⚠️This Mod Could Keep Your Gen3 KLR From Burning Oil | Thermo-Bob 3 Install 2022 KLR 650⚠️ 

Keeping my '08 KLR 650 at 65 mph or lower kept it from burning oil. Almost every Kawasaki manual says if you run at high speeds you should fill the oil to the top line because it is normal to use oil. My '08 went 85,000 miles before a teenage driver decided to total it while my neighbor was riding it.

For not being a mechanic, you made a thorough and careful presentation of the installation procedure. Many so called mechanics could learn from this. Thank You.

If you go on motorcycle forums you will be tempted to change out a lot of "deficiencies" in the motorcycle design. Doesn't mean that people who never go on forums ruin their bikes though. Like anything else, it is how you use it. 4x4s that are used off road a lot also have a lot of maintenance and repairs. Same thing with bikes that are ridden full throttle all the time.

You made that look easy- I’m impressed. Great job.

It's great to have a certified motorcycle mechanic to follow along with as I perform the install.

Just subbed. Great video on the Thermo-Bob. Versys X300 owner here and have a lot of X300 content on my channel. Kawasaki fan for decades. Thanks for sharing.

Great video! Always fun to mods and repairs be made. 😃👍

Thanks for the great video! The Thermo Bob is on the to do list for my new KLR as well. I appreciate you letting us know where you might have done things a little differently. This will make it much easier for the rest of us.

Thanks for the video, just did my thermobob, temp gauge, and tachometer.

Really great video. Just got the kit for my 22 klr. Thanks swanky cat, appreciate the videos.

Very cool mod. It looks like it would be a fun project for sure.

Great video!

Very nicely done. Thank you.

Awesome video, again. My Thermo Bob is ordered, after seeing how easy it is to instal. $200 is well worth the peace of mind.

Great video thanks for the information well done

Thanks for the video bud! Ordered the bob for my '22 last night. Surprised these bikes don't have a coolant bypass factory!

I think you could just leave the rubber sleeve (protection from rubbing) on and cut through it. The clamps will still fit.

I've got the 'bob on my gen2. I like it

If you leave the radiator cap on until after you remove the plug very little fluid will come out because of the vacuum you can then prop the bottle up and remove the cap to release the vacuum and save yourself the mess.

I just watched Eagle Mike explain the oil consumption and thermobob. I’ll probably do that to my 2011.

Felt works really well for the squeaking.

Especially with the color fairing, this KLR looks more like a budget KTM! =)

Where is ScratchBabble? Excellent install video Ben! Thank you!

muy buen trabajo amigo

Swanky, when you do change your coolant..try the Twin Air Engine Ice......My Gen 1 and Gen 2 really do run cooler.....also a a higher PSI radiator cap helps.....Florida guys know...................

Professional tip leave the radiator cap on until you get the drain plug out it’ll eliminate the big spray. In doing so you’ll be able to control the drain rate with the cap.

First mod I did to my G2-17 while it was still new was thermo bob. That bike has never burned any oil. My G2 is a great bike. So far I can see only 2 compelling reasons the get a G3. The fuel injection so I can go up to 8000 plus feet from sea level (which is only a 4 hour ride) without carb issues, and because the plastics are waaaay better looking and way better design. Other than that, nothing is tempting me. Is there a G3 temp gauge mod yet? There needs to be. That and the lack of a tach....silly.

Also, i knew a guy in highshool that everyone called Thermo-Bob as well

Good job. I thought about doing that to my green 2, but feel it is unnecessary. I think Kawasaki had a bad run of rings and castings which caused the cylinders to wear prematurely. Have a good one. ✌️

Really enjoy this videos. What do you suggest for a 2008 klr 650?

My 2015 don't burn oil. The Manuel says not to idle for my than 5 minutes either

Sorry, this is to hot the engine? Whent running at cool areas?

2015 KLR bone stock does not burn oil zero issues with 17,000+ miles daily rider to work!

I'm switching to a 16 tooth front sprocket to keep the revs down around my cruising speed of 65 mph. I think a lot of the oil burning comes from how the owner rides and maintains it.

Also thinking about a 16 toothed spocket. I mostly ride on pavemant, I know ist gear is a high Whats your thoughts?

Looks like an easy install, not sure about the need for it; however, all that counts is for you to think it was worth it. I’m of the opinion that if it and the doohickey mods were needed, Kawasaki would have done it. Your videos have been great as you do the work yourself!

I just bought a 23 KLR 650 s and have put 600 miles on it so far. In your honest opinion would you reccomend this? I want to do it . seems like a good thing. Anything to avoid oil use.

Uhhhh.....the cooling fan is what brings the temperature needle down when it comes on.......

picking up my KLR this week. I was thinking it might be best to do the Thermo Bob before I run it at all. I feel like it will help with the engine break-in. anyone have any thoughts on this theory?

Gear it up, go to a 16 front and 42 rear sprockets and drop the rpm by 500, big singles use oil at higher reves

Do you have the info for valve adjustment for it you dont have a video doing that?

You actually addressed the most annoying problem with mine. The squeak!!!!!! What did you put there to stop it? Between the side panels.

Man, 200 Buck's for that kit, man, that would buy a lot of oil 🪔!

I have riden over the last 30 years 4 klr650's , including now the latest klr650 witch a I really like and non of my bikes ever burnt oil or had any doohickey problems. So I would never change a thing on the engine .

How can I keep my 2016 impala from burning oil.....and making me look like a soccer mom when driving it? Tag me when you post the tutorial, thanks swanky cat!

I haven't been watching them all so maybe you covered this. Was your KLR burning oil or is this just a preventative thing?

What happens if you live in Florida and just permanently take out the thermostat? Does that negate the need for the the thermo bob?

The Thermo-Bob is not very well explained. Why is a 690F thermostat (660F is stock) not as good as the Thermo-Bob (690F)? The answer, I think, has something to do with the default valve-closed bleed thru the radiator. There is a default valve-closed bleed-amount of coolant that flows into the radiator thru a bypass orfice in a thermostat so that the radiator coolant is not ice cold when the thermostat begins to open. Supposedly, the KLR does not contain this bleed orfice, and so the radiator stays ice cold until the thermostat opens (from Thermo-Bob): Bikes with cold thermostats and no radiator bypass. Kawasaki’s thermostat bikes (such as the KLR and KLX) suffer from two problems: the factory thermostat is only 158°F AND they have no radiator bypass at all, which results in engine cooling relying on hot/cold/hot/cold ‘splashes’ of coolant, which promotes the cylinder going out of round and resulting in increased oil consumption. ... Ok, so it also seems that the radiator is so large, and coolant pump flow so little, that without a bleed orfice to the radiator, when the thermostat opens, the cylinder gets hot-cold alternating flows of coolant. But this doesn't make much sense either, because a) a thermostat opens slowly with increasing temps, and b) the cold radiator output is mixed with the half-open thermostat output. The only way to know what the truth is, is by measuring the temp of the coolant as it enters the cylinder while you warm up a bike. Seems somewhat bogus to me. I think if there is a disparity in temp around a cylinder, it is because the front faces the wind, and the rear stays hotter. The front fins should be less than the rear fins. It seems to me that the reason for the lower 660F Kawi thermo is to avoid the 'bleed' orfice by opening the thermo earlier. FWIW. I'd say don't mess with the original thermo based upon these facts. 'The bike is still not burning much oil at all - it’s around 12 ounces per 1,000 miles.' -- Thermo-Bob ??? Not much???

hi mate what do you think of the thermo-bob after having it on for a bit

Wait u change ur mind on crash bars from couple videos ago

Do you check the oil level with the klr off or running ?

Your back on a klr how do like the new one

You say it could stop it from using oil but you didn’t say it does I have seen a video the 2022 still has the same old piston design the old ones have so after you get a few miles on it and run 5,000 rpms all day something tells me it’s still going to use oil but thanks for the video .

Will this void the factory warranty?

I didn't like how the upper hose contacted the head at the rocker cover seam so I slid a piece of fire sleeve (it's immediately above the exhaust port) and secured it in place. The other thing to remember is you are reading the temp at the cylinder... And the ECU is reading at the bottom of the radiator. My fan doesn't come on till 220°f and shuts off at 210°f measured at the head

How many foot pound did you torque ??

Did you do the do hickey mod ?

Thermo bob looks a pain in ass to install

6:49 That's what she said.

Ben. It's been 7 months. Is she burning oil or nah

Do you need a Thermo-Bob-3 on a Gen-III?? I thought the TB-3's were for Gen-II with the over-sized 10gl. tanks.

Isn't that why they put a thermostat in to Regulate the temp

I highly doubt it. It would come from factory if it was needed.

I dont have a thermabob and dont burn oil. 11,000 miles on my klr

GEN 3 WON'T BURN A SINGLE DROP , IF YOUR DOES ,CALL SERVICE.

that has nothing to do with burning oil ! your car bike burns oil due to the piston oil holes being clogged with crusty gritty oil. it clogs the holes and forces the oil into the cylinder where it burns off. use good clean oil amd change frequently to avoid a engine from burning oil

you turned 1 hose into 2 and added multiple point of failure. and for what? worse cooling and more consistent heat? the cooling is not what warps engines, its too much heat that warps metal. your engine at anything under 212 being rapidly cooled will do no damage or warping. i think this mod is more trouble than its worth.

"Don't use this video as a tutorial, there is better outside" *uses a torque wrench for tightening screws* Me: still watching who doesn't even own a KLR

I had three klrs and none of them burned oil

Man, seems like everybody thinks there gonna go broke if they have to add some oil to there bike !

They should have addressed the oil consumption concern. Big mistake. I wouldn’t recommend a klr to a new rider because of that very thing.

The thermo Bob doesn’t make any sense to begin with. The claim is that it allows the engine to warm up faster. That doesn’t make sense though because you are essentially bypassing the thermostat, which causes it to take much longer to warm up, which will end up making it run richer for longer. Running rich will cause the cylinder walls to get washed down with gasoline and cause more wear, not less; all while simultaneously wrecking your fuel economy.

My gen 3 doesn't burn any oil.I run 75 and 80 30 miles each way to work every day.doesnt use a drop.what are you people talking about? ever thought about leaving the factory engineering alone and see how it works? you'd be surprised how long a motorcycle will last if you leave it alone and just follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual.

6:47 That's what she said.