I'm an instrument repair technician in training, brand new. My boss called me and told me "put that french horn back together, the customer will pick it up soon." My boss didn't realize he never showed me how to reassemble the Rotors on a french horn. Your video saved my behind and made one satisfied customer today! Thanks for the explanation, it was much easier to follow than the instruction booklet I was looking at! I think we will use this to train future repair techs at our shop!
Great explanation! Your video about stuck rotors got me curious about the valves on the French horn. This video answered all the head scratchers I had. Thanks for all the great videos!
Wes you make a great point on oiling the lower bearings. Often neglected, those little guys had been replaced on more than one horn I've had. Thank you for the great video!
First of all, I never put horn down. It is constantly being played. My weekly routine is to Clean and oil on Saturday night, so it’s ready for Sunday morning. This includes pulling all slides, wipe them down and re-grease them, oil all bearings and value faces by going down the slide tubes and the reassemble. Bearings will get oil as needed during the week. This may be a little over the top, but I owned a 1960 Alexander and a 1906 Kruspe and have zero trouble with them. My new Alex gets the same treatment. Ounce of prevention as they say!
Mr. Lee, I know I'm late to the party on this, but you have really given me some helpful hints to care for the rotors on my Miraphone Tuba. I don't have a way of making a punch, but I think I can fabricate the wooden driver to reseat the rotorplates. I always learn something from your teaching.
Fun fact: Holton stop arm slots are symmetrical (most others are “D” shaped so the stop arms only go on one way). For models like the 179, this isn’t an issue for valves 1, 2, or 3, as the rotors are symmetrical. The 4th valve though… if you install the stop arm “backwards”, the air flow will be blocked completely. I was surprised by this when I put a 179 back together after cleaning it and getting 0 air through!
I've had bad luck with using different oil brands or types. They can interact causing sticking or sluggish valves. I really like the synthetic Hetman products. I could see those on your work table, but you didn't use them.
Funny how the mind works. I played for 7 years. Haven’t played in 30. I know for a fact I routinely broke mine down for cleaning but I don’t remember dining this at all. Though I’m sure I must have.
Again I’d definitely never suggest popping the rotors out like that with the lip of the bell on the table. If you have a pricier horn with a thinner bell it will dent the bell. Second, I would never dump all the rotors out at once. Some rotors are marked, but some are not marked very obvious so it’s always good to keep them separate. Also, I would never suggest a Chem clean unless it’s a last resort. A small ultrasonic cleaner and a small brush will do a fantastic job. Shiny doesn’t mean clean, and too many chem cleans will mean you have to replate the rotors. Plus some valves are hollow so even if you chem clean and neutralize it there could still be some acid remaining.
I’m sure you have already found it, but for others seeing this comment, search for French horn string, more specifically rotor valve string. Yamaha makes some that is both great and inexpensive.
In addition to the two points you described, the player should remove the slides for each valve, and with the slide openings up and down and centered carefully, drop six to eight drops of oil directly into the slide opening. This will lubricate the valve, and prevent sludge build up.
