You're welcome! There are two types of 3D printer developers: 1) Those who ask "What is possible" 2) Those who ask "What can we get away with" You are definitely in type 1, as are most people passionate about making good printers! There are a lot of companies in type 2.
The positron was built to fit into a standard 1kg filament box. In my opinion any compromise that has to be made to achieve that is acceptable, because if someone told me a printer could fit in such a small space before I saw it I wouldn’t believe them. The upside downess doesn’t even impact print quality. In fact bridges are supposedly even better. It’s only problems are a lack of a decent kit, the fact it’s Bowden, and no auto Z offset capability which is nearly standard on Vorons.
I use a 3D pen like a welder for 3D printed parts, love it for that. Much better than products sold as 'plastic welders', which are basically soldering irons.
My list of printers even though I'm a noob to all this. Longer LK4 Pro Longer LK5 Pro Creality ender 3 v2 neo Creality ender 3 s1 plus Anycubic Kobra Neo Anycubic Kobra Max bummed when I saw where this one placed. Looking forward to the new Ender and one day once I figure all this out the P1S. Looking at the Neptune 4 as well 😀
I bought the K1 with the $200 off coupon from Micro Center. At that price point and with the newest extruder, hot end and a couple of convenience mods (270 deg, door (must print!), side spool holder, and lid riser), it has been producing fast, quality prints and as you said, keeping level. Still looking for a price/value 300x300 bed size core xy to replace my trusty ol' highly modded CR-10.
My p1s I got a week ago has been a nightmare, I couldn’t get a single good print out of it, it just got clogged, made bubbly, holey messes and after cleaning the plastic of the nozzle, it wouldn’t regulate the heat to the nozzle anymore so now it just won’t print at all. Worst 1500$ I’ve ever spent. My friend says it might work if I add some new thermal paste but I don’t see any reason to believe it’s not going to keep making my life miserable.
The good thing about it is that it just works 95% of the time. The bad thing is, when it breaks it’s quite a bit trickier to fix, and support can be difficult to find. It’s a more complex machine than the old style bedslingers. Add to that, the bambu lab community tends to dogpile anyone who complains about quality or reliability.
Firstly that's not even the price of one. Secondly, there are 2 free spare hotend in the box, why wouldn't your first move be to swap them out in 2 minutes? Lastly, in case these weird descrepencies are real, because I do acknowledge every product has lemons, you must realize that every product has lemons. That being said, if your only issue is you got a clogged nozzle and the fix is already in the box and 2 screws and a connector away , is that really a valid reason to trash a printer when just about every printer ever can jam and this one has a design less likely to jam with the uni body hotend?
@@BeefIngot949 plus tax and shipping and any add-ons could easily get him into the 1500 price range. The one I just saw had only one spare hotend. Your criticims might be valid, if they weren't marketing this thing as the "it just works" printer for newbies. Their QC/QA isn't great, and their support is a serious weak point. Having said that, the quality and speed of print that I just saw out of one left me stunned. Genuinely shocked.
I think this is one of the most helpful videos and tire list to be able to make a decision on which printer to buy next. I will definitely be referring to this if I buy another printer.
You don't like Delta printers? UNSUB! You have lost all the little respect that you had. I certainly hope JJ likes Delta printers. I should have known, when you added syrup to your coffee. Heathen!
Ok I had to step up to defend the position because your rating there was just devistatingly unfair to such amazing enginuity. Its upside down for many reasons. 1. It's designed to be as small as possible, having it upside down means you don't need a cube to support the opposite side from the print head saving space. 2. It let's you still get a view of the first layer through the bed which is awesome. 3. It gets literally the best bridging you've ever seen because gravity is in your side when youre upside down. 4. The moving mass is closer to the bae meaning it's one of the most stable designs possible, short of drilling your printer directly into concrete. 5. Just look at the damn thing!!! Can you believe one college dude designed that? Freaking amazing!
11:34 - "They're probably gonna make an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max" YES! That's the printer I'm waiting for. A reliable and easy to maintain bed slinger, with steel rails, Klipper and a large print volume.
@@MrBaskins2010 - The curse of technology. Newer and better stuff is coming. If we wait for it, we won't enjoy the current newer and better stuff, and there's always something newer and better. It's inevitable that larger format Klipper bed slingers are coming. Manufacturers almost always release new technology on a 220 mm machine then follow up with a 300 mm machine. Hopefully, this time, they'll max out the larger and slightly more expensive machines with all of the features we want such as WiFi, UBS port instead of micro SD, steel-on-steel motion control instead of acetyl V rollers, etc. I expect this goodness in a couple of months or less.
Enders are CR-10 clones, not the other way around. CR-10 was the game changing printer from creality, far more than the Ender. The ender was just a cheaper smaller version of the CR-10. I have the original CR-10 and It prints just as high quality as the Bambu X1C we have where I work (just a lot slower). Now the CR-10 models you show are boring, not because of the Ender series, just because they did not really improve on the CR-10 in a large way, and they are bed slingers, and you can say any bed slinger is boring at this point.
But didn't the Ender 3 start out as a all in one printer? Cause I know the CR-10 didn't start that way, with the huge box sitting at the side. That's probably one of the reason why it gets it own tier and not considered a clone.
@@channelnotfound403 yes the cr-10 does have the separate control box and it is one thing I don’t like about mine. I still think the CR-10 was the printer that put Creality on the map and was more of a pioneer than Ender. The aluminum construction with V wheels was brought my the CR-10.
I just got mine and I've been told that chitubox slicer and the firmware out of the box are the reason I'm having misprints so that's not the best publicuty
its enclosure.. is a bag. For that price.. at least a basic enclosure where each wall is 2 layers of thin aluminum with a insulating barrier in between would be more in the rage for the cost... I mean.. they are charging enough for it.
Lol, but really though, theyrre for a different audience. That audience wants the air filter and filament station and filament rack and employee training. Too that audience, 500 bucks vs 5000 bucks is no difference.
im gonna be totally honest i came here to see where my first and only printer the anycubic kobra 2 now upgraded to anycubic kobra 2 pro ranked and i totally agree with your ranking i am now writing this comment and dipping thanks for putting my printer where it rightfully belongs
Just a thought here, your videos had a lot more sensible content just 6 months ago. Now there are tons of videos with not that much real content. Happy to see that channel has grown, but maybe quality is fluctuating a bit...?
I got a Kingroon KLP1 two weeks ago and it's one of the worst printers i have owned so far. Corexy and those speeds/specs sound great at the price, but their Klipper configs are horrible and their cura profile is completely useless, they basicly just cranked everything up to max and even after hours and hours i can't get a decent pressure advance result. The built quality and overall parts are great, at least the V2 version with the all metal hotend, but aside from that it is basicly useless unless you completely start over from scratch with klipper and cura.
That's not the end of the world, if it just needs some slicer and klipper tuning that is completely fixable via an over the air update, or by rolling community improvements back into the design.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Sadly i have my doubts about community improvements, there are almost no reviews about it, not even the V1 version which has been out for months and you almost can't find any redidt or forum posts about it. And Kingroon customer service is basicly non existent. I emailed them for multiple weeks now and tried to reach them via their site or social media, but no replies.
@@NathanBuildsRobots , i've got a klp1 too , two days of use and the part fan died , 3 days and it was the THR board , they send me a new one and there was communication error between the thr and the motherboard.They send me another THR and a new motherboard. Same problem. The heated bed support was twisted, the belts almost impossible to tighten without disassembling. And I'm not the only one. Now after many hours of test it seems to work well , i had to modify the steppers current because i think they set them too high and it causes the communications trouble. I'm also waiting for the printhead of the V2 they promise me. And now i use orca slcier , much better than cura. They released an emergency V2 like for the KP3S pro v2 which also had a lot of problems. So don't buy if you want a reliable printer.
Your statement that no-one likes delta printers is inaccurate although I think it was made in jest, I love delta printers and I know many other people do, if no one liked delta printers why hasn't FL Sun stopped making them and jumped on the i3 bandwagon?
Hi! Flashforge adventurer 4 owner here :) they're actually not that expensive That being stated I FUCKING HATE IT AND THE PROPRIETARY NOZZLE. Please move it to throw it off the balcony next time for me 🫶
The Ender3 S1 Pro is Excellent. I have a bunch of them. I run ABS around the clock. 24/7. Zero Problems. Need to manually level about once a month. Then it's just, print, print, print.
The P1P is an excellent printer that is currently $599. At that price point, the quality of the prints without modifications, the availability of modifications both for sale and that can be user created and the apps that give users control without requiring genius or professional levels, the P1P kicks everyone else's butt at that price point. The Prusa MK4 is way too expensive for a bed slinger. BTW I have a a MK4 on order so I can complain about spending too much for a bed slinger.
The P1P is amazing, but i see no reason to get the P1P over the P1S because its only 100 bucks more expensive, u got like almost the same enclosure as the X1 even with the carbon filter
I can't decide between the KE and the K1! Both at a reasonable price. The K1 is a corexy but it means it's more complex to mess around with and I also read it makes more noise..
Wait what? Did you just put a machine not tested in S tier?! Also, Neptune 4 bed leveling wheels are falling off... How in the world did you give that anycubic and elegoo a higher rating than the MK4? Looks like someone might be sponsored by Elegoo & Creality. You need to do some more investigation...
Deltas are machines for expert users, but it doesn’t mean they’re C tier at all. People are only able to criticize without even knowing what they are talking about. And it isn’t the first time on this channel that this happens. I Hope that people understand the real potential of deltas printers, not for nothing they are used in industrial applications (I’ve never seen a corexy kinematic used inside of an industry) That said, happy printing on your delta printers
My first printer was an flsun and it's been dead reliable. There's nothing "expert" about it. I haven't needed to touch it except for adding a nice magnetic bed. Sad he thinks they're bad because he doesn't understand how they work. A delta has less bearings than most other printers. Just one for each arm (3 total), whereas a prusa I think has two for each axis (6 total). To me, a standard printer shaking the shit out of the print and bed on the Y axis doesn't make much sense. There's no way that could ever be fast and you're gonna have way more problems with bed adhesion.
I regret purchasing a Prusa MK3S. I agree with your rating. It costs too much. The print quality is ok. The stock cooling isn't very good. Their customer service is fantastic though.
I could never put the k1 series up that high for many reasons. Mentioned bed levelling issues. Open source license being blatantly violated Ads in their mobile app Unlike Bambulab, they don't sell nearly the same amount of spare parts Once again unlike Bambulab their whole workflow design slicer to printer is a lot worse They use klipper which should be great but they neutered it by eliminating some settings that should be there and not allowing the user to fully access the Linuxbbox they have there while still not setting it up properly. Also, it's creality who just has such a bad rap. I will never not take the time to dump on Creality.
Using Kobra2 I can say that it should go to C-tier. The metal rails and metal gears is a fail - the printer CAN print fast but you don't want to be in the same room- the whole frame is resonating and it's a pain hearing it running. And you can find a lot of people complaining for the same issues. Yes, it's more durable than rubber V-wheels in the extrusion slots, but it just doesn't work...
I’m reviewing it now,m and editing the video, completely agree. This thing is not a standout in any way, just another boarding Ender 3 clone, albeit with some interesting features
19:30 - "I literally threw this one off of a balcony so I'm gonna have to put it in D tier. If I didn't do that, I'd definitely put it in A or B." This is a strange rating system. 😛 44:30 - The Ghost 6 is redeemed, from off-the-balcony D tier to A tier. 😀
+1 on the Ender 2 pro - I had the parts from TH3D so I just swapped out the main board for an EZ-board (yeah I had to make adapter cables), added EZ ABL and flex plate and upgraded the power supply to a Meanwell and a metal extruder. It sits on my desk for protos and also to take with me if I need to make a practical print on demand. I wanted it to be bullet-proof and reliable and it is. The prints are high quality every time.
Prusa mini with a not all metal hotend in current year still missing featured they promised years ago, taking up very similar space to a mk3 while not having much build volume, having notorious ender 3 like ptfe tube lineup issues, a price you could get a neptune 4 for.... I personally think it's absolutely nowhere near s tier. It want even s tier when it came out imo
Deltas are so much easier to program to work with non-planar printing and the slopes and curves are just beautiful and almost impossible to do on an rail printers.
This is not just a Teir list. but a quick round up review of all the 3D printers or a buyers guide if buying a 3d printer in 2023. So i would say its the most update all round very, very quick to the point review of ALL THE 3D printers out. So the video has double value for those new to 3d printers and are overwhelmed. Did i mention his a engineer too :). This prob is the best most update video round up of all 3D printers to date WATCH IT if new or want an update to 3D printers. OR else did i mention his an engineer lol
@@NathanBuildsRobots based on your statements in this video, I question your engineering credentials. Engineers can tell the difference between accessories and printers... AMS and Sonic Pad/clone on a printer list, janky printers in S-tier with Vorons. RatRig, Prusa Mk4 and an ender clone as "Average". Having personally used the majority of these printers, your list lacks education.
I agree 100% it's overwhelming doing research. I'm a first time buyer with a $200-$300 budget for Black Friday 2023 on Amazon, I'm in the market for a 3D printer suitable for my diverse hobbies, including woodworking and fish keeping (4' tank), RC Airplanes, quads. At this price range, I'm trying to balance equipment quality with bed size. Top of entry level price point & bottom of mid range price point is a bit of a pain. Majority at my flying field have enders. (one guy with a 3d printed zero. Very nice) A couple guys with higher end models. While many recommend Ender printers, I'm wary of their common issues and the need for extensive modding. I'm not worried about the skill to mod but more the time for it. I'm willing to invest in a higher-quality printer within my budget and explore firmware options like Klipper and Orca. Nathan's videos have been helpfull in my research. Majority of others I've seen are more like adcopy. Working on getting my list down to the top 3 or 4 now and Q'n up the wishlist for tomorrow.
Did you forget the Flashforge Adventurer 5M / 5M Pro ? It´s not a great printer since the Firmware is locked, however it´s the cheapest quality Core XY I could buy for 400€. The Bamu Lab P1P cost 650€ and the K1 430€. I also love the nozzle swap, even thou the hotend cost 25€ but I won´t need them regulary anyway, I still use the same Nozzle on my current 3D Printer from 2019.
While the grading is excellent, from an user experience point of view, the slicer compatibilty has a marked impact on the performance. While Cura is easier, it is not that advanced like the Prusa slicer, or its derivatives. IdeaMaker is excellent too, interms of better support for non-standard printers such as Delta's(Flsun) and Belt Printers(CR-30). Again, it comes down to user preference, but is an important factor to consider on par with hardware quality and performance, and the final result that is achievable from the given hardware.
My Ender 3 S1 Pro is borderline S tier. It's certainly open for debate, but rolling the dice with an open box from Microcenter for $178 I STILL feel like I stole this thing considering they're over $350 still. I also managed a sonic pad open box a week later for like $120.(I have your board with better 5015 coolers, so there could be a bit of a conflict of interest here,
@@NathanBuildsRobots Upgrades? Just your board, better cooling and a microswiss nozzle, and the sonic pad. It makes a pretty damn good combo. I had a resin printer before this thing. I'll consider linear rail upgrades if I start having issues with dimensional accuracy. Everything seems fine now. I'm building an enclosure now so I can print some ASA or nylon without poisoning myself. Also learning fusion 360 and building parts like magnetic couplers for flanges for venting outside. Pretty cool shit designing and printing your own functional parts. OH! I added a camera and mount so I can monitor with the sonic pad also a cable chain for the bed heater. I love being able to control preheating etc and also keeping an eye on the print on my second monitor. Ive got the printer in another room.
@@TheMugwump1 Smart to have it venting outside. That's the only way to do it. Many people think an enclosure and carbon filter are enough, they do practically nothing. I don't know how far along you are with your fusion 360 training, but If you need to make quick parts, you can use tinkercad. I know how to use fusion 360 but I find myself going to tinkercad still quite often for quick simple things. I made the ventilation system for my laser cutter with tinkercad.
Seeing the E3V3 in S Tier saved me a lot of time, lmao. It might be a good printer, and considering the price it could even be very good. But best of the best? LOL.
I like the neptune 4 because it is essentially a fully upgraded Ender 3. Better part cooling, higher flow nozzle, klipper, dual z axis, ABL, direct drive extruder, all metal hotend, etc etc etc. So that would be the cheapest option. Additional upgrades could be added if you feel it needs some. Cheapest option for an enclosed printer is probably flying bear ghost 6 on Klipper. I have a hunch that the Ghost 7 may come stock with klipper, which would be awesome.
Strong opinion: The answer is no printer. It's never worth your time to buy a crappy printer then upgrade it. You're way better off just buying a better one from the get go. If I had a gun to my head though, I'd say a Vezbot. Easy enough to mod, and clearly an enthusiast printer.
You rank the K1 above the P1P? What. Also the P1S is S tier over the P1P when they are nearly the same printer but had an enclosure but 90% of the people only print in pla or maybe petg which both print the same.
The Ender 2 Pro is selling for $125.30 right now. It has a 165 x 165 x 180mm build. It has 4 leveling knobs. you have it on the very good printer's level. I'm amazed. If it is almost worth buying for a novelty to put on the shelf, but I have doubts that it should be on the very good printer's level. I would love to see you justify that.
See my other comment - this one is not a novelty but the most portable printer I own and great for protos - I have taken it with me to print practical prints real time. And good quality prints. Very good in my book.
Im very confused. You said that you tested all of these in your intro but you have no idea if the belt printer is reliable, if the vcore is any good. I also dont understand why a tablet running klipper or the ams suddenly become a printer. It also makes 0 sense to me, why a printer becomes less good, if it has more parts in it.
thanks for the video. I have two enders 3. Im just sick of keeping them going. A few tens of kg of the material printed and I dont want to deal with them anymore. This video help me to choose a next one. Probably P1S or K1max or let see if something new will come before christmas.
I will sell the CR10 V3 because I'm tired with the extruder and also it's heavy for me. I will throw from the balcony... I changed the motor and the extruder and still no working well. The motor skips steps and it provocates constantly clogs but, when It works, it's a great machine. I have my two Ender 3 that I will never sell them and yes... I know that they're a boring 3D printers despite that there are already more fast machines but the maintenance cost is the lowest than the K1. The K1 I'm having bad experience with customer services... The machine is OK but, as you say, the extruder was causing the majority of the problem but also has overheat problems on the conector of the camera from the motherboard. When the motherboard gets hot, the camera dies... So I had to install a Yihome camera to know what's happening on the K1 meanwhile is printing. On the last firmware update from the K1, the printer got frozen and remained with the hotend and the bed hot meanwhile I was outside when, for my opinion, was a great fire risk because it there was an error, it should be turn off everything until I come back home. At this moment I'm building a Voron 0.2 and I'm having fun and learning a lot about everything, but I bought it before summer holidays and I builded the half of the printer. On the future I'm thinking to buy a Prusa MK4 to replace the CR10 V3 because the big one is overprice for me and quite heavy. I know that the Prusa has less volume print surface but I use the CR10 V3 a few times. Greetings from Spain.
I can fill you in on my experience with the Reborn 2 from Flying Bear. It tried to burn my place to the ground more than once with the stock firmware. The preheat setting using the built in screen would sometimes cause the printer's computer to lock up and no longer respond to anything (probably some infinite loop built into the firmware). I fixed it's homicidal tendencies by converting the printer to Klipper (that isn't very easy to do because the instructions aren't in english). The company was not very good to deal with when it came down to fixing the damage from the overheating. They forced me to prove that the parts were damaged before they would replace them (nevermind the video I posted on youtube with the glowing red smouldering hot end with deformed/melted cooling fan ducts ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7MxLkfBDbUM.html). They were an insulting nightmare to deal with considering what happened. There are issues with this printer that no reviewer I've seen has addressed. The prints have a belt or motor noise artifact that is very evident on the prints. It is fine for functional parts, but not for anything that could be considered art unless you really like sanding and bondo.
fwiw i own one and i'll be posting some neat mods for it. i think the frame still is a good base to start with. The rest of it though is kinda garbage as you've experienced. Perhaps reborn 2 english-speaking owners should make a server :)
Hello thanks for video, can you help if something change after one year later? I do not own printer in this moment, I'm crafter-man, mostly i would like to print for me and my kids, figures, toys, inserts for Boardgames (here i would like to have possibility print logos in color), boxes, wall organizers, utilities, enhancers etc. What Im thinking about: 1. Bambu lab A1 with AMS (499 EURO) ++++ price + multicolor - missing enclosure/ not build well for DIY enclosure 2. Bambu lab P1S (AMS later but price of AMS itself is huge in comparisons P1S combo) (600 Euro or 850 Euro with AMS +- price + enclosure, cooling, air filters + AMS with closed environment and protections from humidity - price of AMS if is not in combo purchase Price difference between P1P and P1S is to small (40 EURO), to miss inbuild cooling system and air filter already builded 3. Creality K1 MAX AI (634 EURO) ++ price + enclosure +++ volume --- no chance of multicolor (at the moment, later price of CMS? Price of upgrade for CMS? Maybe to much…) 4. Prusa MK4 kit + MMU3 kit (unfortunally price is to high for me at the moment) What I do not like on AMS (CMS as well) is amount of waste. To be honest approach of MMU3 from Prusa is much better, would like have possibility use it on bambu or creality printer... This is for me big deal breaker, and reason why I hesitate. It is not so big to say "ok go for K1 or P1S without AMS" and it is not so small, to say "Ok go for A1 or P1S with AMS" Any recommendation which one buy? And why, considering the points I mentioned? is it worth build enclosure for A1? is it worth build own enclosure for P1P? is it worth AMS or is only "hype"? Is PVA good for supports? is PVA safe for environment (no microplastic fibers getting into ground/water)? I will be glad for any suggestion. Thank you
I'm struggling with Prusa mini - after a while it gets unfixable underextrusion. PTFE tube in the heatbreak needs to be replaced from time to time, but the original one is way to expensive - and it's impossible to get a right size if you cut one yourself. But even if you do replacement with a proper one - still something just constantly blocks the heatbreak and you get underextrusion. Bowden is generally bad - direct extruders are clearly superior. And PrusaLink is just bad. The whole nonsense with putting WiFi credentials on a USB stick and then having to save the API key (and the login form is made in such a way that browser doesn't recognize it as such, and doesn't propose to store the API key as a password) - for having little to no control over printing anyway... bad, just bad.
Lol....Cetus makes very good printers and it is one of the older ones. Look at reviews from over 7 years ago. They are known for making those single arm printers that IIIP, Bambu, Prusa and other followed with. Wanhao was a big name for a while and they did the cross rod gantry and very solid frames. Good reviews on Creality, you did not shit on all their printers entirely. I rank the Bambu in the same order as you but lower, they are not open source and that plumets my opinion on products. Goodluck on growing your channel.
@@peen2804 NBR is cool . I could of possibly be to harsh on the comment , He does deliver good content . No one is perfect . Like all 3d printers they do have their quarks.
The Neptune 4 and SV07 are ten dollars in difference right now, so for $269 you can get the Sv07 with wifi functionality. There has also been some talk of a possible SV07 Plus with a larger print area coming out sometime this year.
@@lun7n I just want to take the time to join you in hating vrollers. They're just such an awful motion system. Bad wear and tear, unpredictable and worse than normal precision,the ability to get flat spots by sitting for awhile , gunning up other components with the rubber dust for no positive tradeoff and the list goes on and on. I hate that it became the standard for cheap printers.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Strong disagree for one reason: what do you do when you want a different nozzle size or more than 2 filament types ? Prusa has been having some issues lately but the XL at least in concept is baller af
So I have a Voron Trident 350 and 0.1 as well as a Prusa Mini and Ender 2 Pro. I could recommend all these printers honestly, but the Prusa Mini is the one I would have if I could only pick one, simply due to the size and simplicity, if I had to pick only one printer to have overall it would be a smaller Trident.
i love your list but the only problem i have with it is where you put the 2.4 the build is realativly easy to put together (coming from me a 15 year old) and if you put some more money towards upgrades such as steealthburner, nevermore, tap or klicky, and a better hotend like a phaetus like i did it kicks ass
I think you are in a deep deep bubble if you think a 2.4 is easy to put together. I can't even think of aore complex printer plan/Kit that isn't custom. Just the flying gantrt alone would make most people cry in frustration.
@@BeefIngot no the flying gantry and assembly is the easy part (people can do that in a day) but the hard part is tuning if you self-source i could see it being hard but with new kits like fabreeko and ldo its really really easy
~delta printers are amazingly fast - their only real flaw, is they tend to be quite small print volume. ~bowden tubes are fine in almost all the applications you said were bad - I think you are quite heavily biased or misinformed, direct drive, is not better - they both have their pros and cons. ~the upside down printer - works, and "they" aren't making them, 1 person designed and got it going. Honestly, it's amazing, and one of the few portable ones (designed to fit into a spool box) as for your disgust with it - why print right side up? Just because your used to it? ~odd how you find 'more parts" a bad thing - when actually most of the "bigger built for speed" need more parts, to keep them sturdy and able to accelerate well, or handle the weight of prints as they go for large format printers. "the majority cost of a 3D printer is in the Hot End" - this is not factual on most printers, very cheap printers may suffer from this - but honestly - especially when you pay $1,000 for a printer- only about 25% of that is in the hotend area, especially as the hotend, is just the heating element, cooling of the hotend, and nozzle really... a ceramic heating coil element, titanium heat break, and aluminum cooler with fan - is less than $75, and it will print just about anything (up to 300C)
@4:34 - something I can say also for the Ender 3 v2 as I've repaired a million of them - their injection molded fan cover shatters on every single one. They are incredibly low quality almost balcony-level bad. I mostly agree with your assessment on printers.
Gotva ender 3 V2 for 100$ did the Cr touch mod and. Changed the bed springs ,Bowden tube and extruder for 60$ I believe it was a good purchase because I'm a beginner
If you plan on only printing pla and petg you clearly don’t care about p1s pla is happy with non enclosed printer I am using my p1p with 0.2mm nozzle and I am getting insane details to my print without even tinkering !! I printed more in 1 month than with a year with my previous flsun because I don’t fail my print and don’t have to calibrate it twice a week, so much more productive !
