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★★★★★ SMC Snow Picket Anchor field test & review (deadman) - Amazon 

Beau Reviews Awesomeness: Authentic Tests & Demos
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SMC is the same company that makes these riggings: amzn.to/2te3zsP
Pros:
- Simple: Clean, solid one-piece design (MSR picket had plasticy accessory cap on end).
- Weight: Surprisingly light-weight... didn't even notice it in my summit pack.
- Extremely strong: We put a lot of weight on this thing. (see video)
- Engineering: Well thought out placement of holes... fit all my carabiners (locking and regular) perfectly.
- Good people: Very pleasant blokes at SMC. They actually sent me a sample of this snow picket in exchange for a review and test. That says a lot about a company in my humble opinion. (no I don't work for them)
- Gripped the snow: Initially we heard it "shift" when it took the first weight fall (see video), but it dug in and didn't budge after that. An awesome anchor.
- Sharp: Pointed end unlike the MSR picket (which is blunted). This allowed the "piercing" of the snow to be easier.
- Tough: Barely even scratched when I slammed it into the ground with my ice axe head. Note: Our video demonstrates the placement and testing of the "deadman" anchor.
- Price: Cheaper than the MSR version at the time this review was posted.
Cons:
- Weaponry: Not as effective as I hoped in fending off a bear attack.
Final verdict: Worked perfectly, even when placed as a deadman anchor in shallow (only 10-12" deep), slushy snow. (This is not a recommended depth of course, but it worked for us in our particular shallow-snow test)
An absolute must for the serious/smart mountaineer.
(tested in the Pacific Northwest, Mt Rainer National Park by Beau Chevassus)
_______________
From the SMC website:
The SMC I Picket has a peerless strength-to-weight ratio, as well as an unmatched practical design.
People kept asking us to make a perfect snow picket and so we did by field-testing it in every imaginable condition. The SMC I Picket has a peerless strength-to-weight ratio, as well as an unmatched practical design. The Modified I web depth provides maximum hold, but is also kept compact for ease of handling and packing. The sharp end is precision tapered for easy placement in ice and hard snow. We left the finish "natural" so that it holds more securely in vertical placement than pickets which are either powder-coated or anodized. We beveled the edges of the clip-in holes to protect ropes and webbing and spaced the hole pattern for maximum holding power in a variety of snow conditions and configurations including as a deadman. Available in either 24" or 36" lengths, weighing 13.6 oz. (385 g) and 21 oz. (595 g) respectively.
Recognized for excellence in performance and durability by the world renowned American Alpine Institute as one of their "Guides' Choice" products.
Using an I Picket:
Accurate assessment of snow conditions and their potential for change during the day/night is critical in determining correct picket placement. In hard packed snow or ice, place the picket as a stake, driving the pointed end into the snow. Angle the picket (approx. 15°) back from the direction of pull and clip a carabiner into the hole closest to the surface of the snow. In softer snow and warming conditions, bury the picket as a deadman. Place the I Picket horizontally and perpendicular to the direction of pull, clip into the center hole and dig a slot in the snow so that the runner/rope will be pulled in as direct a line as possible.

Original review from Beau Chevassus, Knok Studio (Media for non-profits), www.knok.tv
From Beau Chevassus: smile.amazon.com/gp/profile/A1...

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24 янв 2015

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Комментарии : 3   
@stan4now
@stan4now 5 лет назад
This is a good test and review. Even in the soft stuff you're going to get old snow below that will hold, even in a dead-fall, about 5,400 lbs on average. But this is only where "persistent weak layers" are somewhat stable. CAUTION! Shovel shear, compaction/compression, Rutschblock tests etc that indicate low level of probability are good only for the area testing. Quick snow pit/compaction testing should be conducted on ascent, actually before stepping onto any avy prone terrain. It takes less than 2 minutes. Some of us conduct as many as 20 qs. It's less than 40 minutes of our time that can ensure a lifetime bc travelling or mountaineering. Here's a brief clip on the basics from Outdoor Research, about 5 minutes. This applies to all bc travelers and mountaineers. Too many have been killed or seriously injured on the ascent/descent from weak persistent layers. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vcXogVHecFQ.html As a long time patroller and bc skier, the SMC Snow Picket Anchor has worked for ski-cutting, cornice-cutting, safe travel, holding down a tent. In the old days, we'd bury a pair of skis, which is a pain, but life-saving, tent-saving all the same. I'm sure the SMC SPA would also work for crevasse rescue or retrieving someone from hollow snow pack in Spring. I've yet to test it. Even then, nothing is ever any guarantee.
@lh98
@lh98 3 года назад
is this device used for rescue? must be because someone has to make the climb first to set it and bury it in order to even utilize it.
@BeauReviews
@BeauReviews 3 года назад
You could set the anchor from below and belay up from below. We use it for crevasse rescue on Rainier. A couple months ago, it worked like a dream. (it took a ton of weight, too)
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