Woke this morning had the notification of the new up load and made my day, kept in the bank till after work and must say well worth the wait. Love this channel.
There are times when you might seem like an amateur mechanic but you always seem like a professional You tuber and your wife is the best camera girl ever.
I think it just needed to be run. After running all that bad gas with too much oil for 20 seconds at a time, it was loaded up. Take it out for 20 minutes and run it hard. Mix up some fresh gas with a good clean burning synthetic oil, and see if it clears out. That crankcase has sat for who knows how many years with old oil in it. The crank seal is probably fine, but could be seeping from being loaded up. Also, you should be able to tell from the smell if the smoke is from crankcase oil or running too rich (after running it long enough to burn out any residual seepage or assembly oil). Gear oil has a completely different smell from 2 stroke oil.
at the end he shows that the crank bearing has play so that as well as the leaky seals need replacing. the crankcase is not full of oil like a 4 stroke. the oil in the flywheel housing is oil and fuel; there's a serious leak when the engine is running for there to be that much residue.
it definitely could have been the problem, i had the same problem on my 89 kx80 and i ended up changing all the gaskets for practice working on my engine, ended up fixing the problem for me
Don’t get discouraged, can’t wait to see this thing run once you tear into it. Honestly the engine tear downs are my favorite part of this channel. Keep up the great content!
Hey Jake, just wanted to let you know I had your videos playing in the background while I was replacing the main system board of a Lenovo all-in-one PC. Your positive attitude while troubleshooting and working helped keep me in the right mindset while I worked!
I enjoy your videos you make me want a dirt bike so bad...but thanks to you when I get one it will be maintained perfectly with all kinds of nice parts on it . Thank you for your time and each and every video you produce....saving up for my first dirt bike and have been for a while.keep up the good work
You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal! if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer. Changed one on my Cr250, no problem.
Ryan Moore I live for slick little tricks like that. My buddy bought some nylon shifter bushings, and the kit came with installation instructions. It said to basically halfway drop the transmission so that you could remove the part which contains the bushing and press it out. That seemed like a big pain in the ass, so I got underneath it and looked. I ended up taking my pocket knife and sawing the shoulder off of the stock rubber bushing on one side, at which point I could just poke it out with my finger. The new nylon bushings were two piece, so they slipped in from opposite sides no problem. Turned an afternoon project into a 20 minute project.
Nevir202 I'm a auto mechanic, and back in the 90's gm had the iron duke, a 2.5 four cylinder pushrod overhead valve engine that gm used in EVERYTHING. Instead of using a timing chain, it used a fibre timing gear that was pressed onto the camshaft. The recommended repair procedure was to remove the engine, remove the balancer and front timing cover, remove the valve cover and loosen the rocker arms, remove the lifter side cover and remove the pushrods and lifters, then remove the cam and remove and replace the cam gear using a arbor press. The whole job was listed at 19 hours flat rate. Me and my buddy in the private shop we worked at devised a easier way. Jack the passenger side of the car up, remove tire and inner fender liner. Remove the passenger side cradle bolts and lower engine and subframe to gain access to timing cover. Remove belts, balancer and timing cover. The center hub of the gear is aluminum, using a drill, drill small holes thru fibre sprocket and aluminum hub as close to cam as possible. Using chisel or air hammer, crack hub apart from cam and remove. Center of cam is hollow, take a fine thread tap and cut threads into inner shaft of cam as far as possible. Using long bolt that fits threaded hole and thick washer, coat new gear hub with oil and press onto cam using bolt. Install new cover gasket and seal onto timing cover and install it, reinstall balancer and belts, put subframe back up, replace inner fender and tire, and done. Total time? About four hours, give or take.
All these are reasons why you used to hang onto a private mechanic before they started making everything to where you had to go straight to dealer for everything, then pay more for parts, labor, time, etc.
Stumbled upon your videos today. I really enjoy them, you and your wife make for good entertainment and it's educational.Nothing like wrenching on things, I love it. As far as the swap before checking? It happens to the best of us. Putting the cart before the horse so to speak. Just think of it as practice Lol
Just watched a few of your vids, looking to get into fixing up used bikes myself. You have my sub! Well done on the video you and your wife are awesome!
Keep that chin up! We all love seeing the progression and process. Welcome to the wonderful world of 2stroke dirtbikes! My Kawasaki had the same exact problem when I got it. Ended up doing a complete rebuild. But keep in mind that even after the rebuild, the bike will run cold and rich for a bit and smoke a decent amount till you ride it and get some heat in it. You can see my 2 videos on my channel for proof.
Love the videos, keep it up! I'm enjoying learning about these tricks to diagnose. I hope to tear apart my 78 yamaha 250 enduro to replace the seals as well, I've had the same trouble as this bike and it has been a back burner project for ... way longer than I want to admit.
Keep making content! I thoroughly enjoy this "real" life scenario and how you attack the problem. Like any technician, you hope to fix the issue with one attempt but reality is much more painful....
Awesome vid guys. Sorry to see you go to all the struggle with these old KDX's, but at least now we know what all it needs. Time to go trade that turkey for a rebuild kit. Go ahead and do the whole top and bottom rebuild so you won't regret it later. Wait no don't do that, you must remain with doing as little as it takes, that's the goal of these videos and why we keep coming back to watch more.
He who dares wins ,you are the man with the magic hands ,the phoenix that will rise from the cloud of 2 stroke smoke ,you will make it shine and it will see tarmac once again ,cant wait to see you guys out for a family bike ride be awesome keep up the great work no matter how frustrating :)
Thanks for being real people. Show us we aren't the only people on earth that learns through our questionable decisions, and grows from them. I really enjoy watching you and your wife have a life. May God ess and keep you.
i'm a professional and qualified automotive mechanic--i have always had motorcycles, but only recently obtained a 1990 rm 250---it dows EXACTLY this but still has incredible power-- youve saved me alot of time trouble shooting,--my case may be worst case,but at least i know where to start before i get to those pesky transmission oil seals--thanks folks. :)
Glad you're going to split the cases. I will mention that there are 2 other things to change as well, make sure the mix is closer to factory spec so you don't foil the plug, and let the bike come up to temp before you rev it. None of my 2 strokes have ever reved on cold start but once they are at temp the revvvvv
oh the dilemma. I like to see a new video from you.. so I want to like. But the bike doesn't run and I don't want anyone to think I like that. But you did an engine swap which I like. But that didn't work either which I don't like. But it ran... I like to see running motors. But it ran like garbage which is sad. So I have no idea if I should like the video or not. frick it... *Slams Like Button
Use self tapping screws into the seals to pull them out without splitting the cases. Also the exhaust and silencer packing will be saturated in oil so will still smoke bad untill it’s all burnt off or cleaned. Keep up the good work, love watching ur videos!!
You're going through what I'm going through. A love for old 2 strokes and then the realization that unless it's running great, and even if it is, it probably needs to be rebuilt. And not just piston and rings damn seals and main bearings. Then heaven forbid your rod needle bearing is toast cause some of the old air cooled ones they don't even make cranks for anymore! Anyways, can't get enough of your channel!
Thank you so much for this video because I notesed when I change my oil on my 2001 Suzuki rm 125 less oil came out then I put in but I didnt know if this was normal and I don't have the $300 for a professional to look at so you saved me money thank you
Shit happens man, it's nice to see it's not all rainbows and sunshine each time. But we are still learning and developing which is awesome! Thanks to you two for the videos.
When bikes sit for long periods of time with the fuel valve on, fuel leaks into crankcase. The pressure from piston coming down will force this fuel out seal. The seal is easily bypassed in this direction. This "puddle of fuel will also make the volume of the crankcase smaller and make the engine run like crap. It takes a couple wot runs to clear out.
I have a 1990 Kx250, it smokes like a forest fire till it warms up. Stock 2-stroke mix ratio I believe is 32:1, for a while I was running 40:1, but i thought that was a little lean, so I split the difference now & run 36:1, I also run a race plug NGK B9EGV. The hotter it runs the better it runs. Anyway keep up the Great Videos.
Before going to all that trouble i'd mix up a batch of 40:1 Seems allot of folks run those bikes at that ratio just fine. All my cr500s needed to warm up for a minute or two before they really ran good on the top end.
The first thing I thought was the 2 stroke mix ratio is way off, an too rich, older bikes use to run 32:1 with a few others at 40:1. Nowadays its 60-80:1 or even thinner. I like having a slight puff of smoke at intial tip in, then some what clear out afterward. I think its safer to be a little rich opposed to a little lean. I believe the engine lasts longer too. Less down time, more ride time. Just saying.
Back basics a lot of bike shops would charge a fortune and losing the art of mechanical repairs we live in a throw away society good to ur taking up all these challenges plus ur wife’s comments are so funny
I've been watching all these projects and builds and I've learned a lot about bikes and especially 2 strokes its helpful cause I have a blaster and rm125
If your real life mistakes mean that we are going to get more videos, then keep messing up =) I really enjoy your videos, I'm so glad I've discovered your channel!
Hey, great video, mistakes and setbacks add drama and tension for the audience and make the final success all the sweeter! If your projects always went perfectly smoothly you'd look fake! Also, great to see and hear both of you again in this one.