The description for the AC balance in the Video is backwards. The adjustment to 70% EP is not where it should be adjusted. It should be set for about 30% EP. 70% will yield more cleaning action. 30% will yield much less cleaning, but still a substantial amount. Please make note of that if you are a perspective user of an Everlast.
In this video, the torch was connected to the work polarity. The reason that the unit did not burn the Tungsten up is that the torch was in the positive, rather than the negative polarity. Ordinarily the tungsten would burn up at 70% EP. On Everlast and most all other TIG welders, the torch should be in the negative if there is no polarity switch on the unit. Using the unit with the wrong polarity can lead to premature overheating and inconsistent arc.
I'm new, ok? My trade is electrical, but man when you talk and explain things it just sinks right in. I really appreciate the flow of education that you provide in these videos. Thank you very much.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. As a novice who is self taught sort of by watching reading and trial and error it is a big help to watch how it’s supposed to be done. I am also trying to decide what multiprocess machine to buy at this time as well. I can get the machine I want so it’s a bit daunting between Miller, ESAB, Everlast, and HTP as to what to get. I would def go a bit larger than I will normally need that way if I ever need it I have it rather than need and not have enough juice so to speak. Thank you again
very interesting puse demo. i just wish you would have recapped showing the effects of the various settings to the bead and what circumstances would call for the use of each setting.
I have never ran into a position where I needed to use the pulse feature on aluminum. I have pulsed using the foot pedal, which is far more controllable than the headache inducing 8 or 10 pulses a second you were doing there. Now I have used the pulse on DC for stainless many times, but never set it at anywhere near as low as you had it pulsing. Makes me crazy. I noticed you too, Bob, laid a much more consistent bead when you turned that irritating, distracting pulse feature off. You kept a nice arc length and kept the hot end of the rod shielded on the gas plume much better without the pulser on as well. Certainly wouldn't see the need for pulse settings on 1/4" or even 1/8" aluminum. I would like to see some experimenting on very thin aluminum. Maybe try to tig some soda cans together? It isn't particularly hard, but I bet the pulse would help in that test.
Ryan, I agree. Pulse is good for automated or semi-automated. Doesn't have much of a use in full manual welding, even thin material (except stainless). RU-vid search "how to weld pop cans". I did a video using the pulser.
+6061. com nice job! The positioner is cheating though! What were your settings? I'm guessing the second shot was 60hz? I'm about to build a positioner and that would be a great test. If you're willing to share the settings, I'm willing learn. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. I have to say I am still confused about how the pulse is established. I gather you can have pulse in both ac and dc current. I think I can conceptualise how to establish the high and low current in dc but how is it done in ac?
Not on topic, but would like to get input on a small welding task I tried to do. Had a stainless steel wash cloth holder from the neighbor with one arm broken off. Factory had put 3 tacks to hold arm to thin round tube for the wash cloth. The arm was about .040" thick by 3/4" and the tube (sealed at both ends) I expect was much less. I did manage to get 2 tacks on it with 308, but one did burn through the tube. By the time the thicker metal could be welded the tube was gone. I expected that, as I am not a pro-welder. Would like to see how to weld thicker to very thin metals.
great content thanks for the Everlast TIG welding video I too have a 250 EX Everlast so far so good I'm learning more about it and with the help of your video thanks
I owned the Everlast 200DX for a while and loved it. I was looking at upgrading to the Everlast 250EX but ended up opting for the Everlast 255EXT. All great welders in my opinion.
Now I'm confused. I just bought this machine and my instructions show that for TIG welding, the torch should be in the negative socket and the grounding clamp should be in the positive socket. You have the torch in the positive socket?? Doe's it make a difference???
Bob, do you think you could show off some MCAW. It wasn't actually mentioned in my welding program until I brought it up one day. Perhaps you could do a t joint or lap joint on some 3/8s steel. Your vids are awesome Bob!
Why were the first and the last bead on that flat plate shiny and the others weren't? Did the pulse affect the shinyness of the beads? Sorry if this is a dumb question I've never tig welded aluminum and not much experience tig welding steel either
Thank you again Mr. Moffett for your excellent instruction. I am considering the purchase of an Everlast Powermig 315 LX with cooler. I like the honest reviews that you give and value your professional opinion. Do you for see giving this unit a review any time soon? God Bless!
Hello. Need some help please! i am a beginner welder and i need to know which is the difference between DC and pulse,i mean what should i choose,which is the best for a newbie? i'm sure there is experienced welders than me! sory if i disturb someone with my question.
I am starting welding school this fall and I am wanting to get a welder so that I can practice at home and once I develop some skills pick up work on the side. I have three welders I am considering because of their versatility and my budget and I know Bob Moffet has used at least two of them and I wanted some advice on what of the three might be a better starter welder. AHP Alpha TIG 200X, Everlast Power TIG 200DV and Lincoln Electric Powermig 210 MP. I like that they are all dual voltage. I like the AHP because I can do AC/DC on both stick and TIG, The Everlast seems like a better quality machine over the AHP I just dont know if it is worth the money and according to the specs on their website it can do AC/DC TIG but only DC stick and the Lincoln is different because it can do MIG I feel like TIG and STICK I will be more versatile for small jobs and for home practice and may need more practice with TIG than I would with MIG to get good. Any suggestions or help would be great.
For a starter machine, it's tough to beat the AHP. If you're looking for a combo welder, we use the ESAB Rebel and have had nothing but success with it, but the Lincoln is very comparable. However, if you go with the Lincoln, make sure you buy the TIG pak.
I've had very good experience with my Everlast welder. Their MTS welders are fantastic if they are within your budget I would seriously consider them as they would give you mig tig and stick with no compromises.
Mark Breidenbaugh we're going to be doing a 💯 K giveaway in a few days. Not saying that there will be a MTS 251si up for grabs... But then again, I'm not NOT saying that now either 😂😂
Weld.com well I watch every video that comes out from you guys so I will participate in that when you do and here is hoping luck is on my side. Thank you sharing so much great info with us.
I love the video, one question though, In the long run how well will this welder run say 10 or 15 years? I know theirs variables such as care and the owner . I am thinking more along the way of the internal workings . Will they run as well as the other red welder and the blue one.
Mireya Jesus there are plenty of R-Tech (UK version of the everlast, internally identical) tig machines still going strong here in the uk at 10 years old. same as any inverter, don't let them fill up with dust, treat them correctly and they will last. electronics don't just magically fail after so many years, they fail because of stress, thermal cycling or overvoltage. my Hitachi was built in 1994, still welds just fine.
