Take an old drill and make it work like new with a new set of motor brushes. Also at the end: a short update and a happy new year message to all my viewers.
I had one pass down to me ages ago, which got a similiar problem. No one wants to repair it but it performs so well and I just dont want to throw it away. Thanks for the tip to fix it DIY!!!
Right, very close to the adaptations I come across in similar situations. Being that, intricate details arise when replacing my Dremel brushes, not withstanding miniscule nuance and cursing.( to convey my blunt!) I looked up this subject because I was originally inquiring about if I need oil my drill, and, yes, I do; upon later U-tube suggestions of "like" videos did my adventure lead me to asking the question of "do drills have brushes" and... YES! THEY DO!!! To make a seeming long description frail: Thank you for your video! I think you did a great job! Sometimes being honest, forthcoming, and progressive may help more than you think... Appreciate your time and efforts! Sincerely, Patrick Mulcahy
Thanks for the video - I've had that same drill for 30 years, and I've just ordered replacement brushes for it, as the motor keeps cutting out. I already replaced the chuck on it a few years ago.
Thanks for the video and blessings from America mate! I couldn't find out exactly where these carbon brushes are in my drill, I never repaired a drill before. My cheap drill is a bit different than yours but this video showed the general area and function of them, got them out no problem thanks to you.
While you had the drill apart, a good idea would have been to clean up the armature with fine emery cloth. The carbon buildup can degrade the performance and cause mini short circuits. Also, your brushes would last longer
Idealy remove the armature, and using a metalworking lathe, place in a 3 jaw chuck with a revolving center in the tailstock. Gently tighten the chuck to avoid damage (wrap some thin brass shim around the shaft end) and turn slowly using some fine, say 380-400 grade emery paper to give a shiney finish on the copper surface. With new carbon brushes it will run like new. Don't forget to re-grease the bearings.
They are a fairly standard size , so hold onto them for other motors. Mine also had a Broken electrical spade to the brush housing , so after removing the commutator and cleaning it , I replaced the brushes , then got some fluxed solder and my trust iron, and soldered the clip on as it had fatigued with vibration ( and soldered the other one whilst I was at it .) I don’t put video on You Tube, but whenever I disassemble things , I always film it just so I can see where everything came from in what order , what way round it was etc. And since I started doing that , I don’t have any ‘spare’ bits left over ! Ps I cleaned out and regreased the gears whilst I had it apart, it is going well, but sadly the front bearing has a bit of a wobble , so no precision drilling with this one, just use it for pilot holes and it’s hammer action. Nice video ( and hair)
a little 3 in 1 oil or equivalent in the ends of shaft so it spins freely? clean commutator with some sandpaper to make it shiny again? clean out between the commutators with razor blade to get old graphite out of the commutator and a little oil/grease on the drive gears so it lasts another 100 years with moderate use and decent care.
Got an old ryobi drill, worked wonderfully until last week, got all notchy and i knew it was the brushes, needed a tutorial on how to actually do a brush swap
My Bosch went down right in the middle of a retaining wall project. Did buy an up to date Bosch battery set of drills but couldn’t chuck this old girl as my late Father bought it for me 28 years ago. Sent for more brushes, good to go! Thanks Luke, your a legend!😎
Thanks Luke, it's a great relief to find someone on video doing what you need to do on almost exactly the same model you have. I wasn't sure how to access the brushes, slightly different look to the top of the housing but otherwise the same. You've given me the confidence to press on.
Nice one. I have to do this on my Dad's massive masonry drill/jackhammer thing. No idea what I am doing so it is pleasing to see someone else who has been successful! Cheers
That being presented, I will add also, never, use brush having tools like sanders on material that have silica, like gypsum board or sheetrock, because the silica, or calcite inside the dust will cause the brushes to corrode; rendering the tool useless until repaired.
Pity there is no obvious way to establish the amount of brushwear . If there was we could all know for sure exactly what was faulty. Bosch are not the most helpful & many of their products are difficult & costly to repair. This case is the exception but I believe a fault remains in the hammer mechanism . .
That is more likely something to do with the switch/trigger mechanism, which depending on the drill might not be fixable unless you can find a replacement mechanism. Give it a good clean first sometimes the contacts can get crud in them. Hope that helps!
Thanks! I bought my Bosch re550 in 1987 and it's been a faithful diy friend who recently lost his mojo. New brushes and now good to go for another 33 years... hmmmm...more than me probably...... Thanks for video. Couldn't have done it without your video.
excellent. I have a Bosch drill I bought 40 years ago, it has been a powerhouse most of my life. This is the issue I have, so thsanks. That's what I need to do.
Do you know that black thing under the swich with three terminals the two terminals were connected to the main power supply while the third one is connected to the stator, mine is bloated and I need a new one.
These drills are the doggies. Thanks for the tutorial luke. I also have a jittery one handed down from pops. Its time to order me some brushes. Thnx dude
You may or may not have noticed there is a wear line on the carbon. You can see the line in your video when you initially compare old and new. You are just slightly past the mark at an angle.
I like your video, well done. If you put on another video, can you show one of cleaning the armature poles. They usually use fine sand paper or emery cloth to clean them. Thanks for sharing.
You could retrofit any brush to fit but in general you should get the specific brush for your tool mate. Brushes have dimensions and an OEM part number. If your tool is an el cheapo one you can take a micrometer and measure the size of the brush(length x width x height) and then find one that fits soon as the configuration is the same(some are spring loaded or on others the spring is on the brush holder of the tool you have already and they have a female spade connector). As well take a bit of micro mesh or 600 grit dry sandpaper and clean the commutator up on very low revs so you have bright copper showing on the end of the armature(the rotor) that is in contact with the brushes. Be careful not to get an electric shock obviously. There are specific commutator stones for that as well. Blow all with high pressure air mildly. The above will make your tool essentially brand new.What tool is it?
Dont forget that your brush will probably be worn to shit so only two dimensions will be correct (width and height), the length will be shorter obviously. Hope that helps you bro.
It is very common in cheaper drills and is usually a sign of the brushes skipping. As long as it doesn't make any burning smell it should be fine but it might be worth inspecting your brushes and looking for any dirt or debris in the motor. Hope that helps!
