When wiring in a flexible cord, you should always make the earth wire the longest in case you gett a pulling force on the cord. For example if you stumbled over the cord and yanked the live wires out of its socket the case off the machine will still be grounded and tripp the overcurrent braker or fault circuit breaker.
Fascinating and a great option when you live in close quarters and you don't want your neighbors to smell a coal fire or see propane flames rolling out of your garage. Great video.
To use the 'socket system' I would definitely recommend going 10mm² cables. The induction heater itself might use 6mm², but then you're adding the water pump, a potential cooler, and whatever else you decide off that same supply.
Also the temperature rating of the wiring is often different. That short section will have higher resistance and heat up more. The insulation must be rated for that. The much longer cord will drop the voltage excessively and may not be rated for the temperature, or the connection points (breaker) may not be rated for the heat.
@@court2379 Not only that. Multi-core cables have completely different specifications than single-core cables laid in air, e.g. in cable ducts or control cabinets. It should also be noted here that this is a flexible cable of a special type (this is mandatory if a supply line is used as mobile and with a plug connection). These cables have to be specially insulated, heat-resistant (for use in the workshop, here in a smelter anyway!) and suitable for recurring rolling up and unrolling, against stepping loads, etc. This further reduces the allowed current factor. As an example: A single-core 10mm^2 cable can be loaded with up to 70A if laid optimally (e.g. harmonized flexible cable in switch cabinets), in a multi-core cable with 2 loaded strands and as a sheathed cable lying on the cable duct (or the floor) only with 63A and in thermally insulated walls with 43A. Keep in mind that the protection of the plug and cable (i.e. directly on the plug connection as is often the case with you English and Americans, but mostly in the distribution box) determines the dimensioning of the supply line[1]. For example, you can't use 0.08mm^2 for something that technically would allow it (3A), but that would completely negate the point of fuses, as your cable would burn out immediately, posing a risk of fire and electric shock in the event of a failure . (Note, 0.08 only applies to individual wires in the control cabinet with a load capacity of 3A. For 3A as a plug-in cable or openly laid multi-core cable, at least 3x0.5mm^2 is required!!!). Furthermore, everything is specified for 20°C. For example, if the normal ambient temperature is 40°C, the dimensioning must be corrected by a factor of 0.82. If a three-phase device is operated, the above values change from 63A to 57A. If the cable is operated in the wound state, then an additional factor of 0.80 applies for one winding layer and 0.61 for two. All of this can be read in DIN VDE 0298 Part 4. Greetings from Germany, by the way:) In other countries, corresponding standards apply, because despite some differences, the physics are still the same!:) [1] You're all making a mistake with your thinking (or lack of knowledge?) there. A deadly one;) "That short section will have higher resistance and heat up more." Shorter means LESS resistance and better conductance = less heat-loss. R=ρ*l/A. Where ρ is the specific resistance (copper cables ~= 0,0169...0,0175 Ω · mm2/m), for a straight conductor with a constant cross-sectional area A, and the length l. Do the math. When the l(ength) gets smaller, the R(esistance) also gets smaller. "The insulation must be rated for that." Yes, that is the whole point of all those regulations and the data sheet of the cable. There is no insulation which does somehow magically allow for an out of specification used cable with the wrong cross-section. As said above those these special requirements reduce the heat dissipation of the system (conductor + reinforcement + additives + sheathing + construction + routing type) and that requires the higher dimensioning of the conductor cross-section. WE MOVE IN THIS CAUSAL DIRECTION OF THINKING ... and not the other way around(we start from our CURRENT REQUIREMENTS ... and then choose cable and type of cable!), which doesn't make any sense. "The much longer cord will drop the voltage excessively[sic!]" .... WHUT? U=R*I ... "and may not be rated for the temperature" ... P=U*I where you can calculate your heating with the constant for copper. NO MAGIC! And in no case "excessively" ROTFL. BTW for every 10m PLUG-IN cable over 10m length we use a factor of 0.9. That automatically makes you use a bigger cross-section if you are in need of such cables. And now back to you. WTF??? If you make the cable double as long, you get double the resistance and double the power loss over this purely thermal resistance. This means double the thermal energy has to be dissipated. That was your thought .... or something in that direction? But you absolutely forgot that we now have the double amount of copper ... the double physical amount of REAL COPPER dissipating the same heat as before. All rules that are mentioned (they are not complete!!!) are in place. The loss of voltage over a ridiculously long power cord may be a thing (I said how we mitigate this!), but your point with the influence on temperature is total nonsense!:) "or the connection points (breaker) may not be rated for the heat." IF ... sorry I have to calm down:) If the specialist who made the house connection for you and the wiring of your sockets did NOT use the standardized fuses, then ... I don't know what to do anymore. Again, temperatures are not a problem at all. If a connector is designed for 63A, then it has to withstand it! More than that cannot flow over it. Then the fuse must blow. THAT'S THE EFFING SENSE BEHIND ALL THIS FUN!
@@court2379 If I see you anywhere near an outlet with a screwdriver, I'll smack you so hard you'll understand Ohm's Law and specific electrical resistance in an instant. This is of course meant metaphorically. It is for your own safety that you never mess around with power cords, as you have shown clearly that you lack even the basic understanding of the principles behind it (you got it even wrong ... in the other direction ... the direction that leads to fire and death).
While it might sound good in theory, peltier coolers would not be a great idea for this thing. They have terrible efficiency and don't really scale well with massive amounts of heat. Keep in mind that pretty much all of the wattage consumed by one is converted into more heat you need to somehow dissipate from the hot side. They quickly get swamped with the amounts of heat a device like this needs to put up with. Secondly, they just really aren't needed. This device doesn't need to ever be cooled below ambient temperatures (or really even down to ambient). The main goal of the cooler unit is just to keep it (and the coil) from turning into a liquid. A simple radiator and fan is more than capable of doing exactly that, especially at the temp differences you are likely to be seeing. Thermal issues would be better solved by a bigger radiator, fan, or just another cooler unit running in parallel.
This video is really useful. I'm a UK blacksmith by profession and looking into if I should get an induction heater, this answered most of my questions in an easy to understand way 👌👏 Much appreciated
Thank you so much. It's certainly very convenient for small jobs and short localized heats. For large batches and bigger stuff I use my coke/charcoal forge. Cheers J
I’d absolutely put an additive in there anyway to avoid any galvanic corrosion. Also, the amount and cost of peltier coolers would be cost and power prohibitive for the amount of heat it’s likely to generate. The heat pump is better. If you want to improve the cooling, you could consider replacing that aluminum coil with a more efficient heat exchanger (radiator, AC condenser, etc) - just be cognizant of pressure drops as they tend to be quite restrictive and may require some testing to meet the low pressure drop of the coil. Or you could deftly add some fins to the coil, if you’re comfortable with the fiddly TIG welding required. Could also add a second water tank on that cart and connect it in series to the other to increase the heat capacity in the system. You could also dump the airlock and look into a swirl pot to remove gases from the system. All good ideas for future projects!
One thing you can do is use bigger tubing or flattened tubing to make your own coils for heating stuff. Just make sure the coils allow water through. Also silver plating the coils makes them work a lot better. That thing has the biggest flyback transformer i have ever seen inside it. Most likely it uses a big IGBT to drive the inductor capacitor tank circuit with it being optimized in current mode. 500 isnt bad for the unit and the cooler. Might want to get a spare IGBT module and capacitor (the big white one) for it.🤓
Lookig forward to hearing your thoughts on this set up and also as my valued subscribers, enjoy these discount Codes on the VEVOR website: Joshua5 - save £5 off everything Joshua10 - save £10 off over £200
Is it possible to melt and cast powdered steel using that induction forge? for example, if you made a small plaster mold of a 3d print could you fill the caster mold with a powdered steel and then melt the steel powder right inside the mold? I could see this being really useful for small strong but complex parts.
The variations of this forge (keep small quantities in mind) specify a top end temperature of 4000F. Obviously drops as you increase the size of a pot, quantity and distance from the coils.
We use induction heating all the time in the Dam's. We use it to braze the jumpers on the core of the stator. It will liquify two pieces of 3/8" copper buss in about 45 seconds.
FYI, diH2O is functionally identical to distilled (outside of a lab setting) and both with dissolve aluminum and copper over time, and i mean a pretty short time- months to years based on temperature and dissolved oxygen
Something to consider with water pumps is "head height". The further up the pump has to push the water against gravity the less pressure it will have at the end. If you had the water cooler mounted beside or above the induction unit you would probably find you get better water pressure then you do with it right next to the floor where it is now. As a hobbyist that doesn't get a lot of spare time an induction forge is the dream bit of kit. Being able to go out, switch something on and be forging in under 5 minutes would be amazing. As it is now with coal or gas I have to wait until I know I have a few hours spare before it's even worth it.
Thank you. Yeah the cooler I got says it does 10Lpm and can push that up 10m in height so you would have thought it was enough, it's just enough but a new pump is still cheaper that an different model. Cheers J
I do agree that you loose presure when pumping water hightwise, but that actually is not rally the situation in this case. Because this system is a "closed loop system". So the preassure (energy) you lose by pumping the water upp is regained when the water is pouring down again (inside a pipe). If you would meassure the pressure at the top of the circuit and the bottom you would get a higher preassure at the bottom. But it's actually missleading because it's showing you the static preassure. What is important in this case is that the pressure is enought so that the water can get squezed through the thin passages inside the "radiators" in the induction forge. (I think it's called dynamic preassure). I hope you understand how i mean, it would be easier to explain in a drawing...
The 32a mcb can take more power as 13a socket you can use a 3hp motor on your compressor which draws 20A!! Most supply fuses / trips / MCB are delayed!!! Just be careful about repeating this abuse as can unstuck which i have turned up to many jobs!!!!
Superb video Joshua- unbelievable detail, personally I cannot see anything wrong with your wiring up at all. Very interesting and accurate how you worked out the costings. Total credit / respect to you. 👏👍
Bravo........and that's a toy........they do bronze or stainless 30 lbs..........1 min..........ceramic shell casting........great tool........can u temper to.....cheers
Don't forget that coal can sit for 50 years and still be good. Also, coal doesn't have any capacitors to go bad or circuit boards that there is not a rats chance to ever get a replacement for. If its toss up, then coal is the clear choice over a massive assembly of unknown origin and quality standard Chinese parts - of every sort every imagined. And the water cooling? Another item just aching for issues. Especially in the USA coal and coke are available anywhere in the east by the ton and natural gas is likely 1/3 the cost of Europe. Fair chance now that your gas is American anyway due to that monster Putin. Only the ON/OFF switch is really attractive. But Complicated Chinese electronics seem to have a hidden, built in OFF switch. With unknowable time to failure.
While wiring you twisted copper with your fingers. Never do this, because your fingers have fat and salt on it which you transfer to copper. That causes corrosion and leads to higher resistance and can end in fire! Better is using crimp sleeve before screwing on terminal
Peltier devices would do absolutely nothing in that cooler. A more efficient approach would be to put a finned cooler in there with more surface area such as a transmission oil cooler . that smooth tubing wont do much .
Just subscribed, what a generous RU-vidr. I’m in the area of crafting with scrap metal etc, these videos are fantastic. Anyway, you’re a super gifted artist, please keep making these amazing videos.
There is a restriction on over heating. I'm currently putting an upgraded cooling system on mine so I can do larger heats. My current cooler is the cheap end and isn't enough for long periods of time forging. Cheers J
Working in a manufacturing facility that has an induction machine and an induction hardener, one of the warning notices advised that it should not be used by someone with a pacemaker. Our units are large so I don't know if a smaller unit would have the same effect. Just thought I would mention this.
The green safety line (I guess) is supposed to be longer than the phase and neutral line so if it gets pulled it goes the last. When you use clamp terminals use cable tubes with a good crimp tool Sorry for the bad English :)
Couldn't watch the ending... I passed out... I would have just used a sausage for a demo rather than my own finger... Learn from a wise old woman - Never never put live flesh into an induction heater/ machine type thingy...otherwise live flesh will become burnt offerings... Aghhhhhhhh.....
Seems like this could be a good setup for the hobbyist who doesn't want he faff of a coal forge or the noise and expense of a gas forge. Makes me think I could get back to forging again despite my urban environment...
I think that would be a good example of its convenience. You may still want an extraction system for the burning oils on the steel, but a well ventilated space would be fine for most people. Cheers J
A word on the electrics (from an Ex-Spark) Your house, you can do what you want! As an amateur (on electrics) you did not do too bad a job of it! It is important to realise that this is not what the IEE Regs are about as it it portable equipment so while good working practices of general sparking apply they are not cast iron rules! The existing connection was a death trap and the single best thing you did was to remove it! You should not wire socket up relying on the earth from the metal bodywork, but put a separate green and yellow wire to it! Your main earthing point to the bodywork was good (a proper crimped lug) ..... just use this stud to pick up your earth for your socket! In an ideal situation you would then take your socket from the bottom (load side) of your breaker. This means that if someone switches the breaker off the cooler also goes off. The flip side is that you add your cooler load to your forge load and that might cause tripping. I could not tell what type of breaker you had but it should me a "M" type for magnetic devices (they have a different time / trip curve). You have a lot of bare copper showing on the top of the breaker. Most sparks would make it a point of pride not to have Any copper showing above the clamp of the breaker ... but definitely no insulation under it eather! Many would also use a crimped ferrule. Running your main supply through the socket is not good practice, but I understand why you would want a downward facing gland. Again most sparks would also have a boot over the gland, especially in that environment. When you choose your flex size two things are inportant the Length and the Size. For the length you need to look in a table to work out your volt drop per meter and see if your length of run will cause problems. The Size will give you the current carrying capacity of the flex. You need to make sure you are reading from the correct table as 6mm T+E (house wiring) will have a different capacity from 6mm Flex. In your case I don't think the run length will not be a problem and you should also be OK with 6mm on a 32A breaker. The fact that it is not a constant load will also work in your favour. As I said Not a bad job!
Thank you so much this is brilliant information and should help others to do a safer job also. All the very best. You input is much appreciated. Cheers J
Hi @@joshuadelislewhy use SY cable it is NOT armoured!! SY is for machine interconnect control cable not supply!! I have seen people come unstuck with SY thinking it is better protected but not the metal screening is to stop electrical noise especially with inverter drivers to motor's!! A big miss conception!! Even Googling: Low smoke cable variations should be installed for environments where safety is critical, to limit the danger to life or equipment. Under the IET Wiring Regulations (BS 7671), YY, SY and CY control cables are not recommended for use as part of a fixed installation.1 Mar 2023
@@staccio80 it's not quite enough flow but you can trick it with a valve. Mine is still working great but could benefit from a larger water tank or radiator to help cool it better. Cheers J
How many amps is your breaker? There seems to be very crappy literature regarding the input power. Some sources are saying it only needs 7kw input power which is like 28 amps. But I am worried it needs 15kw, which would be 62 amps, and I would need a 100 amp breaker to be at 80% capacity!
you shoul've used cable aluminium fitting, so the copper wire remain compact and squeezed in the thread hole ;), sorry im an electrician, overall WELL DONE :D!
Good video on the product well done, on the cable there normally a reason for 10mm cable you didn’t say how long it can be ? As there will be Voltage drop over a long length recommend max 2m long 10mm on your CCU there was no RCD or MCBO hear again recommend 30mil amp RCD this can be 100Amp format with TT earth Rod as you have a metal man den we don't won't you getting a electric shock do we. Keep up the good work.
A trained electronics theory man here, this induction heater probably works in the neighborhood of 100KHz which is what causes the iron/steel to heat up. It’s all about the materials reacting to a high frequency magnetic field. That’s what this machine generates through the copper pipe. It’s about the hysteresis loss happening in the work piece. If one had a ferrite material coupling that RF field very close to the workpiece, the hotspot would be smaller.
Nice demonstration. A few nitpicks/ comments: I wouldn't worry about your breakers being exceeded the ratings for the vast majority of breakers is their 100% duty cycle load. A 40amp breaker should handle 40 amps continuously pretty much forever. They all have a performance/trip curve which specifies how quickly they will trip at a given current. Any device that has a large inductive load will create a huge spike at start-up unless very carefully designed not to with things like soft starters and the like. I suspect that the peak power levels registered are for a few milli seconds. I have a 2.4Kw single phase saw that draws 20 amps at start-up without the soft starter. Big transformer welders and the like can spike to over 100 amps for a fraction of a second on the input. I run a 20amp welder off a 16am breaker and it only trips if I've got the welder absolutely maxxed out for more than a few minutes at a time. You should be fine unless you absolutely stress the system with a continuous maximum load for minutes at a time. Peltier coolers are totally inappropriate for this application, they are nifty solid state devices but they are at best 5% ish efficient so they don't work well for large heat loads. You'd need a proper form of refrigeration system to actually significantly reduce the temps although I'd suggest a proper radiator to replace the alloy tubing as an easier intermediate option. Water, even deionised water is a self ionising solvent. Small amounts oc H2O will dissociate into HO+ and H3O- spontaneously and will pick up metal ions over time. It's probably a good idea to add some form of corrosion inhibitor to the coolant mix to retard galvanic corrosion enabled by the water. Just some things to consider. I love how accessible these decent quality tools have become. Thanks for sharing.
Your flow rate/pressure/hose size doesn't make sense. A smaller hose won't raise outlet pressure, if flow remains constant. It will increase the pressure lost over the hose, if it is a restriction. That could raise the inlet pressure, if flow is unchanged, but it will lower outlet pressure.
The comment about the cooler is useful. I looked up what's needed for circulation for an english marked version of this thing in the US, and it's 7.5 liters per minute at a 98 foot head. The former probably isn't that difficult, but at a 98 foot head (!!), it's not going to a $30 fish tank pump.
I don't think you're going to trip this unit. I have one like yours with a 30A break and it never triggered no matter what I did running it at 240V. So is not a 15KW unit but something less than 7KW unit.
Just found your videos; firstly, I must thank you for all the time and effort that must be involved. To add something to the current plumbing discussion: Other than as needed to trip the pressure switch inside the induction heater box, your chiller pump does not "need" backpressure in order to work. The flow of any pump will always be at a maximum at zero head/back-pressure. Regarding mounting the heater above the chiller: clearly the pump generates enough pressure to get the water up to the heater, and once the return line is primed all the way back to the tank, this creates a syphon effect which means that effectively the pump will be working at zero head (just provided the return lines dip below the surface of the water in the chiller tank). I don't think you should need to throttle the flow on any of your outlet valves, unless the pressure switch doesn't actuate without this. Thanks again - Subscribed !
The other thing I could add would be if you Tee'd all your outlets togther, the combined flow might be enough to purge air bubbles without needing the vent valve ?
The power cord: Don't look at your machine/tool what amount it draws for a current. LOOK AT YOUR OUTLET! That breaker at the machine protects the machine, not your power cable. The breaker in the socket or your house cabinet protects the plug-in connection AND the cable to the device. They have to be ON SPEC with that current. Movable, plug-able, highly flexible and hardwearing cables have a lesser ability to dissipate heat. So you should use the 10mm^2 recommendation. In fact you have put an extra device and TWO extra plug-able outlets on that wire strand. Depending on the wiring you actually have to provide the device with the 10mm^2 spec plus 2x your standard outlet current (Otherwise you never can use the outlets to their specifications ... this should be clear?). I am not a friend of such botches ... They trigger in the worst case or they lead to other problems and technical difficulties or worse ... if wrong dimensioned. Anyway, please ask a professional about his opinion. The internet has many opinions ... too many! Ya know:) Thanks for the entertaining video and showing this off, Joshua! Subscribed!:) Edit, Addendum: I don't know the exact wiring, but your little outlets are now fused with 63A, the one from the house installation? (Because they are directly on the power cord, is my assumption here) ... DON'T DO THIS!:) Needs extra and appropriate dimensioned fuses. No comment on the clamping of the cable strands without cable ferrules. You did use them with the outlet box, so I guess you fixed that later. Remember: No ferrules on stranded flexible wire of that cables is a death sentence (at least for the copper, hehe). Possibly anywhere but definitely in a machine shop, with vibrations, rotating and loud machines and near a 60Hz humming 15kW device. I am sure you fixed that!:) Edit2: Later you mentioned that the house installation is fused with 32A? The problem with the outlet stays. At least the 6mm^2 is correctly fused then ... which goes into a 63A fuse at the induction device. Hmmm .... Oh ... and a German Problem: Is the 3 phase plug-in standardized for 32A or just fused that way? You know ... no one prevents somebody putting that device into the right dimensioned outlet:) (Famous last words: "That fits!" ... If that is not possible, because this size cannot go over 32A, then forget that aspect ... its all good! Hehe).
Not sure how it's rated at 15kW (min 60A@250v) if you only have it on a 32A breaker (8kW@250v). There will be reactive power effects and heat output is related to Amps not Volts in that instance (P=I²R) so watch your power factor. I noticed a PF of 0.8 so that would enable you to get 32/0.8 A reactive current from your 32A breaker or 40A reactive. So still only 2/3 of full 60A needed for 15kW. Interesting situation.
I only see this now, 1 year later. Will you still look at comments? I also want to aquire a induction heater and cooler unit, so if possible, can you still share the source?
Thank you. I don't think it's available anymore from VEVOR. They only have limited stock of any item. You can still get this machine but it's over £1000 now I think. Cheers J
great video and well explained , a bit different from your forge, here in Central Canada a friend of mine has was you would call a breakers business recycling buses and he and his partner have purchased induction coil heaters for the purpose of removing rusted bolts and hardware versus using a torch all the time and these units work the same way and vastly outperform a torch hands down and the amount of time to recycle all the metal and components is getting shorter with each bus they do and much of this work is done outside in our winters minus 15 -25 Celsius is common and their cost for refuelling the torch tanks has dropped by 75%, the initial setup costs were not bad some 50 and 100 foot extension cords 12 gauge and 10 gauge for the bigger wattage units they bought and no major issues as of yet and its been roughly 10 months, he says it beats a torch and you don't have to worry like you would have to set down a torch or relighting it, of course you have to be careful where you'd set down the induction heater of course, our Hydro rates are the cheapest in North America so they save again in this way also , I am going to purchase an automotive sized unit for myself for home automotive use and repairs working on older vehicles, the costs are not bad, 😂
One cost associated with combustion forges that should be considered when choosing which to use is the health consequence. Combustion byproducts are terrible for your lungs, and over the course of decades even a relatively small reduction in use could save you a small fortune worth of health related costs and extend your quality of life significantly.
You could add an additional insulated reservoir. Then have your cooler chill the reservoir and get another pump to circulate the chill water. You could increase flow rate that way. If you have the space to add another reservoir
Well and if you’re working in a breaker box don’t be wearing your wedding ring because there was an electrician and he was wearing his wedding ring he reached inside and blew his finger off
We use server grade antifreeze for our laser which is relatively cheap and non conductive. This is for the UK as the glass can be damaged below 12'c. I would probably do the same for this.
Noting the chiller - one needs to realise that most coolers / airconditioners / etc, which we commonly relate to, ultimately exchange to the air (it is air cooling, just using remote methods to "pump the heat"), IF the airflow over the cooling coil disn't adequate, that would be because the case was to restrictiver, (exchanger too small) or the fan not effective enough - ie not passing enough air past the coils. Adding said "peltier device" would work to consume energy and heat the air inside the case more - there would only be a benefit if one were to send (sink) the additional heat to an external exchanger - or a larger "cold sink" - even having a compressor refrigeration system "in the box" may not solve total problems (IF it were the case as may have been expressed early in the video)- unless the heat were pumped elsewhere - there is a reason why refrigerators pump the heat into the room outside the "cold compartment" (mini spit can remove that to the outside easily enough) - and why many (compressor) portable room airconditioners don't make a lot of sense - the heat needs to be sent outside, and they tend to pump a lot of cooled air outside in the process with whatever ducting is supplied (sealing the window is also a hassle...
I have one complaint regarding your channel Joshua ...... Not enough content 😁 .Your presenting is second to none . How's the new workshop coming along ?
Thank you so much Sean. It's coming but I've gotten roped into other pressing priorities at the moment, could be a very busy year coming. Looking for slabs for the floor and will fit the doors soon.
It's a ceramic fiber. Any time the hot steel touches it melts. It's there for insulation to stop the coil shorting itself. It's cooled with water yes. Cheers J
Induction heaters are very good for heating steel but very inefficient heating other metals. You can't melt steel with induction because at high temperature steel looses its magnetic properties and absorbs 50 times less energy.
Make sure you don’t have any copper showing when terminating cables into the breaker, also I would use a brass lock ring in the metal clad box. Love your videos 👍
I’ve seen those before and had the chance to use one as well. The best part is the on/off feature. Coal, and even gas, takes time to get going and cool down.
One of the reasons why I'm considering an induction forge is because it doesn't throw off as much heat as either gas or coal. Though I don't live in an area known for high heat (Rhode Island) we do get stretches of time where the temps are above 27 to 80C (roughly 80 to 85F). Forging at those temps and above can range from not fun to just plain dangerous. An induction forge would allow me to forge during that weather without the added heat risk of a gas or coal forge.
I have absolutely no need for one of these, but it’s still interesting to watch! I see you’re still in the little shed though; what’s happened with the new workshop on the side of the house? Thanks as always for sharing 👍
Thank you. Other shed has been used for larger projects I haven't shown yet. It's also waiting for the doors and new floor. It's also gotten filed with with junk that I don't know why I keep. Cheers J
Hi @Joshua!This is a nice tool !I think it is for fast and special work !Thank you for showing !Greeting #Bulatsschmiede from germany (Bulat the Blacksmith)😊🤙
I heard if you get the coils right, winds, frequency, whatever clever business is in the guts; it's specific to the exact stock you're doing and like a microwave (kinda but not), you can heat from the inside out in seconds (even fat stuff, inch square, more). But this is all really new to me so thank you very much for showing us the guts. If energy production does manage to go green, this has to be the future. We love coke, but we simply can't burn it forever. Same goes for gas, diesel furnace, whatever.
Thank you. I think anything that contains rare earth minerals isn't sustainable, I'm not sure how much of the internal parts can be eternally recycled. I use sustainable charcoal sourced from a local coppice that encourages long term bio diversity and growth, but this tool is very convenient and great for certain projects that need a localised heat. All the very best. Cheers J
Yeah it's always going to be hard to choose "greenest". It's like "least bad" is best. I had not even considered coppicing because my supply is coke and it's an urban environment. But that's a really good idea. Even do the thing where you double back the wood gas to heat the box with the wood in it, I dno if you call that retort or not. But that's like digging up even less fossils. Yeah I'll be locking that in the memory banks. I get distracted easily but I think I can hang on to this.
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Peltier is a heat pump/dc generator, not a cooler 😉
If you put a current through a peltier it takes heat from one side to cool the other. It's used in dehumidifiers and PC cooling systems. Look it up. Cheers J
