@@pdxnate3314 It’s actually sharper then a razor blade, some surgeons actual prefer obsidian blades over scalpels because how much more sharper and precise it is than a scalpel
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ru-vid.comUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
You were doing it wrong you have to sharpen 1 side at a time until you get a burr on the opposite side then do it to the other side until there is a burr on the opposite side then gently remove that burr then progress to the next grit and repeat. I sharpen my broadheads for hunting by hand same procedure as above and I promise you my blades would hit 100 to 150 on that scale try it and see. Use a post it paper to test for burr.
@Extremos the wicked edge is not designed to be a hobbyist's system. These are meant for people that either sharpen for a living, or depend on sharp knives day in and out.
@@litigioussociety4249 that is a subjective perspective. Adding more buttons to an airplane cabin usually costs a lot more money, doesn't make it any easier. Expresso makers cost a lot because of the quality they give you not because of your ability to use them. Automatic cars are easier to use these days you could argue, but a mechanic would tell you they are much harder to maintain and repair.
Ceramic rods like in the $4 knife sharpener commonly vary from between 1,000 grit to 4,000 grit. Also, when you sharpen a knife it creates micro burrs that are harder to see and feel. That's why most people going for a razor edge finish the blade with a leather strop and some stropping/buffing compound. From my experience a good thorough stropping can take a knife from a "decent" cut through paper, to being shaving sharp on its own. If you get a strop, make sure you get one with a rougher almost "furry" (I guess) feeling to it on one side and then a smooth firm leather on the other.
When I began sharpening by hand I knew nothing but i still new that leather was a really great finisher and would use it without even realizing that was a normal thing that professionals did
@@gwc_garage Sounds like you were farther ahead than you thought! When I first started I honestly had no idea, however even the cheapest of strops have given me great results. Even cheaper vegan leather has done the job lol.
@@kfer9500 yeah when I started I had one stone that I didnt know the grit of different sand papers and a file(only used for larger blades like machetes or really really dull knives) and a small strip of leather.
If you're in a pinch and need to realign just your cutting edge, you can use a leather belt. It'll do the trick. You can also in an emergency use window glass to put a crude edge on a knife. Glass is harder than steel.
You need to strop the blade as well to get the best from it to as the act of sharpening the blade creates a burr that degraded the final finish, with the cheap tool the burr is forced to be in the center and the ceramic helps to lessen the burr, on the $1000 kit when you sharpen it down to a fine edge you end up pushing the burr back and forth until it ends up on one of the sides, when you used a sharpening tool like the $1000 it is essential that you strop the blade to remove / align the burr
@@inibrius5380 For 1000 freakin dollars it should be INCLUDED in the kit, it's not his fault their cheap asses didn't even include everything you need to sharpen the knife. They decided to splurge and that 100% unnecessary Pelican case instead, shows how stupid they are.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 i dunno if it's stupid or if they just understand the kind of person that's dropping a grand on a sharpening kit...it's either an 'avid home user' that has more money than sense or a professional knife sharpener that wants to pick and choose what additional stuff they get. Check out the Project Farm knife sharpener review, he's a lot more detailed about why this isn't worth the $$.
@@autumn5592 Take a blade that you've 'properly sharpened'. test it's sharpness using one of the tools shown in the video. Then strop it and test it again. Then tell me it's not necessary. Even with a high-grit sharpening stone (10k+) you're not getting a perfectly smooth blade. A strop works to polish and align a blade after sharpening to get rid of any micro-imperfections for the best possible blade.
I 3d printed an Apex type knife sharpener. $4 in plastic, 2 8mm rods, a few bearings. Then I bought diamond stones that went up to 3,000 from amazon for $40. The stones had a 400, 500, and 600. I took the 500 and glued leather to it with Shoe Goo and clamped it between two pieces of steel to ensure it's flat and even. Fun project. After stopping I can hold a sheet of paper and with the middle of the edge cut into the flat of the page at about a 25° angle. I wish I could test it on a tester like yours. Just a cheap D2 knife.
Turned down the volume as soon as I saw that cinder block. Love these videos. This is probably my favorite RU-vid channel along with project farm. Thanks for taking your time to upload these.
It won't make it more accurate since neither included a strop. Adding additional sharpening accessories to the sharpening kit makes exactly zero kit. Hell add a blade smith to the kit to get the most accurate results while you're at it.
@@autumn5592 yes if you move up in grits and get to polishing you really don’t need to stop but he didn’t do that he used a coarse stone only so you def need to strop
@@imcrummy6114 No you don't. You can easily deburr on a 400-800 grit stone. (Takes a bit longer to learn the control, but in a system, takes all the skill out of it.)
The diamond stones have to be broken in on the wicked edge, you’ve also got to check for burr development, it’s a learning curve but it can get down to the 130 range with just the 1000 grit stones if you are patient enough.
I know there are several ways to improve the “sharpness’s” of a blade for sure. However what I think even one is forgetting is that he is comparing what’s in the box of a $4 dollar sharpener, vs a $1000 dollar sharpener. If you need something/anything else to get a good edge the $1000 dollar sharpener should include it. That’s it. He’s comparing the 2 in there ability to sharpen with what you get. Great video.
Many tasks require multiple tools to accomplish effectively, and higher-end tools are often sold "a la carte". Many $150 guitars come with straps, but many $5000 guitars don't, since it's much easier for a manufacturer to include a strap that would satisfy people buying a $150 guitar than one that would satisfy people buying a $5000 guitar.
@@smore94 then you must never work in a trade. A single mill machine in our shops can run upwards of 80k. That's for one of the smaller precision kits as well. If you KNOW what you're doing, and you know HOW to do it, then you get tools to cover every need.
@@DoraTheMFDestroya Comparably, what I'm telling you is that if I buy a car for $50k the thing better come with wheels and tires, specially in today's economy. People think too much of their products, stuff is ridiculous. I'd rather "get by" with a few polishing and sharpening stones than buy either one. Yes, I've worked trades. I spent 20 years of my life on our farm. We just didn't waste money.
I’ve bought man scape products in there absolutely terrible! You can I get a close shave with them and they also nick your skin still! Don’t ever buy their products!
Your desharpener AKA the cinderblock hurts my soul as a hobby knife maker. love these videos. I have an older model wicked edge with just 2 of the courser stone sets and get knives sharper than any other system Ive used. I need to get the really fine set some day. Stropping the blade after the sharpening is done will make it much better. .
What company would put out a $1000 sharpening system and not include leather strop attachments? They probably make them and charge an extra $100 for them. I can get a razor sharp finish with a $10 stone and my belt lol.
Exactly, $1000 and a stop isn't even included so they can charge an extra $100 bucks for the fools stupid enough to waste even more money on a fancy Lansky.
There are sharpening systems similar to that one in the range of 250$ which are much much sturdier and you get more stones. It's just a marketing piece where people think more expensive means better when in reality for that much money you could get a number of Shapton glass stones and have a razor worthy edge.
Here is the thing being a chef myself and have a huge love for knifes from cooking knifes to every day carry .. even though yes you used a $1000 sharpener you still need to use a honing steel to finish the fine tuming of the blades edge . I have used sharpeners that are upwards of $10,000 and I still at the end had to use a honing steel to get the fully desired edge . I have also used a $2 sharpener and gotten close results . Just one takes less time than the other to do . The only sure true way to get the sharpest edge without using a honing steelcis to use a grit that is so fine upwards of 10,000 grit wet paper also known as micro mesh or even a ceramic stone to hone it down to perfection . You can use the bottom of a ceramic coffee mug or even a bowl or plate with a lip on it . Or you can even use the ceramics off a spark plug as well or even use the back of another knife as well .
Can you do this again but remove the burr please?? Also instead of doing one side after the other in succession try sharpening one side completely then the other, after removing the burr.
I keep a work sharp in my kitchen drawer. The edge honer (ceramic) can make keeping your cheap or had me down knives cutting like a much more expensive knife. Best investment I ever made.
With the stone running along the blade you don't need to create a bur, nor are you particularly likely to. A burr is not essential to sharpening a blade, but when your sharpening motion is perpendicular to the blade you are highly likely to create a burr. Very hard steels are less likely to form a burr, but will still become super sharp
The knife sharpener for $ 4 gives the knife a raw edge, a sharpness that quickly disappears. The one for $ 1000 gives a more durable edge. But you made a mistake, you have to finish grinding on one side before grinding the other side. That is, you should not grind right, left, right left ...
When it comes to “rougher” grits below like 2000, you absolutely need to strop them or else you basically have a microscopic saw, that’s why they feel so insanely sharp but don’t actually preform how they feel. When you get to grits like 8000, stropping still will make your edge even sharper, but it’s so fine at that point that Most of those burrs aren’t even noticeable since they’re so insanely small
@@autumn5592 and where is this coming from / what’s the science behind it? Because at super coarse grits a wire burr forms on the edge. You need to either strop it or break it off, when you move on to the next grit you “strop” that wire off, and then start a finer wire and burr on the edge. As you get to finger grits, that wire and the burrs become much less tough and sometimes just pretty much disintegrate
@@riggsvsoliver Admittedly, yes, anecdotal. But there is a science of sharp article that proves it can be done with a relatively low grit. (Guy looks at the edge under an electron microscope.) You can sharpen knives (or anything really), without forming burrs, it's all in the technique.
I personally use a $15 WorkSharp Pocket Sharpener & a handmade Leather Strop with Super Fine stropping compound. So it starts on the Diamond Stone, then the Ceramic Rod & finished on the Leather Strop. I use that set up on every blade and follow the factory edge. The knives I use on the daily is a Victorinox Huntsman, Morakniv Eldris, Morakniv Kansbol, Morakniv Precision, Morakniv Spoon Knife. Other knives I own are Morakniv Filet, Leatherman Rev, Morakniv Rescue Knife, and a few cheapo back ups.
But. He did lmao. We're all human though. Can't expect Tyler to know everything. Unless it's about flex tape/glue. Lol. Knife sharpening is a long process with many steps aside from what he has done here.
The motion you used results in a wire edge. Most instructions I have describe "trying to cut the top layer from the stone" Retry with a downward motion. Also there should not be a need to use each grit in number, the finest two should do it. I'm the son of a barber (for 60+ years) and great nephew of a master machinist. On top of that a friends dad is a chef. So I can sharpen a straight razor to a c.)old chisel with a chefs knife being the best working edge (longest lasting.)
Definitely user error. You need to strop both for starters and also the diamond stones on the wicked edge aren't broken in. Use a tool drawer liner and use that to lock the spine in solid in the vice to prevent movement. Also use a sharpie to verify you're properly apexing your edge. It's the user not the tool I have one and can guarantee you better results than this 😂
True but at this point i know its hard to not say anything and i feel the same way but its getting kinda toxic even though he says he doesnt care. Your 100% right they are quite simple rookie mistakes to make you would think after all these sharpening videos he would know what to do but you have to respect him for who he is
@@xd-qi6ry I mean all he had to do was read the user manual. I lost respect for him when he started playing with high voltage like an idiot. He's going to get himself killed in the pursuit of views and I don't have respect for that 💯
Maybe he's showing which is easier just out of the box for average person who doesn't know about this skill or read manuals. For those average people they'll fare better with cheap one because expensive one is too complicated for them.
This is why all sharpening systems suck. All I need are a few whetstones which cost a fraction of the price and I could probably get the edge into the 70s. Granted it takes a long time and lots of patience to be able to master whetstone sharpening, but it by far the best way. I've been sharpening for a few years now and have had better results than any knife sharpening system i've seen on the internet. Not to mention, if you put an expensive hand crafted Japanese chef's knife in one of these, it will destroy it. Not to say that whetstone sharpening is the only way to get a knife sharp, but I have found that it is the most effective.
The 430 or whatever is where that knife started at. It was always 200+ off from the other knife. SO maybe its the knife not the person who sharpened it trying to get out work on time on a friday LOL
but they were both equally dull after he destroyed them, so it doesn't matter how sharp the factory was, both tools were used to try make the edge as sharp as possible, so the $1000 sharpener should had made the edge way sharper than the sharper knife from the factory
No they werent equally dull. That one knife was still 200+ off from the other one. It never changed from being that 200+ off. Thats why I think it was more the knife. The one started at 230 grams, went to 1880. The second knife went from 400 to 2030 thats still off by the initial 200+ difference. So they were never EQUAL.
5:57 - Whether or not a blade can shave hair is not really a measurement of how sharp it is though, some of the sharpes knives I have right now does not shave without excessive force, while some that are alot less sharp by a good margin will do it. Of course it has to be reasonably sharp to begin with, but whether or not it bites into hair instead of gliding over it is mostly up to edge angle, scratch pattern, geometry, steel type and grit used. I personally find that knives sharpened on either really low grit or really high grit shaves easily, but medium grits do not.
This kind of proves my thought on the angle the knife is sharpened matters more than the type of sharpener you use. Plus you don't need to get really fine. The coarser the grit the better grip your knife has to cut. But, yeah. It be like that.
I feel like it’s all in the technique. Was the angle matched? did a burr occur? That wicked edge system is amazing and if done right will produce hair splitting sharp knives. So will a $60 lansky. It’s all in the technique. Also whatever that fan, clutch, squeak is, it’s very distracting. You might consider a lav mic on your shirt or a boom mic closer to your mouth to eliminate the shop noise. Cheers brother 🤙🏻
On each knife you can only make it as sharp as the steel will let you i would like to see this again with some treated steel or maybe you could find a graph on what steel can be sharpest
The Wicked edge isn’t for the faint of heart but I think it’s worth it. I wouldn’t let any of my knives come close to that 4 dollar sharpener especially when u have a couple that cost more than the wicked edge.
For a little bit more money, about 1200, you get a Tormek T8 whetstone sharpening and honing machine. Much more control and precision than the wicked edge type. I recommend...
Tyler if you woukd pull top down instead of push up the stones. May you please try that please? I am a light enthusiast. But with my cheap little Lansky kot it make a hell of a difference.
I'm just imagining the wicked edge being used by some like, knife pro. They get paradropped next to some resort in the alps, infiltrate the kitchen and sharpen all the knives to perfection. The day is saved. But honestly if'd get a knife sharpener for 1000$ I'd expect that thing to do it automatically. I think this is the second time I've seen someone use test whicked edge and they also didn't like it.
That little work sharp isn't bad for $4. I bought it a few months back for some old pocket knives that were obscenely dull to test out and wanted something cheap for my apparently new knife collecting hobby I've picked up from this channel and others. Definitely got it very sharp. I've gotten a better one since then. But if I remember correctly the packaging said it was for "outdoor survival yadda yadda" on it. I just threw it in my work bag now. I got the electric work sharp that Tyler used in his other videos and it I like it. For a beginner like me it'll give me some good practice and it was affordable.
I use a carbide edge streightner for worst, a cheapo diamond rod sharpener for gross, and a lucolox ceramic tube from an old sodium vapor lamp for fine. The combination can sharpen all but zirconium carbide ceramic type knives. 🤓
You get a wicked edge to sharpen good and expensive knives. Not trash knives. The edge pro is better more versatile sharpening system at a cheaper price. Though it does have a slightly higher learning curve. Also you need to remove the burr before testing on the BESS Also you need some technique to sharpen correctly. Also your knives are too soft. Actual professionals that use the wicked edge get far better results. Its not for the novice.
Hi Tyler, When I was in 1st grade in 1960 my parent's could not afford glue for my school projects. My mom would mix flour in water and that was my glue. I wonder if you placed this glue between two wooden blocks if it eould hold up. Also the clamps you use, I wonder how many pounds they can hold to.
I don't think you removed the burr on the wicked edge. You can get a hair whitening edge with a 600 grit edge but you have to remove the burr, I suggest using a strop
I have a nice little knife collection with some pretty high end steels. I think CPM-M4 is the hardest steel I have, and it takes the longest sharpen. The Ken Onion Worksharp powered sharpener cost me like $60, and gets it done in about 5 minutes. That includes setting up and putting away the machine. Then a few licks on the strop and it's shaving sharp. Those $4 sharpeners remove too much of the high end steel I pay for. Maybe on cheap kitchen knives I'd use it. But I'd much rather use the machine, or simply do it by hand.
If I had a need, I'd get a mini belt sander and also use it to sharpen knives. But... I have another brand identical to that $4 knife sharpener that I use for touching up my knives and pocket knives. If I need to resharpen a really bad knife, I have a 2 zone Smith's sharpener for that that does well enough. Also, the knives used for this test really don't do adequate justice to show how well the Wicked Edge can do. Maybe next time, use better higher quality blades.
Tyler... it's time. Leave things in pickling brine for 30 days(make your own brine). The best part is you should be able to taste test most of it as long as stuff stays submerged in the liquid and you can it! (In other words I'm telling you to make your own pickles and taste them🤣)
I feel like this is a tad bit of user error and the fact that you have never use this which is fine if you put someone who's used it for years I feel like there would have been better results and by the way I love your content and you've been on a good uploading streak with great videos every day
A sharpener like this is probably for people who sharpen things professionally. IE Specialty chisel blades or hand planers for master carpenters, knives for chef de cuisine of a fine sea food or sushi/sashimi restaurant, blades for surgeons etc. Etc. But for someone who's a hobbiest and collects knives, this is overkill and a probably not a wise investment. I could never see myself owning something like this unless I was ridiculously rich and wanted to become a master blade sharpener just for fun.
User Error again my guy. Burr management is key. I could take an edge with 300 grit and get it hair popping sharp. Gotta be light With those hands when sharpening also
I haven't even seen the video, but as soon as you said work sharp, I'm already saying the work sharp is going to surprise you. Worksharp is amazing. I sharpen knives for a living...without worksharp i would legitimately be broke. My favorite sharpener is the ken onion edition of the work sharp. I got aome after market belts from amazon so I have grits from 80 all the way up to 12,000.
I will say, the wicked edge knife sharpener can get amazing results. Project Farm used it in a knife sharpening comparison video and get his knife to 100g
The other big thing is the 4 dollar “sharpener” doesn’t really sharpen, it removes layers of metal each time. Which of you have a nice knife it will destroy it over time by cutting away at the core metal unevenly because most kitchen knives are made of a sandwich steel with the core being more brittle but sharper steel vs the outside. So basically you would want to use the nice stones if you have expensive knives but if you just have 20 dollar knives the 4 dollar one is fine.
At least the low cost sharpener has the cutting edge down. Is it good to have a wicked edge knife blade turned up. One slip and you have a wicked cut!!!!
Just watched this. I own a WE sharpening system and it’s awesome. Even only going to 1000 grit it provides repeatable near razor blade edges. I would politely suggest that you read the manual again. You’re clearly doing several things wrong. Project Farm guy was able to get BESS 100 level sharpness with exactly the same model. Also .. use a decent knife steel. It matters. You can’t polish a turd.
Just assuming, probably the cheap metal of the knifes gave you a hard time? Wondering if a test with better quality knifes will bring the significant difference you expect :).
17:35 the included stones sounds to me like a nasty marketing gamic. Sell the sharpener at, I bet 999.99. And then include stones that only go up to a grid that would be at best a good start. That way the next thing you do is order some more stones which will probably 'only' cost like 79.99 per set extra. Edit, sorry, commented before seeing all of the rest of the video. Make that 255 dollar, not 80, for the extra stones.
Let this video be a lesson that no matter how much money you have, you can't buy skill and practice. Blade sharpening is a skilled craft, like any other. Just because you buy the most expensive tools don't mean you know how to use them. A professional with a 1 dollar whetstone and a strop could smoke any sharpener on the market because they have practiced it.. they know what they're doing and what they're trying to accomplish. Granted for the avg joe, the 4 dollar knife sharpener will slice up your veggies just fine.. at the cost of removing more material, so your knives won't last as long. However, if you want surgical sharp... practice, practice, practice.
Gotta draw a burr… The WE also won’t shave metal off the knife in the same way which is better for the longevity of the knife… also with the WE the results are extremely consistent so when re sharpening you remove even less metal than original
What was the differences of the 2 knives? Wasnt the knife sharpened with the $1000 sharpener over 2k on the scale? Thats a big improvement! Cant remember what the other one was though
Besides the other comments about you doing it wrong I won't get into that but for me the real difference between a cheap sharpener vs expensive is longevity of the sharpener AND blade. Not only that but sharpeners like that $5 tend to actually CHIP harder knife blades. It works ok on softer blades. A $5 sharpener might make a knife sharper but not for long they also tend to shave off more metal than really needed, lowering the life of the blade. The $5 wont last as long as the more expensive unit. I wouldn't sharpen a $100 knife on a $5 sharpener, ill be using a nice whetstone.
Got the same whetstone my grandaddy had, which he passed down to my dad, and now me. Slap my knife on there, run it on my belt, good enough to shave with.
The point people are missing is the 4 dollar sharpener did as food if not better than the 1000 dollar set with way less hassle and effort. Sure you can strop it afterwards but thats not the point of this test. The point is you can strop an equivalent sharp knife and save 996 dollars
