went their esc and motor gave up on 3s I used a 35c and they wanted 25c!

Excellent video Phil. Keep up the great job your doing keeping us informed and entertained. Top job. John

6 weeks run time!! 😂😂I love it! And I agree with a lot of people in the comments! The way u explained the electronics, I’m very sure helped people understand and have a lot better idea of the electrical systems in these RC’s. Great video! Can’t wait to see the roller!!

Awesome run, thought your explanation about the batteries, esc, motor was great.

Thanks for the comprehensive explantation!

Nice technical explanation 👊🍻 great vídeo as always.

I think you drive damn good one handed. Props sir!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Awesome video bro.... I can’t wait to get a EX07!

Très bon pilotage à une seule main 💪💪👍

A really useful analogy - thank you!

Dude i like that ESC=carburetor analogy! Ima use that next time!

An other fantastic video. I already caught on getting an ZD Racing BX-8E Roller.

That was a great analogy, Tomley! 😃 You just forgot about the entropy: as something works it loses energy, generating heat. (That applies to the batteries, esc and motor.) So it all depends on how much heat it generates and how good is the cooling... In this case I believe the esc doesn't have a trustworthy cooling system... The fan should never stop like that! 😬 Anyway, fantastic bashing!!! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Really enjoyed this one dude, nice to see no fireball go you. Those batteries are some size I'm surprised the motor did get a little hot with the run time. Dam good video

Thanks for the rigorous testing! I just ordered one and you had me worried/anxious for the first 80% of the video 😅

Great great video. Thanks for putting that our . Big thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

More mah just means longer duration, and a higher C rating means that the motor can draw those amps down more quickly if it needs to, so you might get a bit more punch, "initial acceleration". But an electric motor will only take what it needs. So if you have an ESC/motor combo, that's your control right there, it won't take more than it needs. The biggest difference you can make to a motor, and an ESC, is if you change the voltage. So that would be more or less cells in the pack. When we run older/cheaper RC vehicles with brushed motors, we can add cells and make them faster, though the motor and the ESC will burn out sooner. But in either case, a reasonably up to date ESC will cut out if given too much voltage, won't it?

Great slo mo shots!

The esc didn't do the thermal cut off properly on the rckiwis car probably & burst into flames that was the cause while yours is functional as you noticed the fan wasn't moving at all. A mod worth doing i guess is getting one of those generic 120mm fan shrouds that are sort of a mesh net & cutting it down too size and gluing it onto the fan or getting some sort of mounting for it if you cant screw it down with the fan without having longer screws sorted out for it.

Thanks for the vid tomley! The ex07's stock ESC is just a rebranded Surpass Hobby 150 amp 6s ESC. I got one and tried it in my Limitless with stock gearing. It did heat up so fast, I had to stop running it before it burns.. In short, that stock ex07 ESC is not for something bigger than 1/8 scale, and also not for high speed gearing. The amp draw could burn it.. I hope zd racing improves it. Or to be better, just buy the roller version.

I love the brake down. On the this on how you explain it

I have 120 amp and 150 amp surpasshobby esc and they are solid. Especially for the price. I never had an issue. And ive ran them in snow and rain.

Nice car analogy 👌

This Mustang Ken Block is monstrous ! 💪💪💪👍👍👍

Amazing car, great video Bro!! Wow!

I had the hpi hoonicorn and swapped out the stock motor and esc for the flux system so the speed matched the look, only 3s 5k batteries not as fast as yours and over priced ( HPI High Price Imminent) but mega fun. Love your channel and vids are informative and helpful thanks keep up the content 👍👍

I can't tell ya how glad I was that we didn't see it go Lipo supernova! Loved that last drift session montage too! Hellz yeah! Now where sir...is that clutch velour track suit from the 90's Nikko vid to complete the look! 🙃 Classic!

Good analogy

The greatest🔋 explanation in the history of physics, science and engineering

I was very confused but you explained it properly. It shouldn't matter. Same voltage . unless the esc is garbage .

love the hoonicorn 👍😀

I just smoked that same ESC "Surpass Hobby" last Sunday doing speed runs on 3s, 93mph redcat lighting

Perfect analogy IMO! A battery with a higher C rating is similar to a larger diameter fuel line. It is not creating increased fuel pressure, it is only increasing available volume of electric fuel for use if needed/demanded.

Regarding one hand driving, you can strap the selfie stick to your controller base with 2 battery straps. I'm sure you're aware of this but it's worth a try for smoother driving, works for me. Great content as always, cheers.

you explained the battery voltage well.

I'm not surprised on the esc handled the big batteries. I have a surpass hobby 150amp and I run it consistently on two 3s 6000mah 80c batteries.

I'll say yes you proved me wrong! Right on mate!

No Kaboom 😂 Awesome vid

Awesome video

Brilliant analogy of how power system works, maybe do an rc guide for noobs. You’ve probably got more answers than noobs have questions. Great channel (apart from crawlers 😂) 👍👍👍

Interesting analogy, but it's difficult if not misleading/impossible to use an internal combustion engine to explain an electical motor system. There is no analogue for an ESC in a liquid fueled car because the batteries are both the fuel and the pump. The ESC is pretty much the ECU in the gas car which does regulate injector timing, but is absolutely not under any extra load if the fuel pump/fuel flow is increased dramatically. Quite simply, ZD have supplied batteries that are too small for the car, but in being too small they can't keep up with the amp draw required by the motor. Because the voltage will sag in the batteries when they are struggling to supply the amps required, this means the ESC gets an easier ride. If you use batteries that can keep up with the amp draw, the voltage holds causing extra heat build up in the ESC, which is what causes the damage. As to what actually fails, could be the amp handling side, or it could be (as I believe the castles were) the BEC blowing out. I guess the analogue for a gas car would be installing an alternator that was much too powerful for the car, causing wiring and electrical components to blow.

I'm not really up to speed with all the technical stuff, but your explanation was excellent, made it easy for me to now understand!

great car great vid. thank you

Wow keep making these amazing videos

When I'm not making videos while trying to break my RC cars, I do enjoy watching others do it. LOL

That was a very good explanation of a RC car power systems. It is just thy ZD racing is not being truthful about there electronics.

I'm glad you did this test. It is ridiculous that you would have to use a specific battery from them. If the esc cant pull the current then it cant pull it and that should be the end of the story.

That thing looks badass and pretty good power stock with the recommend batteries I didn't know who Ken Block was till about a couple months before this RC came out I was watching all his vids so it was really cool to see a RC of the hoonigan 4wd drive Mustang I never dreamed of a 4wd Mustang especially all modded out like it is I don't know how they got away with the licensing I don't know anything about how it works to be honest lol Cool vid mate sorry for the long arse comment I get carried away talking about that awesome car and the RC 😁

I dig your wiffle-walflle explination of an RC car parts to a real car. Great job n keep up the great work that you do 😎👍👍 ....two thumbs up.... Get out there n enjoy your hobbies😁 Be safe😷

That is an awesome looking car, licensed or not I love it 👍🏻🍻

The fuel system was explained like a true prophet.👍🇬🇧😎

might have to get me 1 great video im glad you showed me the esc aint bad

It makes a huge difference what the ambient temperature is.

Love it...good explanation...is that the set up from the rally car? If not ...it should be! Keep poking the bear...hehe!

SEND IT!!!

Man awesome video m8 I like this car looks nice I thing I'd like two see a rally shell on it looks a good platform and if you don't whant the electrics like you said could get rolling chassis wounder what it would be like with a Castle set up in it 👍👍👍

I was expecting a fire a bit disappointing 🤣👍👍👍

Crikey, Tomley gone mad with power He has! Did You top up the shocks cause in slowmo They looked pretty good? Beauty Mate, another great show thanks.

No fire with all that extra weight and and 3 time's the run time. 👍

Not sure what the issue is, the battery doesn't force 1500amps into the circuit, the circuit pulls what it needs, if the battery is capable of delivering more current than the circuit is rated at, that's just a more safe power supply. If the battery isn't capable of delivering the current the circuit demands and it is a lipo, it can go into thermal runaway and burst into flames. This is basic stuff that anyone using lipo's should understand. Now I'll watch the video where you explain all of this because I know you aren't an idiot.

I do like it! How are the tyres holding up? I have a mate with a new arrma infraction and the stock tyres lasted 1 or 2 sessions of about 20-30mins. Which is a little rough considering its $70+(AUD) for 2 tyres. I would really like to test these zd racing wheels/tyres out but there doesn't seem to be any replacement parts available yet.

Nice one of my favourite videos 👍

6 weeks of run time that's insane 😂😂😂😂❤

hi Tomley quick question! please how did you fix the head lights to keep on all the time? cause i am not able to fix it on my

Fairly accurate. I'd say, imagine your fuel tank is also 200 feet above you and the fuel is pressing down with a lot of force into the carb. In theory it shouldn't matter much but things don't always go to theory.

Where was my fireball 😔 Great video that things a beast

Agreed. The mah rating of a battery (size of the fuel tank) should have no impact on the operation of the ESC. The C rating would be an issue if anything so it's weird that ZD Racing told the RC Kiwi's that the mah rating is the issue.

Gr8 content my friend…. Your explanation of RC batteries is spot on ….. those are the biggest batteries I’ve ever seen as far as MaH ratings… I don’t recall if you gave the price of those Gynormous batteries but I’d like to know … thanks for sharing! 😎👍🏻💯

There seems to be a misconception that a massive, high C pack (packs) will allow more performance. As soon as you use a pack that can deliver all that a system will demand, going larger will do nothing, other than adding weight (which will cause amp draw to be higher) As for the wire gauge, it will only have a truly noticeable difference when dealing with longer wires. Difference will be relatively little with such short wires. Had you have killed the esc, I can almost guarantee it would have been due to higher amps and system stress from the substantial increase in mass.

as an ex-mechanic by trade, the way you explained everything was spot on! good job my friend! you'll need to take that beast of a car to the airport strip one day when you get a chance and really let it reach it's potential. great for drifting i must say! cheers for the cool and informative video!

That was cool.

hey tom, i also have an ex07, and the only way the esc managed to burn out was me doing like 4 high speed runs full wide open throttle, then chucking a few high speed drifts, maybe you should try that as an extreme torture test

Phil for the roller i would go max6 and hobbystar or leopard 4285 or maybe 4585

Great video Phil gens ace should have a discount code for tyres , l bet two good runs on them should sufficiently rubbish the tyres

? Series battery s c rating doubles or remains same? awesome vid loving videos keep up great analogies you nailed it 💯👍 subscribed

Hey bud I was listening to this one in the background and I'm sure someone has answered but the analogy is a bit bunk. In the stock system the batteries are the bottleneck, limiting the current. The motor via the esc want more but that is all the batts can give. Higher capacity and larger c rating mean they can give more and so are no longer the bottleneck. This puts more pressure on the esc (which you rightly said is at it's limit). So under load... Bang. Clearly not the way to spec a system but they are built to a cost

Them batterys are beast

The fan on the esc needs a better protective screen on it.

But I do love this car... It's on my wishlist so that's my next purchase so thanks for the review...

Cool! It uses a rebranded Dumborc controller

I'm impressed by this especially being 2 of my friends have them and both of their esc's caught fire. Though they did run 4s so that might have something to do with it,lol. As for that body,I don't care if it isn't licensed,it's still cool looking,lol. I hope they do the hoonitruck next,lol.

Hmmm, sounds like the ESC has been mis-programmed to allow it a higher burst draw than the internals can actually handle. This is the only way I can see a bigger C rating messing up an ESC. This is also a potential problem as it means that the ESC 'could' overload the batteries before the ESC. You could replace the motor with a lower KV to reduce the chances of the motor asking the ESC for more than it can take

To my mind the c rating is a batteries safe charge and discharge rate. A 25c battery may well provide more than 25c if asked to but it will shorten the life of a battery. So I dont see any problem as long as they are both 3s

Need to see a speed run with those batteries.

The different battery can make a huge difference for the drivetrain. Under full acceleration, the current through the motor is dictated by the systems voltage. But the system voltage isn't constant. Everything has an internal resistance, so if the motor pulls a lot of current, there will be voltage drop. That voltage drop in return reduces the motors current, according to ohm's law. With bad batteries like the ZD ones and a lot of current, you can EASILY generate 4-5V voltage drop. That's like running 5 instead of 6 cell lipo!!! Now to the battery. The C rating multiplied with the capacity in amp-hours gives the nominal current the battery can supply. By tripling C rating and capacity, the battery can nominally sustain 9 TIMES the current. That roughly translates to a nineth of the internal resistance and therefore a nineth of the voltage drop!!! If we assume you had 5V drop on original batteries, that'd give a system voltage of 20V when starting with a full battery. With the new battery, under the same load, the system would only drop to 24,5V. So if you go from 150A at 20V to 24,5V, you'd already be at over 180A. So no wonder the ESC died.

That is actually a good valid response 1:47 if that is from the Chinese maker. "we recommend if you wanna use aircraft batteries with high C rating, then get the barebone version' so you can fit an higher amp rated ESC." I usually don't see such proper responses from Chinese makers.

THE C RATING IS MORE LIKE THE OCTANE OF THE FUEL... THE AMPS IS LIKE THE MILAGE OR FUEL CUNSUMPTION .. I HAVE THE SD RACING 1/8 SCALE SHORT COURSE TRUCK THAT CAME OUT GREEN N BLUE AND IS NOW DISCONTINUED ... AND THE ESC BURNED UP N SO DID STOCK BATTERIES I HAVE PUT A WATER COOLED ESC IN IT THAT IS 6S N THE MOTOR GETS HOT I HAVE A 19 OR 20TOOTH PINION I JUST GOT A 34 TOOTH PINION I HAD TO ORDER NEW DUMBO RC TX RX SO THATS INSTALLED THE BODY MELTED IN THE HEAT N WENT FLAT I JUST GOT MY NEW 1/8 SCALE VW BEETLE BODY FROM EBAY THE ONES THAT ARE 29.99ITS A LITTLE SMALL BUT I HAVE A BODY NOW .. I HAD TO REBUILD CENTER DIFF CUZ I SHREDDED THE PLASTIC SPUR I TOOK A KTM BUGGY CANTER DIFF N TOOK THE SPUR N PUT ON THE ZD RACING CENTER DIFF ONLY RUNNING IT ON 4S RIGHT NOW I JUST GOT NEW BATTERIES GRAPHENE 2S 100C 4000MAH I FIGURED I COULD USE WITH NO PREP DRAG CAR IM GOING TO BUILD FOR THE KING OF THE STREETS DRAG RACE THEY HAVE HELD HERE FOR 2 YEARS NOW N I MISSED THEM BECAUSE OF THIEVES.... BUT I JUST GOT A JOB ... I TOOK TRUCK TO TRACK N GOT REAR ENDED N MY BUGGY BODY FELL OFF N BATTERY CAME OUT THAT RUNS RECEIVER SO I WNT BACK THE OTHER NIGHT N THEN I NOTICED THE PARK TOOK OUT THE POWER SO NO MORE CHARGING N NO MORE LIGHTS AT NIGHT WHICH SUCKS.... N EXPLAINS WHY I ONLY SAW NITRO CARS ON TRACK O BATTERIES HAVE A LITTLE RUN TIME ON THEM SO IM GONNA GET THE BODY POSTS MOUNTED N DRIVE TRUCK N CHARGE IT UP FOR TRACK AT 6AM SO I ONLY HAVE 4.5 HOURS i would like to get this car your driving too... but after drag car i want the 1/5 rovan gas rc but ill see ..

I feel that you did Hoon it!!!!!!

Not sure if thats little bits of dust thrown up but it looks like whisps of tire smoke.

Follow up vid suggestion: Short out the terminals on the ZD racing 3s pack and measure the current + wattage to see what it ACTUALLY puts out. Even money says it doesn't come close to the rated max even under those conditions.

Awesome 😎😎😎

I bought the version without electrical part and assembled it this week with ESC Hobbywing ezrun MAX-6 v3 160a, Racerstar 4282 720KV engine and 2 batteries 6s 5200 60c. The problem is that when I connect only one battery (by bridging the ESC), the car works normally, but when I connect both batteries, everything works normal, except the engine not responding and the ESC is flashing red without the beeps. Can you help me?